RapidLED Onyx Lights setup to Prolifux 4

[Idoc]

Below is a picture of the wires that go from my RapidLED Onyx lights to an Apex DMV module to control the lights... that's how the previous owner had them setup. I want to hook up the lights to my GHL P4 controller. Is this the same connection/cord type the P4 uses on the 0-10v inputs? They are RJ45 connections.

Do I need a GHL YL2 splitter cable to only have to use one of the 0-10v slots available? Do all LED lights use 2 RJ45 connections? I would think it would only take 1...

Also, I have 2 Onyx lights that i will have daisy chained together to this one final connection cord.

 

[Support@GHLUSA]

The ProfiLux can certainly control this, via o-10v (L ports) - though our pin-out is different than the cable is wired.
Easiest solution would be to purchase the LBF-AP module, which will provide you with a screw terminal style interface for 2 channels.

https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/usa/product/lbf-ap/

 

[Idoc]

Thanks Marco! I'll get one of those ordered!

What is the YL-2 splitter used to do, then?

 

[Support@GHLUSA]

The LY2-x will take our dual channel port, and break it out to 2 individual channel ports. So by default L1/2 is channels 1 and 2 on one port. this would require a cable with a single plug, to wire to 2 different channels. With the YL2-x (Where x = length .. YL2-1 is 1m long, 1.5 is 1.5m etc) will provide you with 2 ports, for 2x single channel cables..

But being that you have a cable that is mean for a different controllers pinout, and is RJ45 rather than the GHL RJ12 style socket.
With the LBF-AP it plugs into the RJ12 on the controller side, and gives you a screw terminal for both channels broken out, you can take your existing cable, cut off the RJ45 end(s) and wire the leads direct, or if you're really handy with cabling and punchdown, could take a cable and keystone jack, and make an intermediary cable.

This video by @Ian Eisenberg does over the LBF-AP box usage, pretty simple.

 

[Idoc]

The LY2-x will take our dual channel port, and break it out to 2 individual channel ports. So by default L1/2 is channels 1 and 2 on one port. this would require a cable with a single plug, to wire to 2 different channels. With the YL2-x (Where x = length .. YL2-1 is 1m long, 1.5 is 1.5m etc) will provide you with 2 ports, for 2x single channel cables..

But being that you have a cable that is mean for a different controllers pinout, and is RJ45 rather than the GHL RJ12 style socket.
With the LBF-AP it plugs into the RJ12 on the controller side, and gives you a screw terminal for both channels broken out, you can take your existing cable, cut off the RJ45 end(s) and wire the leads direct, or if you're really handy with cabling and punchdown, could take a cable and keystone jack, and make an intermediary cable.

This video by @Ian Eisenberg does over the LBF-AP box usage, pretty simple.

Thanks...

I have a connection question though. The video for hooking up the Icecap shows one black wire which when stripped has 2 other wires inside that he connects to the LBF +/- terminals. My cable in the picture looks like it has 3 main wires (red, white, blue color codes in my original picture) and each of these strips out to have 2 wires (red and black) inside. So it looks like i have a total of 6 wires to attach to the LBF module. Do I combine all the red wires into one and attach to the LBF + terminal, and then combine all the black wires into one wire and attach to the LBF - terminal?

Another question... the LBF module has room for 2 connections inside. Would it be better to attach each of my lights individually to the LBF module, or connect the lights together in series and only connect one final connecting to the LBF module?

 

[Support@GHLUSA]

So based on some fast & loose research, it appears that the Onyx fixture has 3 channels (blue, white, mixed) - each channel is a single mono cable into the fixture, and 2 wires(+/-(g)) on the controller side. You could certainly tie 2 channels, or even all 3 together, and control off a single, however at that point you'll only see an intensity change, not color change. You could also try 2 of the channels combined, or simply get 2x of the LBF-AP adapters, and utilize 3 of the 4 channels it will provide terminal blocks for.

 

[Support@GHLUSA]

Another question... the LBF module has room for 2 connections inside. Would it be better to attach each of my lights individually to the LBF module, or connect the lights together in series and only connect one final connecting to the LBF module?

If the fixture allows piggy-backing/daisy-chaining, I'd utilize that offering

 

[Idoc]

Marco...thanks for bearing with me here! I'm very visual in my perception, lol. You explained above how to connect these with a LBF-AP module (and possibly 2). Attached is a drawing that I made to better allow me to understand what I will be doing. Please let me know if it is correct before I order the 2 LBF-AP modules.

1. I added a YL2 splitter before connecting to the Profilux...If I do this, will it allow me to use my lights on only 1 of the available 0-10v connections (yellow)? Or do I need to put one of the LBF-AP cable into the 1st 0-10v outlet and the other LBF-AP cable into the 2nd 0-10v outlet? I'm trying to conserve the connections if possible...I also have a Varios6 return pump that says it needs to connect to a 0-10v outlet as well on the controller!

2. My Varios6 return pump advertises that it is APEX ready...also mentions all other 0-10v controllers can also control it as well. I don't have any cables with the RJ45 phone-like jacks with the pump! The attached Quick Start guide for the pump shows a 3.5mm AudioJack connection required into the Varios6 controller. Will I need a different cable for that? Or would I bypass the Varios6 controller completely and plug the pump directly into the P4 controller?

And the Varios6 Return pump info:

 

[Support@GHLUSA]

Glad to help

Skip the YL2 splitter, other wise your LBF-AP #1 channel1 with be replicated to LBF-AP#2 Channel 1. Plug LBF-AP#1 into L1/2 and LBF-AP#2 into L3/4
At this point you'll be consuming/assigning:
LBF-AP #1
L1 = Light CH1 (WHITE)
L2 = Light CH2 (BLUE)
----
LBF-AP #2
L3 = Light CH3 (RED)
L4 = Open ... Varios6 pump

If Octo sells the cable, I would get it from them, and just wire to the LBF #2 Channel 2(L4), plug into the bottom of the octo controller and "bob's your uncle".

 

[Idoc]

Glad to help

Skip the YL2 splitter, other wise your LBF-AP #1 channel1 with be replicated to LBF-AP#2 Channel 1. Plug LBF-AP#1 into L1/2 and LBF-AP#2 into L3/4
At this point you'll be consuming/assigning:
LBF-AP #1
L1 = Light CH1 (WHITE)
L2 = Light CH2 (BLUE)
----
LBF-AP #2
L3 = Light CH3 (RED)
L4 = Open ... Varios6 pump

If Octo sells the cable, I would get it from them, and just wire to the LBF #2 Channel 2(L4), plug into the bottom of the octo controller and "bob's your uncle".

Perfect! I'll work on getting this ordered and set up!