:-( My LFS tested my water and it contradicts the tests I did on my oen

dedragon

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api and seachem are not the most reliable test kits. idk anyone that actually uses imagitarium salt. its like petcos brand so just based on that i wouldnt buy it
 

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Here's smthg I wrote up a couple of months ago:

Any commercially over-the-counter tests are only going to get you within a certain RANGE of whats going on.

Four different types of tests:

1 - Drip Tests that use individually bottled reagents are prob the most accurate but still are not directly pinpoint accurate. inaccurate due to human error, age of the reagents, inconsistency of the reagent produced at the Factory. Tests include Salifert, Red Sea

2 - Color Changing Tests that use an electronic eye called a Colormeter to interpret the color for you. This is where Hanna checks in. Results can vary with dirty smudged vials that the colormeter eye misreads. The eye can't properly read the color bc the light is being distorted due to a dirty vial.. ive read even a slight fingerprint on the vial can drastically change the test result. This info came from Hanna themselves. The colormeter can also shift due to temp, dirtiest on the eye inside the unit, not calibrated properly at Factory due to eye misalignment. These units are mass produced in large production runs. No time for Mfgr to calibrate each one at the price point you are paying. If they were individually calibrated you'd get a QA sheet inside the packaging. You'd also spend 3x the price

3 - Color Changing Tests that YOU have to interpret with your own eyes. This is API. Very inaccurate bc the results are left up to human interpretations. Basically a test to get you a "general idea" where the results are.

4 - Dipstick Tests that use a test strip that changes color at the tip. The most inaccurate bc the reagents at the tip of the dipstick have been exposed to AIR for a long time, degrading the reagents. I personally would NOT base ANY decision on Husbandry based on a result of a dipstick. Garbage.

~~~~~~~

We can use a DARTBOARD as an analogy....

Drip-tests would get you a few inches from the bullseye representing a true test result

Colormeters would land your dart on the dartboard. How close to the bullseye? How clean is your vial? How old is your reagent media?

API would get you dart on the wall, on the dartboard, all over the place.

Dipsticks would hit the wall that the Dartboard was hanging on. Lol

True in-home hobbyist testing would be taking multiple samples using different test methods and come up with a tight bell-curve.

But honestly... who's got that amt of time and who's that anal?

Purpose of my own testing is to get a knowledge of whats going on.

If my Salifert test shows Calc at 390. I don't think its actually 390 but I do know my Calc is lower than I want and it needs replenished.

I do not walk around all day with the 390 number in my head. That would be OCD...

HTH
 
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mistergray

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Stick a pic of the tank up so we can have a gander at your live rock.
Gander City! :)

Population: 4
(3 hermit crabs and 1 emerald crab)
 

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mistergray

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Here's smthg I wrote up a couple of months ago:

Any commercially over-the-counter tests are only going to get you within a certain RANGE of whats going on.

Four different types of tests:

1 - Drip Tests that use individually bottled reagents are prob the most accurate but still are not directly pinpoint accurate. inaccurate due to human error, age of the reagents, inconsistency of the reagent produced at the Factory. Tests include Salifert, Red Sea

2 - Color Changing Tests that use an electronic eye called a Colormeter to interpret the color for you. This is where Hanna checks in. Results can vary with dirty smudged vials that the colormeter eye misreads. The eye can't properly read the color bc the light is being distorted due to a dirty vial.. ive read even a slight fingerprint on the vial can drastically change the test result. This info came from Hanna themselves. The colormeter can also shift due to temp, dirtiest on the eye inside the unit, not calibrated properly at Factory due to eye misalignment. These units are mass produced in large production runs. No time for Mfgr to calibrate each one at the price point you are paying. If they were individually calibrated you'd get a QA sheet inside the packaging. You'd also spend 3x the price

3 - Color Changing Tests that YOU have to interpret with your own eyes. This is API. Very inaccurate bc the results are left up to human interpretations. Basically a test to get you a "general idea" where the results are.

4 - Dipstick Tests that use a test strip that changes color at the tip. The most inaccurate bc the reagents at the tip of the dipstick have been exposed to AIR for a long time, degrading the reagents. I personally would NOT base ANY decision on Husbandry based on a result of a dipstick. Garbage.

~~~~~~~

We can use a DARTBOARD as an analogy....

Drip-tests would get you a few inches from the bullseye representing a true test result

Colormeters would land your dart on the dartboard. How close to the bullseye? How clean is your vial? How old is your reagent media?

API would get you dart on the wall, on the dartboard, all over the place.

Dipsticks would hit the wall that the Dartboard was hanging on. Lol

True in-home hobbyist testing would be taking multiple samples using different test methods and come up with a tight bell-curve.

