Peroxide question re:Dinos

[Bigtar]

so I’ve read all the threads on how to battle Dino’s. I have a couple questions that I probably missed the answers to, so please forgive me.

If I decide to nuke the tank, can I keep my fish, or will they reintroduce the Dino’s to the system? And , if they do reintroduce them, is it bad if I have the proper biological competition, and not have super stripped water.

I know people have used 3% peroxide. What if I remove the fish, and use something stronger? Say from a beauty supply? 20%? That should kill the suckers. How long does it take to become inert? Can I reintroduce the fish again? Assuming I get a cycle? Or should I just start from scratch? I was in the midst of a restart, and forgot that with only 2 fish, I didn’t need to put all the gfo and such back like I had with a fully stocked tank. So I’m only two fish and no corals in. 29 gal display, another 10 in a sump.

Any thoughts on the two questions would be helpful. I won’t be offended if this has been answered before and you can link me.

Thanks

Jason

 

[brandon429]

Facts from peroxide threads:

No practical usage will cause a cycle even with 20%
Reefcentral thread has several 35% runs. It takes massive overdoses to kill filtration bacteria they're housed in insulating biofilms. it may or may not work, but does have documented cures against dinos I would link your work to our peroxide threads

Take your sandbed out first then put it back rinsed clean only when dinos are beaten is best idea, don't give them a place to hide

Post full tank shot I'll give some max tolerance offers lemme see what spread of coral we have here

 

[ReeferMaddness843]

I had no luck with h202 on Dino. Bleach worked but my math was all jacked up so u lost all my fish. Came back later on (about a year or so). It’s due to bottoming nitrates out in my case. I added a 36w Jabeo uv off amazon and killed them all in 24-48 hours. No bad side effects. Just super clear water and happy coral.

 

[ReeferMaddness843]

 

[Bigtar]

Facts from peroxide threads:

No practical usage will cause a cycle even with 20%
Reefcentral thread has several 35% runs. It takes massive overdoses to kill filtration bacteria they're housed in insulating biofilms. it may or may not work, but does have documented cures against dinos I would link your work to our peroxide threads

Take your sandbed out first then put it back rinsed clean only when dinos are beaten is best idea, don't give them a place to hide

Post full tank shot I'll give some max tolerance offers lemme see what spread of coral we have here

I can take out the sand bed. I have no corals, and only two clownfish, who will have a temporary home.

I’ll look for the 35% threads. Thanks.

 

[Bigtar]

I had no luck with h202 on Dino. Bleach worked but my math was all jacked up so u lost all my fish. Came back later on (about a year or so). It’s due to bottoming nitrates out in my case. I added a 36w Jabeo uv off amazon and killed them all in 24-48 hours. No bad side effects. Just super clear water and happy coral.

Thanks. Been considering this as well. I may give this a try before I go for the heavy peroxide bomb.

 

[Salty Lemon]

@ReeferMaddness843 and I have shared these exact same posts in the last 24 hours. Too funny. :D I agree with ReeferM. I purchased a 36 watt coralife turbo twist UV Sterilizer a while back. I noticed a difference within a day and by day two, they were gone. If you can pick one up, it is worth it for dino problems.

 

[brandon429]

Zos will be resistant to most treatment methods the anemone is likely to retract but we've never seen them die with the 3 % however higher percentages are new ground to cover. Overall anemones have tolerated most peroxide runs

Coralline in the tank can lighten and any hidden lysmata cleaner shrimp are likely to die with peroxide dosing in tank. I believe strongly in UV as stated above

 

[Bigtar]

Zos will be resistant to most treatment methods the anemone is likely to retract but we've never seen them die with the 3 % however higher percentages are new ground to cover. Overall anemones have tolerated most peroxide runs

Coralline in the tank can lighten and any hidden lysmata cleaner shrimp are likely to die with peroxide dosing in tank. I believe strongly in UV as stated above

Well then it’s settled. I’ll try UV first. I will post to the appropriate forum with results.

I’ll keep the super strong peroxide in reserve. Im still curious as to how long it takes to turn into water and O2

 

[Salty Lemon]

Well then it’s settled. I’ll try UV first. I will post to the appropriate forum with results.

I’ll keep the super strong peroxide in reserve. Im still curious as to how long it takes to turn into water and O2

Just make sure sure you do some research before you go out and purchase one: I have a 36 watt on for my 250 gallons, but that is a bit too small although it is working great. I should have bought at least a 50 watt. Just read up on what you need to know before going out and purchasing one. :)
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/uv-sterilizer-how-big.238869/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/uv-sterilizer-how-big.238869/
https://aquaultraviolet.com/products/uv-sterilizers/classic-series/

 

[brandon429]

That decay time is believed to be four hours based on orp rebound testing (whereas initial dose causes paradoxical drop of orp. Four hours later back to normal)

Most other corals I can see / Lps will be tolerant to some work

Highest levels I recall sps enduring a few doses a week: 4 mls per ten gallons. 3%

You will have statistical outliers at that level, if required, but 1-2 mls per ten gallons conversely is tolerated quite well except for anemone anger. The corals are expected to survive that if you have to result to it. Well done planning. Lysmata will not likely survive any dosing they're most weakest animal we keep due to some metabolic issue they have with it, like instant convulsing / keel over level in most cases. In a few they survived a 1:10 dose just fine. By pattern, they cannot tolerate peroxide. I have video on my YouTube of both a boxer crab and coral banded shrimp habituated to swimming in approx twenty percent solution runoff, wanna see

Most other shrimp tolerate it. Lysmata are weak. Blood shrimp too. But not all:

35% 1 gallon total dilution, the shrimp swam in runoff from squirting that mushroom coral with the 35% making it froth up, then run down into half an inch of water where the Cbs rested while drained. It did not kill him, years of habituation testing. That's basically pouring strong strong bubbling oxidizer runoff into an aged tiny pico reef with no dilution, it's incredibly resistant to all peroxide due to years of testing. It is immune to any invasion as it's basically mouthwashed occasionally lol flushes all the bad stuff out. It did not kill my pods, fanworms, or sponges at all.

 

[ReeferMaddness843]

@ReeferMaddness843 and I have shared these exact same posts in the last 24 hours. Too funny. :D I agree with ReeferM. I purchased a 36 watt coralife turbo twist UV Sterilizer a while back. I noticed a difference within a day and by day two, they were gone. If you can pick one up, it is worth it for dino problems.

I was looking at the aqua UV for my tank. I wasn’t convinced so I bought a cheapie to just give it a try. I’m convinced 100% based on first hand experience. I’ll never run another tank without one and will also look to shell out the extra bread on a higher end unit. The one thing I read negative about these Jabeo units is the thin wall that is eventually eaten up by the uv and starts to break down. Gives me at least a 6 month or so window to get a better quality built unit in.

 

[brandon429]

I would never run a large reef without an oversized pond UV off Amazon agreed they're that good insurance

The breakpoint for me is access to a 100% water change. Any tank sized such that I can implement a total water change without fanfare can run without UV

But any size tank where that's impractical, yes UV. Either way you gotta access the whole water column for work if you want to hedge against today's common matted invaders. Nobody says it has to run 24 7 just plumb it in for insurance at least