New and Nervious

[JudgeN17]

My son has a 55 gallon freshwater, but for Christmas he wanted a Saltwater. So, I got him an Innovative Marine 20 Gallon AIO. I've been doing some light stalking on here, but I still have a lot of NOOB questions.

We're probably going to do a FOWLR to start, but maybe eventually add LPS or anemone. But basically want basics.

Have the IM 20 gallon, mesh lid, a Hipargero A30 light (cheaper light, but heard it'll get the initial job done), and maybe Aquatop heater. The IM 20 also comes with the (2) Socks, return pump, and flow nozzles.

We plan on having 2 clowns, maybe 1 other fish, and a CUC.

Here are my questions:

1. Keep the socks or do a media tray?
2. If I upgrade the return pump, can I keep the flow nozzles or do I still need a powerhead?
3. Do I need a protein skimmer?
4. ATO?

What else am I missing that I need?

 

[Euphyllia97]

1) I would go for a media tray, socks are often a source of nutrients unless maintained very well. (On this size I would rely on waterchanges for nutrient export) Media might act secondary as a safe place for copepods to breed that will help you clean the tank.

2) depends on the position and flow. To start you dont need a powerhead. If you will keep a lot of rocks, you might have to add a powerhead and if you want to keep lps later on, this finetuning of flow might come in handy.

3) If you stick to weekly small water changes it is not a requirement on this size of tank. Protein skimming also aerates the water. So if you don’t add a powerhead and you don’t add a protein skimmer, keep in mind that you position the outflow of the return pump towards the surface of the water. (Especially in the beginning bacteria blooms can occur and will consume a lot of oxygen, this is seen as unclear milky water). (Consider having an airstone ready if this Would occur)

4) I would go for an ATO, on this size of tank any evaporation results in a noticeable increase in salinity and other parameters. Stability is important, especially if you want to go for stony corals (lps, sps) and an anemone.

 

[Dread Pirate Dave]

My son has a 55 gallon freshwater, but for Christmas he wanted a Saltwater. So, I got him an Innovative Marine 20 Gallon AIO. I've been doing some light stalking on here, but I still have a lot of NOOB questions.

We're probably going to do a FOWLR to start, but maybe eventually add LPS or anemone. But basically want basics.

Have the IM 20 gallon, mesh lid, a Hipargero A30 light (cheaper light, but heard it'll get the initial job done), and maybe Aquatop heater. The IM 20 also comes with the (2) Socks, return pump, and flow nozzles.

We plan on having 2 clowns, maybe 1 other fish, and a CUC.

Here are my questions:

1. Keep the socks or do a media tray?
2. If I upgrade the return pump, can I keep the flow nozzles or do I still need a powerhead?
3. Do I need a protein skimmer?
4. ATO?

What else am I missing that I need?

Using actual live rock for the LR part will shorten the tank cycling time and start you off on much better footing.

 

[Reef Log]

Hey there! Just wanted to jump in and say welcome, and no worries at all about asking questions. Honestly, that’s exactly what this community is here for. There’s no such thing as a dumb question everyone starts somewhere, and we all learn by asking and doing. Feel free to dive in and ask whatever you need; there are plenty of folks here who are happy to help. We’ve got your back!


By the way, the folks above gave some solid advice, and you’re definitely on the right track with that media tray idea. So keep those questions coming!

 

[Kooma]

Skip the socks and leave the sump empty for now. Media tray will help more.

Buy a Sicce 0.5 pump, it’s a lifetime quality pump

ATO, I use tunze osmolators. Never had one fail on me but they are not cheap.

Get quality live rock. Dirty, fill of critters and sponges live rock. Don’t buy rock that is very clean and looks like it was dry yesterday and just got wet.

 

[JudgeN17]

1) I would go for a media tray, socks are often a source of nutrients unless maintained very well. (On this size I would rely on waterchanges for nutrient export) Media might act secondary as a safe place for copepods to breed that will help you clean the tank.

2) depends on the position and flow. To start you dont need a powerhead. If you will keep a lot of rocks, you might have to add a powerhead and if you want to keep lps later on, this finetuning of flow might come in handy.

3) If you stick to weekly small water changes it is not a requirement on this size of tank. Protein skimming also aerates the water. So if you don’t add a powerhead and you don’t add a protein skimmer, keep in mind that you position the outflow of the return pump towards the surface of the water. (Especially in the beginning bacteria blooms can occur and will consume a lot of oxygen, this is seen as unclear milky water). (Consider having an airstone ready if this Would occur)

4) I would go for an ATO, on this size of tank any evaporation results in a noticeable increase in salinity and other parameters. Stability is important, especially if you want to go for stony corals (lps, sps) and an anemone.

