Quarantine tank questions

[larrysaltisfun]

Thank you

 

[larrysaltisfun]

Do you recommend prazi powder because of the increased risk of a bacterial bloom? Can you point me towards what brand would be good thank you.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Do you recommend prazi powder because of the increased risk of a bacterial bloom? Can you point me towards what brand would be good thank you.

Prazi powder has a decreased risk of bacterial blooms. I think you can get it on Amazon. Prazicleanse is one brand.

 

[MnFish1]

I’m getting ready to quarantine my fish for marine ich using copper Power

Questions:

I have six medium size tang all 4 inch or less and three small angels

You do not quarantine your fish 'for 'marine ich'. Instead you quarantine.

Can I use some of the existing water from the tank They are in as opposed to 100% brand new saltwater.

It makes not difference - if the parameters are the same

Realizing it may be a little more difficult to control copper levels is there an opinion as to when I can put a couple pieces of live rock in there to help seed bacteria

You should be checking ammonia - and doing water changes. IMHO

Am I better off getting two tanks at about a 55 gallon size given the fish load?

If you can do all of them in one tank do it

Is there an opinion as to whether or not, I should put a light on top or should daylight be sufficient in terms of feeding them?

daylight is sufficient

I’ve quarantined before, but it’s always been less fish and prophylactically never for treatment

thanks a lot fish medics

I think you will find it easier than you think!! Let us know what happens - quarantine is for fish without illness. You're running a so-called hospital tank

 

[larrysaltisfun]

I’m getting ready to quarantine my fish for marine ich using copper Power

Questions:

I have six medium size tang all 4 inch or less and three small angels

You do not quarantine your fish 'for 'marine ich'. Instead you quarantine.

Can I use some of the existing water from the tank They are in as opposed to 100% brand new saltwater.

It makes not difference - if the parameters are the same

Realizing it may be a little more difficult to control copper levels is there an opinion as to when I can put a couple pieces of live rock in there to help seed bacteria

You should be checking ammonia - and doing water changes. IMHO

Am I better off getting two tanks at about a 55 gallon size given the fish load?

If you can do all of them in one tank do it

Is there an opinion as to whether or not, I should put a light on top or should daylight be sufficient in terms of feeding them?

daylight is sufficient

I’ve quarantined before, but it’s always been less fish and prophylactically never for treatment

thanks a lot fish medics

I think you will find it easier than you think!! Let us know what happens - quarantine is for fish without illness. You're running a so-called hospital tank

@MnFish1

You asked me to keep you all apprised as to how things are going

Still don’t know if FISH had ICH because I only saw it briefly at 4 o’clock in the morning when looking at the fish under a AN iPhone LIGHT and saw either mucus cones or mucus cones mixed in with ICH on my purple tang but nothing appeared on the fins

Don’t know if I had a chronic fluke infection that finally got so bad that everybody was affected instead of my hippo tang which would only flash rarely and was never breathing heavily

At any rate, I set up (because I like to overdo things) a 55 gallon hospital tank and a 40 gallon hospital tank

I gambled a little bit and treated with PRazi along with copper because I didn’t wanna wait for 30 days to treat flukes From date I put the fish in.

Before quarantine They had largely stopped eating and were no longer hiding in the rocks.

None of them look particularly happy, but they are all now breathing Normally, I think splitting them up into two tanks This helped to decrease aggression since basically it’s six tangs and a dwarf angel.

But talk about expensive! Ammonia was out of control at first, and I was doing 70% water changes every 4 to 5 days which equated to about 60 gallons times three water changes so far for the two tanks

Happy to report that ammonia level is now 0 Four days after the last water change
Copper is stable at 2.33
I am dosing prazipro total of three doses five days apart per Jay Hemdal recommendation.

I am on day 19 of copper

With a 60 day fallow period brewing . I may go to hyposalinity at .012 in the event that I have prazi resistant flukes. will do that after I complete copper therapy. Then will ramp back up salinity as i prepare to reintroduce everybody to the display tank.

I may have mentioned in my previous post that I had taken out a bunch of the rock because it was difficult to physically remove Dino’s, which I was having a tough time battling as I thought with more swimming area and less surface area it would be easier to clean those off and siphon them into a 10 µm filter.

I’m hoping that the effective 60 day blackout in the tank as it remains fallow will help permanently. Eliminate the dinos. They are god-awful and worse in my opinion than Aiptasia


Now, thinking that prior to quarantining I may have further stressed out the fish because of lack of hiding places with six tangs I have re-introduced that rock which was sitting wet, but not circulating back into display tank. it’s interesting to know that nitrates which were normally about 15 had shot up to 72 as all of the material on the re-introduced live rock decayed, and temporarily caused a huge spike. Phosphate interestingly also spiked to a value too high for the HANNA ultralow reader to register

So as the fallow period Ticks on , my nitrates are now down from 71 back to 39. And I’ve got a phosphate reactor running.

Interestingly, my ammonia was zero the whole time as is there enough bacteria to immediately break down the ammonia, but the nitrates took a while to completely cycle on back down

Thanks to all the medics who gave advice

 

[spartanman22]

For what it’s worth I use rock and ceramic blocks in my QT and have for some time. I monitor copper closing and use Fritz Coppersafe. I find that the absorption of copper in porous media may impact initial doses but once you reach therapeutic levels it doesn’t require much if any adjustment outside of water changes. That being said I’m a big proponent of constant testing to verify. I’ve found this helps me regulate ammonia with some biological nitrogen cycle going on.

I’m also a fan of the Rubbermaid stock tanks for large volume QT. They’re cheap and readily available. It does make observation a little more difficult, but a 150 gallon Rubbermaid stock tank is like $100 at tractor supply.