reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Probably a setting somewhere. Try reformatting your SD card, install Raspberry Pi OS again then use this script I have to install reef-pi. There's a few settings on the Pi that need to be setup for reef-pi to work, my guess is that's the problem. This script will take care of all that. Near the end it will ask if you are installing for Robo-Tank, select No so you get the default reef-pi database.

You can just try running the script first to see if it sorts it out but if you've already edited config.txt it probably won't work properly.

I will try it your way. I have reformatted to micro SD cards til they don't work anymore trying to get just the probes to work. It's killing me because when I first got the Leviathan board, everything worked fine. Then I did an update and upgrade to buster and everything went hay wire and hasn't been the same since.
 
Probably a setting somewhere. Try reformatting your SD card, install Raspberry Pi OS again then use this script I have to install reef-pi. There's a few settings on the Pi that need to be setup for reef-pi to work, my guess is that's the problem. This script will take care of all that. Near the end it will ask if you are installing for Robo-Tank, select No so you get the default reef-pi database.

You can just try running the script first to see if it sorts it out but if you've already edited config.txt it probably won't work properly.

Yeap, doesn't pick up the temp sensor nor will it pick up my ATO sensor now. Sigh
 
Have you wired up parasitic power mode with 2 cables or normal mode with 3 cables?
 
It can be that the colored wires on the tempprobe are mixed up, so the signal wire have a different color then you expect it to have. Secondly if you have multiple boards connected be sure that they have a comon grounding point.
 
And maybe post all lines starting with dtoverlay in /boot/config.txt
# For more options and information see
# http://rpf.io/configtxt
# Some settings may impact device functionality. See link above for details

# uncomment if you get no picture on HDMI for a default "safe" mode
#hdmi_safe=1

# uncomment this if your display has a black border of unused pixels visible
# and your display can output without overscan
#disable_overscan=1

# uncomment the following to adjust overscan. Use positive numbers if console
# goes off screen, and negative if there is too much border
#overscan_left=16
#overscan_right=16
#overscan_top=16
#overscan_bottom=16

# uncomment to force a console size. By default it will be display's size minus
# overscan.
#framebuffer_width=1280
#framebuffer_height=720

# uncomment if hdmi display is not detected and composite is being output
#hdmi_force_hotplug=1

# uncomment to force a specific HDMI mode (this will force VGA)
#hdmi_group=1
#hdmi_mode=1

# uncomment to force a HDMI mode rather than DVI. This can make audio work in
# DMT (computer monitor) modes
#hdmi_drive=2

# uncomment to increase signal to HDMI, if you have interference, blanking, or
# no display
#config_hdmi_boost=4

# uncomment for composite PAL
#sdtv_mode=2

#uncomment to overclock the arm. 700 MHz is the default.
#arm_freq=800

# Uncomment some or all of these to enable the optional hardware interfaces
dtparam=i2c_arm=on
#dtparam=i2s=on
dtparam=spi=off

# Uncomment this to enable infrared communication.
#dtoverlay=gpio-ir,gpio_pin=17
#dtoverlay=gpio-ir-tx,gpio_pin=18

# Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/README

# Enable audio (loads snd_bcm2835)
dtparam=audio=on

[pi4]
# Enable DRM VC4 V3D driver on top of the dispmanx display stack
dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d
max_framebuffers=2

[all]
#dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d

# NOOBS Auto-generated Settings:

#Leviathan / Reef-Pi Settings
dtoverlay=pwm-2chan
dtoverlay=w1-gpio
 
Yeah, like @BenB mentioned, how did you determine which wire goes where? Depending on manufactuer of the fake ones, the wire colors might be random and not match with those of other manufacturers.

Also, do you have super long cables?

Config seems alright as long as you are using the default pin GPIO 4 for the data line.
 
It can be that the colored wires on the tempprobe are mixed up, so the signal wire have a different color then you expect it to have. Secondly if you have multiple boards connected be sure that they have a comon grounding point.
They are all grounded on the ground from the jack for the 12 volt power
 
Nevermind I wired it like it says on the website. It is a Leviathan board populated. So it's supposed to be plug and play
The problem is that yellow is not always data, red not always power, i think black might not even always ground with the probes from random manufacturers, consider the colors random, some even have different colors entirely

If I remember correctly, the sensor was noticably heating up immediately if you hold it in your hand when you turn on the power and data and power lines are switched up, if you don't torn the power off quickly, the sensor will die

You can at least figure out what's ground with a multimeter in diode mode
 
The problem is that yellow is not always data, red not always power, i think black might not even always ground with the probes from random manufacturers, consider the colors random, some even have different colors entirely

If I remember correctly, the sensor was noticably heating up immediately if you hold it in your hand when you turn on the power and data and power lines are switched up, if you don't torn the power off quickly, the sensor will die

You can at least figure out what's ground with a multimeter in diode mode

Consider that you are going to be the first person ever powering on one of those cheap temp probes. Zero factory test.
 
Hi I have just upgraded my laptop and lost all web based passwords so can't access reef-pi

tried reef-pi reset-password but comes up with error bucket reef-pi doesn't exist

If I delete database will that put passwords to default again?

Help would be much appreciated
 
If I remember correctly, the sensor was noticably heating up immediately if you hold it in your hand when you turn on the power and data and power lines are switched up, if you don't torn the power off quickly, the sensor will die
Hi!

To prevent this type of issue is better connect the sensor in parasite mode at least it won't heat up with wrong connection.

DS18B20.png


Best regards.
 
Hi!

To prevent this type of issue is better connect the sensor in parasite mode at least it won't heat up with wrong connection.

DS18B20.png


Best regards.
Well, with the heating up you'll at least know which way is the wrong way, just have to be quick about turning it off.
 
The problem is that yellow is not always data, red not always power, i think black might not even always ground with the probes from random manufacturers, consider the colors random, some even have different colors entirely

If I remember correctly, the sensor was noticably heating up immediately if you hold it in your hand when you turn on the power and data and power lines are switched up, if you don't torn the power off quickly, the sensor will die

You can at least figure out what's ground with a multimeter in diode mode
The probe I got was off of the office build page I though. https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-guide-3-temperature-controller/parts that is where I bought it. Ten dollars for one probe. It is the recommended probe. Sooo......maybe the wrong build page?
 
In your initial post you said it took you forever for it to recognize the probe. What did you actually do for that to happen that you didn't do before? Or was it a matter of doing the exact same thing and it randomly working?
 
In your initial post you said it took you forever for it to recognize the probe. What did you actually do for that to happen that you didn't do before? Or was it a matter of doing the exact same thing and it randomly working?
Ok, when I first set it up, everything worked perfect. For about four months, then the temp probe started with the 0 degrees thing. Then the new release of reef pi came out so I updated to that then everything started going weird after I updated the pi software. I couldn't get the wifi chip to recognized the router, no temp probe, after buying another 5 of the cheap ones. 10 of them altogether. Then the ATO started acting up. I took the whole thing offline so I could fix it. Never really got the pi to work the same as it did for the first four months. I bought the recommended probe and it is still the same thing.
 

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