For media tray, could I use a filter sponge (cut to size) or should I use filter floss?

Yes we plan on using Live Rock and making a stack maybe half way or 3/4 way up. Plan on also using white live sand (I'm thinking medium grain to make it a little easier to clean?).

I think I'm wait on the skimmer because some people use them and some say don't. And I'll look for an ATO.

Thanks!

 

[JudgeN17]

Skip the socks and leave the sump empty for now. Media tray will help more.

Buy a Sicce 0.5 pump, it’s a lifetime quality pump

ATO, I use tunze osmolators. Never had one fail on me but they are not cheap.

Get quality live rock. Dirty, fill of critters and sponges live rock. Don’t buy rock that is very clean and looks like it was dry yesterday and just got wet.

Thanks! I was looking at a SICCE 1.5 357 GPH. Plan on having it power both return nozzles with Y-tubing. Everybody recommends Tunze so I'll see if it can fit my budget for now.

And yes, was planning on getting wet rock from my LFS.

 

[Slcwinder]

My son has a 55 gallon freshwater, but for Christmas he wanted a Saltwater. So, I got him an Innovative Marine 20 Gallon AIO. I've been doing some light stalking on here, but I still have a lot of NOOB questions.

We're probably going to do a FOWLR to start, but maybe eventually add LPS or anemone. But basically want basics.

Have the IM 20 gallon, mesh lid, a Hipargero A30 light (cheaper light, but heard it'll get the initial job done), and maybe Aquatop heater. The IM 20 also comes with the (2) Socks, return pump, and flow nozzles.

We plan on having 2 clowns, maybe 1 other fish, and a CUC.

Here are my questions:

1. Keep the socks or do a media tray?
2. If I upgrade the return pump, can I keep the flow nozzles or do I still need a powerhead?
3. Do I need a protein skimmer?
4. ATO?

What else am I missing that I need?

If you are doing Fowler then the light and return pump are completely fine for now. The media tray is nice, socks kind of suck imo. Get an ato asap and after that look into an rodi unit. Both those will make your life easier. I’ve yet to find a good nano protein skimmer. You also want some rock, sand and starter bacteria. For the cycle I like dr Tim’s bacteria and ammonia. The cheap api ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kits will work while you cycle. People might flame me for this next one but for fish only I would get instant ocean purple bag salt. You’ll probably want to change that when you add coral but for fowlers it’s the most economical choice, that is of course if you plan on making your own water, which I highly recommend.

 

[JudgeN17]

If you are doing Fowler then the light and return pump are completely fine for now. The media tray is nice, socks kind of suck imo. Get an ato asap and after that look into an rodi unit. Both those will make your life easier. I’ve yet to find a good nano protein skimmer. You also want some rock, sand and starter bacteria. For the cycle I like dr Tim’s bacteria and ammonia. The cheap api ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kits will work while you cycle. People might flame me for this next one but for fish only I would get instant ocean purple bag salt. You’ll probably want to change that when you add coral but for fowlers it’s the most economical choice

Thanks. Yes I was looking into a RODI but need one I can take out and use and break down. DOn't have a place to permanently keep one up for now.

Yes, was going to use Dr. Tim's Bacteria.

For water parameters, am I checking the same things as I would a Freshwater (PH, Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) + salinity? Or I am also testing for others?

I heard a few people say not to use the cheap API testing (which I use now. Not strips, but the test tubes). Heard a few people saying get digital testers for better accuracy.

 

[JGStriker]

Ive got similar thoughts personally on the socks. I only place filter sock on when I have a specific purpose: Maybe I am blowing detritus off rocks or stirring up water some other way. Otherwise my more hands- off approach yields super dirty filter socks that likely are contributing to nutrient issues as opposed to helping

 

[Slcwinder]

If you are doing Fowler then the light and return pump are completely fine for now. The media tray is nice, socks kind of suck imo. Get an ato asap and after that look into an rodi unit. Both those will make your life easier. I’ve yet to find a good nano protein skimmer. You also want some rock, sand and starter bacteria. For the cycle I like dr Tim’s bacteria and ammonia. The cheap api ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kits will work while you cycle. People might flame me for this next one but for fish only I would get instant ocean purple bag salt. You’ll probably want to change that when you add coral but for fowlers it’s the most economical choice

Oh I forgot a refactrometer to test salinity but during your cycle yeah you’re testing for ammonia nitrite and nitrate I wouldn’t worry about ph. The api test tubes are fine for the cycle all you want to see is a progression ammonia -> nitrite->nitrate exact numbers are largely irrelevant. I would absolutely not spend the money on a Hannah digital ammonia or nitrite test kit ( if they even make them?) as they are largely irrelevant after the cycle, if you don’t mind spending $60 the Hannah high range nitrate tester is good