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They are fine, and made for applications like this. They are one of many options,
Need Help with a wiring project
- Thread starter mmorrison55
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Thank you. I couldn't find much for specs on the product page, and to me they looked like the low-voltage outdoor lighting connectors.
Thank, Bean!
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I would not use these for mains quick connects for various reasons. Regardless of voltage rating, they are more suited for low voltage applications with infrequent unplugging.
jonelder68
Valuable Member
Why not just wire up a gang junction box with outlet and an extension cord/whip to power? It’s what I did for all my equipment from my apex power bar to convenient location. Can’t unplug stuff easy from inside control board so I just made outlet extension cords to be able to service equipment easily.
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mmorrison55
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After revisiting this product, it’s basically just connecting two spliced ends together. Doesn’t seem to be a quick disconnect option.
This is the style that I am indicating is fine. Some brands have screw lugs instead of solder. I use Weipu brand often.
I was looking at the weipu options and don’t see a small enough form factor one. They seem to be pretty heavy duty
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mmorrison55
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It’s a space/layout constraint.Why not just wire up a gang junction box with outlet and an extension cord/whip to power? It’s what I did for all my equipment from my apex power bar to convenient location. Can’t unplug stuff easy from inside control board so I just made outlet extension cords to be able to service equipment easily.
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Im trying to make it so I can easily pull out my kalk stirrer when I need to do maintenance on the stirrer or my sump without having to remove the power cord from the wire duct.
Ef4life
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I use automotive metripack connectors when I do this. I buy them at waytekwire.com they are solid connectors that are easy to unplug and sealed from the elements. Slight investment in parts and tools to crimp but worth it imo
jonelder68
Valuable Member
If you want to mess around with 120v to a quick connect that’s on you. Personally I prefer doing it right by just adding outlet box near items. But if you’re willing to play with it I’d highly suggest using “true” deutsch connectors. I would use a bulkhead style.
Power into bulkhead mounted side. You would need special crimpers. Would suggest boot sealing each connector and a heavy duty loom to protect the wiring. I build hot rod/race car wiring harness frequently and I still probably wouldn’t do this even though connectors are rated for the voltage etc.
You truly have no space to mount a single gang electrical box next to the kalk stirrer?
Power into bulkhead mounted side. You would need special crimpers. Would suggest boot sealing each connector and a heavy duty loom to protect the wiring. I build hot rod/race car wiring harness frequently and I still probably wouldn’t do this even though connectors are rated for the voltage etc.
You truly have no space to mount a single gang electrical box next to the kalk stirrer?
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mmorrison55
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Well…
I don’t know exactly how I screwed up, but I seemed to have killed the motor.
After I spliced the sections of the quick disconnect:
Amazon product ASIN B0DP7CQTSH
I confirmed the motor was turning when I plugged it it. So I unplugged it, finished up the heat shrink and then went to route the wiring in my sump stand. Then somehow when I turned the power on… nothing.
1st thought was one of the splices came lose, so I cut the splice out and connected the power cord with no disconnect at all, and still nothing. Next step was I removed the motor housing lid, pulled the motor and the removed the cut section and basically re wired directly from cord to the motor, with no spliced section at all and still nothing.
I guess somehow I damaged the motor, but I heard no arc or saw any sparks to indicate I had an issue, so idk.
Guess I will forgo the quick disconnect and just run some kind of extension cord to near the stirrer and use that as my disconnect point for maintenance.
Costly mistake/lesson as I will have to buy a new motor and possibly a new avast motor housing u less I can live with cosmetic damage from where I had to break off the housing to get at the motor.
I don’t know exactly how I screwed up, but I seemed to have killed the motor.
After I spliced the sections of the quick disconnect:
Amazon product ASIN B0DP7CQTSH
I confirmed the motor was turning when I plugged it it. So I unplugged it, finished up the heat shrink and then went to route the wiring in my sump stand. Then somehow when I turned the power on… nothing.
1st thought was one of the splices came lose, so I cut the splice out and connected the power cord with no disconnect at all, and still nothing. Next step was I removed the motor housing lid, pulled the motor and the removed the cut section and basically re wired directly from cord to the motor, with no spliced section at all and still nothing.
I guess somehow I damaged the motor, but I heard no arc or saw any sparks to indicate I had an issue, so idk.
Guess I will forgo the quick disconnect and just run some kind of extension cord to near the stirrer and use that as my disconnect point for maintenance.
Costly mistake/lesson as I will have to buy a new motor and possibly a new avast motor housing u less I can live with cosmetic damage from where I had to break off the housing to get at the motor.
If you are not sure on the electrical work just run an extension cord through the duct and plug the Avast into that. You can then either coil up the cord and zip tie it so it is nice and neat or cut it off and put a new male plug on the end.
jonelder68
Valuable Member
The only safe way to do a disconnect for 120v safely! Is by using an extension cord or standard wall receptacle.
The motor is serviceable as it’s a wearable item. You can order a replacement cord and motor from avast. Both aren’t very expensive as they sell the kalk stirrer in pieces and a diy build it yourself kit. Just contact them with what you need. They have videos on how to assemble it on the website as well.
jonelder68
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The connections you used most likely failed as they aren’t rated for 120v use. Those are intended for 12-24v connections. As using them for 120v would be dangerous and highly against any kind of electrical code.
I’d remove the splices and try connecting the cord just to the motor. Inside the housing the motor is just wire nutted to the extension cord. I’d bet the motor is fine and your just loosing contact/power through the splices.
I’d remove the splices and try connecting the cord just to the motor. Inside the housing the motor is just wire nutted to the extension cord. I’d bet the motor is fine and your just loosing contact/power through the splices.
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That is simply not the case. Any number of quick connects are suitable and used in countless applications globally.
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