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michy

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Hi everyone, I’m new here, first time ever owning marine, wanted them for years and decided take the leap. Started with a 90litre /120with sump tank. I’ve done lots of research but heard about this amazing group. Any tips welcome, I’m currently 2 weeks into my Fishless cycle. Getting saltwater and RO water to top up from LFS, also using them to test my water but have a kit just to test daily at home. I used Dr Tim’s ammonia until I had 2ppm then stopped that and just adding seachem stability daily. I have live sand and dry rock. Temp at 26 degrees. Anything else I need know. Will buy a wave maker and skimmer soon.

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Welcome to your new home for saltwater reef aquarium resources and fun! Welcome to the family! :D
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michy

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Aqua reef tank . Also Nolan’s my on adding 2 clowns first for a while . How long shall I wait before adding shrimp, snails ect and more fish , what do you feed your fish and how often. Planning on 10% water change a week and do I add anything daily/ weekly when I finally get the fish or just keep testing weekly ? Thank u
 

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Crabs McJones

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Welcome to R2R!
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Weekly water changes are perfect. Daily will just be little things, feeding and cleaning algae off the glass.
 

vetteguy53081

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vetteguy53081

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Hi everyone, I’m new here, first time ever owning marine, wanted them for years and decided take the leap. Started with a 90litre /120with sump tank. I’ve done lots of research but heard about this amazing group. Any tips welcome, I’m currently 2 weeks into my Fishless cycle. Getting saltwater and RO water to top up from LFS, also using them to test my water but have a kit just to test daily at home. I used Dr Tim’s ammonia until I had 2ppm then stopped that and just adding seachem stability daily. I have live sand and dry rock. Temp at 26 degrees. Anything else I need know. Will buy a wave maker and skimmer soon.

image.jpg IMG_6261.jpeg
These are not the best or reliable kits to use and I suggest investing in Hanna or Salifert brand. Its easy to achieve false or uncertain results with API kits and also disregard use of Nitrite test which applies to freshwater. Additionally, take a water sample to a store that does NOT use API tests and see what readings they come up with.
As for cycling, when ammonia rises then falls and holds a steady reading of Zero for at least 5 days and also nitrate rises and falls and holds at 20 or below- you are cycled.
 
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michy

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These are not the best or reliable kits to use and I suggest investing in Hanna or Salifert brand. Its easy to achieve false or uncertain results with API kits and also disregard use of Nitrite test which applies to freshwater. Additionally, take a water sample to a store that does NOT use API tests and see what readings they come up with.
As for cycling, when ammonia rises then falls and holds a steady reading of Zero for at least 5 days and also nitrate rises and falls and holds at 20 or below- you are cycled.
Thank u … yes I go to the fish store once a week have it tested these kits are just for at home in between but I will invest in another kit thank u . These are the results a week ago at the fish shop
 

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michy

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Also I did a 25% water change after these results and nitrites seem to have spiked more since then but obviously it’s the API test kit so I will go back get them tested again . I’m hoping I’m not too far off .. trying be patient lol
 

vetteguy53081

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Also I did a 25% water change after these results and nitrites seem to have spiked more since then but obviously it’s the API test kit so I will go back get them tested again . I’m hoping I’m not too far off .. trying be patient lol
Again, ignore Nitrites and as suggested, to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
 

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Welcome to R2R!

You don't want to be doing water changes until your initial cycle is complete. The water changes will just slow down the cycle. Until both Ammonia and Nitrite are reading zero, your Nitrate reading is pretty much useless as the Nitrites will skew the results. What you are trying to do is to build up two different types of bacterial populations, one that converts Ammonia to Nitrite, and a second that converts Nitrite to Nitrate. Reducing the Ammonia or Nitrite through water changes just makes it take longer to build up a sufficient bacterial population. Once the Ammonia and Nitrite go to zero, and return to zero shortly after adding more Ammonia to the system, usually with something like Ammonium Chloride today, your tank is cycled. Then a water change will reduce the Nitrates that have built up in the tank.

Once the tank is cycled you can add non-bacterial life to the tank but do it in small amounts as each new inhabitant will increase the tanks bio-load and the bacterial population needs time to grow to match the new bio-load.

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