Thank you :-)
I found some previous info on the ATO, and that was one of the first things i planned on integrating.
You should be able to use any logic level powermosfet to control 24V volt with 5v pwm signal. I do the same for my moonlight. I think i have shared the circuit image in past, i can post it again if you need
Here is some additional info about the dimming circuits that I installed in my SB reef lights
I used the circuit from @Ryan115 from this post reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
Here is a picture of my circuit. My perfboard doesn't have any traces on it so all the wiring was point to point on the backside (connections on back of board are in red below). The advantage of using the specific connectors listed below is that you don't have to cut any wires on the SB reef light black box so it is trivial to back to stock (if you have a different black box, I recommend opening your light to find out what type of connectors you will need before ordering!)
Parts list:
2 NPN transistors (I used 2N2222A transistors)
2 LM7810 voltage regulators
2 3-pin JST XH (2.5mm pitch) male connectors
1 2-pin JST SM (2.5mm pitch) male connector
2 1k ohm resistors
2 10k ohm resistors
1 solderable perfboard
A three wire input connector of your choice to connect PWM from the PCA9685 on Reef-pi to the dimming circuit. I used Ethernet cable and JST connectors but other people use headphone cable and jacks
I made a video to help explain more about the circuit, wiring, and functionality
You are right an rj45, rj9, rj11 , mini-xlr , mini-din all of them are better.. but none are as common, cheap and abundant as 3.5 mm jacks. They are also easy to solder and they do not require any special equipment to connect (rj11,9,45 all requires special crimping tools). This is why I went with audio jack. When I started I didnt know, later I learned and tried different things, and they work too. But I realized, this projects original goal was to keep things affordable and easy, and I found if we are little careful (which we can afford to expect, since its a DIY thing, average users will know a lot during the build phase) we can probably get away with it.
And thank you for the kind words, I and the rest of the dev team truly appreciate all the support you all provide.
I understand the benefits of 3.5mm audio jacks. But my vote is with RJ-45 connectors. The crimping tool is an added cost but eBay & Amazon have lots of affordable ones and it's a 1 off cost.
Here is some additional info about the dimming circuits that I installed in my SB reef lights
I used the circuit from @Ryan115 from this post reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
Here is a picture of my circuit. My perfboard doesn't have any traces on it so all the wiring was point to point on the backside (connections on back of board are in red below). The advantage of using the specific connectors listed below is that you don't have to cut any wires on the SB reef light black box so it is trivial to back to stock (if you have a different black box, I recommend opening your light to find out what type of connectors you will need before ordering!)
Parts list:
2 NPN transistors (I used 2N2222A transistors)
2 LM7810 voltage regulators
2 3-pin JST XH (2.5mm pitch) male connectors
1 2-pin JST SM (2.5mm pitch) male connector
2 1k ohm resistors
2 10k ohm resistors
1 solderable perfboard
A three wire input connector of your choice to connect PWM from the PCA9685 on Reef-pi to the dimming circuit. I used Ethernet cable and JST connectors but other people use headphone cable and jacks
I made a video to help explain more about the circuit, wiring, and functionality
I would have to look at it again, but since you are essentially shorting the output of the 10v to GND through the NPN, I think you would have issues trying to run it through a single 10V regulator. I want to mock this up now though.
I work in IT, and have access to crimpers and the such. Might go with rj45 for my build, but it's been a while since ive done any soldering, so i might go with what you suggested as well.
Go for it. If the rj45 route is easier for you.
I can understand.
I have ordered this exact connector, and another rj45 with individual female sockets. These cost at least 8$ and will take some real estate. Mine didnt came with any punchdown tool :-/ .Rj-45 can be done without a tool. You can use a standard network cable. The little blocks for the female ends are numbered and come with a punchdown tool. A cheap one but it works. Then i used a breakout board that was also numbered in order. Worked like a charm!
I did some research on this , and from my understanding its ok to connect multiple lm2596 GND.I am glad that this is working for you. I have been toying around with the idea of modifying the circuit to add a channel cutoff utilizing the 3rd wire from the dimmer to the driver. I have the 32" basic and I wired all of the power into a single plug so that I can control the unit from a single relay. However since the channels will not dim to 0, I would like another way to turn them off individually without using extra relays/plugs.
Also, here is a fritzing diagram of the circuit to help others.
I would have to look at it again, but since you are essentially shorting the output of the 10v to GND through the NPN, I think you would have issues trying to run it through a single 10V regulator. I want to mock this up now though.
Am I missing something on how these have shorted out for other people?
If the VDC is on the tip conductor of the jack, there should be no way for it to hit any other conductor. The other two conductors are the data pin and GND. What am I missing?
