reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

DirtDiggler2823

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Think of it as my way to keep my own hands off from my tanks :) , while still be involved heavily in reefing.
There are other folks who are now doing bulk of the coding (@Michael Lane & @Zekth )
Well, I'm getting close to plumbing my tank, so I'd like to get this all done so I can install the probes before I add water. This project is amazing, and it's giving me something else to do with my hands as well, so I appreciate everyone involved in this.
 
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Ranjib

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I just discovered those a couple of days ago. I shared them on FB. Thanks Ranjib!
Thank you :)
I plan to write a full series, this is the third one, at least five more to come (ato, lighting, ph, doser and finally AIO) leading up to Thankgiving, when final 2.0 release will happen. Should be fun :)
 

DirtDiggler2823

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Thank you :)
I plan to write a full series, this is the third one, at least five more to come (ato, lighting, ph, doser and finally AIO) leading up to Thankgiving, when final 2.0 release will happen. Should be fun :)
I found some previous info on the ATO, and that was one of the first things i planned on integrating.
 

pickupman66

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I plan to start to playing with some break outs for jebao pump hook up. Something that marries the 24v power to a pwm signal that then connects right to the jebao connector. Use the jebao power supply.
 
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Ranjib

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I plan to start to playing with some break outs for jebao pump hook up. Something that marries the 24v power to a pwm signal that then connects right to the jebao connector. Use the jebao power supply.
You should be able to use any logic level powermosfet to control 24V volt with 5v pwm signal. I do the same for my moonlight. I think i have shared the circuit image in past, i can post it again if you need
 

sector9

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Here is some additional info about the dimming circuits that I installed in my SB reef lights

I used the circuit from @Ryan115 from this post reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Here is a picture of my circuit. My perfboard doesn't have any traces on it so all the wiring was point to point on the backside (connections on back of board are in red below). The advantage of using the specific connectors listed below is that you don't have to cut any wires on the SB reef light black box so it is trivial to back to stock (if you have a different black box, I recommend opening your light to find out what type of connectors you will need before ordering!)

breadboard traces labels.jpg



Parts list:
2 NPN transistors (I used 2N2222A transistors)
2 LM7810 voltage regulators
2 3-pin JST XH (2.5mm pitch) male connectors
1 2-pin JST SM (2.5mm pitch) male connector
2 1k ohm resistors
2 10k ohm resistors
1 solderable perfboard
A three wire input connector of your choice to connect PWM from the PCA9685 on Reef-pi to the dimming circuit. I used Ethernet cable and JST connectors but other people use headphone cable and jacks

I made a video to help explain more about the circuit, wiring, and functionality


breadboard traces.jpg
 
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Ranjib

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Here is some additional info about the dimming circuits that I installed in my SB reef lights

I used the circuit from @Ryan115 from this post reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Here is a picture of my circuit. My perfboard doesn't have any traces on it so all the wiring was point to point on the backside (connections on back of board are in red below). The advantage of using the specific connectors listed below is that you don't have to cut any wires on the SB reef light black box so it is trivial to back to stock (if you have a different black box, I recommend opening your light to find out what type of connectors you will need before ordering!)

breadboard traces labels.jpg



Parts list:
2 NPN transistors (I used 2N2222A transistors)
2 LM7810 voltage regulators
2 3-pin JST XH (2.5mm pitch) male connectors
1 2-pin JST SM (2.5mm pitch) male connector
2 1k ohm resistors
2 10k ohm resistors
1 solderable perfboard
A three wire input connector of your choice to connect PWM from the PCA9685 on Reef-pi to the dimming circuit. I used Ethernet cable and JST connectors but other people use headphone cable and jacks

I made a video to help explain more about the circuit, wiring, and functionality


breadboard traces.jpg
Very nice. Its similar to the recommended kessil circuit, except it uses lm7810 instead of lm2596 to generate 10V DC current. I wonder if you need two of them,
Thank you for sharing, this will be helpful to others
 

pickupman66

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Well I'm thinking something similar to what you guys did for pwm for the lighting. Using that hardware and then feeding it to the jebao adapter. For programming, need to have them operate at a % for x time and be able to alternate that between multiple outputs in succession or to even setup different schedule per outlet.

