Open stand build

[Llyod276]

Anybody build an "open" WOOD stand?
I need a stand that has an open front. The display tank is 190g and the sump is 125. This will be a modular build to accommodate 2x 35g ta k on either side with the communal sump underneath. Question is can I have a 5+ foot open span on the front? The back and sides im not worried about as I can put in posts/pillars. But the front opening i need to leave open.

Cause failing that I have to build the stand around the sump and thats a pain in the butt. Im trying to avoid this.
The modular element comes by carriage bolting the 35s on each side of the 190.
Any and all input appreciated.

 

[ShanePike]

You can find a great stand plan and calculator for what size wood you need here:

DIY Stands Template and Calculator - Reef Central Online Community

DIY Stands Template and Calculator Do It Yourself

www.reefcentral.com

 

[Llyod276]

Yeah i cant find the actual calculator. Shows a picture but nowhere to plug in numbers or anything like it.

 

[ShanePike]

Yeah, sorry. He gives the formulas, but you have to do the actual calculations yourself.

 

[Llyod276]

Thanks bud, but am too stoopid.

 

[ShanePike]

Thanks bud, but am too stoopid.

Hahahaha. I can help. What is the footprint of your tank in inches (i.e., width and depth, but not height)?

 

[Llyod276]

74"x36" im gussing here. The tank on top is actually smaller size wise (LxW) but the sump is a standard 125. So 72x 18 i believe.

 

[ShanePike]

Having the tank on top smaller than the stand will complicate things, because this stand design is for a tank to sit right on the edges. @RocketEngineer would have to comment on that and also check my math below, but let's use the 74x36 footprint and assume you want your stand to be 34" tall.

Here are his instructions with those numbers plugged in:

Ok, now to the cut list:
First off: The calculations below are based off of a stand that is "74" inches wide X "36" inches front-to-back X "34" inches high.

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = 74"
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.

(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = 36"-3" = 33"
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = 34"-2" = 32"
These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.

(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = 34"-7" = 27"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = 34"-9" = 25"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = 34"-10.75" = 23.25"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.

(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = 74"
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.

(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = 36"-3" = 33"

The answer to your main question is in that first section. It sounds like you could do a full open front if you used 2x8s for the upper rails.

 

[Fish Fan]

I think what you're asking is, can I have a stand that's 5 feet or more in length, and not have a center, vertical brace.

The answer to that is yes; use 2x8's.

Rocket Engineer is an active member of this forum who will likely help you here if needed. Here's a post he made on the old Reef Central, many, many people have used his stand design to build stands of all sizes:

DIY Stands Template and Calculator - Reef Central Online Community

DIY Stands Template and Calculator Do It Yourself

www.reefcentral.com

From the above post he writes:
"(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended."

So 2x8's should work for your length and tank volume.

Good luck!

 

[Llyod276]

Ok let me clarify: the display tank is 190g 60x24x30.
The sump is 125g 72x18x24ish. So while the foot print for the display tank is shoter and fatter the actual sump underneath is longer, but skinnier. The 6' open stand is so i can get the sump in and out. Not living in this domicile forever so it needs to be broken down at some point and relocated. Also I plan on putting 3/4 plywood on the back, top and sides of the stand.

 

[Llyod276]

I will have to reach out to @RocketEngineer ...
I wonder if those plans allow for modular additions and also carriage bolts for primary fasteners it would behoove me to not have to rebuild but rather take down in sections for future relocation.

 

[Fish Fan]

I will have to reach out to @RocketEngineer ...
I wonder if those plans allow for modular additions and also carriage bolts for primary fasteners it would behoove me to not have to rebuild but rather take down in sections for future relocation.

He’d be the one to ask :)

 

[RocketEngineer]

is this possible? Yes. Recommended…not so much.

Now, there are options. The best option would be removable “center” supports. If this was my setup, I would do something similar to my 75g stand.

Take note that the doors aren’t full width of the front because there are legs front and back supporting the tank above.

I’m envisioning something like this will work for you.

 

[Llyod276]

is this possible? Yes. Recommended…not so m...

Bruh, the sump is longer than the display. And like i need to be able to maneuver this giant butt tank underneath. I need the 125 though, for the 35s on either side...
So are carriage bolts acceptable fastners or am i doomed to screw and glue??

 

[RocketEngineer]

is this possible? Yes. Recommended…not so m...

Bruh, the sump is longer than the display. And like i need to be able to maneuver this giant butt tank underneath. I need the 125 though, for the 35s on either side...
So are carriage bolts acceptable fastners or am i doomed to screw and glue??

I get what you are going for. Screws but no glue.

Pictures this: the front of the stand is made up of panels for easy removal and gives you wide open access to the sump. The stand is say 25” front to back. The sump fits between the uprights. Now, there are 8 uprights. 4 at each corner. 2 front, 2 back in the middle. The ones in the middle are positioned to sit close to the corners of the display. The ones in back are glued and screwed but the two in front are just kept in place with screws. They may be a snug fit but by pulling the screws out, you can then slide the sump out of the stand.

Make sense?

 

[Llyod276]

Nah its 36 front to back.

 

[Llyod276]

So no carraige bolts???

 

[UncommonSense]

Nah its 36 front to back.

Alternatively; what about a deeper sump that’s only 4-5ft long? If you have that much internal space… why not use it?

@RocketEngineer beat me to the removable center leg idea; I’ll be using this on a 5ft tank with a 4ft sump!

 

[Llyod276]

Because i paid 100$ for a 125 tank???

 

[UncommonSense]

Because i paid 100$ for a 125 tank???

Good snag! Well, you can still get it out of the stand you propose with removable legs!

Is the 125 a glass, or acrylic tank?