Overflow Boxes

PotatoPig

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I’m setting up a new reef tank - my last I used a siphon overflow, for a few reasons this time around I want to go with a drilled overflow.

The tank is 75 gallons, but I plan to run the system on a relatively low turnover through the sump - somewhere around 200gph.

First time using one of these so have some questions:

I’d like to go with a Durso overflow - can this be used with just an emergency drain? Most diagrams I see show it with a permanent siphon with the durso as a secondary drain.

Can most overflow products be converted to a Durso?

Does anyone have any recommendations for products?

Thank you.
 
A Durso standpipe is just that; a standpipe set up for tanks with only one drain bulkhead, to attempt to quiet them…

image.jpg


This is to say, durso standpipe(s) can be put on a tank with any number of drains… the question would be, why?

This is not what I would consider to be a easy, maintenance free way of keeping drain(s) silent, and drain methods have come a long way since these were popular…


I’d recommend looking up Herbie (dual) and BeanAnimal (triple) drain configurations as a starting place!
 
I’m setting up a new reef tank - my last I used a siphon overflow, for a few reasons this time around I want to go with a drilled overflow.

The tank is 75 gallons, but I plan to run the system on a relatively low turnover through the sump - somewhere around 200gph.

First time using one of these so have some questions:

I’d like to go with a Durso overflow - can this be used with just an emergency drain? Most diagrams I see show it with a permanent siphon with the durso as a secondary drain.

Can most overflow products be converted to a Durso?

Does anyone have any recommendations for products?

Thank you.
Durso, Herbie and all the other variations on the theme were intended for one main purpose....to run SUPER HIGH FLOWS through the limited drain and return holes in a common Reef Ready aquarium.

The reason anyone ever wanted to do that in the first place is because powerheads like we have now (that use propellors; thanks Tunze!!!) didn't exist yet. So people used their return pumps....but flow that way was obviously VERY limited by the drain capacity....and the drains were VERY noisy when run like this.

YOU are not doing anything like that with your system.

As you stated you are aiming for around 200 GPH, which a 1" gravity drain will handle without issue, and it will do so silently.

Not even a Durso should be required, let alone the upgrades from that.

How are you planing to set up the overflow, or will you be buying a predrilled tank that's already set up with drains?
An open standpipe is a bit sketchy, FYI, so let us know....something like this around it is MUCH more ideal:
1790051569035.png
 
Durso, Herbie and all the other variations on the theme were intended for one main purpose....to run SUPER HIGH FLOWS through the limited drain and return holes in a common Reef Ready aquarium.

The reason anyone ever wanted to do that in the first place is because powerheads like we have now (that use propellors; thanks Tunze!!!) didn't exist yet. So people used their return pumps....but flow that way was obviously VERY limited by the drain capacity....and the drains were VERY noisy when run like this.

YOU are not doing anything like that with your system.

As you stated you are aiming for around 200 GPH, which a 1" gravity drain will handle without issue, and it will do so silently.

Not even a Durso should be required, let alone the upgrades from that.

How are you planing to set up the overflow, or will you be buying a predrilled tank that's already set up with drains?
An open standpipe is a bit sketchy, FYI, so let us know....something like this around it is MUCH more ideal:
1790051569035.png

Ah. This is important context I didn’t realize! From looking at the systems it seemed the Durso was about keeping the system silent by submerging the intake without needing a full siphon. I guess this is a misconception.

I’m planning on an overflow box drilled in the side of the tank (Marineland 75 gallon). The drilling is going to be DIY.

Something like this:

https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/l...1HfqNr73O3y4WHQp1WqwUtNlliSGqkeoaAi_4EALw_wcB

So seems a Herbie is the way to go with this?
 
Last edited:
So seems a Herbie is the way to go with this?
Yup!

edit: I never checked the link… this overflow is actually intended to be run with a Herbie drain configuration, and associated gate valve!
 
Last edited:
Ah. This is important context I didn’t realize! From looking at the systems it seemed the Durso was about keeping the system silent by submerging the intake without needing a full siphon. I guess this is a misconception.
Well, yeah. The drain was noisy from trying to run so much flow (ie more than 50% of the 600 GPH rating that most have), so Durso was an attempt to facilitate that added flow by reducing or eliminating the drain noise that came with it. I'm sure you also read mixed reviews on how often it accomplished that mission. 🫠 It depended a lot on how hard the drains were actually being pushed in any given tank...I would say they didn't work that well for the ones that needed the most help....but probably worked better on the lighter flows.

