Qting Regal Angel.

[UncleSalty]

So my regal didn't eat this afternoon. He's been eating great the whole time. He was out begging for food.

Saturday we went out of town so he ate in the am. And then didn't eat again until Sunday pm. I was feeding 3x a day.

He ate Sunday night like a pig 2xs. Monday (this morning) he came out and ate but seemed more shy. Tonight I fed him and he didn't come out of his PVC. He may have eaten pieces that came into the PVC but he didn't come out.

My ammonia badge looked like it could have shifted to the green but it's hard to tell. If it did it is very slight. I did a 50% change immediately when I got home Sunday and another 50% today.

Salinity had been stable at 1.018 and the copper has held perfectly at 1.70.

I'm wondering if the stress of the 50% water change out him back into hiding? Or is this a beginning sign of infection. He has no wounds or any visible issues. Breathing is normal.

Copper is a known appetite suppressant - so that could be it. Also, and I swear by this and have had numerous people PM me about it and say it worked for their Regal that wouldn't eat. I had a Regal that wouldn't eat for two weeks in QT, I finally found a post in the bowels of this forum that said his Angel loved collared greens. I went to Walmart/Grocery Store and bought some. Immediately my Regal who didn't eat ANYTHING (clam/mysis/brine/etc) went up to it and devoured a whole leaf. Every Angel I have had absolutely loves them. May we worth a try on yours.

 

[Biglurr54]

Well I think I am going to put the regal into a tank with nfg. Day 2 and it hasn't eaten anything. It just hides in it's PVC pipe. I'm going to continue with ttm and nfg for 7-10 days and revaluate on what's next.

What are your thoughts?

@HotRocks
@Big B

 

[Biglurr54]

During the transfer to the nfg ttm tank 1 I noticed some loose scales. I did a fresh water dip for 5 mins and the tags fell off. I found clean scale like things in the fw dip bucket. Very hard to see but they looked like flukes on the fish but not like flukes in the bucket. His sides are getting thin so #1 priority is getting him eating again.

I think I will do nfg for a few days and see how he does after the fw dip. Then a full general cure treatment to deal with the flukes. Or should I attacks the flukes and then do the nfg?

 

[Biglurr54]

Well the Regal is doing slightly better each day. Today, he came out of his pvc and grabbed some mysis out of the water column. Im not sure if it was the FW dip or the NFG or the removal from copper. I have reviewed my notes on what I have done with this fish so far. I had 10 days in therapeutic copper. According to my research that should have eradicated the fish of velvet. I plan to do TTM for the next 4 days to ensure any possible Ich is eradicated. (14 days total of blocking the fish from ich)

I am going to do a tank transfer tonight and I’m not sure what to do. I can continue the NFG treatment and then after NFG treat with Prazi or I could do the transfer, stop NFG, and give him 2 days in Prazipro, then transfer him and begin the NFG treatment again. I would administer Prazi again after the NFG treatment is complete.

I’m leaning towards the Prazi first for a few reasons: 1. I believe I witnessed flukes on the fish before the fw dip and I have not seen any signs of infection other than red area where the pectoral fins attach. (Could be normal as it was not a sore or apparent. I can not get a photo of it because it is very faint and hard to see unless the fish is out of the water.) This would also allow the NGF to prevent infection and allow the fish to heal from Fluke attachments. My concern is that I am stopping NFG after two days of treatment and I may create some NFG resistant bacteria.

What’s the best course?

@Big G @HotRocks @4FordFamily

 

[4FordFamily]

Well the Regal is doing slightly better each day. Today, he came out of his pvc and grabbed some mysis out of the water column. Im not sure if it was the FW dip or the NFG or the removal from copper. I have reviewed my notes on what I have done with this fish so far. I had 10 days in therapeutic copper. According to my research that should have eradicated the fish of velvet. I plan to do TTM for the next 4 days to ensure any possible Ich is eradicated. (14 days total of blocking the fish from ich)

I am going to do a tank transfer tonight and I’m not sure what to do. I can continue the NFG treatment and then after NFG treat with Prazi or I could do the transfer, stop NFG, and give him 2 days in Prazipro, then transfer him and begin the NFG treatment again. I would administer Prazi again after the NFG treatment is complete.

I’m leaning towards the Prazi first for a few reasons: 1. I believe I witnessed flukes on the fish before the fw dip and I have not seen any signs of infection other than red area where the pectoral fins attach. (Could be normal as it was not a sore or apparent. I can not get a photo of it because it is very faint and hard to see unless the fish is out of the water.) This would also allow the NGF to prevent infection and allow the fish to heal from Fluke attachments. My concern is that I am stopping NFG after two days of treatment and I may create some NFG resistant bacteria.

What’s the best course?

@Big G @HotRocks @4FordFamily

10 days then a transfer to a completely sterile tank? Sorry I’m at an airport but if this isn’t the case then unfortunately you need to start over. 14 days is recommended if transferring to sterile tank. No need for further transfers, won’t help for velvet.

