Noo-Psyche K7 Pro V3 - Wrong Power Supply?

[stoney7713]

I think the problem started because the lights were listed as 140watt and the power supply is listed as 126watts. I just visited their website and unless I'm missing it I no longer see the lights output being listed and I'm pretty sure it used to state they were 140 watt :thinking-face:

Your are correct, and they sold a power supply rated for 144w.

 

[Thumbster]

I think the problem started because the lights were listed as 140watt and the power supply is listed as 126watts. I just visited their website and unless I'm missing it I no longer see the lights output being listed and I'm pretty sure it used to state they were 140 watt :thinking-face:

It’s still on there.

So if I put the new lights at 100% on my kasa strip it would only read 126ish watts?

If so, it wouldn’t be a safety hazard but just a misrepresentation of the lights power?

 

[stoney7713]

It’s still on there.

So if I put the new lights at 100% on my kasa strip it would only read 126ish watts?

If so, it wouldn’t be a safety hazard but just a misrepresentation of the lights power?

What they are trying to say is the light will use 124w, the power supply uses 16w, together they use 140w. But only 124w goes to the light, the output watts.

If you measure from your outlet to the power supply it's 140w. The power supply uses 16w, then outputs 124w if you could measure between the power supply and the light.

I don't agree with the way this all unfolded, but I understand what they are trying to say now.

 

[BetteMidler]

It’s still on there.

So if I put the new lights at 100% on my kasa strip it would only read 126ish watts?

If so, it wouldn’t be a safety hazard but just a misrepresentation of the lights power?

The lights are capable of 140w & they do not care what is supplying them. This whole thing reminds me of the movie fight club on how Ed Norton is evaluating risk. The likelihood the 123w supply running at full power of the light is going to catch fire is unlikely, but there is a risk on using a lower spec'd device. Your Kasa Strip is going to read 140w & there is the safety risk. You have a device rated lower than the application.

 

[Thumbster]

The lights are capable of 140w & they do not care what is supplying them. This whole thing reminds me of the movie fight club on how Ed Norton is evaluating risk. The likelihood the 123w supply running at full power of the light is going to catch fire is unlikely, but there is a risk on using a lower spec'd device. Your Kasa Strip is going to read 140w & there is the safety risk. You have a device rated lower than the application.

I guess I’m still not understanding.

The LEDs will only use as much power as it gets, correct?

If I have a 300 watt LED and use a 100 watt power supply to light it I’m still only go to get 100 watts out of the power supply and the LED won’t be as bright as it could be, unless I’m missing something.

I’m not understanding how this is any more dangerous than dimming an LED slightly.

 

[BetteMidler]

I guess I’m still not understanding.

The LEDs will only use as much power as it gets, correct?

If I have a 300 watt LED and use a 100 watt power supply to light it I’m still only go to get 100 watts out of the power supply and the LED won’t be as bright as it could be, unless I’m missing something.

I’m not understanding how this is any more dangerous than dimming an LED slightly.

Typically, you want to have the power supply wattage greater than the device. The MAX draw of these lights is 140w. Regardless if you have 100w supply or 500w supply, the lights are going to try to draw 140w at max setting. This 123w version is capable of pushing the lights at 140w, even though it is only rated at 123w. The risk is degradation/life of the supply or even the lights is at hand. Along with safety concerns. The power supply will most likely run hotter & have stress on the components. It is not rated or meant to be used higher than 123w. Can it do 140w, yes. Is it recommended, no. There are reasons these labels exist. No telling what long term use of this supply above it rated wattage is going to do. I would trust the label over what anyone said or says. Just know there is a risk if running these at full power.

 

[oreo54]

I guess I’m still not understanding.

The LEDs will only use as much power as it gets, correct?

If I have a 300 watt LED and use a 100 watt power supply to light it I’m still only go to get 100 watts out of the power supply and the LED won’t be as bright as it could be, unless I’m missing something.

I’m not understanding how this is any more dangerous than dimming an LED slightly.

Yes, leds are generally passive devices but it is a bit more complicated than you state.
I've run led ribbons on like 1A 12v ps and they were just dimmer than running the recommended amperage.
But lets just agree it is NOT a good idea.

Generally if the switching power supply is "stressed" it will have a voltage drop.
If really stressed it should stop working.
As "I" understand it.

All this measuring from the wall is a bit pointless.

Either check across (parallel) the light for the 24v (I think or 12) is steady at 100%.

