Peach02’s 33G Reef

[Peach02]

Again. Sorry for what you and fish are going thru. I know how difficult it is and I hated it each time.
Like me it's a lesson we are learn, and sometimes like me takes a 2nd lesson to really stick to do proper QT next time.

That red spot on your yellow Tang, I've had that happened to a fish after disease and death.
It's most likely not the heater (since water dissipates heat very quickly).
It's most likely internal organ damage that show ups for whatever reason (disease or treatment).

As far as Fallow Period to restore your DT to safety....Read this.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fallow-periods-going-fishless.190324/

okay thanks for the extra information. I don't feel safe taking all the fish out of the DT due to the yellow dying in quarantine. I think what ill do in future is cycle a marine pure cube and put it in with the fish for some extra filtration each time I quarantine. As for future fish I think ill put them in the quarantine tank, observe them for a little and treat if needed.

 

[WallyB]

okay thanks for the extra information. I don't feel safe taking all the fish out of the DT due to the yellow dying in quarantine. I think what ill do in future is cycle a marine pure cube and put it in with the fish for some extra filtration each time I quarantine. As for future fish I think ill put them in the quarantine tank, observe them for a little and treat if needed.

Yes, bringing over a small piece of live rock. Mature Matrix, or a Marine Pure Cube is ideal to start the QT Tank Cycle.
It can be anything that's already been in your tank and accumulated bacteria. Even old bag or carbon, a dirty piece of floss.
You can use a bit of Stability but it's not necessary (with the Live bacterial loaded aged rock, etc).
I actually killed a beautiful Wrasse in QT, since I added a live rock, then added Stability, but since I was going away for a day did triple stability dose. BIG MISTAKE. It caused a Bacterial Bloom (super Cycle), and that suck all the oxygen out of the Tank. (Best remedy it to add a air stone, to counter act the Lack of Oxygen...But I was too late).

 

[Peach02]

Yes, bringing over a small piece of live rock. Mature Matrix, or a Marine Pure Cube is ideal to start the QT Tank Cycle.
It can be anything that's already been in your tank and accumulated bacteria. Even old bag or carbon, a dirty piece of floss.
You can use a bit of Stability but it's not necessary (with the Live bacterial loaded aged rock, etc).
I actually killed a beautiful Wrasse in QT, since I added a live rock, then added Stability, but since I was going away for a day did triple stability dose. BIG MISTAKE. It caused a Bacterial Bloom (super Cycle), and that suck all the oxygen out of the Tank. (Best remedy it to add a air stone, to counter act the Lack of Oxygen...But I was too late).

sorry to hear that and thanks for the caution for adding too much stability

 

[WallyB]

Glued down the digi and the orange ricordia fell over so I fixed that. Also decided to give top down shots a try

I missed this Photo.....

First it's a Great PHoto. One of your best PHoto's that I have noticed on your thread. (Lighting, Focus, colors, Centering)
I also like it because I love ricordia's

I was inspried years ago, by a Fish store. He had a tank with Nothing but rich on the bottom level.
Gobs and Gobs or ricordia's overlapping each other. Something I've never seen even till now.
Looked spectacular, and I always hoped to have something similar.

I do have a Ricordia Garden. The Original Willy Wonka is still around, but I got pinkys like your, blues, and they vanished.

My Wonka Ric has done well, faded, come back, split x6, some vanished, two cam back, and faded, etc......

 

[Peach02]

Thanks mate its the second favroute photo I have of my tank after this one.

I'm hoping to get a filter for my camera to take some better photos and grow out my current coral and get some more and hopefully get some good photos before I upgrade

 

[WallyB]

Thanks mate its the second favroute photo I have of my tank after this one.

I'm hoping to get a filter for my camera to take some better photos and grow out my current coral and get some more and hopefully get some good photos before I upgrade

That is a really great shot.
Too bad you missed the Mandarin Photo Contest. You could have entered.
Check out the R2R POTM (Photo of the Month) contest. Different theme each month.
All photo's welcome. 10-20 get selected for voting (by members) each month.
I made voting last month (Was some other fish Anthias).... Lost in voting. Only 1 winner, but even to come in top 10, or top 5 is rewarding.

