Need Help with a wiring project

[mmorrison55]

I would like to convert my wire from my avast marine kalk stirrer to a quick disconnect so that I can easily move the stirrer body when I need to do maintenance.

Has anyone done this and what would I need to do it safely? It’s just a “lamp” cord that is connected to the motor unit. I’d like to add a quick disconnect about 6 inches from the motor housing so I could turn off power to the outlet and then easily move the entire stirrer assembly for maintenance.

I have the power cord routed through wire duct,so it would not be prudent to remove the entire wire each time I needed to move the unit.

 

[mmorrison55]

Would this work? Im guessing it would.

Amazon product

 

[Fish Fan]

Would this work? Im guessing it would.

Amazon product

I'm not an expert, but no, I don't think that connector will work, I believe that's for low-voltage systems like outdoor lighting, though I can't for the life of me find that info in the product page you linked above.

You need a connector that can be used with 120 volt AC power and handle whatever amperage the stirrer pulls, though I can't imagine it pulls a lot, so I don't think that will be much of an issue. It's possible the one linked can do this, but again if it's rated for AC, it didn't say so in the link.

I also know connector like what I'm thinking exist, I can't can't seem to find an example to link at the moment. Maybe I'm not searching the right terms Im' sure someone will know for sure, and I'm following to see what the solution is.

Good luck!

 

[KStatefan]

What you linked looked like a splice not a quick disconnect.


I would probably use something like this but there are lots of options of connectors.

 

[mmorrison55]

What you linked looked like a splice not a quick disconnect.


I would probably use something like this but there are lots of options of connectors.

I saw that, but it seems like that is a pig tail type where I would have to splice it into the cord I already have. Im trying to avoid the “janky” looking splice job with electrical tape. If that item you linked was for the connector itself that I could screw or solder the avast wire into, it would be more or less what i had in mind.

There’s got to be some easy connector out there that I can simply cut my wire, strip the ends and then clamp it together and a fix the two ends together with a connector that isn’t going to catch fire or short out my eb832.

 

[mmorrison55]

Like this seems very close to what I had in mind, and it seems like its power ratings would be ok. Only if I could find something like this in two pieces that I could easily join together with a quick male/female connection.

Amazon product

 

[KStatefan]

Search ballast disconnect WAGO might have one for that application that would work for you.

 

[mmorrison55]

Here’s where I need someone with electrical knowledge.

To me these specs seem like it would cover this project

• Double-Wire Plug-in Connector with Locking Buckle

Product Specifications:

• Type: 2 Pin, 2 Way
• Compatible Wire Gauge: 22-18 AWG
• Rated Voltage: 12V/24V DC, up to 300V AC
• Rated Current: Max 10A
• Working Temperature: -30°C to +85°C
• Wire Type: Solid, stranded, and flexible

Amazon product


And all of my searches report that lamp cord and a standard 120 v wall outlet is considered “low” voltage. And im pretty sure this avast cord is very thin 18-22 awg if not maybe even 24 awg. It’s a thin cord.

I guess I can ask avast what size they use.

 

[mmorrison55]

Never mind… that is misleading and not accurate. Another search, I found the avast is rated at AC 120v 3w. So while it’s drawing low watts, it’s still 120v ac, so not considered low voltage. ( I guess?)

 

[KStatefan]

Never mind… that is misleading and not accurate. Another search, I found the avast is rated at AC 120v 3w. So while it’s drawing low watts, it’s still 120v ac, so not considered low voltage. ( I guess?)

Your product specs show up to 300 volts AC

"Rated Voltage: 12V/24V DC, up to 300V AC"

 

[mmorrison55]

Your product specs show up to 300 volts AC

"Rated Voltage: 12V/24V DC, up to 300V AC"

That’s why it’s confusing. It seems to be within specs for the kalk stirrer, but says “low voltage” on the Amazon page

 

[Fish Fan]

Here’s where I need someone with electrical knowledge.