But honestly... who's got that amt of time and who's that anal?

Purpose of my own testing is to get a knowledge of whats going on.

If my Salifert test shows Calc at 390. I don't think its actually 390 but I do know my Calc is lower than I want and it needs replenished.

I do not walk around all day with the 390 number in my head. That would be OCD...

HTH
Helpful and super funny! Especially the parts about the API test. Basically, I probably need to wait 2-3 weeks and go back to the LFS. If their numbers are all over the place at that time, I’ll blame them and go get a fish.
 

Aqua Man

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API is not the greatest, but we all have to start somewhere.

Like mentioned, practice getting the same results over and over. Test your alk, 3 times in a row. At the same time every day. Following the directions for test.

As a beginner, getting consistent results from any test is what is important.
 
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mistergray

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The fact that your crabs are alive proves your good for a fish
This is gonna be the stupidest response you’ve seen in your life, hold on to your seat. How do I know the crabs aren’t in there suffering and crying out for help? Lol!!!
 
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mistergray

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API is not the greatest, but we all have to start somewhere.

Like mentioned, practice getting the same results over and over. Test your alk, 3 times in a row. At the same time every day. Following the directions for test.

As a beginner, getting consistent results from any test is what is important.
What would you consider the best tests to be? I wish I had known that I was throwing $35 into the wind before I bought the seachem ammonia test and the api nitrite and nitrate test.
 

dedragon

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i would use those for the ammonia and nitrite as they wont matter after the cycle is fully complete. Salifert, Hanna checkers, and Red sea pro are all great
 

mehaffydr

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This is gonna be the stupidest response you’ve seen in your life, hold on to your seat. How do I know the crabs aren’t in there suffering and crying out for help? Lol!!!
Because they are still alive
 
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mistergray

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api and seachem are not the most reliable test kits. idk anyone that actually uses imagitarium salt. its like petcos brand so just based on that i wouldnt buy it
Is all Petco and Pet Smart considered crap? What would you recommend for saltwater? Or should I go with the my LFS?
 

dedragon

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yes all petco petsmart products are usually built inferior compared to same products by other brands, some stuff is ok, idk if i would trust them with any chemicals though. Trusted salts include red sea, tropic marin, instant ocean, etc. Its really gonna depend on what specific parameters you are trying to target as each salt is a little different
 
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mistergray

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i would use those for the ammonia and nitrite as they wont matter after the cycle is fully complete. Salifert, Hanna checkers, and Red sea pro are all great
At this point, I am truly a bit confused on what to check for and how often. If you look at the thread in the link I gave at the beginning of this post, there are a few people in the comments that say throw ALL the tests away and get your fish. Then there’s others that say test test test, test now and test later.

Is there a constant amongst saltwater enthusiasts as far as it comes to testing? A year from now, outside of salinity, what should always be tested and how often? Or do people just test salinity, do their water changes and keep it moving?
 
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mistergray

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yes all petco petsmart products are usually built inferior compared to same products by other brands, some stuff is ok, idk if i would trust them with any chemicals though. Trusted salts include red sea, tropic marin, instant ocean, etc. Its really gonna depend on what specific parameters you are trying to target as each salt is a little different
To be honest, I’m too new to the hobby to have a preference for any specific saltwater at the moment. I haven’t quite gotten to the coral phase yet, but I’m sure I’ll be ready next year. At the moment, I’m just ready to get fish in the tank (clownfish x2, royal gramma, flame hawkfish & yellow watchmen goby).
 

dedragon

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Lol loaded questions, everyone is different with testing, for FOWLR testing nitrate and salinity is probably what i would test. If there were algae problems in fowlr then test the phosphate but its not as much an issue.
if going into coral then nitrate, alkalinity, calcium, phosphate, and magnesium is the least i would check.
I have a pH test kit and never use it, the salt, rodi water and aragonite sand in my tank buffer the ph to around 8.3. Again its really preference but no one is ever really against extra testing though
 

dedragon

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then i would stick with either instant ocean (probably the cheapest and widely used salt around) or stick with red sea blue bucket because you dont need extra high alkalinity in the coral pro. i use red sea and it always mixes fast and easy, but again this is more a preference thing
 
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then i would stick with either instant ocean (probably the cheapest and widely used salt around) or stick with red sea blue bucket because you dont need extra high alkalinity in the coral pro. i use red sea and it always mixes fast and easy, but again this is more a preference thing
All this info from both posts is very helpful. Thank you! Is there a reason you prefer mixing your own over getting it from the LFS? Cheaper? Easier? More convenient? Etc....
 

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