PSA: I won't give up!

[Tyler D]

Hey R2R,

I'm two years into this hobby and I need to lean on the experts in keeping SPS for guidance and support! Here is my story:

I started off 6/1/15 with a 75 gallon marine land tank and stand purchased on craigslist. Used the live rock that came with the tank, added a HOB reef octopus skimmer and TLF phosban reactor, two black box LED lights (ebay) and two hydor powerheads and we were off to the races. Over the length of almost 1 yr I added various livestock and frags. Things were going great, I had gotten into a good maintenance routine and weekly water changes. My corals, especially the SPS/acro frags showed great color and decent growth... you would think I would just sit back and be happy and enjoy...but one night, up late reading through the R2R SPS forums with one eye open- I had this amazing vision of beautiful colonies of acropora with beautiful polyp extension dancing in the current of a larger and more well thought out system... I woke up that morning realizing I got the itch to upgrade... and I haven't looked back.

6/1/16 I purchased a 150 gallon SCAquariums tank and stand, lifereef LF1300-S sump and SVS-24 skimmer with refugium attached and began the build. Around the same time, I also purchased an ATI 48" T5 fixture (3 B+ and 3 C+ bulbs) and a reefbrite XHO blue strip to replace the black box LEDs. Next up was aBRS Dual carbon/GFO reactor and a Geo618 Carx with 20lb C02 tank and electronic regulator. The sump is plumbed straight down into the basement and a Blueline 100HD is pumping everything back up to the display @ approx 12 ft. of head. The return flow is supplemented with two Tunze 6095 powerheads which are on interval wave settings. I added an Apex with most of the bells and whistles for redundancy and peace of mind when traveling for work.

I have a mixed reef with mostly zoa/paly, LPS and SPS and some mushrooms. The first 10 months of the new tank has had it's ups and downs. Mostly downs... first I made the mistake of not rinsing the caribsea ocean direct live sand enough... the next mistake was adding a bunch of uncured dry base rock to the seeded live rock when setting up the new tank. Causing a major phosphate leeching event that lasted almost 3-4 months with an insane GHA battle ending in a successful fluconazole treatment. Then after adding 12-15 new acro frags I finally got around to switching from 2-part to turning on the calcium reactor to get it dialed in and I just didn't give it the attention and time I needed to... resulting in Alk fluctuations. I have lost almost all but two or three of my acros... I am tired of spending money on frags with dreams of branching and tabling colonies just to get crushed by waking up to one with RTN or completely lost. This is where you all come in... help me figure out what I am doing wrong.

I am using HW Marine salt, and have been since day 1.

Latest test readings using API for PH, Nitrate, Nitrite and using Hannah for Alk and P04 then using RedSea to verify Alk and also test Ca and Mag:

PH = 7.8 - 8.07
Alk = 8.2 DKH (rock steady for 1 month now) previously it fluctuated between 7.8-10.5 DKH while I had ignorance with my Carx.
Ca = 440
Mag = 1380
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 0 < 3ppm (latest test was 0)
P04 = 0

Other things to note: I cannot seem to keep my tank temp below 80.5 in the summer months, currently 7 day temp swing average from apex is 80.5 - 82.5. I am about to add a beast fan above my sump to see if it will help with the temp as I want to be 78-80 year round. I think my Blueline return pump might be the biggest culprit here... Thoughts?

I changed out my DI resin, and filters and am 0 TDS on my 6 stage BRS RODI system. The tank is getting about 4-5 hours of indirect natural light through the day. Reefbrite strip is on from 10am-12pm. T5 Kicks on at 12pm - 7pm and reefbrites back on from 6pm-9pm. Is this lighting schedule o.k.? My T5 light fixture is approx 5 inches above the water (as that is all my canopy will allow without retrofitting it). I have not tested any PAR readings-

I am currently nuisance algae free, except for a bit of cyano... holding rock solid parameters, I adopted the "easy Carx" method and have been holding alk at 8.2 for a month. The RODI is serviced and pumping out clean water. I perform a 25 gallon water change every 10 days, new ROX .8 carbon and GFO every 45 days. Should I run the Carbon/GFO just on an as-needed basis? I see a lot of other reefers run it 24x7 and is what I have done since I began this journey. I do have a problem with putting my hands in the tank often... meaning once or twice a day on average. Usually either when feeding or a turkey baster on the rocks/sandbed to stir up detritus, move a frag that got buried by my diamond goby... whatever the reason.