Or measure the amp draw in series and the voltage and calculate actual light watts from there.
Again past the "brick".

What the brick consumes prior to output isn't relevant except to understand efficiency I guess.
As to dangerous, depends but one thing is sort of certain, you re pushing the parts specs probably past their limits.

Dimming in most cases is just turning the light on/off (PWM) in a timed sequence. The wattage at "on" never changes and the "off" period would allow some cooling of the ps components. like the MOSFETs.

 

[MIke Wood]

Yes, leds are generally passive devices but it is a bit more complicated than you state.
I've run led ribbons on like 1A 12v ps and they were just dimmer than running the recommended amperage.
But lets just agree it is NOT a good idea.

Generally if the switching power supply is "stressed" it will have a voltage drop.
If really stressed it should stop working.
As "I" understand it.

All this measuring from the wall is a bit pointless.

Either check across (parallel) the light for the 24v (I think or 12) is steady at 100%.

Or measure the amp draw in series and the voltage and calculate actual light watts from there.
Again past the "brick".

What the brick consumes prior to output isn't relevant except to understand efficiency I guess.
As to dangerous, depends but one thing is sort of certain, you re pushing the parts specs probably past their limits.

Dimming in most cases is just turning the light on/off (PWM) in a timed sequence. The wattage at "on" never changes and the "off" period would allow some cooling of the ps components. like the MOSFETs.

im not an electrician, but my understanding was that the power supply is actually a 140w supply housed in a 126w casing. I assume the bronze power supply cost went up and they wanted to maximize profits and made their own. Again, i could be wrong and maybe the apex isnt reading it right either. But when plugged into the apex i get a read out of 1.6 amps being used when light is full power. 1.6amps x 110 volts = 176 total watts. I doubt they are using high efficient power supplies- especially since it appears they frankensteined one together. so my guess is probably 80% efficient which would give you an output of 140.8watts. so the power supply is using 176 total watts from the wall to supply the light with 140.8 watts. again this was my take on it. could be completely wrong.

 

[G150Driver]

im not an electrician, but my understanding was that the power supply is actually a 140w supply housed in a 126w casing. I assume the bronze power supply cost went up and they wanted to maximize profits and made their own. Again, i could be wrong and maybe the apex isnt reading it right either. But when plugged into the apex i get a read out of 1.6 amps being used when light is full power. 1.6amps x 110 volts = 176 total watts. I doubt they are using high efficient power supplies- especially since it appears they frankensteined one together. so my guess is probably 80% efficient which would give you an output of 140.8watts. so the power supply is using 176 total watts from the wall to supply the light with 140.8 watts. again this was my take on it. could be completely wrong.

Thanks for posting your findings. I don’t have a way to test it and I’m not going to buy something just to test the lights. This should be pretty helpful for anyone looking into these lights. Noop was stating the supply has 126w output, I don’t think they are sure at this point.

 

[V A R I A N T]

As it turns out, I had purchased a second K7 V3 Pro before this post was made. I went so far to see if I could cancel, but there is no way to do so that I could find. I decided to go through with it and have the light delivered. It shipped from China, so that makes me pause and wonder what happened to the relationship with Zach B, who facilitated my prior purchase and delivery.

Since I had the light, and a Kill a Watt strip, I ran a test minutes ago. Here is what I found:

Here is the light connected:

Power supply:

Programming to run light 100% all channels:

Tests in progress:

I did not run the light for long, so I cannot speak to temperature of the power supply over duration.

 

[oreo54]

Lots o certs.... good thing..

 

[Thumbster]

Lots o certs.... good thing..

What does that mean?

I wish I knew electronics.

 

[oreo54]

What does that mean?

I wish I knew electronics.

UL listed ect. Means they paid someone to test their work..
Some listings are self tested.

A lot of cheap power supplies have few certifications.
Problem is it is sort of cryptic and sometimes means less than you think.

Some are for rfi interference (not sure this has one though I certainly am not familiar with all labels), some for safety ect.
It is very complicated afaict.
https://www.bravoelectro.com/blog/post/power-supply-certification
The TUV Rhineland one is rare to me.

Not sure it isn't just psychologically satisfying.

