New Polyps On The Way? Lets Talk Precautionary Measures!

[subielover]

Great job Randy!

 

[mfinn]

Very nice write up.
Great pictures and descriptions.


I've done very similar precautions myself with new arrivals, before putting them in any tank, but the zoanthid only tank.
One thing I have changed for my own steps was to go from lugols or revive dips to a fwe dip at 4x the recommended dose.

 

[Wy Renegade]

Great write up and a picture is worth a million word.. Thanks for the tips..

Awesome write up and great information

Thank you both for taking the time to review it and for the kind words. Hope you find it helpful.

i would seriously urge anyone that attempts to use peroxide to research it more in depth.
it isnt a be all and can/will kill alot of zoas and palys. some are very sensitive to the dip and some dont seem to care at all

Nixar, can you give us a list of those Zs-n-Ps which have shown a poor reaction to or sensitivity to hydrogen peroxide? I think that would be very helpful for all of us.

WOW soo helpfull...

Thank you!

Would you recommend doing a Furan-2 dip after a Lugols dip? Or is do you only use this when you actually see zoapox? Just wondering if it would be too much or not even needed.

Actually I probably would do the opposite, If I saw evidence of zoapox, I would dip in Furan-2 first, than in Lugols. I personally have found Furan-2 to be ineffective except for bacterial and a few fungal infections. I also feel (personal opinion) that it is somewhat stressful on the zoas. I know that it is stressful to me, since it requires you to do numerous consequitive dips on the same frag in order to be effective, so I only use it when necessary.

How does revive work on nudis? I dipped mine and accidently forgot them overnight doh! but the opened up once in the tank

Rick, I personally have only used Revive one time on zoas, although I do use it as the primary dip for other types of corals. However since I'm primarily a Zs-n-Ps guy, I don't have much cause to use it. To me it just seems rather strange to dip corals in something that smells like Chlorox bleach. Its effective, no question about that, but it just seems strange. I know several people who use it for everything and swear by it.

Why would you bother temp acclimating when you're just going to pull them out of the water and dip them?

But, you're pulling the frags out of water 3-4 times to dip in this and that.

I understand the precautions and think it's great, but I think the temp acclimate in the beginning is useless. if anything, it well stress the frag even more from constant temp changes unless each cup is floating on the aquarium surface.

if it's working for you guys than keep it up.

Newman, I temperature acclimate in the beginning for several different reasons. First, I want to get the Zs-n-Ps out of the bag they were shipped in as quickly as possible. That means I need to get them into tank water, and that means they need to be raised to the proper temperature before introduction. Otherwise I risk losing them to temperature stress. Secondly, I'm generally only removing from the original tankwater (to which iodine or hydrogen peroxide is added) to either go into a iodine dip and/or to rinse in clean tank water prior to placing in the tank - its all the same water, taken from the tank just prior to using, so its all within the same temperature range. In the event that I need to do a long term dip (usually with iodine, I either add a heater to the container, or I float the container in the sump.

But the water you're using to do the dips, is tank water. If you float the bag, your dips and your corals (still in the bags) will be the same temperatures.

Correct, thank you Todd.

great write up!!!

Thank you

Randy,

I know this is the Zoa sub-forum, but have you tried H2O2 dip on other corals (LPS, SPS, etc)? I need to dip a Zoa frag tomorrow that's growing a little HA, and wanted to try it on a Symphillia frag that's struggling.

Todd, did so for the very first time last week when I was taking pictures for this write-up. I had a decent-sized frag of one of my monticaps that had become over grown with hair algae. I tried it as an experiment. I slimed up like crazy, but so far seems to be holding its color and does not seem to have suffered any ill effects. I'll report back after another week or so. on that as well.

That's a good writeup, but please include some warnings about the palytoxin poisoning. Especially when one of our members got a little bit of it (just resulted in shortness of breath and a headache) by dipping in hydrogen peroxide and breathing it in.

Thanks,
CJ

Good point CJ, I'll go back and edit and put in a link the palytoxin article. Thanks for pointing out my oversight. In the mean time, here's the link for those who haven't read it.
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/zo...alytoxin-poisoning-its-potential-dangers.html

Wow thanks for what I think is the best explanation with awesome pictures of z/p acclimation. This should be given to every new reefer... the amount of headaches and heartaches saved would be astronomical.

Great job Randy!

Thank you both for taking the time to read it over and for the kind words. Hopefully some will indeed find it helpful.

