please, how to save my tank

bruno3047

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When I have a rock with problem algae on it, I boil it in tapwater for about half an hour. Kills everything on the rock including the roots. Last time I recommended that though, I was inundated with responses warning me against aerosolizing palytoxin. Fortunately for me, I started my tank using all dry rock and I’m 100% sure there are no Palys in my tank. Boiled rock formally with bryopsis:

39F18E4C-7231-4837-89D8-3AEBBB266005.jpeg
 
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Bigair

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Remove by hand. You really shouldn't have let it get to this point to decide that it's an issue. Remove a bunch every week until you are tired and eventually it becomes manageable. Then it's like just cleaning your glass...
indeed I am too lazy, sometimes they just go deep in the sand and spread in the back part of the rock and it is nearly not possible to get rid of them, like pest…
 

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When I have a rock with problem algae on it, I boil it in tapwater for about half an hour. Kills everything on the rock including the roots. Last time I recommended that though, I was inundated with responses warning me against aerosolizing palytoxin. Fortunately for me, I started my tank using all dry rock and I’m 100% sure there are no Palys in my tank. Just saying.
There are many corals with toxins other than palys! Please be careful! Look up gonipora toxin, for example!
 

vetteguy53081

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curious how vibrant works, as far as I konw it mostly made of mixture of bacterias, will that compete with algae?
Dont think vibrant will do much However Fluconasal (Flux) may but I rarely trust Flux
 
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Bigair

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Sounds like you need a sea turtle!

In all seriousness, consider vibrant. Especially if you're already considering starting over. Just start slow with half dose and then scale up. Worst case scenario, you're already talking about a reboot. I have used it with great results and others have too. Not much to loose.

Edit: before anything remove every bit that you can by hand.
not so dare to use it afraid of losing any of my lps, but that could be a option less work than a reboot
 
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Bigair

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Boy, that question is a big can of worms. The guys who make it say it's bacteria. Folks here have done some citizen science and have compelling evidence that it's an algaecide.

I don't know how it works, but I do know that it worked in my tank.
I believe you more than those business men, algaexide will do the job but it is medicine, need to think it twice
 
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When I have a rock with problem algae on it, I boil it in tapwater for about half an hour. Kills everything on the rock including the roots. Last time I recommended that though, I was inundated with responses warning me against aerosolizing palytoxin. Fortunately for me, I started my tank using all dry rock and I’m 100% sure there are no Palys in my tank. Boiled rock formally with bryopsis:

39F18E4C-7231-4837-89D8-3AEBBB266005.jpeg
boiling would be an option, anyway there could be much of live things in it, let alone bacterias, will that cause a nittrate bomb?
 

bruno3047

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boiling would be an option, anyway there could be much of live things in it, let alone bacterias, will that cause a nittrate bomb?
You’ll have to use your best judgment. Just assume that everything on that rock is going to be dead, especially bacteria. If you have sufficient nitrification without that rock or rocks you’ll be OK. As far as a nitrate bomb you may see a very, very slight tick up, but I wouldn’t worry about that.
 
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Bigair

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You’ll have to use your best judgment. Just assume that everything on that rock is going to be dead, especially bacteria. If you have sufficient nitrification without that rock or rocks you’ll be OK. As far as a nitrate bomb you may see a very, very slight tick up, but I wouldn’t worry about that.
I am thinking how to carry this out as now almost all rocks are occupied by this kind of algae, I need to boil one after another with days of intevals to let bacteria survive, and need to avoid rock kisses rock, tough job;-)
 

bruno3047

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You’ll have to use your best judgment. Just assume that everything on that rock is going to be dead, especially bacteria. If you have sufficient nitrification without that rock or rocks you’ll be OK.
I am thinking how to carry this out as now almost all rocks are occupied by this kind of algae, I need to boil one after another with days of intevals to let bacteria survive, and need to avoid rock kisses rock, tough job;-)
Well there are things you can do to minimize the need for heavy nitrification. Primarily, reduce feeding. I would guess between 1/3 and 1/2 of all the rocks at once for the first shot would be safe if you feed minimally or not at all. Then you could do one at a time or two at a time with the rest of the rocks. Again, use your best judgment. Also, don’t clean anything else like the inside glass or the sand bed until you feel confident that your bacteria has reestablished itself. Algae growth on the inside of your glass in this situation is a good thing.
 
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Well there are things you can do to minimize the need for heavy nitrification. Primarily, reduce feeding. I would guess between 1/3 and 1/2 of all the rocks at once for the first shot would be safe if you feed minimally or not at all. Then you could do one at a time or two at a time with the rest of the rocks. Again, use your best judgment. Also, don’t clean anything else like the inside glass or the sand bed until you feel confident that your bacteria has reestablished itself. Algae growth on the inside of your glass in this situation is a good thing.good suggestion
good suggestion, but I‘d rather replace with new dry rocks under your proposal, seems more safer to me, sure that would cost more, but I really kind of hate those live rocks, doubting they were fetched in some dirty places rather than from caribesea
 

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will that have any side effect?
No. I’ve used it for long periods of time at higher than recommended doses, my tank is packed full of corals and nothing was negatively affected. You do need to keep an eye on nutrient levels as the algae dies, and you need to redose every time you do a water change (the percentage of the original dose relative to the percentage of tank volume you’re changing). You also can’t run carbon for the entire duration and need to take the cup off your skimmer for three days every time you dose it. @dvgyfresh recently used it to get rid of caulerpa in his tank and it worked pretty flawlessly. But to answer your question, other than increased nutrients from the dead algae, there are no side effects. I have seen people say they had problems with their SPS dosing fluconazole, but I’m willing to bet that it is the increased nutrients and not the fluconazole itself.

Here is a good thread to read about it:

 
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