Olaf's 100 Gallon Reef

[OlafsReef]

Hi there, I'm Olaf, I've kept fish most of my life and had reefs in the early 2000's.

I was very active in my local club and the online forums back in the day, but lost contact with my reefing friends over the years. I am hoping that sharing here will help drive my progress and give me some like-minded folks to bounce ideas around with.

Here are two of my tanks from more than a decade ago:

I'm jumping back into the hobby with a 4 foot Innovative Marine 100 gallon NUVO EXT.

 

[fishguy242]

hi,nice reefs,planning sps again?

 

[OlafsReef]

hi,nice reefs,planning sps again?

Thank you! Yes, this tank will be SPS, clams, and a few non-fleshy LPS (euphyllia, goniopora). Probably a little ricordea florida garden as well.

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

Ballin! Hey that looks good. Ty for sharing and welcome back.
D

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Hi there, I'm Olaf, I've kept fish most of my life and had reefs in the early 2000's.

I was very active in my local club and the online forums back in the day, but lost contact with my reefing friends over the years. I am hoping that sharing here will help drive my progress and give me some like-minded folks to bounce ideas around with.

Here are two of my tanks from more than a decade ago:

I'm jumping back into the hobby with a 4 foot Innovative Marine 100 gallon NUVO EXT.

Awesome!!

 

[OlafsReef]

Stand Assembly and Tank Move​

​

Background:​

Six months ago I started planning an Innovative Marine EXT 100... after receiving the tank we ended up moving. Part of our home hunt involved finding a living room to feature the tank. We are hoping this wave-textured tile wall will reflect and the lighting shimmer and make for a contrasting backdrop to the black stand and colorful reef.

Due to moving I already have 6+ months of planning, many purchases, a structural assessment, and 35 pages of notes for this build.

We are finally settled into our new home, so here we go!
​

Stand Assembly:​

The stand took 4.5 hours to assemble due to being absolutely COVERED in metal shavings and there being a good deal of adhesive left behind by the protective plastic covering each piece. Each part had to be thoroughly vacuumed, wiped down, and often cleaned with rubbing alcohol before I could assembly it. The actual mechanical assembly was very easy.


Metal Shavings -

Assembled stand -

Note: I waited for the new APS stand version with side doors and an adjustable height shelf. I am hoping to utilize the side doors to build out my control board and wiring area.

Stand Pros:

• Sleek and attractive
• Highly accessible
• Sturdy
• Light weight
• Fast home delivery
• Waterproof materials
• Fantastic customer service
  

Stand Cons:

• Metal shavings
• Weight focused on 4 exterior legs
• Unstable bottom board
• Stand bottom not water-tight

Overall I am not certain if I would purchase this stand again. It looks great with the tank, but it might have been faster to use wood or 80/20. Then I could avoid cleaning up thousands of metal shaving, ensure the bottom has full contact with the floor, make the floorboard study, and easily seal the interior. This may just be my old reefer bias for a stand that evenly distributes weight and has a safely sealed sump area. Even without mishaps I can't imagine NEVER spilling water inside a stand.

NOTE: During the purchase, delivery, and build process I contacted Innovative Marine a few time and their customer service has been fantastic.

Tank Placement:​

Thanks to two sets of these the tank is in place.

We left the tank a few feet out from the wall to give me room to work during the build.

Next Steps:​

Stabilize and seal inside bottom of stand
Sump selection and sump water test

 

[Mike Kearns]

Looking forward to your build. That sucks about the metal shavings. I didn't have that issue, but yeah I think I still have sticky stuff on my stand from the protective wrap.

 

[caddnima]

Following. I really like the wavy pattern of the wall.

 

[OlafsReef]

Stabilize and Seal Stand​

Stabilize Stand:​

Out of the box the APS stand comes with three perpendicular spars to support the floor board. This allows the stand floor to flex and wobble a considerable amount. To address this issue I contacted Innovative Marine and purchased two more supports. The additional supports can be seen below in white.

To secure the floor board I used 3M VHB type 4941, which is suitable for bonding the closed cell PVC floor board to the anodized aluminium flooring supports.

The floor is now pretty solid and I am conformable placing equipment throughout the surface.

Seal Stand:​

Next I addressed a gap around the floor board that could allow water to get under the stand. For this I used GE 100% Silicone for Plastics as it adheres better to the PVC board than standard GE#1. Its not a perfect solution, but I was a too lazy to seal, prime, and paint the inside or to make a plywood insert. I am hoping this will serve well enough to prevent water from getting under the stand.