The VI defines the no load power consumption level and efficiency
0.21 (or less) no load watts and >/= 88%
https://www.megaelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Energy-Level-VI-Introduction.pdf

The EPA estimates that external power supply efficiency regulations
implemented over the past decade have reduced energy consumption
by 32 billion kW, saving $2.5 billion annually and reducing CO2 emissions
by more than 24 million tons per year. Moving beyond the mandated
government regulations, many OEMs are now starting to demand “greener”
power supplies as a way to differentiate their end products, driving efficiencies
continually higher and even pushing the implementation of control technologies
that in some cases eliminate no-load power consumption altogether.

If legit (and no reason to believe its counterfeit or faked) the ps certainly "appears" better than the average Chinese stuff.

Still really doesn't have anything to do with being err "mismatched" or not but should lower the chances of it bursting into flames.. :)

 

[MIke Wood]

Thanks for posting your findings. I don’t have a way to test it and I’m not going to buy something just to test the lights. This should be pretty helpful for anyone looking into these lights. Noop was stating the supply has 126w output, I don’t think they are sure at this point.

Yeah all their responses seem off. Could ve language barrier or just that they really don't know what they did.

UL listed ect. Means they paid someone to test their work..
Some listings are self tested.

A lot of cheap power supplies have few certifications.
Problem is it is sort of cryptic and sometimes means less than you think.

Some are for rfi interference (not sure this has one though I certainly am not familiar with all labels), some for safety ect.
It is very complicated afaict.
https://www.bravoelectro.com/blog/post/power-supply-certification
The TUV Rhineland one is rare to me.

Not sure it isn't just psychologically satisfying.

The VI defines the no load power consumption level and efficiency
0.21 (or less) no load watts and >/= 88%
https://www.megaelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Energy-Level-VI-Introduction.pdf

If legit (and no reason to believe its counterfeit or faked) the ps certainly "appears" better than the average Chinese stuff.

Still really doesn't have anything to do with being err "mismatched" or not but should lower the chances of it bursting into flames.. :)

yes alot of certifications on the back of that power supply casing. But Noops said they modified the power supply to meet the specs of the light. i doubt the certs would carry over after the modications?

 

[V A R I A N T]

The power supply glues together; it is not screwed together. My power supply is perfectly assembled and does not look like it has been separated, fiddled with, and then reassembled. I seriously doubt Noop disassembled the power supply, made changes, and then reassembled them. Could they have negotiated a separate run at the factory? Plausible. But if that was the case, why would a manufacturer leave the same labeling on the casing? It's more likely they paired a 126watt power supply with a 140watt light than anything else. I choose to believe that over undocumented responses from the vendor.

 

[jtone_philthy_aquatics]

I’ve been debating the last couple of weeks on replacing some old AI’s with either Noopsyche, new AI Hrydras, or Reef Factory Reef Flares. I was going to pull the trigger on the Noopsyches, but after seeing this post, going to cross them off the list.

same here just days back i was about to place the order but just before finishing the transaction I decided to do 1 more deep dive into the noop threads. I was bummed to come across this convo because I was dead set on noops being the best option for my frag tank. Even tho they are fairly cheap lights it’s still $150 somethin bucks at the end of the day and I’ve done enough AliExpress led shopping in the past to know better when I see multiple ppl having issues/ doubts about a product that’s manufactured over seas. It’s a shame that they aren’t being transparent with their supporters.

 

[jtone_philthy_aquatics]

Idk this might be stupid of me but after receiving the smatfarm led and seeing it lit in person this color spectrum doesn’t look that great imo. I just ordered a noop from the main site. I’ll post an update when I receive it and let y’all know which power supply mine has. It’s coming from china. ik I look dumb considering a few hours ago I said I wasn’t going to do this….

 

[jtone_philthy_aquatics]

I figure it’s going over a lowboy that already has a radion xr30 g5 covering half so I’ll never have it maxed out power wise.

 

[noopsyche Verified Sponsor]

All lamps on the market are marked with total power (including the power loss of all parts). The total power is 140w including the power loss of all parts (such as fans, power supplies, cables). Runs at 100% without overload! Not only PRO III, other brands of lights, whether they are marked 160watt or 260watt, 360watt are marked the total power consumption.

 

[Aaron75]

All lamps on the market are marked with total power (including the power loss of all parts). The total power is 140w including the power loss of all parts (such as fans, power supplies, cables). Runs at 100% without overload! Not only PRO III, other brands of lights, whether they are marked 160watt or 260watt, 360watt are marked the total power consumption.

We understand that, that isn't the concern. Just a quick Google search of possible competitors, 100w Nicrew has a 120w brick, 270w Reefi Uno Pro has a 300w brick.