Noo-Psyche K7 Pro V3 - Wrong Power Supply?

[Sisterlimonpot]

As I further look at their instructions, it appears that they want you to use jumper wires in between the plug of the power supply. Ground and neutral will be connected directly and use the ammeter to make connections between the hot.

Assuming that goes as planned you're going to be able to see the current change as you change the intensity of the light.

THE BIGGEST CONCERN I HAVE, is that this appears to be testing on the AC side and not the DC side.

Does the DC connector have a 3 pronged connector?

 

[G150Driver]

I’d have to check the dc line from the power supply. By memory, it does not. I agree that does not look like a test the end user should be performing. The way it looked to me was the AC side as well. I thought I’d be electrocuted if I tried that.

 

[OutColdCRNA]

This all seems a bit extreme. I would think the proper customer service would be something along these lines. “ we acknowledge the the power supply is mislabeled, we can assure you the power supply is safe but, because the mistake is with our manufacturing and sending a mislabeled unit we will send you the correct labeled or previous generation power supply”. That seems like the most appropriate response and not warranting a 5 page thread.

 

[exnisstech]

and say if they don't provide better answers, we're no longer going to recommend or purchase your product.

I read through pretty much all of this thread and your statement above is exactly the stand I'm taking and it's not meant to be threatening to the company it's just fact. We're taking about mislabeling an electrical device that has the potential to cause a fire and perhaps injure or kill family members. The only reason they can even think about getting away with this is because they are in China. JMO

 

[MIke Wood]

This all seems a bit extreme. I would think the proper customer service would be something along these lines. “ we acknowledge the the power supply is mislabeled, we can assure you the power supply is safe but, because the mistake is with our manufacturing and sending a mislabeled unit we will send you the correct labeled or previous generation power supply”. That seems like the most appropriate response and not warranting a 5 page thread.

This is what would keep customers and future customers easy about their purchases. They messaged me saying they would be willing to replace with the bronze power supply. I agreed and they have yet to respond to that.

 

[silent1mezzo]

I Just bought a pair of K7 Pro III's a couple months back. Got the bronze version but now I'm worried about them.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

I think the purpose of the test is to prove that these "mis-marked" power supplies are rated for the lights.

It makes sense to allow the end user to test for themselves, however it requires someone with some knowledge on how to test current and to know what they're looking for.

If it were me and I had these lights and the mis-marked power supply I could easily make an adapter that goes between the DC side plug and light so that I can monitor amperage as I increase light demand. But I don't know if that test alone would be sufficient enough to give the power supply a green checkmark.

I think if someone is willing to test this, they would also have to monitor voltage. If after 126w the voltage starts to drop below 24v, then I'd be willing to safely say that it is in fact a 126w power supply.

 

[stoney7713]

I think the purpose of the test is to prove that these "mis-marked" power supplies are rated for the lights.

It makes sense to allow the end user to test for themselves, however it requires someone with some knowledge on how to test current and to know what they're looking for.

If it were me and I had these lights and the mis-marked power supply I could easily make an adapter that goes between the DC side plug and light so that I can monitor amperage as I increase light demand. But I don't know if that test alone would be sufficient enough to give the power supply a green checkmark.

I think if someone is willing to test this, they would also have to monitor voltage. If after 126w the voltage starts to drop below 24v, then I'd be willing to safely say that it is in fact a 126w power supply.

It should not be on the consumer to test anything.

The power supply is mislabeled, it's misleading, it was not what was advertised originally.

Changes were made and unfortunately were not updated on the site, I can overlook that.

The real issue is a power supply does not state the 140w capacity, if noopsyche did change something inside, did they just just crank up a pot to increase the output and is it still safe to use. That would concern me more than anything.

I do own a K7 pro and this does bother me as I was thinking of purchasing another.

 

[DanTheReefer]

126w is the actual maximum output power of DC output. The international standard is plus or minus 5% fault tolerance. The maximum power tested by K7 PRO III is 140watt (this includes the power loss of the power supply, and the power supply efficiency is 88%)

What they are saying is the light+power supply draw 140 watts. The light is drawing 126 watts and the power supply is drawing 14 watts while at full power. The power supply should be rated to output up to the max wattage, and the total draw measured at the AC plug will be more because of power supply inefficiency.

My 3 NP V3s draw exactly 140 watts total including power supply as measured by my smart wifi strip while at full power so it makes sense.

I came close to testing for the 126 watts between the light and power supply but my DC plugs were slightly too wide for the NP barrel and I don’t want to cut the cable.