Next Steps:​

Sump selection, water test, and padding

 

[OlafsReef]

Sump Selection, Water Testing, and Mat​

Sump Selection:​

I like to run a refugium of macro algae and live rock in my sumps. For this system I want to maximize the refugium volume while still being able to accommodate all back-flow from the display tank when the return pump is off; I don't like to rely on or maintain check valves. To achieve this, the refugium will be the first section in the sump. After calculating the back-flow volume, I settled on the Synergy Reef Systems TS-34. Rick at Synergy Reef did a fantastic job keeping me in the loop with the build and I received the sump a few weeks after my initial order.

Sump Dimensions

• Dimensions: 34″ long x 15″ wide x 15″ high
• Refugium Section-1: 14.5″ x 14.5″ x 11.75″ <– Volume: 9.3 Gallons, approx 10% size of display tank
• Skimmer Section-2: 9.75″ x 14.5″
• Return Pump Section-3: 6.75″ x 14.5″
• Total Water Volume: 30 gallons <- Total sump can hold including back-flow, not running volume
• Skimmer Water Level: 6″ to 10″ adjustable <- Avoids skimmer platform & maximizes back-flow capacity
• 2x 4″ Temp Sock Holders <- I don't run filter socks, but like holders for occasional use

I knew that maximizing the refugium volume would only leave me with 10" of space under the stand, so I pre-negotiated a cabinet or two on the side of the tank with my significant other. Between the remaining space, the shelf inside the stand, and access to a cabinet I should have sufficient space for equipment and controls.

Sump Water Test:​

I filled the sump up in intervals adding a few gallons every couple of hours and monitored for leaks. Once full, I let the sump sit over night to ensure it could handle display back-flow. After checking for leaks, I dropped a Sicce Zero pump into the return section, drained the excess water and then ran tubing back to the drain bulkhead to test water flow through the sump.

Back-flow Max Fill Test

Incremental Fill and Flow Test

Zero leaks, and each sump section flows correctly!

​

Under Sump Mat:​

The last task was to cut a pad to go under the sump. This serves to prevent the sump from sliding around on the stand's PVC floor, reduces noise transfer, and helps support any irregularities in the sump bottom. For this I used a non-slip yoga mat cut to size.

Next Steps:​

Select Flow and Return Pumps

 

[Cwentz758]

Weird I didn’t notice metal shavings with my stand. Hmmm.

looking forward to the build!

 

[marcanthone]

Weird I didn’t notice metal shavings with my stand. Hmmm.

looking forward to the build!

Weird I didn’t notice metal shavings with my stand. Hmmm.

looking forward to the build!

Hi I just started back up with the same tank and stand after a long break.... I’m very happy with mine.

 

[steelythefez]

Following your build closely as my tank will arrive later next month. What sort of backflow volume did you get? Are the vertical supports at the back of the stand adjustable to either side or do they have a set spacing? Trying to see if i could get away with a 20x20 cube sump (24 gallon) installed in the center. Inside dimensions of the stand appear to be 19.3” so i’d need to build a bit of a stand for it and have it rest on the back channel.

 

[OlafsReef]

Following your build closely as my tank will arrive later next month. What sort of backflow volume did you get? Are the vertical supports at the back of the stand adjustable to either side or do they have a set spacing? Trying to see if i could get away with a 20x20 cube sump (24 gallon) installed in the center. Inside dimensions of the stand appear to be 19.3” so i’d need to build a bit of a stand for it and have it rest on the back channel.

What sort of backflow volume did you get?
I did this 7+ months ago and it was based of my setup, I no longer have the figures. But you can estimated the back flow volume by calculating the height difference between the running fill height (guesstimate halfway up the overflow weirs if you aren't sure) to where the return lines would break a siphon, ie did you drill siphon break holes or will it be at the outlet of the loclines. Now that you know how many inches of water you expect to drain, calculate the cubic volume in inches and divide by 231 to get number of gallons. Even easier just search for a Tank Volume Calculator. Next estimate total feet and size of your plumbing and add some extra volume for that.

Are the vertical supports at the back of the stand adjustable to either side or do they have a set spacing?
They can be moved, but I would keep them equidistant from each end and each-other.

Trying to see if i could get away with a 20x20 cube sump (24 gallon) installed in the center.
I wouldn't suggest it. You'll want room in front and behind to run cords and tubing, need room to work around the sump, and you will likely want more horizontal space for equipment.

 

[steelythefez]

What sort of backflow volume did you get?
I did this 7+ months ago and it was based of my setup, I no longer have the figures. But you can estimated the back flow volume by calculating the height difference between the running fill height (guesstimate halfway up the overflow weirs if you aren't sure) to where the return lines would break a siphon, ie did you drill siphon break holes or will it be at the outlet of the loclines. Now that you know how many inches of water you expect to drain, calculate the cubic volume in inches and divide by 231 to get number of gallons. Even easier just search for a Tank Volume Calculator. Next estimate total feet and size of your plumbing and add some extra volume for that.

