reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Ranjib]

Hi @Ranjib

I'm Hector Espert: https://github.com/hectorespert, the author of these pull requests: https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/issues?q=author:hectorespert

I'm building an aquarium controller for my planted aquarium using the reef-pi project and I would like to help to continue developing that.

I was wondering if I could be a member of the reef-pi github organization to obtain write or triage permissions to help with the development.

thank you for the code contributions @hectorespert . My sincere apologies for the delay in triaging those PRs. I just went through those, merging the ones that are good to go. So we should be good on that side.
I have granted the organization membership to only @Zekth and @Michael Lane for their sustained contributions and active participation in the development discussions. For your inclusion in the github org, I'll recommend focus on the same and we'll come back to this soon I feel comfortable (its mostly around trust, which comes from tenure/consistency). I'll also have to reach out to zekth and michael for their state of affairs, 2020 has been crazy for all of us, would be good to consider their thoughts.

Hope this answers your question,
ranjib

 

[Ranjib]

do you have one shot enabled?

if the optical sensor itself is mis behaving (i.e. not changing state when water level drops) then theres very little we can do from software side , other than stopping the ato pump after certain time.
I had bad experience with the optical sensors, hence switched back to float switches for my recent builds.

 

[xiholdtruex]

if the optical sensor itself is mis behaving (i.e. not changing state when water level drops) then theres very little we can do from software side , other than stopping the ato pump after certain time.
I had bad experience with the optical sensors, hence switched back to float switches for my recent builds.

me to , I had the optical sensor give me issues, two back to back switched over to all float switches also

 

[Coolhack]

Ok, so I am trying to fire my reef pi up after some difficulty working it the last time. It has the Saltwater Advanced Leviathan board on it. I have the power strip working awesome. I hook up the temp probe for temperature control, it took me forever to get it to recognize the probe, literally took three weeks and I finally got it to see it today. When I plug it in however, I set the check intervals for 10 seconds, save, reload. Then I goto look at the temp graph and it says 0 degrees Celsius, 10 seconds later, 32 degrees Celsius. It continues to do this to this moment. How do I fix this, my room is not 32 degrees sooooo...........yeahhhhhhh, can someone tell me what I am doing wrong?

 

[elysics]

Ok, so I am trying to fire my reef pi up after some difficulty working it the last time. It has the Saltwater Advanced Leviathan board on it. I have the power strip working awesome. I hook up the temp probe for temperature control, it took me forever to get it to recognize the probe, literally took three weeks and I finally got it to see it today. When I plug it in however, I set the check intervals for 10 seconds, save, reload. Then I goto look at the temp graph and it says 0 degrees Celsius, 10 seconds later, 32 degrees Celsius. It continues to do this to this moment. How do I fix this, my room is not 32 degrees sooooo...........yeahhhhhhh, can someone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Does the temperature change when you take the probe into your hand for a minute? Maybe you just got one that is particularly wrong, they all are a little bit, you can calibrate them in the temperature menu of the reefpi ui

The 0 is "normal" when you setup a new temp probe

 

[Coolhack]

Temp doesn't change at all except from 0 to 32 then back to 0 and 32. If I calibrate it, say like to 72, it goes from 72 to 39 and back to 72 then back to 39 the back to 72

 

[elysics]

Temp doesn't change at all except from 0 to 32 then back to 0 and 32. If I calibrate it, say like to 72, it goes from 72 to 39 and back to 72 then back to 39 the back to 72

That doesnt sound good, do you have multiple temp probes? Maybe try another

 

[Coolhack]

That doesnt sound good, do you have multiple temp probes? Maybe try another

They all do the same thing. I have even made my own board with the same results.

 

[Coolhack]

They all do the same thing. I have even made my own board with the same results.

 

[robsworld78]

They all do the same thing. I have even made my own board with the same results.

Any chance you don't have a 4.7k pullup resistor on the data line? Never heard of such results but maybe no resistor would cause that.

 

[Coolhack]

Any chance you don't have a 4.7k pullup resistor on the data line? Never heard of such results but maybe no resistor would cause that.

I have it on the data line on one board I built. But I can't get the temp probes to work on the Advanced Saltwater Leviathan board either. I have spent like 39 dollars on probes and none of them work right. I just don't get it. I am using a raspberry pi 4 with 4 gigs of ram and a 64 gig memory card. Power strip is the ADJ SRP8. Everything else works fine except the one thing I want to work, the temp probe. I just don't get it. Have hung up the project like three times now because the temp probes won't work.

 

[robsworld78]

I have it on the data line on one board I built. But I can't get the temp probes to work on the Advanced Saltwater Leviathan board either. I have spent like 39 dollars on probes and none of them work right. I just don't get it. I am using a raspberry pi 4 with 4 gigs of ram and a 64 gig memory card. Power strip is the ADJ SRP8. Everything else works fine except the one thing I want to work, the temp probe. I just don't get it. Have hung up the project like three times now because the temp probes won't work.