So... in another two weeks I am going to do a swap with a local reefer and get some nice frags... and I am not going to lie... I am kinda scared, I don't want to lose any of them. Here is the pack I am getting:

Leng sy Monti cap
Forest fire digi
Pink lemonade
Strawberry shortcake
Ora frogskin Setosa
Ora Bird of paradise
Pc rainbow
Blue dragon
Green birdsnest

I am determined to succeed and fulfill my SPS dream, especially with your help and my continuous learning. Let me know your thoughts!

Pics coming up...

 

[Tyler D]

The above first two pictures are where it began and where it ended with the 75 gallon. Third picture is the new sump/skimmer/water station.

 

[Tyler D]

New Tank

Sump Station

FTS

 

[Jason mack]

I really like your aquascape looks great !!!I would do a triton test .. see what's really in your water or not .. you just could be lacking in a few trace elements or too many or you could have heavy metals in .. I've had my problems with sps .. triton test helped me see where I was going wrong .. just my 2 cents !

 

[Tyler D]

I would do a triton test .. see what's really in your water .. just my 2 cents !

Glad you mentioned that. I will be ordering the test tomorrow... i'll pay the $50 for peace of mind. Thanks Jason!

 

[lilchris_357]

I have been told if you are running an ultra low nutrient system (zero Phosphate and Nitrates) your ALK should be at NSW levels which is 7.0 to 7.5DKH. Maybe try lowering your Alk a bit. Do you have alk swings when you do your water changes? Wait for the experts to chime in.

 

[Tyler D]

I have been told if you are running an ultra low nutrient system (zero Phosphate and Nitrates) your ALK should be at NSW levels which is 7.0 to 7.5DKH. Maybe try lowering your Alk a bit. Do you have alk swings when you do your water changes? Wait for the experts to chime in.

HW mixes up to between 8.8-9 DKH, I honestly have not been testing the new SW before every w/c... I've tested it once each time a new box is opened. No Alk swings when w/c are done. I thought since I have cyano present, it was an indicator of higher nutrients in the water column... even though nitrates and phosphates are nonexistent?

Thanks for the food for thought [emoji1303]

 

[Flippers4pups]

Yep, most likely too clean. You need around 5ppm NO3 and a trace PO4.

Big swings in alkalinity are a big problem for SPS. I'd say that has a lot to do with your SPS problem, but it not everything.

Also, how many bulbs in the T5 fixture and what's the total watts? How far off the water is the fixture?

Your new set up has been up for a month. I'm one of those that will tell you that a young system (under a year) should be SPS free till balanced. This is in no way to tell you that you shouldn't attempt them now, but this is the time frame that most hobbyist struggle through imbalances and out breaks of the "nasties" (nuisance algae). This has mostly to do with the hobbyist trying to figure out what the tank needs to be stable (equipment and with vigorous testing, how and what to dose to keep it stable, consistently, day after day, weeks after week, month after month.)

SPS love stable water pramameters
and hate when the tank and water get messed with.

Messed with: changing lighting, changing flow, changing equipment and the BIG one....... changing water pramameters quickly.

One last thing, as with anything that enters out tanks, QT everything! Dip every coral for pests and acclimate them SLOWLY to water pramaters and LIGHT!

 

[#thematrix]

Sorry i didnt read much of what was going on i saw candy and started using my neighbors spinning thing and then.

I cant be the only one that saw that huge shroom...

Amazing

 

[justingraham]

I would say ur waters fine as long as it doesn't swing to much in a day I recomend computer fans works for my tank.

Triton test is nice idea good job.

Keep ur hand out of the tank once I learned that things started taking off for me now only once a week a go in there and mostly to clean.

