I use Brightwell Potassium (powder) and I like it. But....you'll need a test kit to dial the dosage/levels on reef water. I use a Salifert test kit for it.
PSA: I won't give up!
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I use Brightwell Potassium (powder) and I like it. But....you'll need a test kit to dial the dosage/levels on reef water. I use a Salifert test kit for it.
After the Triton results provided some enlightenment I have since done a 65% water change with a new box of HW Marine with appropriate potassium levels. I have learned a valuable lesson in testing, at a minimum- the first "mix" of any new box of salt purchased. Ideally, test every time I mix up a new batch of SW. My LPS is looking much happier and the few pieces of SPS I have left are actually showing small signs of improvement. I also removed the two pieces of marinepure that have been sitting in my sump for a year... I have plenty of live rock between the DT and refugium. Nothing good happens fast, so for now... I will sit back and let things be stable. Will post updates and pics as the SPS success quest continues.
I made the switch to Fritz RPM salt. Been monitoring the big three + nitrates are now sitting at 5-10 ppm. Things are stable, my one "tester acro" frag is happy, and best of all ALIVE after sitting in the display for two weeks now. A few more weeks and it will be time to get another SPS pack and put it to the test. Then I hope to document the tanks progress and growth. Cheers-
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What did triton tell you to do? At the end it should have told u how to correct all the red markers
@justingraham i'm glad you mentioned that. I completely missed those tabs at the top of the Triton report. The significant things they recommended: 6 x 15% water changes over 6 wks. Dosing potassium back to adequate levels. They also recommend a bit of various trace element dosing that I am not going to do as those parameters were slightly deviating from standard.
O.k., I just added a myagi tort, blue tort, a no-name blue/teal acro and a Hawkins to the tank. Picked these chunky frags up from a really nice local Reefer. Also, I'm seeing good signs of my DFS Ultra Fox Loripes coming back from the dead. I thought this thing was toast.
Jason mack
Monti madness
Time is everything .. and patients..! I feel for you ..
O.k., I just added a myagi tort, blue tort, a no-name blue/teal acro and a Hawkins to the tank. Picked these chunky frags up from a really nice local Reefer. Also, I'm seeing good signs of my DFS Ultra Fox Loripes coming back from the dead. I thought this thing was toast.
How they're doing?
RTN.....STN?
From top or bottom?
Ra remains 7,8?
From top or bottom?
Ra remains 7,8?
Continue to read and research this subject and explore other opportunities to turn around my lack of success with SPS and I came across the subject of Chloramines. I live in Leawood, Kansas and sure enough the local water facility treats the water with chlorine. I proceeded to acquire some total and free chlorine test strips... and after dipping in my RODI container, chloramines tested positive. I ordered a new RO membrane, DI resin, CAC, and chlorplus 10 carbon block and once replaced and flushed through my 6 stage RODI system I will be cleaning out my saltwater mixing station and making a fresh batch of SW. I plan on 15% water changes weekly for the next month and will try a frag or two of easier SPS to put the results to the test. Wish me luck! The more I think about it this is the one main variable that has changed since my 75 gallon tank and upgrading moving things over to the 150 gallon. I went from purchasing salt water and RODI water, to making my own. This could be what I have been up against all along... we shall see. I am trying not to get my hopes up too much just yet. CHLORAMINES!!! AHHHH.
Good luck! Hope it turns out well for you, that would be great.
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I beleive this was my problem as well wish u luck like I have finally got back on my side
Found this today doing routine maintenance. Not sure how long it’s been rusting but this could also be a part of my SPS troubles...
It’s been a while since I’ve updated so here is the short story...bad salt batch, then chloramines, then stray voltage issues, then a rusted float switch. I’ve been keeping alk between 7.8-8.2 and Nitrates at about 10ppm. Phosphates about .1 on the Hannah ULR checker. I have a red monti cap in the DT now as a tester. Wish me luck [emoji1303]
It’s been a while since I’ve updated so here is the short story...bad salt batch, then chloramines, then stray voltage issues, then a rusted float switch. I’ve been keeping alk between 7.8-8.2 and Nitrates at about 10ppm. Phosphates about .1 on the Hannah ULR checker. I have a red monti cap in the DT now as a tester. Wish me luck [emoji1303]
What was the source of the stray voltage? Hopefully things start to turn around!