Ease of just using the jebao adapter of providing a higher amp 24v supply to lessen power bricks.
 

rroselavy

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Adafruit just published the third reef-pi guide, temperature controller :) ,
https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-guide-3-temperature-controller
Ranjib-

I also found your Adafruit articles. Very inspiring! I can't wait for the pH installment.

One question: Why do you use a 1/8" 3.5mm Audio Jack Connector for the temp probe if it risks shorting the controller. Wouldn't a different style connector be more suitable?

Thanks much for the hard work.
 
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Ranjib

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Ranjib-

I also found your Adafruit articles. Very inspiring! I can't wait for the pH installment.

One question: Why do you use a 1/8" 3.5mm Audio Jack Connector for the temp probe if it risks shorting the controller. Wouldn't a different style connector be more suitable?

Thanks much for the hard work.
You are right an rj45, rj9, rj11 , mini-xlr , mini-din all of them are better.. but none are as common, cheap and abundant as 3.5 mm jacks. They are also easy to solder and they do not require any special equipment to connect (rj11,9,45 all requires special crimping tools). This is why I went with audio jack. When I started I didnt know, later I learned and tried different things, and they work too. But I realized, this projects original goal was to keep things affordable and easy, and I found if we are little careful (which we can afford to expect, since its a DIY thing, average users will know a lot during the build phase) we can probably get away with it.
That said, anyone who is keen enough, can certainly go with better connectors, and we make it abundantly clear that this is a good idea as well. But not required.
I hope it makes sense :) . Let me know if you all think it's not right, and I should instead go with some other connectors , cause I am actually thinking recommending the same for ato as well (i.e. connect the optical water level sensors using 4 pole TRS jacks).

On a side note, this whole connector topic is pretty fascinating in itself. I have spent weeks reading, testing and tinkering with different connectors. I would agree and accept openly that this is not a solved thing yet....at least for reef-pi.
 
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Ranjib

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Ranjib-

I also found your Adafruit articles. Very inspiring! I can't wait for the pH installment.

One question: Why do you use a 1/8" 3.5mm Audio Jack Connector for the temp probe if it risks shorting the controller. Wouldn't a different style connector be more suitable?

Thanks much for the hard work.
And thank you for the kind words, I and the rest of the dev team truly appreciate all the support you all provide.
 
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Ranjib

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Lady ada talking about reef-pi part 3 , temperature controller guide (at 27:50):
 
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MaccaPopEye

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You are right an rj45, rj9, rj11 , mini-xlr , mini-din all of them are better.. but none are as common, cheap and abundant as 3.5 mm jacks. They are also easy to solder and they do not require any special equipment to connect (rj11,9,45 all requires special crimping tools). This is why I went with audio jack. When I started I didnt know, later I learned and tried different things, and they work too. But I realized, this projects original goal was to keep things affordable and easy, and I found if we are little careful (which we can afford to expect, since its a DIY thing, average users will know a lot during the build phase) we can probably get away with it.
That said, anyone who is keen enough, can certainly go with better connectors, and we make it abundantly clear that this is a good idea as well. But not required.
I hope it makes sense :) . Let me know if you all think it's not right, and I should instead go with some other connectors , cause I am actually thinking recommending the same for ato as well (i.e. connect the optical water level sensors using 4 pole TRS jacks).

On a side note, this whole connector topic is pretty fascinating in itself. I have spent weeks reading, testing and tinkering with different connectors. I would agree and accept openly that this is not a solved thing yet....at least for reef-pi.
I understand the benefits of 3.5mm audio jacks. But my vote is with RJ-45 connectors. The crimping tool is an added cost but eBay & Amazon have lots of affordable ones and it's a 1 off cost.

Once you have a crimping tool the actual RJ-45 connectors (and sockets) are pretty dirt cheap (from China at least, I don't know how much they are in the US).

If you are doing a full Reef-Pi build I'd say RJ-45 connectors + a crimper would cost barely more (if that) than 3.5mm audio jacks.
 

pickupman66

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Rj-45 can be done without a tool. You can use a standard network cable. The little blocks for the female ends are numbered and come with a punchdown tool. A cheap one but it works. Then i used a breakout board that was also numbered in order. Worked like a charm!
 

