reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[LionHeart2017]

How would you go about powering different dc voltages?

Is a buck converter suitable, I'm thinking not, for tank equipment I'm talking, I have 4 or more things that are different dc voltage, highest being 24v for return pump, 24v power head, 12v ago, 12 volt doser, wanting to cut down on plugs and mess and was going to go with 24v 200w switching power supply, how would I be able to get 12v out as well?

 

[Ryan115]

You may be able to get away with buck converters for the 12V systems, do you know how much current each one pulls?
You can get more powerful buck converters than the standard LM2596.
But the LM2596s are cheap and easy.

 

[LionHeart2017]

You may be able to get away with buck converters for the 12V systems, do you know how much current each one pulls?
You can get more powerful buck converters than the standard LM2596.
But the LM2596s are cheap and easy.

Well the dcp8000 I have is the most power hungry at up to 65w and sw8 is up to 23w at 24v for them, the other 12 volt stuff is I'm guessing pretty low powered being a ato pump and a aqua medic doser, I was looking at this
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/253654775400
Total of 100w but I know I only run my dcp8000 at 11w according to the display and the sw8 is on its lowest setting so should think at 8w, this to me should work fine, but I'm not sure 100%

 

[rushbattle]

You guys are thinking like me. I hate all these cheap power supplies all over the place. Need a standardized DC voltage to run the whole system. I am just about there with my tanks, but I still have 24V and 36V. And then the 48V supply for the LEDs but they need their own power supply anyhow.

But the buck converters are not going to step down that well at higher power. At least the ones I've seen. I think 100w is pushing it for sure. Will need quite a bit of heat shedding. I'll stick around to see how this works out, hope it goes well!

 

[LionHeart2017]

You guys are thinking like me. I hate all these cheap power supplies all over the place. Need a standardized DC voltage to run the whole system. I am just about there with my tanks, but I still have 24V and 36V. And then the 48V supply for the LEDs but they need their own power supply anyhow.

But the buck converters are not going to step down that well at higher power. At least the ones I've seen. I think 100w is pushing it for sure. Will need quite a bit of heat shedding. I'll stick around to see how this works out, hope it goes well!

Yeah, the smaller buck converters aren't going to handle it, but these plugs need replacing as they take up space and are never really tidy, ill probably get a couple of the ones I linked above and try them out, all my mains and dc supplies I want in one lockable enclosure to really tidy things up and also get them away from 80 gallons of saltwaer

 

[Ranjib]

How would you go about powering different dc voltages?

Is a buck converter suitable, I'm thinking not, for tank equipment I'm talking, I have 4 or more things that are different dc voltage, highest being 24v for return pump, 24v power head, 12v ago, 12 volt doser, wanting to cut down on plugs and mess and was going to go with 24v 200w switching power supply, how would I be able to get 12v out as well?

I like lm2596. You can daisy chain them (share GND) and use one for each required voltage, and have only one input power adapter for the controller (the highest voltage required). I have been able to do this with only one issue, PWM signal generated using this shows high frequency ripples. I believe I have to throw in some capacitors. This is not recommended beyond 24w

 

[rushbattle]

I like lm2596. You can daisy chain them (share GND) and use one for each required voltage, and have only one input power adapter for the controller (the highest voltage required). I have been able to do this with only one issue, PWM signal generated using this shows high frequency ripples. I believe I have to throw in some capacitors. This is not recommended beyond 24w

Right, it's good for smaller tanks. I have some 100w return pumps, but I guess they could run on the rail itself as they are 36V. My Tunze Stream 3s are higher power than that also, for example, and run on 24V.

 

[ScottBrew]

You guys are thinking like me. I hate all these cheap power supplies all over the place. Need a standardized DC voltage to run the whole system. I am just about there with my tanks, but I still have 24V and 36V. And then the 48V supply for the LEDs but they need their own power supply anyhow.

But the buck converters are not going to step down that well at higher power. At least the ones I've seen. I think 100w is pushing it for sure. Will need quite a bit of heat shedding. I'll stick around to see how this works out, hope it goes well!

Kind of my mindset, get rid of all the power bricks. I put a single 24v 350w Mean Well power supply to run my lights. I want to see what effect a DC motor has on the lights if I add to the same supply, may need to add some capacitors to the lights if it's an issue. I'm personally a fan of a separate power supply for each voltage but that means allocating more room for each supply, not so bad if the supplies are sized for the loads but that doesn't leave much room for future upgrade power requirements!

