Red Sea Max S-650 Bulkhead

[ZJedi945]

I recently pick up a RSM S-650 for a great price. Thing is it needs a few things to get it back to being an amazing tank. To me that's the fun of this hobby, so I jumped in with both feet. I am currently leak testing the tank and while there is nothing leaking... I noticed A LOT of silicone around the main drain "bulkhead" and I thought it was just a messy paint job. (since someone repainted the beautiful dark blue stand... white) The more I looked the more I saw and noticed it was ALL over where the bulkhead nut would be.

Now... I am in a tough spot. Do I replace the valve and main drain pipe with RS products and hope the bulkhead silicone job is good or do I replace it with a totally new bulkhead? I am already converting all lines from metric to imperial, so that doesn't worry me.

The only think holding me up is it looks like all 3 pipes are in one bulkhead piece. Can I just replace one or do I have to do all 3... hell is it even possible to do this?

Anyone with any information on this would be helping me out BIG TIME!

 

[SPR1968]

This is what mine looks like and this was taken a week or so ago when I was looking to link 2 systems together

I think all 3 pipes go into a single bulkhead part, and I don’t know if it can be replaced, or you can even get the part, I certainly couldn’t afford to mess around with it in a living system

Also check the actual sizes of the union connectors, The pipes are metric but the unions are not. The main down pipe is 40mm so you would expect a 40mm union. No it’s not because I had everything ready to connect up and fortunately did a test run, and the 40mm union was to big so don’t ask me what they’ve used!

Assuming its all water tight I would open that RS valve wide open, making it obsolete and install a gate valve lower down in the sump, Ive done that already.

Because of the unique nature of these systems there is only so much modification you can do, and in my case, any further requirements will mean a new tank, which I’ve already priced up.

Just let me know if you need anything else

 

[ZJedi945]

Thanks for your input... any information on this is going to be helpful. Messing around with a living system isn't usually a good idea so I get why you stopped.

The tank came with none of the downpipes with the other side of the unions. So I would have to buy replacements. That's another reason why I am thinking about looking into this bulkhead replacement, saves a bit of money.

 

[ZJedi945]

Doing some more digging... it looks like the 3 bulkhead piece is installed with silicone on the inside of the tank. Then there the holes under it are all the same. I have seen both 40mm and 42mm listed but nothing for sure. I think I might just go for broke here and start to tear into it once I drain it from the leak test.

I am going wait until I see how big the actual holes before I order bulkheads. I will update this once I know more. At least in the future this post will help some people out.

I do have one question... is the drain funnel thing worth keeping? AKA is it noisy?

 

[SPR1968]

Doing some more digging... it looks like the 3 bulkhead piece is installed with silicone on the inside of the tank. Then there the holes under it are all the same. I have seen both 40mm and 42mm listed but nothing for sure. I think I might just go for broke here and start to tear into it once I drain it from the leak test.

I am going wait until I see how big the actual holes before I order bulkheads. I will update this once I know more. At least in the future this post will help some people out.

I do have one question... is the drain funnel thing worth keeping? AKA is it noisy?

The drain is silent once tuned in which is easy, and it makes sense the bulkhead is sealed on the inside from the design and look of it.

It would be very helpful if you could take some pictures when your doing it so we can see what it looks like

 

[ZJedi945]

Well this surgery is NOT for the weak at heart... I will say that right away. This is also something that can not be done with a full tank. Empty sure... but if there is water in it... who knows what would happen. The BIG thing is you NEED to take your time and do not get frustrated.

First thing is you will need to use one of the vibrating multi-tools to complete this job.

To start with the pipes on the outside. Just cut them off as close as you can to the glass.

Move on to the funnel section, you need to cut the return line first. Remove that on the top and then start cutting the pipe below the funnel. You will need to cut section out to get to the main drain.

There are little braces a the bottom and at the top connecting ALL the pipes together. You will have to cut these to progress in removing everything. The photo below shows a brace on the far left. For the top funnel brace you will have to cut straight down through the funnel. The second photo is the lower brace and can be easily cut through.




Once you remove the funnel section you are able to start working on the bulkhead section. This is where you need to be careful. I put the multi-tools blade right on the glass to try and get a flush cut. You need to keep control of it to make sure not to damage the glass. Cut a little away at a time. Then use down cuts... not all the way through to score the plastic so you can lift up on it and break it off. Once you get the second one cut when you pry it the third one may come with it. (It did for me)



What you are left with is 3 holes of the same size. I didn't have my calipers but from the fittings I have with me currently. The holes are approx. 50mm.




Clean up as much silicone as you can from the holes. It was everywhere!!!! A nice new razor blade will make quick work of this.



All in all... it took about 60 minutes to cut everything off and get it cleaned up. The good thing is now I can put imperial bulkheads on and not have to worry about crazy adaptors. So that will save a few bucks! The downside to what I am seeing is I will ether us a 1 inch ABS or 1 1/4 Sch 80 bulkhead. I thought I would be able to fit more than that. GOOD thing I didn't buy anything yet.

 

[SPR1968]

Tell you what, you’ve made a fine job of that, and it’s very interesting to see what it looks like inside

You definitely wouldn’t want to do that with life in it!

 

[Wick]

any update? i might have to remove my bulkhead too and was wondering what you did. I unscrewed my bulkhead and didn't move anything then just retightened it ( hoping it doesn't leak ) still have to test it and hope it goes well.

 

[zer0salinity]

This is what mine looks like and this was taken a week or so ago when I was looking to link 2 systems together

I think all 3 pipes go into a single bulkhead part, and I don’t know if it can be replaced, or you can even get the part, I certainly couldn’t afford to mess around with it in a living system

Also check the actual sizes of the union connectors, The pipes are metric but the unions are not. The main down pipe is 40mm so you would expect a 40mm union. No it’s not because I had everything ready to connect up and fortunately did a test run, and the 40mm union was to big so don’t ask me what they’ve used!

Assuming its all water tight I would open that RS valve wide open, making it obsolete and install a gate valve lower down in the sump, Ive done that already.

Because of the unique nature of these systems there is only so much modification you can do, and in my case, any further requirements will mean a new tank, which I’ve already priced up.

Just let me know if you need anything else

Does Running the valve all the way open and having a spears gate valve still makes the system quiet? These redsea valves are annoying, you adjust it once and you end up adjusting it again because it starts gurgling again hours later.

 

[SPR1968]

Does Running the valve all the way open and having a spears gate valve still makes the system quiet? These redsea valves are annoying, you adjust it once and you end up adjusting it again because it starts gurgling again hours later.

Yes the gate valve keeps it quiet, it doesn’t make any difference to performance at all.

You still may need to adjust the new gate valve from time to time depending on your main pumps performance and flow, but I only touch it probably once a month