This Mandarin photo would certainly make the Voting cut, and you would have gotten good voting numbers.

 

[Peach02]

That is a really great shot.
Too bad you missed the Mandarin Photo Contest. You could have entered.
Check out the R2R POTM (Photo of the Month) contest. Different theme each month.
All photo's welcome. 10-20 get selected for voting (by members) each month.
I made voting last month (Was some other fish Anthias).... Lost in voting. Only 1 winner, but even to come in top 10, or top 5 is rewarding.

This Mandarin photo would certainly make the Voting cut, and you would have gotten good voting numbers.

Dang I didn't see that one, hopefully when I stock my tank up some more I can enter some

 

[Peach02]

Update on the two clownfish in Quarantine
One is looking better than ever the other is looking very pale and has lost its cloudiness but has a second wave of smaller dots
I'm doing a second course of trisuplhate since it seemed to help them and hopefully continues to do so. They are not eating much however which is concerning

as for future plans for the tank
im tossing up between a seneye for the par monitoring and setting up a saltwater mixing tank also want to get a iPhone filter as @WallyB said I could have a shot with photo of the month contests and I want to be able to take better photos for my build thread etc in general

I need to glue the current corals down

Im going to see if turning the light up helps the corals grow since its mounted quite high

hoping to add the following corals and fish
- orange benching hammer
- golden torch (they are a lot cheaper in Aus than America hehe )
- the ricordia's back and a blue Ric
- a starry blenny + coral goby and maybe another wrasse (lineatus or four line)
- a doughnut coral
- maybe a sun coral

 

[WallyB]

Update on the two clownfish in Quarantine
One is looking better than ever the other is looking very pale and has lost its cloudiness but has a second wave of smaller dots
I'm doing a second course of trisuplhate since it seemed to help them and hopefully continues to do so. They are not eating much however which is concerning

as for future plans for the tank
im tossing up between a seneye for the par monitoring and setting up a saltwater mixing tank also want to get a iPhone filter as @WallyB said I could have a shot with photo of the month contests and I want to be able to take better photos for my build thread etc in general

I need to glue the current corals down

Im going to see if turning the light up helps the corals grow since its mounted quite high

hoping to add the following corals and fish
- orange benching hammer
- golden torch (they are a lot cheaper in Aus than America hehe )
- the ricordia's back and a blue Ric
- a starry blenny + coral goby and maybe another wrasse (lineatus or four line)
- a doughnut coral
- maybe a sun coral

Hope the clowns get better and make full recovery.

Good luck with your future plans.

I looked up what features Seneye has these days. I've heard good things about the product.

These features I got of off google.

seneye Reef monitors:

- Temperature - constantly monitors water temperature, so you can get an alert if your heater breaks or your chiller fails
- Free Ammonia - monitors the highly toxic free ammonia (NH3) at very low levels, so you can stop your fish from dying from Ammonia poisoning
- pH - the seneye monitors pH in your aquarium or pond water between 6.4 and 9. This range is ideal for most aquatic ife and by focusing on this range increased accuracy has be achieved
- Water Level - readings are only taken when the seneye device is in water, no false readings
- LUX - monitors ambient LUX and can be used to take direct LUX readings, understand how your light degrade over time
- Kelvin - understand where on the kelvin range your lights are and how light can change over time
- PAR - monitor the Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR), understand if you have the correct quantity and quality of light for your corals or plants

One month seneye slide included - monthly slide replacements needed

Some nice to have features and pretty good price for all that.

I'll throw out some alternatives if you want to spend your money a bit differently and get some more value.

Temp is nice, however your can get a much cheaper solution with one of these. I buy like 10 of these and use them for all kind of purposes, like mixing water, One in Qt, One in sump, one in DT, one for mixing station, and even for checking if Fridge if it's set for safe food storage, car Airconditioning check, etc

US $4.33 5% OFF|Digital LCD Screen Sensor Thermometer Water Monitor Wired Aquarium Fish Tank Temp Meter Electronic Temperature Measurement Black|Temperature Control Products| | - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

I've seen them go on Sale for like $2 each (Free shipping)

PH is really nice to have, and that's a good price value, not much choice for cheaper alternative.
Wonder how often you need to calibrate to keep accurate, and how long the Probe lasts. Most last about a year and need replacement (Just the probe), and prices vary for Probe replacement part.