My guess it the power supply is properly sized and is certainly properly sized for when your cut your green and red channels to below 50%

 

[G150Driver]

This is a great explanation. Thanks for including the total wattage of 140. I also refuse to cut the cable to determine if the output between Ps and lamp is 126w. What I’m understanding is the light is 126w, not 140w as advertised. and the new power supply output is rated at maximum draw potential, and does not have a “very large load capacity” so it will “not burn out” as stated on their website before they removed the statement.
Again, I”m loving the light and Chanel customization. Great mix and pop.

 

[DanTheReefer]

This is a great explanation. Thanks for including the total wattage of 140. I also refuse to cut the cable to determine if the output between Ps and lamp is 126w. What I’m understanding is the light is 126w, not 140w as advertised. and the new power supply output is rated at maximum draw potential, and does not have a “very large load capacity” so it will “not burn out” as stated on their website before they removed the statement.
Again, I”m loving the light and Chanel customization. Great mix and pop.

Yeah I posted a video by Jake Adams to this thread a couple days ago where he was going over extra wattage claims by light manufacturers, not unique to NP. They can fix this by taking the AI approach which says the 16HDs power is 55 watts “from the wall”, one of the higher end lights Jake reviewed wasn’t even at stated power even counting the power supply, they totaled up rated wattage of each of the LEDs but the light logic did not allow them all to be full power at the same time. So benefit of the doubt from me that NP hits 140 watts including power supply.

They are a great light at a great price, I was expecting issues after switching from ATI T5s last November but my only losses ended up being aggressive corals growing fast and killing their neighbors, oh brother

 

[oreo54]

WOW, what a cluster.....
For those concerned just buy an open frame 200w $30 Meanwell power supply.( pick what you need wattage, with a big enough one you can run multiple lights off one ps)

My take on testing is just use a kill a watt meter in the ac side and measure the voltage consistency on the dc side from 0 to 100%
Should stay steady at around 24v. If it drops at 100% you are probably overloading the power supply.

Most modern switching ps " should" have over current protection and will go into shutdown or limp mode.


Now I'm not an ee.... just my 2 cent opinion.

LRS Mean Well Enclosed Switching Power Supplies

 

[G150Driver]

Hey, everyone. I appreciate all the input and attention given to this. In case you are wondering, this is the final word from Noop:

I am planning on using the provided power supply for the time being. The light is over an Innovative Marine 15 so I will not be close to pushing the light to its limit. It will be transferred to a larger tank next year, though.
Thanks again.

 

[Cell]

So despite the rep here saying they would replace with the power supply that was advertised at the time of purchase, they now say everything is fine and just deal with it?

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

So despite the rep here saying they would replace with the power supply that was advertised at the time of purchase, they now say everything is fine and just deal with it?

A perfect example of the spokesman trying to relay information that they don't fully understand.

 

[exnisstech]

Well this is not good news. I'm no electrician but selling 140 watt light with a 126 watt power supply should not be acceptable even if it does function. They are just maximizing profit IMO.

 

[exnisstech]

A perfect example of the spokesman trying to relay information that they don't fully understand.

Or maybe an example of a representative wanting to take care of the customer by doing what's right but having corporate override that decision.

 

[Thumbster]

Maybe I’m not understanding this correctly but the new power supplies output the same amount of power as the “old” bronze power supplies according to Noopsyche? So it’s just a labeling issue?

FWIW here’s my Kasa strip showing 143 watts when I’ve got my light cranked up to 100% with the bronze power supplies. Would the new power supply not show that?

I don’t run them anywhere near this high. I’m using 29 watts when I have them at their highest and that still gives me over 100 PAR on my 40b sandbed. I’m running red and white at 15% and the rest 25%.

 

[stoney7713]

Maybe I’m not understanding this correctly but the new power supplies output the same amount of power as the “old” bronze power supplies according to Noopsyche? So it’s just a labeling issue?

FWIW here’s my Kasa strip showing 143 watts when I’ve got my light cranked up to 100% with the bronze power supplies. Would the new power supply not show that?

I don’t run them anywhere near this high. I’m using 29 watts when I have them at their highest and that still gives me over 100 PAR on my 40b sandbed. I’m running red and white at 15% and the rest 25%.

I believe what they are saying is the "light" is 124w, the power supply uses the other 16w, therefore the output on the power supply is rated for the light.

 

[exnisstech]

I believe what they are saying is the "light" is 124w, the power supply uses the other 16w, therefore the output on the power supply is rated for the light.

I think the problem started because the lights were listed as 140watt and the power supply is listed as 126watts. I just visited their website and unless I'm missing it I no longer see the lights output being listed and I'm pretty sure it used to state they were 140 watt