U might have to much light. I think ur alk is fine with ur params to high would be in the nines.

I don't rember anything about flow what's ur flow like?

I run triton on a doser so I am no help in the carx department or waterchange department.

I think after u get the triton results back it will tell u what u need to know. Either there is something in ur water or u were unable to keep sps before because of all ur alk swings. For what it's worth I test alk every day at 9:10 pm that's it every once in a while I will test calcium and I test everything else when I send out a triton test. O what's ur salinity and how do u measure it?

Good luck

Justin

 

[Tyler D]

Yep, most likely too clean. You need around 5ppm NO3 and a trace PO4.

Big swings in alkalinity are a big problem for SPS. I'd say that has a lot to do with your SPS problem, but it not everything.

Also, how many bulbs in the T5 fixture and what's the total watts? How far off the water is the fixture? 6 bulb ATI 3 blue + and 3 coral +, fixture is 5-6 inches off the surface

Your new set up has been up for a month. It has been 1 yr and 1 month. With 60% of the live rock being established for over 3 years. I'm one of those that will tell you that a young system (under a year) should be SPS free till balanced. This is in no way to tell you that you shouldn't attempt them now, but this is the time frame that most hobbyist struggle through imbalances and out breaks of the "nasties" (nuisance algae). This has mostly to do with the hobbyist trying to figure out what the tank needs to be stable (equipment and with vigorous testing, how and what to dose to keep it stable, consistently, day after day, weeks after week, month after month.)

SPS love stable water pramameters
and hate when the tank and water get messed with.

Messed with: changing lighting, changing flow, changing equipment and the BIG one....... changing water pramameters quickly.

One last thing, as with anything that enters out tanks, QT everything! Dip every coral for pests and acclimate them SLOWLY to water pramaters and LIGHT!

Do you think I should move the fixture higher up off the surface of the water? The tank is 60 x 24 x 24.

 

[Tyler D]

I would say ur waters fine as long as it doesn't swing to much in a day I recomend computer fans works for my tank.

Triton test is nice idea good job.

Keep ur hand out of the tank once I learned that things started taking off for me now only once a week a go in there and mostly to clean.

U might have to much light. I think ur alk is fine with ur params to high would be in the nines.

I don't rember anything about flow what's ur flow like? two tunze 6095 powerheads and my return pump pushing 1200 gph @ 12ft head pressure.

 

[Tyler D]

Sorry i didnt read much of what was going on i saw candy and started using my neighbors spinning thing and then.

I cant be the only one that saw that huge shroom...

Amazing

You mean this guy? [emoji41]

 

[Tyler D]

So back on topic. Triton test is ordered and a 12" fan is now blasting down into my sump as of yesterday at 8pm. Temp is already looking much better. I'll keep you updated on the Triton results...

 

[VP616]

I really like your aquascape looks great !!!I would do a triton test .. see what's really in your water or not .. you just could be lacking in a few trace elements or too many or you could have heavy metals in .. I've had my problems with sps .. triton test helped me see where I was going wrong .. just my 2 cents !

I have been told if you are running an ultra low nutrient system (zero Phosphate and Nitrates) your ALK should be at NSW levels which is 7.0 to 7.5DKH. Maybe try lowering your Alk a bit. Do you have alk swings when you do your water changes? Wait for the experts to chime in.

Yep, most likely too clean. You need around 5ppm NO3 and a trace PO4.

+1 to all the above. Tank is running very clean; possibly a little "too" clean.

Triton test will help determine any possible, unseen heavy metal problems.

In my own experience and from what others have said, running an ULNS like you are, alk should be a bit lower, around 7.0 - 7.5 dKH. Any higher and you get things like TN and "alk burn" with SPS. You could try another salt mix with a lower dKH for your next water change. Again though, any changes need to be slow and deliberate.

Try getting nitrates to around 5 ppm and phosphates to 0.02 - 0.03 ppm. SPS need just a small bit of nutrients. Cyano could be the result of lack of flow to that area or also the result of your lighting/lighting schedule.