Ryan115

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Here is some additional info about the dimming circuits that I installed in my SB reef lights

I used the circuit from @Ryan115 from this post reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Here is a picture of my circuit. My perfboard doesn't have any traces on it so all the wiring was point to point on the backside (connections on back of board are in red below). The advantage of using the specific connectors listed below is that you don't have to cut any wires on the SB reef light black box so it is trivial to back to stock (if you have a different black box, I recommend opening your light to find out what type of connectors you will need before ordering!)

breadboard traces labels.jpg



Parts list:
2 NPN transistors (I used 2N2222A transistors)
2 LM7810 voltage regulators
2 3-pin JST XH (2.5mm pitch) male connectors
1 2-pin JST SM (2.5mm pitch) male connector
2 1k ohm resistors
2 10k ohm resistors
1 solderable perfboard
A three wire input connector of your choice to connect PWM from the PCA9685 on Reef-pi to the dimming circuit. I used Ethernet cable and JST connectors but other people use headphone cable and jacks

I made a video to help explain more about the circuit, wiring, and functionality


breadboard traces.jpg
I am glad that this is working for you. I have been toying around with the idea of modifying the circuit to add a channel cutoff utilizing the 3rd wire from the dimmer to the driver. I have the 32" basic and I wired all of the power into a single plug so that I can control the unit from a single relay. However since the channels will not dim to 0, I would like another way to turn them off individually without using extra relays/plugs.
Also, here is a fritzing diagram of the circuit to help others.
Custom Dimming Circuit Updated.jpg


Very nice. Its similar to the recommended kessil circuit, except it uses lm7810 instead of lm2596 to generate 10V DC current. I wonder if you need two of them,
Thank you for sharing, this will be helpful to others
I would have to look at it again, but since you are essentially shorting the output of the 10v to GND through the NPN, I think you would have issues trying to run it through a single 10V regulator. I want to mock this up now though.

You are right an rj45, rj9, rj11 , mini-xlr , mini-din all of them are better.. but none are as common, cheap and abundant as 3.5 mm jacks. They are also easy to solder and they do not require any special equipment to connect (rj11,9,45 all requires special crimping tools). This is why I went with audio jack. When I started I didnt know, later I learned and tried different things, and they work too. But I realized, this projects original goal was to keep things affordable and easy, and I found if we are little careful (which we can afford to expect, since its a DIY thing, average users will know a lot during the build phase) we can probably get away with it.
That said, anyone who is keen enough, can certainly go with better connectors, and we make it abundantly clear that this is a good idea as well. But not required.
I hope it makes sense :) . Let me know if you all think it's not right, and I should instead go with some other connectors , cause I am actually thinking recommending the same for ato as well (i.e. connect the optical water level sensors using 4 pole TRS jacks).

On a side note, this whole connector topic is pretty fascinating in itself. I have spent weeks reading, testing and tinkering with different connectors. I would agree and accept openly that this is not a solved thing yet....at least for reef-pi.
Am I missing something on how these have shorted out for other people?
If the VDC is on the tip conductor of the jack, there should be no way for it to hit any other conductor. The other two conductors are the data pin and GND. What am I missing?
 

DirtDiggler2823

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You are right an rj45, rj9, rj11 , mini-xlr , mini-din all of them are better.. but none are as common, cheap and abundant as 3.5 mm jacks. They are also easy to solder and they do not require any special equipment to connect (rj11,9,45 all requires special crimping tools). This is why I went with audio jack. When I started I didnt know, later I learned and tried different things, and they work too. But I realized, this projects original goal was to keep things affordable and easy, and I found if we are little careful (which we can afford to expect, since its a DIY thing, average users will know a lot during the build phase) we can probably get away with it.
That said, anyone who is keen enough, can certainly go with better connectors, and we make it abundantly clear that this is a good idea as well. But not required.
I hope it makes sense :) . Let me know if you all think it's not right, and I should instead go with some other connectors , cause I am actually thinking recommending the same for ato as well (i.e. connect the optical water level sensors using 4 pole TRS jacks).

On a side note, this whole connector topic is pretty fascinating in itself. I have spent weeks reading, testing and tinkering with different connectors. I would agree and accept openly that this is not a solved thing yet....at least for reef-pi.
I work in IT, and have access to crimpers and the such. Might go with rj45 for my build, but it's been a while since ive done any soldering, so i might go with what you suggested as well.
 
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