 

[Ranjib]

I have looked at traco for higher wattage multi output (upto 3 different dc voltage), they are very good , available in enclosed packages, but bit expensive . I am yet to cross this bridge. I’ll be investigating on the pwm / ripple issue in the meantime

 

[Ranjib]

Kind of my mindset, get rid of all the power bricks. I put a single 24v 350w Mean Well power supply to run my lights. I want to see what effect a DC motor has on the lights if I add to the same supply, may need to add some capacitors to the lights if it's an issue. I'm personally a fan of a separate power supply for each voltage but that means allocating more room for each supply, not so bad if the supplies are sized for the loads but that doesn't leave much room for future upgrade power requirements!

I had ordered one of the pico psu as well, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PI6Q6K4 but didn’t get a chance to test out.

 

[ScottBrew]

I have looked at traco for higher wattage multi output (upto 3 different dc voltage), they are very good , available in enclosed packages, but bit expensive . I am yet to cross this bridge. I’ll be investigating on the pwm / ripple issue in the meantime

I just looked up pricing on the Power One (now Bel Power) brand supplies that the systems I work on use frequently. Nevermind, could buy an Apex Fusion for the cost of a multi volt supply! Yikes!

 

[rushbattle]

Kind of my mindset, get rid of all the power bricks. I put a single 24v 350w Mean Well power supply to run my lights. I want to see what effect a DC motor has on the lights if I add to the same supply, may need to add some capacitors to the lights if it's an issue. I'm personally a fan of a separate power supply for each voltage but that means allocating more room for each supply, not so bad if the supplies are sized for the loads but that doesn't leave much room for future upgrade power requirements!

Yup, one rail (meanwell) for each voltage seems like the ideal! I figure just run an oversized supply to allow for more demand, but that hard to predict. My opinion is that the primary benefit is the high quality supply in the meanwell. They are pretty reliability.

 

[ScottBrew]

Yup, one rail (meanwell) for each voltage seems like the ideal! I figure just run an oversized supply to allow for more demand, but that hard to predict. My opinion is that the primary benefit is the high quality supply in the meanwell. They are pretty reliability.

My reef-pi has only been up for a bit over a month but the Mean Well supply's, also have a 5vdc Mean Well for pi, seem very stable.

 

[Johan Fe Scheepers]

My controller don't show the drop down for sensor on the Temp tab, any ideas?

reef-pi V2.0
Latest software on a Pi 3

 

[b4tn]

My controller don't show the drop down for sensor on the Temp tab, any ideas?

reef-pi V2.0
Latest software on a Pi 3

Your sensor is not being detected. Check wiring and make sure the sensor is wired correctly or not shorted.

 

[Diamond1]

My controller don't show the drop down for sensor on the Temp tab, any ideas?

reef-pi V2.0
Latest software on a Pi 3

Make sure you have 1 wire enabled.

 

[pickupman66]

As I am contemplating the build for my pump controller I had a thought that I wanted to add indicator LEDs. Does the pwm board that we are using have enough power to light up an indicator LED by just using the pwm and ground pins? I don't want to build anyting complicated if possible.

 

[Ranjib]

As I am contemplating the build for my pump controller I had a thought that I wanted to add indicator LEDs. Does the pwm board that we are using have enough power to light up an indicator LED by just using the pwm and ground pins? I don't want to build anyting complicated if possible.

It is recommended to not use more than 20ma from individual GPIO. There are few leds that draw less than 5ma, you can use those.

 

[theatrus]

As I am contemplating the build for my pump controller I had a thought that I wanted to add indicator LEDs. Does the pwm board that we are using have enough power to light up an indicator LED by just using the pwm and ground pins? I don't want to build anyting complicated if possible.

The PCA chips are actually designed for direct LED control, so plenty.

 

[dmolavi]

Following this with great interest..need something to fill the time when i'm off work for 11 days over the holidays :)

quick question - i use a BuildMyLED and ReefBrite LED on my tank. Would ReefPi be able to control the dimming, etc on these? Otherwise, I just temp/pH monitoring (not control) and pump control (jebao rw4)...