Speaking of lighting, how are you acclimating your new SPS frags when you get them? Do you dip everything before placement? And how are you placing them: starting on the sand bed and slowly raising them to acclimate them to the light or just directly placing them on their permanent spots?

It'll be interesting to see what the Triton results say.

 

[Tyler D]

Thanks for the feedback folks! I've slowly lowered my alk just a bit to 7.8 DKH. My phosphates remain at ZERO and I am deciding to take out the GFO from my dual reactor and just run carbon periodically and let my fuge to it's thang. I have not been able to really grow the chaeto I have in there and maybe it is because the tank is starved of phosphates? I thought that no phosphates was a good thing? I have been feeding a tad heavier with the intent to get nitrates to show a little... I have great flow in the tank between the 2,000 GPH turnover via the return pump and two Tunze 6095 wavemaker powerheads... not worried there. I am thinking the cyano is a result of too much light, so I raised the T5 fixture two-three inches I will be sending out the Triton test tomorrow and then I shall wait to see what comes back.

When I get any new frags I acclimate them close to the sandbed on a frag rack and I will slowly raise the rack over about two weeks until they are in the middle of the tank and ready for placement. Should I be waiting longer or slowing this process down more? I dip all of my corals before placement but I can't help and think about pests and if they exist in my system. I added the frag pack two days ago and will be watching everything very closely.

 

[Tyler D]

 

[VP616]

I have not been able to really grow the chaeto I have in there and maybe it is because the tank is starved of phosphates? I thought that no phosphates was a good thing? I have been feeding a tad heavier with the intent to get nitrates to show a little...

Should I be waiting longer or slowing this process down more? I dip all of my corals before placement but I can't help and think about pests and if they exist in my system. I added the frag pack two days ago and will be watching everything very closely.

If the chaeto is not growing, it may very well mean your tank is starved of nutrients. "Trace" amounts of nutrients are needed for SPS corals' biological functions. Therefore, very, very low phosphates is fine. Absolute 0 phosphates is not ideal, as demonstrated by lack of growth from the macroalgae and TN of the SPS. Same goes for nitrates. Heavier feedings will help bring nitrates up, but keep in mind that an increase in nitrates may push phosphate levels down further. Some people end up having to dose phosphates when they run undetectable levels over long periods of time.

Your acclimation procedure for the corals seems fine. As long as the corals do well on the frag rack, no need to change the acclimation process. Just pay close attention to their reactions to the light as you raise them toward their placement levels.

 

[Tyler D]

Update: Day 9 with the SPS frag pack in the display tank. The Orange Setosa and Digi are looking very bleached... the PC rainbow is bleached but only on the tips. The Leng Sy monti cap is losing color around the edges... The frag rack has remained 2 inches above the sandbed since arrival. Yesterday I adjusted my T5 lighting schedule back a bit...

I WAS running all 6 bulbs on the 48" fixture from 12pm-7pm with the reefbrite blue xho 48" LED strip running from 11am-1pm and again from 7pm-9pm.

NOW I am running two separate channels on the T5 fixture. The dusk/dawn, we'll call this "DD" (two B+ bulbs) channel and the Day (3C+ and 1B+ bulbs) channel. New schedule as follows: DD on 12p-7:30p, Day channel on from 2pm-6:30, Reefbrite LED on from 12pm-2pm and again from 6:30 - 9:30pm.

Alk has been rock solid at 8 DKH. PH between 7.8-8.1. Nitrates still 0, Phosphates still 0. I ordered a salifert nitrate kit to use in conjunction with the API test I currently have. New fans over sump and display tank have temp holding between 79-80.5. Should I do anything other than feed the tank/fish a bit more than usual to get my nitrates up? Carbon and GFO are still offline. Waiting anxiously on Triton results... I am not making any other tweaks or changes over the coming weeks. Just going to focus on the results of the Triton test and maintain my routine.

 

[Tyler D]

How long will you let me slide R2R?... [emoji23] seriously though I need to figure this out. Especially after depressing myself with the viewing of Chasing Corals.