Ammonia is something that you'll never see after you tank is cycled and stable. Might be useful if you constantly were starting up QT tanks.

Water Level. Not sure how it does that, but your top up should have auto sense, and overfill alarm. Best to control level with what fills up the tank.

Lux is kind of useless, and more used for Photography. PAR can be converter to lux with a calculator once you know the spectrum.

Kelvin. Not sure what value it has, but LED lights these days give you that when you set them.

PAR. That's probably the Best feature, after PH. Useful to know (in the past) when your T5', or MH bulbs need changing. With LED's you probably use it once. To know/tune your lighting and where to place corals. Once you map your tank PARS out, you'll never read PARS till you change things.

The monthly disks is something I personaly don't like. Maybe they are cheap, and I hope when disk run out, the other features continue to work.

My suggestion for the next purchase you make is a Salinity Meter. I used a Refractormeter for years, and they are great, but recently I got a PINPOINT Salinity Probe. I love it. I move it around to check tanks, and it super when mixing up salt to make the salt perfectly and easily.

This is the one I got.

PINPOINT® Salinity Monitor

The PINPOINT® Salinity Monitor will accurately and immediately measure the amount of salt in any marine or freshwater system. The reading is fully temperature compensated, which is difficult or impossible with nearly any commercial hydrometer. PINPOINT® Salinity Calibration Fluid 53.0 MS =...

americanmarineusa.com

I'm not saying the Senye is not worth buying. I certainly would have enjoyed one when I started reefing.

 

[fl3xlinton]

Love the tank! I wish I could keep fire fish with my clowns!

 

[WallyB]

hoping to add the following corals and fish
- orange benching hammer
- golden torch (they are a lot cheaper in Aus than America hehe )
- the ricordia's back and a blue Ric
- a starry blenny + coral goby and maybe another wrasse (lineatus or four line)
- a doughnut coral
- maybe a sun coral

Your certainly got my Vote on the Hammer, Torch and Riordia''s.
Sun coral is a lot of work since you need to feed it, or it dies.

 

[Peach02]

@WallyB thanks for the comparisons on the seneye, I’m mainly getting it for par and I’ll occasionally use it to monitor pH, I believe the slides are $30 for three months and I’m with you on this, I don’t like the system of a subscription.
I’ve got a digital thermometer aswell
I’m probably not going to go with a sun coral but hoping to find somthing I can put in a very low light area.
I would get a salinity meter but since I’ve only got two tanks I don’t feel like I can justify the cost
Next purchase will be a saltwater mixing setup, then coral pro salt water changes which hopefully helps coral growth
Thanks @fl3xlinton

 

[WallyB]

Scans like low light and wonderful selection.

 

[Peach02]

Scans like low light and wonderful selection.

do you mean acans? if so do they need spot feeding and if so would they cope with a shrimp stealing some food?

 

[WallyB]

do you mean acans? if so do they need spot feeding and if so would they cope with a shrimp stealing some food?

Lol. Bad phone typo. Yes I said Acans.

They are tricky but better than sun corals.

I personally have never managed to keep Acans. They are beautiful like ric's but many more colors/patterns. Some people have the light/water that they like and say they are easy to keep.

If you like easy/low-light mushrooms look for some hard to find beauties. I posted a photo of my "Golden Citrius Shroom". Just recently on my thread. It's quite amazing and I have two. Waiting for a split.

 

[Peach02]

Lol. Bad phone typo. Yes I said Acans.

They are tricky but better than sun corals.

I personally have never managed to keep Acans. They are beautiful like ric's but many more colors/patterns. Some people have the light/water that they like and say they are easy to keep.

If you like easy/low-light mushrooms look for some hard to find beauties. I posted a photo of my "Golden Citrius Shroom". Just recently on my thread. It's quite amazing and I have two. Waiting for a split.

I might give them a shot once I measure par, what should I am for them?

Also I glued all my coral down last night and swapped the front bridging rock out for another with more surface area that looks better. Ill try and do a update on the weekend.

 

[WallyB]

It's low par. My lps tank is about 100 at top of rock level. The Shroom is at bottom so probably like 40.

