Plumbing Help - Convert Euro to US

[Royce024]

Hello,

I want to connect this 40 mm threaded bulkhead to US standard piping, so I can use a 1 1/4" Spears gate valve instead of the unreliable gate valve that came with the tank. I cannot keep my water level and salinity stable. The drain pipes are 40 mm. Is there an adapter that I can use to convert it to 1 1/4" pipes? I just want to screw on the adapter to convert it to US sizes. I'm a newbie when it comes to plumbing.

 

[Reefering1]

Those threads are for the nut, you can't just screw a adapter on there and expect it to seal properly...
I'm sure someone else can help you find correct fitting...

 

[UncommonSense]

Hello,

I want to connect this 40 mm threaded bulkhead to US standard piping, so I can use a 1 1/4" Spears gate valve instead of the unreliable gate valve that came with the tank. I cannot keep my water level and salinity stable. The drain pipes are 40 mm. Is there an adapter that I can use to convert it to 1 1/4" pipes? I just want to screw on the adapter to convert it to US sizes. I'm a newbie when it comes to plumbing.

The plumbing goes inside the bulkhead fitting, not screwed onto the outside, typically!

You’ll need a short length of probably 32mm pipe (double check bulkhead ID), and a metric to imperial plumbing adapter (available via BRS or many other online retailers)!

Note: metric pipe is measured by outside diameter, imperial pipe is measure by inside diameter.

 

[Reefering1]

What is the diameter of the hole in glass? Maybe just replace the entire bulkhead?

 

[Royce024]

The plumbing goes inside the bulkhead fitting, not screwed onto the outside, typically!

You’ll need a short length of probably 32mm pipe (double check bulkhead ID), and a metric to imperial plumbing adapter (available via BRS or many other online retailers)!

Note: metric pipe is measured by outside diameter, imperial pipes measure by inside diameter.

I see, currently it is connected like this.

 

[Royce024]

What is the diameter of the hole in glass? Maybe just replace the entire bulkhead?

I am not sure. I would have to drain the overflow and disconnect the bulkhead.

 

[UncommonSense]

I see, currently it is connected like this.

Hmm… unusual! — likely to get the necessary flow rate… well, I like the idea of replacing the bulkhead entirely with an imperial one, if you can find a close match for the hole(s) in your glass!

I am not sure. I would have to drain the overflow and disconnect the bulkhead.

You can measure the threaded OD of the existing bulkhead to get you close, but measuring the glass itself tells you exactly what will or won’t fit!

 

[Freenow54]

The plumbing goes inside the bulkhead fitting, not screwed onto the outside, typically!

You’ll need a short length of probably 32mm pipe (double check bulkhead ID), and a metric to imperial plumbing adapter (available via BRS or many other online retailers)!

Note: metric pipe is measured by outside diameter, imperial pipe is measure by inside diameter.

Yes until 6 inches

 

[Reefering1]

Draining the overflow is easier than it sounds.. just stop the return pump/ skimmer and remove the standpipes inside overflow(they shouldn't be glued). It will drain, only leaving a couple mm of water for you to catch...

 

[Freenow54]

You are just going to have to accept metric is superior in many ways. I am 71 . Measurement is the most accurate . In your case use the terms female and male . also npt which means nominal pipe thread and also mip and fip male female pipe thread. it is not US but actually British funny since your ancestors drove them out but still abide by their antiquated ways

 

[Royce024]

Draining the overflow is easier than it sounds.. just stop the return pump/ skimmer and remove the standpipes inside overflow(they shouldn't be glued). It will drain, only leaving a couple mm of water for you to catch...

Okay, i'll attempt to do it.

 

[Uncle99]

I bridged from metric to standard using an adaptor.
So my overflows came metric and my piping is standard.

So you need a metric to standard coupler.

This place has every possible combination.

If that helps, IDK.

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[Royce024]

Okay, measured the hole to be about 2.5"

 

[Reefering1]

I believe that's a 1.5" bulkhead.. do they make the valve you want in 1.5"

 

[Royce024]

I believe that's a 1.5" bulkhead.. do they make the valve you want in 1.5"

I think now I want to replace the bulkhead + the down pipe and overflow box pipe to imperial. I want to use a spears gate valve. I think BRS sells that valve in 1.5".

 

[Reefering1]

I think now I want to replace the bulkhead + the down pipe and overflow box pipe to imperial. I want to use a spears gate valve. I think BRS sells that valve in 1.5".

That's a fine plan. But before redoing it, maybe explain what the current setup is doing, what return pump are you using? Realistically, it should be able to be made quiet without re plumbing...

 

[Royce024]

That's a fine plan. But before redoing it, maybe explain what the current setup is doing, what return pump are you using? Realistically, it should be able to be made quiet without re plumbing...

I have one of those AF OceanGuard tanks. Overnight the water level of the tank would increase to the emergency drain, causing the water level of the sump to decrease. The ATO would trigger and it would dump 5 gallons of RO water. It happens the other way around too. The water level of the tank would decrease and flood the sump, making my skimmer overflow. I have 1 Sicce SDC 6 return pump for the main return and another one for the UV sterilizer. Both are at a constant power that doesn't change. I perform an AWC with a GHL doser maxi everyday with a high and low level float sensor which is about 3 gallons a day. The water level is so unstable that my salinity dropped to 1.022 -1.023 over a month after setting up the tank. The overflow box is clean without algae blocking the water from going in. I removed the proprietary water strainer and silencer for the downpipe to see if it would do anything, but its the same.

 

[Reefering1]

I have one of those AF OceanGuard tanks. Overnight the water level of the tank would increase to the emergency drain, causing the water level of the sump to decrease. The ATO would trigger and it would dump 5 gallons of RO water. It happens the other way around too. The water level of the tank would decrease and flood the sump, making my skimmer overflow. I have 1 Sicce SDC 6 return pump for the main return and another one for the UV sterilizer. Both are at a constant power that doesn't change. I perform an AWC with a GHL doser maxi everyday with a high and low level float sensor which is about 3 gallons a day. The water level is so unstable that my salinity dropped to 1.022 -1.023 over a month after setting up the tank. The overflow box is clean without algae blocking the water from going in. I removed the proprietary water strainer and silencer for the downpipe to see if it would do anything, but its the same.

Im not familiar with that setup. I see 4 bulkheads, is that 3 drains and 1 return or 2/2? Can you post some pics of inside the overflow box, preferably with pumps running? Does return pump and uv pump from sump to display? Does uv run 24/7?

 

[cba191]

I have an oceanguard 275 and replaced everything with imperial.

 

[Royce024]

Im not familiar with that setup. I see 4 bulkheads, is that 3 drains and 1 return or 2/2? Can you post some pics of inside the overflow box, preferably with pumps running? Does return pump and uv pump from sump to display? Does uv run 24/7?

2 pumps in the sump returning to the display going thru 2 separate return lines. 1 pump going thru the UV back to the tank and the other is just the main return.