New Build Suggestions

[JoshH]

The 50 Lagoon is on my radar for sure. Curious if the cabinet would be long enough for a proper sump. Speaking of sump @Dkeller_nc mentioned being very limited to sump types with that cabinet. I'm inexperienced to say the least regarding sump selections. Any suggestions (not really wanting to do a DYI)?

I'll admit I have no previous experience with that particular cabinet only the one for my Red Sea Max C130 which had a slightly smaller cabinet. I went with a custom sump myself as what @Dkeller_nc is fairly true, there is a rather limited selection of sumps for cabinets that small. I don't have the exact dimensions of it either so I can't really suggest a particular one. It isn't grotesquely expensive going the custom acrylic route as long as you're not wanting something crazy like I ended up getting.

 

[Dkeller_nc]

Apologies for the miscue on the EXT30L, I have a bad habit of going to BRS's site when someone asks a question about equipment, and didn't realize they didn't sell that size.

With respect to tank size, I'd encourage you to think about the 40 or 50g EXT sizes. Both are 2' wide, which will fit your limitations on lights considerably better than longer tanks. One of the biggest issues with LEDs is getting good coverage without a lot of shadowing; I personally think the 2 primes would work better with a 2' length than a 3'.

In any event, I can confirm that you can use the Skimz 14 sump with the 40EXT mini's stand, and not much else. I looked at Trigger systems, Somatic, Bashea, and several others, and the Skimz was the only one that fit. Having said that, the stand will fit a standard 10 gallon cheapie glass tank from Petco. I've used one of those without any baffles for 15 years now on a 20g DIY nano, and it works quite well with no bubbles in the display. And it's big enough for a Reef Octopus 110SSS 5" skimmer, an Eheim hobby pump, a 125w Eheim Jager heater, and a Two Little Fishies phosban reactor, in addition to the Tunze ATO sensor, all without seeming so cramped that I can't work on things.

So there's lots of options to either save cash, or spend it on other things (like corals and fish!).

 

[Fotocha]

Apologies for the miscue on the EXT30L, I have a bad habit of going to BRS's site when someone asks a question about equipment, and didn't realize they didn't sell that size.

With respect to tank size, I'd encourage you to think about the 40 or 50g EXT sizes. Both are 2' wide, which will fit your limitations on lights considerably better than longer tanks. One of the biggest issues with LEDs is getting good coverage without a lot of shadowing; I personally think the 2 primes would work better with a 2' length than a 3'.

In any event, I can confirm that you can use the Skimz 14 sump with the 40EXT mini's stand, and not much else. I looked at Trigger systems, Somatic, Bashea, and several others, and the Skimz was the only one that fit. Having said that, the stand will fit a standard 10 gallon cheapie glass tank from Petco. I've used one of those without any baffles for 15 years now on a 20g DIY nano, and it works quite well with no bubbles in the display. And it's big enough for a Reef Octopus 110SSS 5" skimmer, an Eheim hobby pump, a 125w Eheim Jager heater, and a Two Little Fishies phosban reactor, in addition to the Tunze ATO sensor, all without seeming so cramped that I can't work on things.

So there's lots of options to either save cash, or spend it on other things (like corals and fish!).

Pictures? lol I'm curious how do you run your filtration?

 

[Dkeller_nc]

No pics, but you wouldn't be impressed with the 40EXT yet, since it's just an empty tank setting on the newly-assembled stand, with the Skimz 14 sump just setting inside. I just purchased this tank, so it'll be a couple of weeks at least before it gets wet. I don't, btw, use mechanical filtration of any kind on my tanks, whether reef socks, filter floss or "roller" filters. Technically, a skimmer is mechanical filtration, and I do run one of those on all tanks.

 

[Sod Buster]

If you have to match prices with your wife, that makes it easier to get the bigger tank. That's a more expensive necklace or vacation for her. If you really get lucky, she might like your 30 so much, she wants one too. Perfect. A matching his and hers.

 

[Fotocha]

If you have to match prices with your wife, that makes it easier to get the bigger tank. That's a more expensive necklace or vacation for her. If you really get lucky, she might like your 30 so much, she wants one too. Perfect. A matching his and hers.