Another low light option is get into Zoa Gardens. I have some but my Green Button Palys keep growing over any Garden I start.

I might give them a shot once I measure par, what should I am for them?

Also I glued all my coral down last night and swapped the front bridging rock out for another with more surface area that looks better. Ill try and do a update on the weekend.

 

[Peach02]

It's low par. My lps tank is about 100 at top of rock level. The Shroom is at bottom so probably like 40.

Another low light option is get into Zoa Gardens. I have some but my Green Button Palys keep growing over any Garden I start.

Im already thinking of a zoa garden on the bridges and the base of one of the rocks, so an acan or mushroom would be okay with like 50 par?

 

[WallyB]

Im already thinking of a zoa garden on the bridges and the base of one of the rocks, so an acan or mushroom would be okay with like 50 par?

You are asking the wrong person for Advice on Acans. I have killed all the Acan's I bought.

There is one piece of Advice I will give you. When you seek your Holy Grail of Advice in this complex and multi-variable hobby.....or when it drops on your lap from someone posting a reply . Do your own homework, and research from quality authorities with proven track records, and most importantly long term success history.

I find it a bit discouraging that some folks just throw out advice, just to look like they know something. I respect their eagerness to help, but it doesn't away end up being help. Quite the opposite some times.

Even then when you get good advice, there are many factors in your personal setup that may not result in the same success.

Most people can buy/setup a tank. Anyone can buy quality corals and take a photo of them within a week or a couple of months. However not everyone has those corals a year or more later, and even less folks have those corals grow, keep colors, and even multiply. I've been around long enough to see even the best reefers end their reefing due to a hobby ending failure over long term. Some try, try and try again (like me).

Thus in my case, and most likely in your case, some (small but many) failures along the way is where we get our training, experience to hone our skills and opportunity to get better each time. I think it's necessary to experience failures (all kinds) to avoid a more serious, large scale failure at a later date. I'm not saying plan for failures, just expect them, and accept them.

To me besides my lack of Stability (due to constant tinkering with my tank), I feel that after 20+ years running a tank, I'm beyond a novice. I am an Expert on all failures (most of them).

I feel that one of the skills that is most difficult to master, and truly differentiates, and graduates a (Reefer) to a (A Master Reefer or GURU), is knowing Coral Placement. There are just too many varieties, and even within a species , minute different factors for success.

Those experts can sense their corals talking, waving, smiling and crying. No science, just by feel/instinct. I'm like that with some LPS/Euphyila. When it comes to SPS, they can have sirens blasting, strobes flashing and I'm deaf and blind.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So to answer your Acan question, my limited experience is they are super finicky. I had two and one would open up like a beautiful peacock tail, the other scrunch up like a ball.
A slight movement, to a higher/lower place (lighting) would change things. Same with position adjustments for flow. When you play with placement, give the Acan (or any coral time to acclimate). I would say 1 month miniumum, unless you see something seriously wrong. Worst thing is to move every other day and look for positive reaction (you rarely will).

Eventually I did find placement that made both happy. Of course I found other ways of killing them. I think the killer was a few falls as I move them around (and didn't glue them down). If they fall face down, on sharp rocks, that leads to tissue damage, and that can lead to infections, etc.

Of course as you say feeding Acans is another factor for success. In those past days, I would both spread feed, and then with a syringe (two little fishies is the best) target feed, powdered coral foods. That got all my corals crazy drunk happy. The downside to feeding corals in a tank is it will slowly, but evenntually lead to other problems like algae and propagation of unwanted pests like Aptasia, or Colonial Hydriods.

As far as Mushrooms. They will grow anywhere, in all lighting. They acclimate. But best to always start in low light, medium flow. Too low flow and they get just too big.

Look at my LPS/mixed tank photo. Mushrooms on bottom, middle, and Top.
Some of those mushroom barely get light. Years ago, I had MH lighting and they grew like crazy at the Top (so much that I had to prune and throw them out). Funny thing is those hairy mushrooms I used to throw out. I still have a garden of them on my right top rocks. Everytime they multiply too much, I cut and trade them at Local fish store for Credit. Get about $30-50 each. Man if I only kept those I threw out.