It turned out being an old power head I had in the sump to keep detritus from settling. Ultimately, I think I have learned my SPS struggles have been from multiple contributing factors. I'm just fixing things as I discover them and taking it slow. All other corals are doing well so things could always be worse!
We are on the path to SPS righteousness! I've had a no-name acro frag in the display for almost a month now and it is going strong. Looking forward to adding a few more sticks and patiently waiting for more positive results!
What I have learned, in short - is that there are many different things that can contribute to a certain inability to keep and sustain certain coral (SPS, in my case). I had quite a few things I needed to work through and the timing of some of them were not on my side. First it was stabilizing my tank temperature at 77-78.5 degrees. Next, it was learning to check the fresh batches of SW I am mixing up to ensure parameters are in-line. My bad two boxes of HW Marine with low potassium became a realization after sending in the Triton ICP test. On the same topic of water, I also learned about chloramines and that I had small traces in my RODI... which I fixed with the appropriate CAC/chloramine block filters in my 6 stage system. Then I learned to not drive myself crazy trying to figure out the answer and just step back and pay attention to what the tank is telling me...and to keep my dang hand out of the tank and just let things settle... not only was I not able to keep SPS, but I couldn't keep a red monti cap alive, not even the easiest of SPS. I also had my acans shriveling up and fading away on me. I did a thorough "21 point" inspection of my tank, in which I discovered pumps that needed serious cleaning, stray voltage issue with a heater, and most importantly a rusted-out float switch that had been the low level switch in my sump (who knows how long it was down there rusting...).
So all in all, after 10 months of struggles and learning A LOT.... I stabilized my temp, corrected the potassium level, removed any chloramines from my RODI water, located and removed the rusted out switch... and things are looking up for the first time. Thank you all for your input and suggestions along the way!
Latest Chems are:
Nitrites = 0
Ammonia = 0
PH = 8.1
Alk = 7.8
Nitrates = 20ppm
Phosphate = .1
Calcium = 440
Mag = 1350
What I have learned, in short - is that there are many different things that can contribute to a certain inability to keep and sustain certain coral (SPS, in my case). I had quite a few things I needed to work through and the timing of some of them were not on my side. First it was stabilizing my tank temperature at 77-78.5 degrees. Next, it was learning to check the fresh batches of SW I am mixing up to ensure parameters are in-line. My bad two boxes of HW Marine with low potassium became a realization after sending in the Triton ICP test. On the same topic of water, I also learned about chloramines and that I had small traces in my RODI... which I fixed with the appropriate CAC/chloramine block filters in my 6 stage system. Then I learned to not drive myself crazy trying to figure out the answer and just step back and pay attention to what the tank is telling me...and to keep my dang hand out of the tank and just let things settle... not only was I not able to keep SPS, but I couldn't keep a red monti cap alive, not even the easiest of SPS. I also had my acans shriveling up and fading away on me. I did a thorough "21 point" inspection of my tank, in which I discovered pumps that needed serious cleaning, stray voltage issue with a heater, and most importantly a rusted-out float switch that had been the low level switch in my sump (who knows how long it was down there rusting...).
So all in all, after 10 months of struggles and learning A LOT.... I stabilized my temp, corrected the potassium level, removed any chloramines from my RODI water, located and removed the rusted out switch... and things are looking up for the first time. Thank you all for your input and suggestions along the way!
Latest Chems are:
Nitrites = 0
Ammonia = 0
PH = 8.1
Alk = 7.8
Nitrates = 20ppm
Phosphate = .1
Calcium = 440
Mag = 1350
Time for an update!
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