To me these specs seem like it would cover this project

• Double-Wire Plug-in Connector with Locking Buckle

Product Specifications:

• Type: 2 Pin, 2 Way
• Compatible Wire Gauge: 22-18 AWG
• Rated Voltage: 12V/24V DC, up to 300V AC
• Rated Current: Max 10A
• Working Temperature: -30°C to +85°C
• Wire Type: Solid, stranded, and flexible

Amazon product


And all of my searches report that lamp cord and a standard 120 v wall outlet is considered “low” voltage. And im pretty sure this avast cord is very thin 18-22 awg if not maybe even 24 awg. It’s a thin cord.

I guess I can ask avast what size they use.

This product is rated for 12V or 24V DC (that's the low voltage) and up to 300V AC (high voltage) and 10 amps, which more than covers your 3 watt draw (which is well under 1 amp). So the specs work, but to me this is not a quick disconnect like I believe you're looking for. I don't believe these connectors were meant to be easily separated and reconnected.

I think I know what you want, I just can't seem to find it, but I'll try again

 

[theatrus]

This product is rated for 12V or 24V DC (that's the low voltage) and up to 300V AC (high voltage) and 10 amps, which more than covers your 3 watt draw (which is well under 1 amp). So the specs work, but to me this is not a quick disconnect like I believe you're looking for. I don't believe these connectors were meant to be easily separated and reconnected.

I think I know what you want, I just can't seem to find it, but I'll try again

Yeah these connectors are a bear to disconnect. The locking tab and gasket seal well but they're not a quick swap.

Twist locks like these are much easier to work with, but you'll need to pay special attention to the pigtail terminations (heat shrink butt splice + a sealing heat shrink tubing).

Amazon product

Because of the overmold design I haven't seen the cheap ones with crimp connectors.

I can also suggest a variety of Molex/Tyco options but cable construction is a bear and the real crimp tools to do them properly are pricey.

 

[mmorrison55]

Yeah these connectors are a bear to disconnect. The locking tab and gasket seal well but they're not a quick swap.

Twist locks like these are much easier to work with, but you'll need to pay special attention to the pigtail terminations (heat shrink butt splice + a sealing heat shrink tubing).

Amazon product

Because of the overmold design I haven't seen the cheap ones with crimp connectors.

I can also suggest a variety of Molex/Tyco options but cable construction is a bear and the real crimp tools to do them properly are pricey.

That’s the style i was originally looking at, but I would prefer to find one that I could hook the wires up to the connector itself kind of like was in my earlier example in post #2 vs having to tie into the pig tail and then have heat shrink. Not the clean look i was hoping for.

 

[Fish Fan]

Yeah these connectors are a bear to disconnect. The locking tab and gasket seal well but they're not a quick swap.

Twist locks like these are much easier to work with, but you'll need to pay special attention to the pigtail terminations (heat shrink butt splice + a sealing heat shrink tubing).

Amazon product

Because of the overmold design I haven't seen the cheap ones with crimp connectors.

I can also suggest a variety of Molex/Tyco options but cable construction is a bear and the real crimp tools to do them properly are pricey.

That's much closer to what I think the OP wants!

Might I suggest this version for the OP that's a 2 pin connector to match the power cord on the Kalk stirrer.

 

[mmorrison55]

That's much closer to what I think the OP wants!

Might I suggest this version for the OP that's a 2 pin connector to match the power cord on the Kalk stirrer.

I can definitely make that work, just have to do some clean soldering or crimping and try and do a clean Job on the heat shrink.

 

[mmorrison55]

Thank you all for the input. It’s greatly appreciated!

 

[FUNGI]

Try Anderson Connectors

 

[Fish Fan]

I can definitely make that work, just have to do some clean soldering or crimping and try and do a clean Job on the heat shrink.

The heat shrinking is super easy, best with a heat gun, but you can do it carefully with a BBQ lighter. If you can solder, you can do heat shrink

 

[BeanAnimal]

Would this work? Im guessing it would.

Amazon product

Yes, those will work just fine. The male side would be on the device and the female on the power cord.