Zoas? I know nothing. Tried so many, and they are a mystery to me. Some do good, and others not. I think one factor is you need a semi-dirty nutrient rich tank (which is also true for Mushrooms/Acans).

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the best. Keep learning, and have fun.

Sorry for the Long, Blah-Blah reply. That's just me.

 

[Peach02]

You are asking the wrong person for Advice on Acans. I have killed all the Acan's I bought.

There is one piece of Advice I will give you. When you seek your Holy Grail of Advice in this complex and multi-variable hobby.....or when it drops on your lap from someone posting a reply . Do your own homework, and research from quality authorities with proven track records, and most importantly long term success history.

I find it a bit discouraging that some folks just throw out advice, just to look like they know something. I respect their eagerness to help, but it doesn't away end up being help. Quite the opposite some times.

Even then when you get good advice, there are many factors in your personal setup that may not result in the same success.

Most people can buy/setup a tank. Anyone can buy quality corals and take a photo of them within a week or a couple of months. However not everyone has those corals a year or more later, and even less folks have those corals grow, keep colors, and even multiply. I've been around long enough to see even the best reefers end their reefing due to a hobby ending failure over long term. Some try, try and try again (like me).

Thus in my case, and most likely in your case, some (small but many) failures along the way is where we get our training, experience to hone our skills and opportunity to get better each time. I think it's necessary to experience failures (all kinds) to avoid a more serious, large scale failure at a later date. I'm not saying plan for failures, just expect them, and accept them.

To me besides my lack of Stability (due to constant tinkering with my tank), I feel that after 20+ years running a tank, I'm beyond a novice. I am an Expert on all failures (most of them).

I feel that one of the skills that is most difficult to master, and truly differentiates, and graduates a (Reefer) to a (A Master Reefer or GURU), is knowing Coral Placement. There are just too many varieties, and even within a species , minute different factors for success.

Those experts can sense their corals talking, waving, smiling and crying. No science, just by feel/instinct. I'm like that with some LPS/Euphyila. When it comes to SPS, they can have sirens blasting, strobes flashing and I'm deaf and blind.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So to answer your Acan question, my limited experience is they are super finicky. I had two and one would open up like a beautiful peacock tail, the other scrunch up like a ball.
A slight movement, to a higher/lower place (lighting) would change things. Same with position adjustments for flow. When you play with placement, give the Acan (or any coral time to acclimate). I would say 1 month miniumum, unless you see something seriously wrong. Worst thing is to move every other day and look for positive reaction (you rarely will).

Eventually I did find placement that made both happy. Of course I found other ways of killing them. I think the killer was a few falls as I move them around (and didn't glue them down). If they fall face down, on sharp rocks, that leads to tissue damage, and that can lead to infections, etc.

Of course as you say feeding Acans is another factor for success. In those past days, I would both spread feed, and then with a syringe (two little fishies is the best) target feed, powdered coral foods. That got all my corals crazy drunk happy. The downside to feeding corals in a tank is it will slowly, but evenntually lead to other problems like algae and propagation of unwanted pests like Aptasia, or Colonial Hydriods.

As far as Mushrooms. They will grow anywhere, in all lighting. They acclimate. But best to always start in low light, medium flow. Too low flow and they get just too big.

Look at my LPS/mixed tank photo. Mushrooms on bottom, middle, and Top.
Some of those mushroom barely get light. Years ago, I had MH lighting and they grew like crazy at the Top (so much that I had to prune and throw them out). Funny thing is those hairy mushrooms I used to throw out. I still have a garden of them on my right top rocks. Everytime they multiply too much, I cut and trade them at Local fish store for Credit. Get about $30-50 each. Man if I only kept those I threw out.

Zoas? I know nothing. Tried so many, and they are a mystery to me. Some do good, and others not. I think one factor is you need a semi-dirty nutrient rich tank (which is also true for Mushrooms/Acans).

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All the best. Keep learning, and have fun.

Sorry for the Long, Blah-Blah reply. That's just me.

thank you so much for that reply it clearly has a lot of research. Ill see if I can find a good spot for a acan as they are easy to find unlike good mushrooms in Australia. But it will be hard to tell without par testing, I have two spots in mind but one is higher light one very low