reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
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- controller raspberry-pi
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Erica-Renee
Valuable Member
no 12v using uln2308 between gpio pins and ground pins on pumps .12v power supply to power pumps all connected together .shared ground from uln ,ps and pi . not using servo board for power
basically like on relay to isolate the 12v
OP
OP
got it. those uln2xxx are very handy.
In case you ever want to try anything else, the l293ds are also good, they'll let you control the direction of pumps as well,
OP
OP
Min stands for minimum dimness that is allowed, when the computed value (from automatic cycle) is below the min (aka min) reef-pi will set the value to 0 (or start if set). This is to safeguard lights from flickering at low voltage. For example you cant dim kessil to very low, (13% is lowest that i have experienced), below this (that is 1.3V) kessil lights will start flickering. The same thing exist for several other LED lights as well. So, I recommend using the "min" (aka minimum) threshold to use in such cases.
The "start" configuration is set the origin or start of the dimming range. Normally it 0-99, if you set start to 1 then it will be 1-99. Reason start exist is, in some wiring scenarios you may see 0% pwm leading to 100% brightness (the underlying reason being some chips implement the variation as a cycle).
To summarize: When you make a lighting controller test it with 0-100% variation using the reef-pi slider, if you see your light is full bright at 0%, use the "start" configuration (set it to 1) to ensure the light is indeed off when you set 0% in slider (since reef-pi will now set 1 instead of 0)
If you see the light is flickering at low %, then increase the dimming % till you see its not flickering anymore, and thats your "min" configuration.
Does this make sense?
sjeff35
Active Member
Erica-Renee
Valuable Member
I
actually have a few of them , Will have to check it out , Its always exciting learning new IC's
sjeff35
Active Member
Got my first project printed. A fan bracket for my rimless tank. I found the drawing on Thingivese and tweaked it a little. WOW, learned so much about 3D printing just from this. I had several fails on this, but with some help of a FB group dedicated to my brand of printer I was able to figure it out this morning. This looks much better than my hack job I did last weekend!!!
OP
OP
It will be awesome if you can publish the build files and bomGot my first project printed. A fan bracket for my rimless tank. I found the drawing on Thingivese and tweaked it a little. WOW, learned so much about 3D printing just from this. I had several fails on this, but with some help of a FB group dedicated to my brand of printer I was able to figure it out this morning. This looks much better than my hack job I did last weekend!!!
I would love to build one ... once I have the space
sjeff35
Active Member
It will be awesome if you can publish the build files and bom
Here's the link to Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2333947
If you let me know how think your glass is and how thick/wide your fans are I would be more than happy to print you up as many as you need. I have some more colors of both PLA and ABS coming today and I think some Red PETG.
Erica-Renee
Valuable Member
can you print me a new,Garage PleaseHere's the link to Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2333947
If you let me know how think your glass is and how thick/wide your fans are I would be more than happy to print you up as many as you need. I have some more colors of both PLA and ABS coming today and I think some Red PETG.
sjeff35
Active Member
Erica-Renee
Valuable Member
Here's the link to Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2333947
If you let me know how think your glass is and how thick/wide your fans are I would be more than happy to print you up as many as you need. I have some more colors of both PLA and ABS coming today and I think some Red PETG.
I suspect you're already aware, but just in case. PLA will break down in saltwater but is safe otherwise, and ABS is consider "reef safe'ish", though there are some question regarding the pigments. I personally believe that natural PET should be safe as well. And everything but ASA will suffer to various degrees under the our lights.
Ryan115
Well-Known Member
Have you experienced plastics suffering under aquarium lights?
I would expect most of the photo degradation should be limited by LEDs. Generally any UV LEDs that are used are barely below 400nm.
Where as halides would have some emission below 350, which even still is not out of the UV-A range.
I've had "browning" and an item becoming brittle under a mix of MH and T5. I couldn't say if it was from UV only or if the heat contributed. My direct experience was only with was some white ABS, but I have read reports of other materials degrading, and since it was on the internet it has to be true. I would suspect that splash guard(s) material and presence would have an effect as well. Even sun lite in the room may have a contributing factor. Right now, I have an ABS adapter to allow my Kessils to fit into the center of a T5 fixture and approximately 3 mo in, they are showing no discoloring but slight curling at some of the edges. I am just determined to watch the stuff around the tank pretty carefully. I am using ASA outside in direct sun lite with no discoloration going on 4 mo now, but don't know if it's reef safe or not.
Ryan115
Well-Known Member
I haven't printed anything for the tank yet, but I have an adapter for my flag holder outside that was printed in white ABS. No discoloration yet, but I couldn't tell you if it is brittle or not as I never mess with it.
I have a spool of ASA that I have not even opened yet. How was it to print with?
That's one of the issues with 3D printing, none of the filaments are the same from one company to the next, even different colors from the same company print different, and we have no idea what they actually put in the filaments. ASA printed very much like ABS maybe a little bit "smoother" but same temps, still needed a slurry on the bed, etc. For the tank, I believe that PLA is the "safest" but it degrades withing a couple of months, starts to biodegrade (no personal experience here). I understand that some people have used them as a carbon source, i.e. bio-balls.
Erica-Renee
Valuable Member
Can someone go out to the Garage and get a propane tank. Hook it to generator and start it for me Please.. Our power is out. and AND Well.. Its Storming something fierce ..
Yes I feel Like a Cave Woman.. Hope Bonnie does not start dragging me by my hair..
Yes I feel Like a Cave Woman.. Hope Bonnie does not start dragging me by my hair..
I've had quite a few PLA parts in my tank for close to two years straight now with no obvious change. I check them regularly to make sure but nothing has happened. There's actually a lot of coraline growing on them.
Funny thing is i actually used PLA to print a strainer for a DIY biopellet reactor which i had in use for a few months (6-8 if i remember correctly). I refilled the biopellets a few times but the strainer came out the same way it went in when i decommissioned the reactor.
It is true that PLA is biodegradable but the level that that happens and the speed at which it happens has been extremely exaggerated around the interwebs. It's a wonderful material to work with, it's absolutely safe and cheap to come by. I would not use it on any project that will be outside in direct sunlight but in my reef i have no problem.
Maybe it's the brand of PLA I'm using like you said, who knows...
Just thought I'd share my personal experience on this.
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