reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

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Ranjib

Ranjib

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Some updates on the wave maker test. On a sad note, the 12V submercible pumps were not variable speed. They didnt run on PWM signal. I dont know if they would rather respond to analog (0-12V) or they are just fixed speed. I'll figure it out later, if they do work in analog speed, I'll take the analog path on ciruit side.

But even without the PWM support, I was able to kinda use those pumps straight by supplying entire 12V. The way I did was pretty simple, just disable pwm module in kernel config, declare GPIO 18 and 18 (which is feeding L293d en1/en2 pins) as normal outlets in reef-pi and instead of pwm profile, use timers. Though I dont have the variable speed features, now with switching offloaded to l293d, I can do lot more aggressive (5 or 15 second pulses) without worrying about relay's failing or click noises. I am planning to use this as wavemekar, as intended, but with times instead of pwm profiles. I have tested my dosing heads also, and they work just fine. Which means I can use this exact controller to control any two dosing pumps. All of this will only involve couple of software tweaks. The hardware/circuit/enclosure is reusable as it is. I like this.

Pumps:

Build
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Tank and pumps (ignore the clutter :))

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The dosing unit
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I made a handy male -male barrel connector for pump or dosing unit
Off to the next set of things ...

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Best reef aquarium LED lighting
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Ranjib

Ranjib

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Does anyone know what this email alert is caused by? The probe is still working so I am not sure why it says it failed.

20190910_100151.jpg
It means the sensor reading has failed crc check. Sometime this happens due to bad probe or connection issue , which results in data corruption causing failure in checksum . Pi indicates this by “yes” when checksum verification pass. Reef-pi is just showing that error , and complaining that it’s expecting a yes at the end of the reading file. This also means the sensor is present and detected , and reef-pi is also able to read it.
 

buddy.

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It means the sensor reading has failed crc check. Sometime this happens due to bad probe or connection issue , which results in data corruption causing failure in checksum . Pi indicates this by “yes” when checksum verification pass. Reef-pi is just showing that error , and complaining that it’s expecting a yes at the end of the reading file. This also means the sensor is present and detected , and reef-pi is also able to read it.
Thanks @Ranjib . Do you mean a physical wiring connection or something to do with the data connecting?

I am also getting these email alerts occasionally. Also sometimes a negative temperature of something silly like -1000 degrees. Temps are in C.
out of range.png



Here is my temperature page in reef-pi. Does it look correct? Just ignore all of the graph before the heater readings, this was when I had a failed probe. You can see the spike where it alerted me to 85 degrees.
sump.png
 

Bigtrout

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Those spikes look similar to what i was getting when i had the wonky power supply throwing interference.

@Ranjib means the data is getting corrupted occasionally. This could be from loose wiring, or some type of interference. Check and double check the wiring. Also check the routing of your sensor wiring. Keep it away from any AC wiring or motor/pump wires.
 
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burningbaal

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Anyone know of a black box LED that is controllable? I want to get a few black box LEDs for my future 180g, but want to be able to ramp each unit (expecting 3-6 of them, depending on wattage) up individually, and to control an actinic type apart from the daylight. two channels would be fine for me, I just want to control the brightness of each of the two channels individually so I can get a white sunrise, then bring in the blues, then ramp the whites down for dusk and run a little blues until my bedtime
 
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Ranjib

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Anyone know of a black box LED that is controllable? I want to get a few black box LEDs for my future 180g, but want to be able to ramp each unit (expecting 3-6 of them, depending on wattage) up individually, and to control an actinic type apart from the daylight. two channels would be fine for me, I just want to control the brightness of each of the two channels individually so I can get a white sunrise, then bring in the blues, then ramp the whites down for dusk and run a little blues until my bedtime
There are several posts here in r2r on controlling viparspectra and mars aqua lights using reef-pi, search for those
 

Schreiber

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There are several posts here in r2r on controlling viparspectra and mars aqua lights using reef-pi, search for those
Here's a couple worthwhile reads.


 

zab34

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So going to venture into a reefpi build. I want to use one of ML Hats but it looks like v3 is sold out.

Will I have any limitations going with a v2? Will I encounter any limitations with a pi zero vs a pi 3?

