Need Heater Recommendations (40B)

[kittenbritches]

My current heater is swinging temps a lot. I went fairly cheap while cycling (and I know you get what you pay for and it's a rookie move to go cheap only to have to upgrade sooner or later). I'll keep the cheapo as a backup, but I want something steady and accurate. If your recommendation doesn't come with a thermometer, I'd love to know recommendations there, as well. TIA.

 

[blaxsun]

Inkbird 306A plus 1-2 inanimate titanium rods (Hygger, Schego). BRS has a few Inkbird+heater kits (not sure what wattage you need).

 

[Spieg]

Inkbird 308. Can control heater and turn on a fan to help cool water on hot days.
Cobalt Neotherm heaters have some of the tightest temperature control on the market (+/- .5 degree). Not sure of your tank size but probably need about 200 watts of heating power for a 40 gallon tank (2 100 watt heaters would be safer than 1 200 watt heater).

 

[Woodyman]

I second the inkbird as a primary temp control.

For the heater itself I would recommend an EHEIM Jager

 

[kittenbritches]

Thanks for the recommendations, guys! I'm going with the Inkbird ITC-306A -- I don't really have the real estate in the tank for cooling since I've got an HOB setup -- and two 100W Cobalt Neo-Therms.

 

[robertpdx]

I run a slightly different solution using the Inkbird. I run a heater that has its own thermostat on 78F, but then I connect that to the Inkbird controller and set the alarm to 80F, the cutout to 82F and the low alarm set to 75F. The heater does the temperature control, and the Inkbird is the failsafe. I used a Cobalt Neotherm for a year, now I'm using a Jager Eheim. The Jager is fussier to set but I was able to dial it in after a few days. I've got another Neotherm waiting for the next annual replacement (or failure). The Neotherm is more consistent than the Jager in my experience but I think both work very well. The Jager is less than half the price though.

 

[kittenbritches]

I run a slightly different solution using the Inkbird. I run a heater that has its own thermostat on 78F, but then I connect that to the Inkbird controller and set the alarm to 80F, the cutout to 82F and the low alarm set to 75F. The heater does the temperature control, and the Inkbird is the failsafe.

This is exactly how I planned it out in my head!

 

[blaxsun]

This is exactly how I planned it out in my head!

That's pretty much how you'll have to run it - if the Inkbird temperature probes differ from your heater, the Inkbird will end up prematurely turning your heaters off. There are 5 settings you need to configure, though:

• High temperature alarm value (80°F is fine)
• Low temperature alarm value (75°F is fine)
• Continuous heating time (1-4 hours)
• T1 (temperature to turn on the Inkbird)
• T2 (temperature to turn off the Inkbird)

I would probably suggest setting T1 to -2°F lower than what you set your heaters to and set T2 to +2°F higher than what you set your heaters to, ie: heaters = 78°F » T1 = 76°F / T2 = 80°F. I have my continuous heating time set to 4 hours - although my heaters are typically on for less than 15-20 minutes per cycle.

 

[Theulli]

I second the inkbird as a primary temp control.

For the heater itself I would recommend an EHEIM Jager

This setup is exactly what I have just purchased, after becoming fed up with Finnex’ random number generator temperature control

 

[Mikedawg]

In sizing your heaters, I think ambient room temperature is more important than tank size. There are several sites that provide a formula which adjusts for your normal room temperature.

 

[Mikedawg]

This setup is exactly what I have just purchased, after becoming fed up with Finnex’ random number generator temperature control

Ha ha, random number generator. I have probably spent more time on "fixing" heater controls and then finally decided on the InkBird wireless along with two Eheims set at different temperatures.

 

[kittenbritches]

In sizing your heaters, I think ambient room temperature is more important than tank size. There are several sites that provide a formula which adjusts for your normal room temperature.

Given that the 50W heater is about the same cost as the 100W, and that it seems everywhere is out of stock on the 50W Neotherms, 2-100W heaters seem like it was the right choice, yeah? During the day I keep the room between 72-74°, and drop to 68-70° at night.

 

[Mikedawg]

Given that the 50W heater is about the same cost as the 100W, and that it seems everywhere is out of stock on the 50W Neotherms, 2-100W heaters seem like it was the right choice, yeah? During the day I keep the room between 72-74°, and drop to 68-70° at night.

Yep, especially when you have 2' of snow on the ground you'll probably feel better having two heaters for your tank, lol. I would offset one 2 degrees from the other so they don't both run at same time, btw.

 

[Mikedawg]

Might find this interesting. https://www.thesprucepets.com/multiple-heater-safety-in-aquarium-2925514

 

[Spieg]

Might find this interesting. https://www.thesprucepets.com/multiple-heater-safety-in-aquarium-2925514

Good info except that the Inkbird controller is the backup shutoff in the event a heater fails in the on position.

 

[Mikedawg]

Good info except that the Inkbird controller is the backup shutoff in the event a heater fails in the on position.

Yep, that's why you use another, better quality controller. I also like the alarm feature altho I hope I never hear it!

 

[kittenbritches]

That's pretty much how you'll have to run it - if the Inkbird temperature probes differ from your heater, the Inkbird will end up prematurely turning your heaters off. There are 5 settings you need to configure, though:

• High temperature alarm value (80°F is fine)
• Low temperature alarm value (75°F is fine)
• Continuous heating time (1-4 hours)
• T1 (temperature to turn on the Inkbird)
• T2 (temperature to turn off the Inkbird)

I would probably suggest setting T1 to -2°F lower than what you set your heaters to and set T2 to +2°F higher than what you set your heaters to, ie: heaters = 78°F » T1 = 76°F / T2 = 80°F. I have my continuous heating time set to 4 hours - although my heaters are typically on for less than 15-20 minutes per cycle.

My brain isn't firing on all cylinders this afternoon. I have this set up correctly, right?

Thanks for the advice and tips, guys!

 

[blaxsun]

Looks good, except I would set T2 to 81°F (from 80°F), the High Temperature Alarm to 82°F (from 80°F) and the Low Temperature Alarm to 75°F (from 74°F). This way the Cobalt heater shuts itself off when it hits 80°F (instead of the Inkbird) and you don't get a wailing alarm from the Inkbird if your temperature ever hits 80°F (it has to hit 82°F or drop to 75°F).

The Inkbird will always stay on if the temperature is above 76°F, and only turn off it the temperature hits 81°F. You'll get an audible alarm from the Inkbird if the Cobalt heater fails and the temperature drops below 75°F or exceeds 82°F. This gives you a ±1°F margin of error for the alarms on top of the ±1°F margin of error for the Inkbird temperature probes.

 

[kittenbritches]

Looks good, except I would set T2 to 81°F (from 80°F), the High Temperature Alarm to 82°F (from 80°F) and the Low Temperature Alarm to 75°F. This way the thermostat shuts itself off when it hits 80°F (instead of the Inkbird) and you don't get a wailing alarm from the Inkbird if your temperature every hits 80°F (it has to hit 82°F or drop to 75°F.

The Inkbird will always stay on if the temperature is above 76°F, and only turn off it the temperature hits 81°F. You'll get an audible alarm from the Inkbird if the heater fails and the temperature drops below 75°F or exceeds 82°F. This gives you a ±1°F margin of error for the alarms on top of the ±1°F margin of error for the Inkbird temperature probes.

Perfect, thank you! Tweaking now.

 

[kittenbritches]

Welp. One on 76° and the other on 78° failed.