I love the way you think, but she is a shopper and a cruiser for sure. Thats indeed a masterful sale if I can make that happen lol

 

[Fotocha]

No pics, but you wouldn't be impressed with the 40EXT yet, since it's just an empty tank setting on the newly-assembled stand, with the Skimz 14 sump just setting inside. I just purchased this tank, so it'll be a couple of weeks at least before it gets wet. I don't, btw, use mechanical filtration of any kind on my tanks, whether reef socks, filter floss or "roller" filters. Technically, a skimmer is mechanical filtration, and I do run one of those on all tanks.

Well I saw something at BRS which makes me question if it's worth it going with the IM tanks

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/inout-overflow-and-pulsing-return-system-xaqua.html

Found this XAqua In/Out return. Maybe not as dependable as a Hob Return. It's made for a Nano and I figure might make this work quite well. I was concerned about sound and I'm told they're still very silent. The plumbing was an aspect that drove the price on the 40B idea. As far as I can see this method looks like semi complete option for < $200 minus the cost of the tank and stand. I could pair this with maybe a 20g high or perhaps even another 40b for a bare sump.

I would like to see more options for a bare sump without baffles

 

[Dkeller_nc]

Well, any drain that's drilled through the tank wall is a better option than a HOB overflow. There might be people that post on the thread that tell you "I've used X HOB overflow for 5 years now, and no problems". That may well be true and honest, but there are also lots of folks that have emptied the entire sump's worth of saltwater over the top of their tank and onto the floor/carpet with an HOB overflow.

Since you're willing to drill the tank, a 40g breeder with one of e-shopps 600 or 800 gallon "herbie" overflows would be quite nice. Perhaps not as snazzy as a rimless starfire tank, but a whole lot cheaper, and if I were forced to decide whether to have the tank look cool or buy more interesting fish or coral, I'm going to choose the DIY route and the fish/coral every time.

There is, however, one consideration you should make. It's likely that you're going to decide you want 3 primes over a 3 foot tank in the future to avoid shadowing, so that adds to the cost of going with the 40g breeder, or other 3 foot tank. But if you build a stand, use a tank for the sump, and go with a self-drilled 40g breeder, you'll save way over the $$ required for a couple of extra light fixtures. Yet another option is keeping your nano running with its current prime fixture, and go T5HO over the 40g breeder. A 6-bulb T5HO ATI SunPower would give you all the light you'd ever need for anything you care to keep, even SPS, and it will fully illuminate the tank with no shadowing whatsoever.

Edit: If you want to see a video of IM's EXT40 like I just got, Jake Adams from Reefbuilders set one up in his studio and just did a video on it. Cool tank, but I wouldn't personally put a yellow tang in a 2' x 2' tank, nor would I go bare bottom. But it'll give you an idea of the aquascaping room you'd have in a 2'x2' (that will be far easier to illuminate with 2 AI Primes, if you decide to go that route).

 

[Sod Buster]

Fijicube makes a 30ish and a 50ish external overflow, dual return tank. They also make overflows and DIY sump kits. I've got the 22.4 ext and like it. The stuff is quality built.

 

[Fotocha]

Well, any drain that's drilled through the tank wall is a better option than a HOB overflow. There might be people that post on the thread that tell you "I've used X HOB overflow for 5 years now, and no problems". That may well be true and honest, but there are also lots of folks that have emptied the entire sump's worth of saltwater over the top of their tank and onto the floor/carpet with an HOB overflow.

Since you're willing to drill the tank, a 40g breeder with one of e-shopps 600 or 800 gallon "herbie" overflows would be quite nice. Perhaps not as snazzy as a rimless starfire tank, but a whole lot cheaper, and if I were forced to decide whether to have the tank look cool or buy more interesting fish or coral, I'm going to choose the DIY route and the fish/coral every time.

There is, however, one consideration you should make. It's likely that you're going to decide you want 3 primes over a 3 foot tank in the future to avoid shadowing, so that adds to the cost of going with the 40g breeder, or other 3 foot tank. But if you build a stand, use a tank for the sump, and go with a self-drilled 40g breeder, you'll save way over the $$ required for a couple of extra light fixtures. Yet another option is keeping your nano running with its current prime fixture, and go T5HO over the 40g breeder. A 6-bulb T5HO ATI SunPower would give you all the light you'd ever need for anything you care to keep, even SPS, and it will fully illuminate the tank with no shadowing whatsoever.