 

[VegasRick]

It is a good write up, not being a z n p person I know very little about them and found the info usefull. If possible add some pictures of the zoa-pox and some nudis (and anything else I am not aware of) so we know what we are looking for on new frags and I think it would be a complete guide

 

[Wy Renegade]

Very nice write up.
Great pictures and descriptions.


I've done very similar precautions myself with new arrivals, before putting them in any tank, but the zoanthid only tank.
One thing I have changed for my own steps was to go from lugols or revive dips to a fwe dip at 4x the recommended dose.

Thanks Martin, can you be more specific for me? FWE = ?

 

[florida reef]

Awesome write up! The pictures are so helpful.

 

[Wy Renegade]

It is a good write up, not being a z n p person I know very little about them and found the info usefull. If possible add some pictures of the zoa-pox and some nudis (and anything else I am not aware of) so we know what we are looking for on new frags and I think it would be a complete guide

Thanks Rick, I'll be happy to put that together, maybe we can also combine in Brian's write-up on the Furan-2 dip. Unfortunately (or fortunately), I've never had to deal with either nudis or zoa-pox so I don't have any pictures of either. If someone else is willing to post or share their pictures, I'll be happy to do the write-ups.

 

[Tabasco1]

I did not happen to see, but I am really hoping this is a sticky! Fantastic write up and thank you so much for putting so much time into it. I definately learned alot and feel better about the acclimating z & Ps!

 

[mfinn]

Thanks Martin, can you be more specific for me? FWE = ?

I use a Flat Worm Exit dip on all new colonies/frags that go into my system either from vendors/lfs/hobbists/friends.
It works many times faster than any other chemical I've seen so far. Within seconds the nudi's disolve.
The only thing (as with all others) it doesn't work on is the eggs.
Here is where I found the info at.
http://www.practicalcoralfarming.com/zoonudis.html

 

[Wy Renegade]

I use a Flat Worm Exit dip on all new colonies/frags that go into my system either from vendors/lfs/hobbists/friends.
It works many times faster than any other chemical I've seen so far. Within seconds the nudi's disolve.
The only thing (as with all others) it doesn't work on is the eggs.
Here is where I found the info at.
http://www.practicalcoralfarming.com/zoonudis.html

Excellent Martin, thank you for the link. Any reason for the 4X strength you indicated?

 

[mfinn]

I believe that was the recommended strenght in the link.
It was what I used and it worked great.

 

[Wy Renegade]

I believe that was the recommended strenght in the link.
It was what I used and it worked great.

Awesome - thanks for the info, I'll definitely be following up on that one.

 

[Wy Renegade]

Randy,

I know this is the Zoa sub-forum, but have you tried H2O2 dip on other corals (LPS, SPS, etc)? I need to dip a Zoa frag tomorrow that's growing a little HA, and wanted to try it on a Symphillia frag that's struggling.

Todd, tried this on a monticap frag as I mentioned. Monticap bleached white within two days, and has absolutely no color. I don't recommend the H202 for SPS frags.

 

[dougers31]

Todd, tried this on a monticap frag as I mentioned. Monticap bleached white within two days, and has absolutely no color. I don't recommend the H202 for SPS frags.

I did the same thing with 3 different types of sps and none of them faired to well.... I think they are still alive but 1 or 2 bleached. The zoas/palys I dipped still are showing signs of stress a few days after dipping but the algae is dead. My hy. peroxide to saltwater ratio was 1:3 or 25% hy. peroxide. I also dipped them for about 5 minutes or so.

 

[tampasnooker]

Sticky, please! Along with the dipping write up. Great job on both.

 

[tampasnooker]

D'oh. My bad. Randy's really on it. He even made all the useful ones in one convenient thread:
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/zoa-discussion-club-zoa/58546-general-zs-n-ps-info-need.html

 

[Wy Renegade]

Sticky, please! Along with the dipping write up. Great job on both.

D'oh. My bad. Randy's really on it. He even made all the useful ones in one convenient thread:
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/zoa-discussion-club-zoa/58546-general-zs-n-ps-info-need.html

Thanks we're trying to keep the forum organized without 20 sticky threads at the top of every page. I haven't heard much from people indicating whether they like that format or not though.

 

[tampasnooker]

You're doing a great job of it. I need to spend more time on this forum. Perhaps one of these 2 threads should be stickied, given how valuable they are to z+p enthusiasts. Today was the first time I'd seen the general info sticky. Maybe I just don't read closely enough...

 

[Jacksonfoldes]

when you said that you rinse the coral.. what do you rinse it in?

 

[Wy Renegade]

when you said that you rinse the coral.. what do you rinse it in?

A container of regular tank water that you dispose of afterwards.