Offical Eco-Bak Thread

I think regular IO mixes at 11dkh. Got me wondering what would happen with a dkh this high while running EB reactor? Would that lead to cyano outbreak???
 
Hey guys, I am looking to start running Bio pellets, but am still in research mode, does anyone know where can I find more info? Also I saw a couple people talking about modding a brs reactor to run Bio pellets. I have an extra one in the basement. Do I meed to do anything to it to use it as a BP reactor?
 
I think regular IO mixes at 11dkh. Got me wondering what would happen with a dkh this high while running EB reactor? Would that lead to cyano outbreak???

Any carbon dosing is said to burn acros if ur alk is above 8 or 9. Cyano is a nutrient problem. It can occur when starting some carbon dosing methods but I think its because of the rich bio film the bacteria puts out of not removed through skimming or mechanical filters such as very fine filter socks/pads

Sent from my Vortex using Tapatalk 2
 
Hey guys, I am looking to start running Bio pellets, but am still in research mode, does anyone know where can I find more info? Also I saw a couple people talking about modding a brs reactor to run Bio pellets. I have an extra one in the basement. Do I meed to do anything to it to use it as a BP reactor?

http://www.3reef.com/forums/warner-marine/official-ecobak-thread-103809.html

[URL="https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/warner-marine/81447-official-ecobak-thread.html"]https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/warner-marine/81447-official-ecobak-thread.html


[/URL]
 
I would do that for sure. The struggle is finding a high quality salt that mixes at a lower level. I was using Brightwells salt which mixes around 7dkh, but left a really strange smell in my mixing container. So I switched to Tropic Marin Pro, which is advertised to mix at 8.5 dkh, but when I tested my first batch it was 10dkh...kinda frustrating

The regular Red Sea Salt is advertised to mix out around 8 dkh. Right now I'm running the Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and it is about 11. I think I'll try the Red Sea that does not have all the additives for coral and see what it does. Unfortunately, I just bought a new 5 gallon pail of the Coral Pro so I'll probably try mixing them for a while to ease into the change.
 
The regular Red Sea Salt is advertised to mix out around 8 dkh. Right now I'm running the Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and it is about 11. I think I'll try the Red Sea that does not have all the additives for coral and see what it does. Unfortunately, I just bought a new 5 gallon pail of the Coral Pro so I'll probably try mixing them for a while to ease into the change.

The biopellets seem to be doing their job. My nitrates are at 2 ppm and the PO4 is at 40 ppb down from around 200 ppb in 4 weeks.
 
Im thinking the regular Red Sea will be my next salt too.

Good to hear your N and P are going down.
 
i use the regular red sea salt for last year and i love it mixes right around the params i like. tested at .00 po4 for new batch have heard some people say some salt mixes contain po4. mixes fast and clear and its made from evaporated sea water.
 
Hey guys, I am looking to start running Bio pellets, but am still in research mode, does anyone know where can I find more info? Also I saw a couple people talking about modding a brs reactor to run Bio pellets. I have an extra one in the basement. Do I meed to do anything to it to use it as a BP reactor?

i use my ecobak in a brs reactor ran off my main return pump. seems to work fine to me there will be some small areas that dont constantly move but given a few minutes all the pellets get circulated. doesnt create any anaerobic areas and thats really all that matters and the pellets get water around them.
 
The regular Red Sea Salt is advertised to mix out around 8 dkh. Right now I'm running the Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and it is about 11. I think I'll try the Red Sea that does not have all the additives for coral and see what it does. Unfortunately, I just bought a new 5 gallon pail of the Coral Pro so I'll probably try mixing them for a while to ease into the change.

Im thinking the regular Red Sea will be my next salt too.

Good to hear your N and P are going down.

For what it's worth I run ecoBAK with the regular RedSea Salt and my dKH was right at about 7.8 the other night when I tested, the calcium seems a tad low right around 350. My nitrates tested right at 0 and I am waiting on my phosphate checker to test phosphates. The hair algae issue I was having is almost eradicated. As far as the BRS reactor with ecoBAK Jon Warner has said you could run ecoBAK in them but he is not a fan of using them for pellet use.
 
Brandon, you will want your calcium to be at least at 420. But be aware if you start bumping your Calcium up, your alk will start to fall.

Typed from my phone, because I have nothing better to do.
 
Last edited:
Brandon, you will want your calcium to be at least at 420. But be aware if you start bumping your Calcium up, your alk will start to fall.

Yeah, I just ordered new Alk regents and a Hanna Calcium colorimeter and once I have those and have solid numbers I will start working on getting my dosing pumps set up and running and may come to you for advice on how to get them set up as I know you run the same pumps. Now I just need to get a phosphate checker. Thanks Chris.
 
For those of you that run the Avast reactors did you buy the reactor pre-assemble or did you buy the kit where you need to put it together? I see a difference of about $30 and they say it takes about 1 hour to put it together. I think I am going to go with the kit, put it together myself, and save some money. Curious what ya'll did?
 
For those of you that run the Avast reactors did you buy the reactor pre-assemble or did you buy the kit where you need to put it together? I see a difference of about $30 and they say it takes about 1 hour to put it together. I think I am going to go with the kit, put it together myself, and save some money. Curious what ya'll did?

I know Lindsey ordered his and put his together, I think he said it took him about 30 minutes. Jay and I ordered them already put together.
 
i did they mod to my brs reactor and it works great now. mod costs like $6 if u have a brs reactor extra or can get one cheap used its a good cheap way. i actually had all parts os it didnt cost me anything extra and i can always take the mod off to convert back to normal reactor. you dont even need the inside container just the top and main canister. holds 500ml and tumbles easy. could hold more since 500ml when turned off only fills it maybe 1/2 way but when u get flow going through it looks mostly full.
 
Sounds good, thank fellas. Still think I'm going to go with one from Mixer because I need to be able to place it in my sump as I have no room for it anywhere else.
 

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