Edit: If you want to see a video of IM's EXT40 like I just got, Jake Adams from Reefbuilders set one up in his studio and just did a video on it. Cool tank, but I wouldn't personally put a yellow tang in a 2' x 2' tank, nor would I go bare bottom. But it'll give you an idea of the aquascaping room you'd have in a 2'x2' (that will be far easier to illuminate with 2 AI Primes, if you decide to go that route).

Agreed I WOULD prefer the the E-shopps of course. But, I would need to at the very least tube or pipe them (2 lines at least 1 Return, not including Loc-Line parts etc). Pipe isn't cheap. The In/out fixture has a tubing kit that can be bought for $60. Just 2 tubes. I mentioned before I enjoy in the maintenance. My tanks are immaculate, no salt creep, no mineral deposits, no algae. So, I'd be sure to keep that return clean.

As far as the primes go. I agree a 3rd setup or perhaps selling the primes and buying a hydra, not sure which just yet. I'm going to progress it. Believe it or not, my EVO was an anemone tank lol. 6 Anemones (2 GBT, 1 RBT, 1 Condy, 2 RF ultras. Which given this new tank build will not included the BT's + Condy (going to be sold off). I really don't have anything else... at this point that needs the light. It gives me time to evaluate the lighting. Resale value is a big factor in my lighting choice. I felt the LEDs give me the best option of both.

I found these baffle kits might be worth a try

https://oceanboxdesigns.com/product/reef-reactive-sump-kit-for-20-gallon-long-aquarium/

or

https://www.fijicube.com/products/s...lon-breeder-fiji-cube#shopify-product-reviews

 

[Dkeller_nc]

Well, your resale value will be considerably higher with an ATI T5HO fixture than with an LED fixture. The LED fixtures go through revisions/model changes, which considerably lowers their resale value when the latest 'n greatest comes out. Keep in mind also, that one hydra does not replace two primes. As I and others have said before, intensity isn't the issue with an LED fixture (unless it's a really under-spec reef light), it's spread. Over a 3 foot tank, you'd be far better off with 3 Primes than one Radion XR30.

To give you an idea, I run one Radion XR30 and 2 Radion XR15s over a 2 foot by 2 foot 50 gallon Cadlights tank. It's enough from the standpoint of evenness of coverage, but just barely. The new IM 40EXT will have an 8 bulb ATI T5HO.

Pipe, by the way, is cheap as dirt, as long as you're OK with white.

 

[Fotocha]

Hmm seems I need to look into this some more. Thanks for the info

 

[Fotocha]

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/24-matrixx-ii-4x24w-t5-giesemann.html

or

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/24-h...re-with-led-mounting-system-aquatic-life.html

Is this enough going forwards? I looked at the 36" Hybrid fixtures first over the 24" but, after the cost of the fixture. I doubt I could afford another Prime to fill the 36" (at least at this point) Or would the 36" Hybrid be ok to run without 2 primes for the time being?

Sounded to me trying to light a 36" tank with a 24" fixture was a bad idea. Maybe I'm wrong.

Mounting options, any idea if this can be mounted to an arm over a hang option?

 

[Dkeller_nc]

Presuming that you are intending to go with a 40g breeder, I'd get either the ATI 4-bulb or 6-bulb fixture. If you're going with a soft coral/LPS tank, 4 bulbs will likely be enough. If you're going with a high-light requirement LPS or mixed LPS/SPS tank, I'd go with 6 bulbs. If you're going with all SPS throughout the depth of the tank, I'd probably go with the 8-bulb fixture.

Up to you whether you want to spend the extra dinero on the dimmable ATI fixture. I'm going with a dimmable 8-bulb fixture over the 40gEXT IM, but that's because I already have the dimmable fixture. Dimmability is an interesting feature that I do use with my Radions over my 50g, but that's simply because it's already there, and it's mostly for decorative effect. Ramp up/Ramp down doesn't seem to have much to do with the health of fish or corals.

 

[Fotocha]

I think I’ll do, what this build did and center the Prime with a hybrid fixture or sell the prime and put 2 Aqua Knights in

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-big-beautiful-budget-breeder-build.405791/

 

[Fotocha]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001CYV2B4/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Thoughts 8 bulb fixture for $300