Any builds you would recommend that used the ML hat.

Ideally I would like:

Relay power control
ATO from float sensors
Temperature monitoring and heater control
Macros for feed and water change
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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So going to venture into a reefpi build. I want to use one of ML Hats but it looks like v3 is sold out.

Will I have any limitations going with a v2? Will I encounter any limitations with a pi zero vs a pi 3?

Any builds you would recommend that used the ML hat.

Ideally I would like:

Relay power control
ATO from float sensors
Temperature monitoring and heater control
Macros for feed and water change
The V2 hat has exactly the same functions as the V3 hat, the only difference being smaller connectors and Status LEDs on the board. For longevity, that V2 hat is the way to go.

I have to V2 hats and it is an awesome product and will easily be able to implement the functions like you listed.

As far as Raspberry Pi zero vs The 3B, if you are going to run it as a headless unit without a ton of sensors and equipment, the zero will work just fine. 3B just has more muscle and LAN capability.

I use 3Bs with my build.
 

PHopkins

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I just installed reef pi on a rasberry pi zero w. When i try and test the jack for the pwm control I am getting the error message

{"error":"Failed to update. Error: write /sys/class/pwm/pwmchip0/pwm0/period: invalid argument"} | HTTP 500

When I try and change User name and Password it is giving me this error

Failed to initialize i2c. Error:eek:pen /dev/i2c-1: no such file or directory

any help getting this working would be greatly appreciated
 
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Ranjib

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Here's a couple worthwhile reads.


Thank you @Schreiber :hugs:
 
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Ranjib

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I just installed reef pi on a rasberry pi zero w. When i try and test the jack for the pwm control I am getting the error message

{"error":"Failed to update. Error: write /sys/class/pwm/pwmchip0/pwm0/period: invalid argument"} | HTTP 500

When I try and change User name and Password it is giving me this error

Failed to initialize i2c. Error:eek:pen /dev/i2c-1: no such file or directory

any help getting this working would be greatly appreciated
Enable i2c using raspi-config, and reboot. Which version you are using? use 2.5 if you are unsure.
 

zab34

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The V2 hat has exactly the same functions as the V3 hat, the only difference being smaller connectors and Status LEDs on the board. For longevity, that V2 hat is the way to go.

I have to V2 hats and it is an awesome product and will easily be able to implement the functions like you listed.

As far as Raspberry Pi zero vs The 3B, if you are going to run it as a headless unit without a ton of sensors and equipment, the zero will work just fine. 3B just has more muscle and LAN capability.

I use 3Bs with my build.

What exactly is meant by headless? I assumed it was access via a browser regardless.

Will the mars aqua board work with a 2 channel, 300w 32” fixture?
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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What exactly is meant by headless? I assumed it was access via a browser regardless.

Will the mars aqua board work with a 2 channel, 300w 32” fixture?
Yes, meaning without rendering a GUI.

As for Mars aqua, assuming the wiring is the same as it is for 165w, then yes. There are several posts on the subject in this thread.
 

Garold R Seifert

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I picked up a biocube led for really cheap and was wondering if anyone had any luck controlling the lights through reef pi? I looked around and couldn't find anything.
 
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zab34

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Yes, meaning without rendering a GUI.

As for Mars aqua, assuming the wiring is the same as it is for 165w, then yes. There are several posts on the subject in this thread.

Great. I saw a lot of threads outlining the 165w. Wasn’t sure if there was any limitations to the board when it came wattage or drivers.

If the Pi zero cannot render a GUI would I be able to swap it with a 3 in the future if I wanted to go that route?

Simple switch the hat and sd card?
 
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Great. I saw a lot of threads outlining the 165w. Wasn’t sure if there was any limitations to the board when it came wattage or drivers.

If the Pi zero cannot render a GUI would I be able to swap it with a 3 in the future if I wanted to go that route?

Simple switch the hat and sd card?
You dont have to change the circuit, as the pin layout is same, just make sure you have enough room to physically place pi 3 , as it takes more space. Software wise, you can reuse the sd card, without reinstalling raspbian, but you have to reinstall reef-pi for pi 3 version. The packages are different for pi zero and pi 3. You data /configuration should persist, but I have not tested this out.
 
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