I’m planning on an overflow box drilled in the side of the tank (Marineland 75 gallon). The drilling is going to be DIY.

Something like this:

https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/l...1HfqNr73O3y4WHQp1WqwUtNlliSGqkeoaAi_4EALw_wcB

So seems a Herbie is the way to go with this?
Yeah, if they put two pipes in it, you can do it that way.

I guess they intend it either way:
https://www.fijicube.com/products/l...d#:~:text=PVC pipe included,on selected model)
  • PVC pipe included for emergency drain installation
  • Able to achieve Herbie style or Bean Animal style overflow (bean animal overflow on selected model)

If you end up with that unit, I guess I'd run pipe #2 as a dry backup. More plumbing that is a little pointless at the flow rates you're aiming for. Pipe #1 should easily handle 200 GPH and be able to do it silently. There's a simple mod called the "Maggie Muffler" you could consider if it does make a little noise at the top.

But...

Better than two pipes in back would be two separate drain outlets in the tank...even if each one only had a single drain pipe in back. Since you're DIYing the tank, why not two?

The weir teeth are the most probable location of blockage or flow reduction, not the pipes behind it – that's what the teeth are there for. Some folks take additional measures to screen the drain pipes off depending on their livestock. Plastic gutter guard was popular to use for this but doesn't seem to be available much these days. Be creative.

Two drains would mean you would be sending just 100 GPH to each one. Even with one drain compromised, the other would still only have to carry 200 GPH. You might be able to spec a smaller drain unit....or build one if they don't come that small. Two 400 GPH units would be overkill for sure. (Tho wouldn't hurt if you can't find or make smaller.)

TIP: Prevent the weir from being lighted and growing algae. Algae itself can be a blockage/restriction issue, but it naturally attracts snails that can also be an issue. "Two birds with one stone."

LAST: If I were still actually worried about the drain pipes themselves becoming blocked for some reason in spite of the screens/teeth, I think I would go with a larger single drain pipe vs multiple smaller ones...maybe 1.5" or 2" diameter instead of 1"....the reason being, a larger pipe can simply pass things that would block or restrict a 1" pipe.
 
I'm using this in my refugium tank:

It does require drilling though, but the tools to do it come with the box. You just need a driller and some patience. Best to drill half way trough and then from the other side - aligning the drilling template piece just by ones sight is enough - I watched a guy do it.
That being said, I drilled for my own setup only from 1 side, starting inside and keeping fingers crossed. Not that hard actually after watching a couple of youtube videos.

However, If I was to do it again I would never use it. It's very difficult to make it silent and the flow rate is terrible.
For my main tank I simulated the setup with real glass. Had it done by a guy and the cost was more less the same of buying the piece.

If you want to do it yourself, I'd recommend buying 2 glass sheets as for a traditional internal chimney, and drill the holes on the side near the bottom of the tank. And glue the glass yourself as well.

1790163298405.png
 
I'm using this in my refugium tank:

It does require drilling though, but the tools to do it come with the box. You just need a driller and some patience. Best to drill half way trough and then from the other side - aligning the drilling template piece just by ones sight is enough - I watched a guy do it.
That being said, I drilled for my own setup only from 1 side, starting inside and keeping fingers crossed. Not that hard actually after watching a couple of youtube videos.

However, If I was to do it again I would never use it. It's very difficult to make it silent and the flow rate is terrible.
For my main tank I simulated the setup with real glass. Had it done by a guy and the cost was more less the same of buying the piece.

If you want to do it yourself, I'd recommend buying 2 glass sheets as for a traditional internal chimney, and drill the holes on the side near the bottom of the tank. And glue the glass yourself as well.

1790163298405.png
did you have a gate valve on your main drain? how many gph were you running through it?
 
did you have a gate valve on your main drain? how many gph were you running through it?
I piped it this way:
this box is set for 25mm pipes
2 out of 3 of the 25mm pipes I converted to 32mm, combined into 1 and the put a valve on them. The 3rd pipe remained 25mm for low volume overflow. The overflow needs to run nearly to the top of the ouside box to not hear constant water streaming noises. I got out of it somewhat of 40% of the capacity of Jebao 10000 pump directly under the tank (I haven't measured the gallons).
Anything more I considered not safe due to overflow risk. The intake on the inside is also low volume, with water piling up slowly and then either overflowing over the top of the inside box or out of the tank (I have added a custom cover inside as fish tended to jump over the inside box into the flow).

Although the box has 3 pipes, it's designed for only 2 holes to be drilled - each of them only 25mm after mounting - that's the bottleneck
 

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