Need Help - 20 Gallon Long

[CFish4812]

Hello,

I used to do saltwater aquariums 5-6 years ago but exited the hobby after not being very successful. I was a gear junky that bought the nicest equipment and aquariums only to keep buying more before I had seen success with an initial system.

Eventually the cost became too much and I decided to sell everything and take a step back.

Since I spent way too much the first time I wanted to try and find success with a cheap system first. I bought a cheap stand and 20 gallon long aquarium on sale at Petsmart. I added sand, rock, heater and HOB filter. Then I added bacteria and ammonia and let it sit for 3 months.

The only light I had left from the first time around was a Kessil A80 so Im using that, but I don’t think it’s enough light. I turned the light on at 4 months and added copepods and a very small clean up crew once I saw some algae.

Next I added two clownfish. I lost both within three weeks to brook if I had to guess. I’ll learn from this and do it the right way next time. I read I’ll need to go without fish for 6 weeks.

The copepods seem to be doing very well and are all over the place. I’ve run into issues though. I can’t seem to get the water cleared up. I’ve added filter floss and change it regularly. I’ve also improved flow but there is always a film on the top of the water and particles floating in the tank. I’m also not a fan of seeing all the equipment in the tank and also found out the ATO I want to use won’t fit a rimmed system.

Would it have been easier to get a small AIO instead? I used to have several all in one systems and never had the water clarity issues im having now plus I could hide my equipment. This sounds great since I’ve hit a roadblock by losing by fish, but I’m concerned this is me going back to my old ways and trying to start a new aquarium before anything good has happened in this one.

Can anyone help or give recommendations?

Thanks for reading.

 

[Michael Hughes]

I get surface film in tanks without an overflow, due to the lack of surface skimming. In tanks with aggressive aeration (i.e. my 20 long QT tank) I also don't have issues with surface film.

If you have particulates in the tank, you could try adding a flocculant (calcium carbonate powder) which will bind to particles and settle them out. I do this periodically to keep the water crystal clear; however, I'd be concerned that your HOB isn't pulling out particulates on it's own. Maybe you need to upsize the HOB?

What kind of substrate in your tank? Any photos of the setup?

Something else I'll suggest is running a tank fallow won't be effective in the long term unless you quarantine your fish (or buy pre-quarantined); otherwise you risk reintroducing any diseases you just killed off via fallow.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

A picture of your system will really help.

An ATO should fit a rim, you might need to cut the lip off but it will work. My rims are missing many sections that I had to cut off to accommodate hob equipment.

 

[CFish4812]

I get surface film in tanks without an overflow, due to the lack of surface skimming. In tanks with aggressive aeration (i.e. my 20 long QT tank) I also don't have issues with surface film.

If you have particulates in the tank, you could try adding a flocculant (calcium carbonate powder) which will bind to particles and settle them out. I do this periodically to keep the water crystal clear; however, I'd be concerned that your HOB isn't pulling out particulates on it's own. Maybe you need to upsize the HOB?

What kind of substrate in your tank? Any photos of the setup?

Something else I'll suggest is running a tank fallow won't be effective in the long term unless you quarantine your fish (or buy pre-quarantined); otherwise you risk reintroducing any diseases you just killed off via fallow.

I have Fiji pink sand as the substrate. I’m in the process of gathering equipment for a quarantine tank and hope to have it set up in a month or two.

It’s possible my filter may be the problem. I’ll take it out and give it a good clean with clean mechanical filtration and see if that helps.

Thanks!

 

[CFish4812]

A picture of your system will really help.

An ATO should fit a rim, you might need to cut the lip off but it will work. My rims are missing many sections that I had to cut off to accommodate hob equipment.

What tool do you recommend to remove part of the rim? Here is a picture of my setup.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I use wire cutters and make 2 cuts, then just bend the lip back and forth until it snaps off.

Your set up looks very nice. Personally I would add another powerhead, that way you have 2 pointed upwards and towards each other for good surface agitation, and the flows will meet and bounce and create random flow patterns. Good flow will keep particles floating in the water longer so your filtration can filter it out.

Your light is a 15 watt light, so you instinct is correct this is very underpowered for your tank. I would suggest anything in the 50-60 watt range for your tank. Since it's a long tank, you might try to find a bar instead of a puck to have better lighting on the sides of the tank.

 

[Michael Hughes]

I agree, that's a nice setup and I like your hardscape. Once you get corals grown in it will make it even nicer.

Adding a second powerhead is a great idea. If you get a controllable powerhead (I use a Jebao SOW in my 14 gallon frag tank) and set it to wave mode, then that middle zone of turbulence will move back and forth across the tank as the pump fluctuates.

 

[Uncle99]

I’d add a skimmer on the right and run it 24-7.
I used a cheap Coralife 160 HOB like below.
This will need to break in anyways, keeps your water oxygenated and will pull some dissolved organics.

ATO on the left.

This is my cheapest build.

Doesn’t need to be expensive

 

[CFish4812]

I use wire cutters and make 2 cuts, then just bend the lip back and forth until it snaps off.

Your set up looks very nice. Personally I would add another powerhead, that way you have 2 pointed upwards and towards each other for good surface agitation, and the flows will meet and bounce and create random flow patterns. Good flow will keep particles floating in the water longer so your filtration can filter it out.

Your light is a 15 watt light, so you instinct is correct this is very underpowered for your tank. I would suggest anything in the 50-60 watt range for your tank. Since it's a long tank, you might try to find a bar instead of a puck to have better lighting on the sides of the tank.

Thanks for the information and help I’ll give it a shot to see if I can find a spot for the ATO. Do you have any light recommendations for this tank? I don’t have much experience with anything besides the LED puck options.

 

[CFish4812]

I agree, that's a nice setup and I like your hardscape. Once you get corals grown in it will make it even nicer.

Adding a second powerhead is a great idea. If you get a controllable powerhead (I use a Jebao SOW in my 14 gallon frag tank) and set it to wave mode, then that middle zone of turbulence will move back and forth across the tank as the pump fluctuates.

I’ll find another power head thanks very much :)

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Thanks for the information and help I’ll give it a shot to see if I can find a spot for the ATO. Do you have any light recommendations for this tank? I don’t have much experience with anything besides the LED puck options.

I'm not too familiar with bars either. You can always do 2 pucks, for example 2 x 35 nicrew navareef. You can also do 2 x 50 watt pucks but just turn it down. Some good quality low budget lights are nicrew, jeabao, vivarspectra, smatfarm, popbloom, I think most of them can be found on amazon.

 

[CFish4812]

I'm not too familiar with bars either. You can always do 2 pucks, for example 2 x 35 nicrew navareef. You can also do 2 x 50 watt pucks but just turn it down. Some good quality low budget lights are nicrew, jeabao, vivarspectra, smatfarm, popbloom, I think most of them can be found on amazon.

Do you think the nicrew 100 would work? I could remove the Kessil and just go with the 100 watt light and turn the intensity down.

 

[Michael Hughes]

I can vouch for the Nicrew brand. My 14 gallon frag tank is running the NavaReef 65W and it's producing nice growth on my softies, LPS, and "entry-level" SPS (Stylophora and Pavona).

 

[Michael Hughes]

Do you think the nicrew 100 would work? I could remove the Kessil and just go with the 100 watt light and turn the intensity down.

I use two of these for my 6 foot long 125g, so one for a 30" long tank should be fine.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Do you think the nicrew 100 would work? I could remove the Kessil and just go with the 100 watt light and turn the intensity down.

Absolutely, its a great light.

 

[CFish4812]

Absolutely, its a great light.

Awesome thanks everyone I’ll go with that.