30 days copper if not. Glad the angel is eating! You can use Prazi and NFG or use Prazi for an hour or two before a transfer it will have the same effect and save you a water change.

 

[Biglurr54]

10 days then a transfer to a completely sterile tank? Sorry I’m at an airport but if this isn’t the case then unfortunately you need to start over. 14 days is recommended if transferring to sterile tank. No need for further transfers, won’t help for velvet.

30 days copper if not. Glad the angel is eating! You can use Prazi and NFG or use Prazi for an hour or two before a transfer it will have the same effect and save you a water change.

The regal was in copper for 10 days then stopped eating. He was transferred to a sterile qt tank and I will continue transferring (sterile tanks) to out run ich for the last few days.

Will prazi be as effective with only 2 hours exposure?

I'm doing water changes daily as an ammonia preventative so that's not a problem.

 

[ngoodermuth]

Prazi doesn’t kill flukes, but rather causes them to spasm and dislodge from the fish rather quickly. After about 10 hours they die, but for a tank transfer all that really matters is getting them “off” of the fish. Just make sure to do a second dose 5-7 days later to account for hatching eggs.

 

[Biglurr54]

Prazi doesn’t kill flukes, but rather causes them to spasm and dislodge from the fish rather quickly. After about 10 hours they die, but for a tank transfer all that really matters is getting them “off” of the fish. Just make sure to do a second dose 5-7 days later to account for hatching eggs.

Will prazi get all the flukes to fall off with in 2 hours? Or do they require longer exposure? I plan on doing a second round of prazi after the nfg treatment is done to account for any eggs or missed flukes.

I'm currious how quickly the prazi will get the flukes to spasm and fall off and if there is any benefit to longer exposure vs short exposure. I haven't heard much in regards to prazi dips.

 

[Big G]

Prazi does most of its work immediately on the flukes attached on the skin. But the longer exposure time of 24-48 hours allows for the Prazi to get at the more deeply attached flukes inside the gills that are sometimes shielded by the fish's mucous on the gills.

 

[ngoodermuth]

I’ve never done prazi as a “dip” but I have heard of it being done. I usually prefer to let mine go at least 24 hours before a waterchange, as personal preference, but I believe they begin to spasm almost instantly.

A heavily infested fish might react violently right after prazi is dosed, due to all of the worms seizing at once... part of the reason a fw dip is recommended first. One to confirm flukes are present, and two to remove the majority of the worms to make the treatment less stressful for the fish.

I don’t know EXACTLY how much time is needed, unfortunately. @4FordFamily or @Humblefish would probably know that one lol

 

[Biglurr54]

Well I transfered into a sterile tank and dosed with prazi. Tomorrow I will do a 50% change and continue the nfg and ttm. Upon inspection out of the tank, he looks great. He also was eating with gusto today before starting prazi. Hopefully that attitude continues.

 

[Biglurr54]

The angel is doing well. I am doing ttm as I wasn't able to complete 14 days in copper. I am transferring every 48 hrs. I use 10 gallon tanks for transfer so after 48 hrs there's risk of ammonia build up so transfers are easier than trying to manage ammonia.

Anyways. I have discovered something on the fish is dorsal fin. I'm wondering if it's a fluke. The fish supposedly had prazi treatment before I got it. I fw dipped and dosed it with Prazipro 7 days ago. I plan on doing a fw dip and dosing gc for the next couple of days.

The angel had a lymph on a fin earlier this week but that had resolved.

Thoughts?

 

[ngoodermuth]

Your fw dip will tell for sure, but I don’t think the spot in question is a fluke. At least from the photo, it looks more like the skin is actually raised. Were there flukes in the container after the first dip? Did you do a second dose of prazi between 5-7 days?

Unfortunately, I don’t know exactly what the lump is. Perhaps a small injury? Or a lesion of some sort (I have to go back and see what the reason was for the NFG treatment)

 

[Big G]

You posted that the angel had lympho earlier in the week. Lympho is a virus that does not go away. The fish will have it for its entire life. So what I'm thinking you are seeing there is a lympho nodule. While they are usually white or grey, they can be many colors if they appear under pigmented areas.

 

[Biglurr54]

You posted that the angel had lympho earlier in the week. Lympho is a virus that does not go away. The fish will have it for its entire life. So what I'm thinking you are seeing there is a lympho nodule. While they are usually white or grey, they can be many colors if they appear under pigmented areas.

That's what I like to hear. I was hoping for lympho but I thought they were all white. We'll see what happens today during the fresh water dip.

 

[Biglurr54]

Did a 5 min fw dip and no flukes. I'm doing a dose of general cure now and then a few rounds of metro with transfers. The fish seems great. It does still have the spot on it's dorsal fin but that is looking more like lymphos. Still not white though.