Please verify DIY stand plans for around sump

pluikens · Jun 4, 2018

Hey all,

I'm designing a new stand that will slide around my sump to hold two 32 gallon Brute containers that will be used as ATO reservoirs. I plan to use the "rocket engineer" design but without one of the orange braces, on the side away from me when looking at the sump so I can slide the stand around it. The two pink braces on that side that typically meet the orange brace would extend to the floor. There will be two blue braces across the top which will land somewhere under the Brute containers. The red and yellow boards will be 2x6s with the rest being 2x4s. The dimensions will be 54 inches long, 30 inches wide, and 41 1/2 inches (overall) tall.

Are there any concerns with this design? I will skin just the top with 1/2" plywood to set the brute containers on. Below is a picture of the sump as the stand will slide around it and a "rocket engineer" design for reference. Thanks in advance!

nautical_nathaniel · Jun 5, 2018

That design should work, just make sure to use quality wood and materials.

#reefsquad, any other thoughts?

redfishbluefish · Jun 5, 2018

It's minor, and don't believe it's an issue, but your Rocket design slightly differs from the one I pinched years ago. Take note of the vertical legs and how they meet the joints of the upper/lower frame.

Now, removing the orange back base frame piece, I'd do one of two things....

1. Add 45 degree bracing connecting the back legs to the upper frame.....OR

2. Add a wide board (i.e. 2x6) or 3/4 plywood (at least 6 inches wide), connecting the two back legs....and as low as you can go and not hit the sump.

Kyl · Jun 5, 2018

I was always under the impression that the "seams" are supposed to be offset, ie the purple parts should be changed in orientation along with the green. To look like this:

pluikens · Jun 5, 2018

redfishbluefish said:
It's minor, and don't believe it's an issue, but your Rocket design slightly differs from the one I pinched years ago. Take note of the vertical legs and how they meet the joints of the upper/lower frame.

Now, removing the orange back base frame piece, I'd do one of two things....

1. Add 45 degree bracing connecting the back legs to the upper frame.....OR

2. Add a wide board (i.e. 2x6) or 3/4 plywood (at least 6 inches wide), connecting the two back legs....and as low as you can go and not hit the sump.

Yes, I grabbed the wrong drawing but I can definitely see where your suggested drawing would be preferred. I will also be adding a board across the back similar to the red board but lower and on the other side of the green board. That board should be the length of the distance between the yellow boards.

redfishbluefish · Jun 5, 2018

That should do it....keep the rear legs from splitting.

glb · Jun 6, 2018

How much weight would be on the stand?

pluikens · Jun 6, 2018

glb said:
How much weight would be on the stand?

The 32 gallon Brute (about 300 pounds) plus I think I'll make a little cabinet for equipment (less than 50 pounds) so I'd say 350 pounds. How much weight do you think the plan would support? I'd like to know what I could expand to safely.

glb · Jun 6, 2018

pluikens said:
The 32 gallon Brute (about 300 pounds) plus I think I'll make a little cabinet for equipment (less than 50 pounds) so I'd say 350 pounds. How much weight do you think the plan would support? I'd like to know what I could expand to safely.

I don’t know. I’ll see if I can find formulas for that.

pluikens · Jun 6, 2018

glb said:
I don’t know. I’ll see if I can find formulas for that.

Thanks, I appreciate it. Don't go to too much trouble though. I don't think I'd go much bigger in the water storage up there. I'd rather explore methods of reducing evaporation than go larger with the ATO reservoir.

cracker · Jun 6, 2018

How about a 3 legged table the back right vertical leg is gone. then a brace (2 by 4 ) mounted to the studs in the wall. so when the table as slid back into position that back right corner rested on it.
the back bottom orange is gone. Is that kind of what your thinking? I'd think that would support a lot of weight.

redfishbluefish · Jun 6, 2018

I just went and re-read the OP....and I guess I missed it, but I'd use 3/4 ply on the top, not 1/2 inch. You're not putting a tank on this stand that is supported directly by the edges of the stand....so go with 3/4 and a couple cross braces (blue boards) level to the top frame.

This design is so overbuilt....not an inkling of concern supporting 350 pounds...or double that....700 pounds.

pluikens · Jun 7, 2018

cracker said:
How about a 3 legged table the back right vertical leg is gone. then a brace (2 by 4 ) mounted to the studs in the wall. so when the table as slid back into position that back right corner rested on it.
the back bottom orange is gone. Is that kind of what your thinking? I'd think that would support a lot of weight.

Lagging into the stud has given me some ideas. So if the left yellow was lagged into the stud, then came out from the wall and was supported with a leg. The back red board would hang on the left yellow with a purlin hanger. That got me wondering if I should be thinking about this more like a deck rather than tank stand and if I should just be lagging the top 2x6 frame into 4x4 posts on the inside of the frame. I can use face mount hangers to hold up the blue braces between the red braces.

In this quick scribble, the red is wood and the blue is rerouted drain piping because it makes me anxious looking at it the way it is.