Are the vertical supports at the back of the stand adjustable to either side or do they have a set spacing?
They can be moved, but I would keep them equidistant from each end and each-other.

Trying to see if i could get away with a 20x20 cube sump (24 gallon) installed in the center.
I wouldn't suggest it. You'll want room in front and behind to run cords and tubing, need room to work around the sump, and you will likely want more horizontal space for equipment.

Thanks for the response and recommendations. I’ll definitely go bigger.

 

[OlafsReef]

Flow and Return Pump​

I had to take eight weeks to work on a few house projects, but am back to the tank now and chugging along.

Return Pump and Turnover Flow:​

I'm an old school Iwaki pump user, but given this tank will be in our living room, I figured it's time to try one of these new whisper quiet DC pumps. For this I chose the Reef Octopus VarioS as it integrates well with the rest of my equipment and has good reviews in terms of reliability. For turnover I am targeting between 5x-8x through my sump and return lines. After sketching out a few plumbing designs and calculating the frictional pressure impact of all the fittings I came up with approximately 10ft of head loss.

Given this information, I chose the VarioS-6 which should pump about 500GPH or 5x turnover through the return lines.

​

In-Tank Bulk Flow:​

In the past I've had acrylic tanks and drilled closed loops to create the bulk of my in tank flow. For this tank I decided to go with some new technology again and chose two of the ever-present EcoTech MP40s. I picked up an additional wet side to make cleaning easier, and some guards from Neat Aquatics to protect live stock and eliminate the sponge covers.

I will likely want additional flow along the back of the aquascape as things grow in, but for now this should do the job. I have a Nero3 on hand as a back up or in case the MP40s and returns aren't enough to eliminate dead spots once the aquascape is in place.

Next Steps:​

RO/DI and Mixing Station

 

[OlafsReef]

Source Water:​

There has been some slowing due to family medical issues, but I am still making solid progress. I'll try to get my backlog of build work posted over the next few weeks.

RO/DI:​

After researching my cities water treatment procedures and reading their water quality reports, I found chlorine to be the primary concern and our overall source water quality to be good. To meet my filtration needs, and handle my desired production rate, I decided on a 4 Stage 150GPD "Water Saver" RO/DI System with dual RO stages and an inline TDS meter from BRS. Unfortunately the unit came with a cracked fitting.

BRS was quick to send me a replacement fitting, which I was eventually able to stop from leaking with the aid of some Teflon tape. Normally I'd use synthetic pipe sealant, but the threads on the canister head were a bit too loose.

Water Source and Drain:​

While searching for a place to install the RO/DI unit, I came across an old drain and some water lines
from a sink that was removed before we purchased our home. This is under a cabinet in our laundry room area adjacent to a large hall closet that I believe can be used to store the RO/DI unit.

New Closet Construction Detour:​

In order to take over half of the hall closet adjacent to the water source, I pitched the idea of building a new coat closet under our stairs to make up for the space lost to my significant other. She agreed that using the old sink hookup made sense and was open to me making a closet under our stairs.

Before:

After:

Drain and Water Lines:​

After a few trips to the hardware store, I cleaned up the old drain, built out a new p-trap and fitted source and drain lines to the old sink plumbing. I also installed a leak sensor and alarm.

Next I used a hole saw, some 3D printed brackets and a few 1/4" RO fittings to run the source and drain lines through the back of the cabinet, underneath our laundry room counter, and into the closet where I intended to mount the RO/DI Unit.

Unit Mounting and Closet Protection;​

After measuring the best place to mount the RO/DI if I decide to add a mixing station in the future, I mounted a painted board to the studs and the unit to the board.

To add additional protection, I caulked above and below the baseboards throughout the closet.

Leak and Pressure Check:​

Lastly, I turned on the feed water to flush the filters and test the system and all fittings for leaks; everything ran smoothly! During the test run I discovered the pressure is sub-optimal for my filters and desired production speed. A minor problem to tackle later.

With this step complete, I now have an appropriate water source!

​

Next Steps:​

Mixing Station?
Solve Pressure Issues

 

[OlafsReef]

Water Mixing Station:​

One of my goals for this build is to decrease barriers for performing maintenance and repeat tasks. One impactful way to do this was to design and build a salt water mixing station that can service tanks and ATO reservoirs throughout my home.

This is a long post, but when starting out I always found myself wishing for a little more detail in peoples' build threads.