Probably a setting somewhere. Try reformatting your SD card, install Raspberry Pi OS again then use this script I have to install reef-pi. There's a few settings on the Pi that need to be setup for reef-pi to work, my guess is that's the problem. This script will take care of all that. Near the end it will ask if you are installing for Robo-Tank, select No so you get the default reef-pi database.

You can just try running the script first to see if it sorts it out but if you've already edited config.txt it probably won't work properly.

Software Installation Manual - Windows.docx

docs.google.com

 

[Coolhack]

Probably a setting somewhere. Try reformatting your SD card, install Raspberry Pi OS again then use this script I have to install reef-pi. There's a few settings on the Pi that need to be setup for reef-pi to work, my guess is that's the problem. This script will take care of all that. Near the end it will ask if you are installing for Robo-Tank, select No so you get the default reef-pi database.

You can just try running the script first to see if it sorts it out but if you've already edited config.txt it probably won't work properly.

Software Installation Manual - Windows.docx

docs.google.com

I will try it your way. I have reformatted to micro SD cards til they don't work anymore trying to get just the probes to work. It's killing me because when I first got the Leviathan board, everything worked fine. Then I did an update and upgrade to buster and everything went hay wire and hasn't been the same since.

 

[Coolhack]

Probably a setting somewhere. Try reformatting your SD card, install Raspberry Pi OS again then use this script I have to install reef-pi. There's a few settings on the Pi that need to be setup for reef-pi to work, my guess is that's the problem. This script will take care of all that. Near the end it will ask if you are installing for Robo-Tank, select No so you get the default reef-pi database.

You can just try running the script first to see if it sorts it out but if you've already edited config.txt it probably won't work properly.

Software Installation Manual - Windows.docx

docs.google.com

Yeap, doesn't pick up the temp sensor nor will it pick up my ATO sensor now. Sigh

 

[elysics]

Have you wired up parasitic power mode with 2 cables or normal mode with 3 cables?

 

[elysics]

And maybe post all lines starting with dtoverlay in /boot/config.txt

 

[BenB]

It can be that the colored wires on the tempprobe are mixed up, so the signal wire have a different color then you expect it to have. Secondly if you have multiple boards connected be sure that they have a comon grounding point.

 

[Coolhack]

Have you wired up parasitic power mode with 2 cables or normal mode with 3 cables?

Three

 

[Coolhack]

And maybe post all lines starting with dtoverlay in /boot/config.txt

# For more options and information see
# http://rpf.io/configtxt
# Some settings may impact device functionality. See link above for details

# uncomment if you get no picture on HDMI for a default "safe" mode
#hdmi_safe=1

# uncomment this if your display has a black border of unused pixels visible
# and your display can output without overscan
#disable_overscan=1

# uncomment the following to adjust overscan. Use positive numbers if console
# goes off screen, and negative if there is too much border
#overscan_left=16
#overscan_right=16
#overscan_top=16
#overscan_bottom=16

# uncomment to force a console size. By default it will be display's size minus
# overscan.
#framebuffer_width=1280
#framebuffer_height=720

# uncomment if hdmi display is not detected and composite is being output
#hdmi_force_hotplug=1

# uncomment to force a specific HDMI mode (this will force VGA)
#hdmi_group=1
#hdmi_mode=1

# uncomment to force a HDMI mode rather than DVI. This can make audio work in
# DMT (computer monitor) modes
#hdmi_drive=2

# uncomment to increase signal to HDMI, if you have interference, blanking, or
# no display
#config_hdmi_boost=4

# uncomment for composite PAL
#sdtv_mode=2

#uncomment to overclock the arm. 700 MHz is the default.
#arm_freq=800

# Uncomment some or all of these to enable the optional hardware interfaces
dtparam=i2c_arm=on
#dtparam=i2s=on
dtparam=spi=off

# Uncomment this to enable infrared communication.
#dtoverlay=gpio-ir,gpio_pin=17
#dtoverlay=gpio-ir-tx,gpio_pin=18

# Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/README

# Enable audio (loads snd_bcm2835)
dtparam=audio=on

[pi4]
# Enable DRM VC4 V3D driver on top of the dispmanx display stack
dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d
max_framebuffers=2

[all]
#dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d

# NOOBS Auto-generated Settings:

#Leviathan / Reef-Pi Settings
dtoverlay=pwm-2chan
dtoverlay=w1-gpio

 

[elysics]

Yeah, like @BenB mentioned, how did you determine which wire goes where? Depending on manufactuer of the fake ones, the wire colors might be random and not match with those of other manufacturers.

Also, do you have super long cables?

Config seems alright as long as you are using the default pin GPIO 4 for the data line.