Requirements:​

Stand -​

Fit inside 1/2 Hallway closet
Saltwater proof material
Hold 1.5x weight capacity (~250lbs min)

Water Containers -​

Dedicated RO and Salt bins
Food Grade
Hold 15-25% display tank volume each (17 gals min)
Store extra salt, water change gear, and salinity testers

Functionality -​

High pressure internal pumps
Workable height
Handle and detect Spills
Easy transfer Between bins
Outbound hose reaching all tanks
Sediment filter and heating in salt bin
Individually switched electrical and GFCI
Easily disassembled for modification and cleaning
Auto shutoff

Optional Extras:
Auto flush
Optimal PSI
Optical eye auto shutoff (TODO)
Wireless Pump Control

Water Containers:​

I went with two 80lb Gamma Vittles Vaults, which are food grade and hold ~20 gallons each. They have wide mouths for easy pump installation and bin cleaning. I see them used by home-brewers often and the manufacture says they are fine for liquid storage.

Stand:​

For the stand I selected 18" x 48" NSF black epoxy wire shelving. It can hold more than twice the required weight and is resistant to corrosion. I searched out a tray that fits into the shelving and will hold the volume of one full water container. The tray prevents water from getting into the storage shelf below and gives me some safety if either bin leaks. A plastic liner was placed on the bottom storage shelf to make sliding salt buckets in and out easier. After taking some basic measurements, I sketched a rough design and ordered parts from a restaurant supply store and a hydroponics vendor.

Container Plumbing:​

This took me a few iterations. Eventually I settled on a design using internal pumps that can be easily disassembled, modified, and cleaned. For comfortable standing access to valves I went with top mounted bulk-heads and plumbing.

After a trip to the hardware store for 3/4" PVC and ordering some plumbing fittings and python water-change tubing online I was able to get to work.

The initial build went relatively smoothly and I re-learned a good deal about working with plumbing. I went with schedule 80 ball valves and took the time to clean, bevel, and prime each piece. Where applicable, threads were sealed with Great White pipe joint compound.

Pumps and Sediment Filtration:​

After measuring the distance to my tanks, and calculating some head pressures, I settled on a pair of Mag Drive 18 pumps. I attached these to 3/4" braided tubing with barb fittings and unions for easy cleaning and in case I ever need to run the system off of just one pump.

Next I put together a drop-down re-circulation tube for the salt mixing bin. To prevent crud buildup over time, I fixed a 4" filter sock to the bottom of the drop-down tube via a zip tie that slips behind a 90° elbow. This elbow is slip fit so I can change out the sock. I placed a union on the drop-down tube for easy removal and sock change out.

Measurements and RO/DI Hook-Up:​

The next step was to install a float valve into the RO/DI container to save my floors and trigger the RO/DI unit's auto shutoff system. After that I added gallon marking to the bins. I did this second task by suspending a light inside the bin, incrementally adding water with a measuring bucket, and marking the lines with a level and permanent marker. Not the cleanest labeling, but given the low cost of the bins it was worth the aesthetic trade-off. I then placed a ball valve in-line with the RO output line the so I can easily disconnect the container from the RO system without having to remove the float valve.

Electrical and Wire Management:​

I ran a heavy-duty extension cord through the wall into the closet, hooked up an in-line GFCI, mounted an individually switched power bar, and secured everything with drip paths in mind using Velcro ties. During this step I also mounted a heater inside the salt mixing bin using a heater holder from Matt at Octo Aquatics.

Pressure and Auto-Flush:​

As noted in my previous post, my water pressure to the RO/DI unit was only 40 PSI. To combat this, I installed an Aqatec booster pump, and while at it, added an auto flush valve and shut-off solenoid. I adjusted the pressure up to 80PSI and saw a drastic boost in my production speed; currently making 20 gallons in about 2hrs and 15mins.

​

Mixing Station Complete:​

Here is the final product! So far I have made about 250 gallons of saltwater and I am very happy with how things turned out. It is easy to mix and later heat salt water, and fast to transfer either salt or RO water to tanks and reservoirs on either floor of my home.

​

​

Enhancements:​

Here are a few small things I have done since the initial build. I added a small power-head to the bottom of the salt bin facing upward to speed up initial mixing; this allows me to dump salt in faster. For added safety, I placed a Watchdog leak sensor under the stand. I labeled everything in case a tanker sitter or my significant other needs to do anything while I am away. Lastly, I hooked the two pumps up to WIFI outlets so I can switch them on and off tank-side without walking back to the station.

Next Steps:​

Live rock \ Sand
Build approach

 

[youcallmenny1]

Meticulous detail! Any update?

 

[OlafsReef]

Meticulous detail! Any update?

Thanks! I've made a bit more progress, but haven't updated this in a bit due to a hard focus on prepping tanks for a vacation. Which went well overall.

Rock has been maturing since last October, and have coral QT and grow-out tanks up and running for a bout 6 months now. Main tank will continue once I can get auto water change systems routed throughout the house. I'll see about getting this updated a bit in the mean time.

20Gallon Cube (Growout):

Coral QT Tank:

Rocks Maturing: