reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[LionHeart2017]

Your gonna need a bigger box.. But nice start..

Haha, I have 3 of the kitchen cupboards and half my living room full of aquatic stuff, gonna have to get it organised and actually throw some stuff out(or buy a big box for the shed [emoji1]) missus none too happy, today I have moved my rodi from the kitchen worktop to a small cupboard, looks much nicer[emoji41]

 

[Erica-Renee]

Haha, I have 3 of the kitchen cupboards and half my living room full of aquatic stuff, gonna have to get it organised and actually throw some stuff out(or buy a big box for the shed [emoji1]) missus none too happy, today I have moved my rodi from the kitchen worktop to a small cupboard, looks much nicer[emoji41]

My RODI System is in the Basement

 

[Ranjib]

I bought a hakko soldering station this week. And it’s soooo awesome :-) . Soldering is so much easier and convenient (steady temperature, the pen does not get hot etc). Here’s a video of it picking up 750F in just under 30 seconds

 

[Trickman2]

How much trouble do you think this would be to do with the Reef-pi.
Smart AWC - Auto Water Changer - AutoAqua
https://www.marinedepot.com/Smart_A...Top_Off_Units-AutoAqua-CV21177-FIDPAT-vi.html

 

[Ranjib]

How much trouble do you think this would be to do with the Reef-pi.
Smart AWC - Auto Water Changer - AutoAqua
https://www.marinedepot.com/Smart_A...Top_Off_Units-AutoAqua-CV21177-FIDPAT-vi.html

I dont know how this work, but I would assume if we can combine multiple ATOs with macro capabilities it should do the job. Again, this is my gut feeling without reading much.

I personally wont do automatic water change, since I blow my rocks, crevices etc during that time. Also change filter media etc. I certainly see the value in using two optical sensors to autimatically pump in the new water, which is something i will attempt to do via macro. But thats the easiest part in the water change process. Pruning corals, siphoning sand, blowing rocks are the hardest part

 

[Erica-Renee]

Auto Water change is something i am going to setup , REEF-PI Has the ability right now to do so . with combination of flat switches ,Timers and Outlet control for pump or gravity fed solenoid valve .

Now i have to turn a valve to pump water out of my sump.. Then turn another valve for it to fill back up.. So much work.. GIGGLES.
I did a 30 gal water change this morning

 

[sector9]

I thought I would provide an update about the Sparkfun waterproof DS18B20 sensor. I have been using mine since July of last year (10 months). It is still in excellent condition and I have been pleased with its performance. I am thinking about picking up another one now that reef-pi supports multiple sensors

 

[Ranjib]

I thought I would provide an update about the Sparkfun waterproof DS18B20 sensor. I have been using mine since July of last year (10 months). It is still in excellent condition and I have been pleased with its performance. I am thinking about picking up another one now that reef-pi supports multiple sensors

To tell you the truth, i am using these (canakit/sparkfun version with black powder coating) as well as the adafruit version (steel) and none of them has shown any rust whatsoever. Very happy with it

 

[Ranjib]

Today I spend some time to detailed analysis of the AIO circuit. If you are following along, I am seeing some issues with light dimming where the Kessil will flickr, this happen only in the AIO circuit, i.e. when the pwm and all other circuit (ato, temperature, relay) are wired together. This does not happen when I use the Kessil controller independently. So, today I spend some time hooking up everything with a bread board and looking at signals at different hops, in different combinations of circuits. As expected , I noticed that the pwm signal has noise, particularly when used with lm2596 modules. In AIO circuit, if I power the Pi & pca9685 with an independent 5v power supply (such as the micro usb ones) thing run smooth.
Here is a screen shot of the oscilloscope when everything uses a single power supply (i.e. a single 12v supply, then step down to 10v and 5v by two lmm2595 modules)
Generated pwm signal. For refrence, pwm signals are square waves , hence the up and down. The amount of UP is equivalent to percentage dimming. Notice the spikes present in both up as well as down part of the signal

And this is the signal when I use a dedicated 5v power supply for pi/pca9685. Then the signal is much more stable, without the spikes.

I could reproduce this with both Pi based PWM as well as pca9685 based pwm.

I am reading and thinking about what should be my next step. Whether to throw in capacitors (i have to decide the value and the exact location in circuit) or use some other power regulator modules to power the AIO circuits... will keep you all posted. Whatever happens, this is a good data that i can share while discussing the problem with others more knowledgeable than me :-)

 

[Ryan115]

Today I spend some time to detailed analysis of the AIO circuit. If you are following along, I am seeing some issues with light dimming where the Kessil will flickr, this happen only in the AIO circuit, i.e. when the pwm and all other circuit (ato, temperature, relay) are wired together. This does not happen when I use the Kessil controller independently. So, today I spend some time hooking up everything with a bread board and looking at signals at different hops, in different combinations of circuits. As expected , I noticed that the pwm signal has noise, particularly when used with lm2596 modules. In AIO circuit, if I power the Pi & pca9685 with an independent 5v power supply (such as the micro usb ones) thing run smooth.
Here is a screen shot of the oscilloscope when everything uses a single power supply (i.e. a single 12v supply, then step down to 10v and 5v by two lmm2595 modules)
Generated pwm signal. For refrence, pwm signals are square waves , hence the up and down. The amount of UP is equivalent to percentage dimming. Notice the spikes present in both up as well as down part of the signal

And this is the signal when I use a dedicated 5v power supply for pi/pca9685. Then the signal is much more stable, without the spikes.

I could reproduce this with both Pi based PWM as well as pca9685 based pwm.

I am reading and thinking about what should be my next step. Whether to throw in capacitors (i have to decide the value and the exact location in circuit) or use some other power regulator modules to power the AIO circuits... will keep you all posted. Whatever happens, this is a good data that i can share while discussing the problem with others more knowledgeable than me :)

Have you looked at the UBECs at Adafruit? https://www.adafruit.com/product/1385
I haven't played with any of them on the scope, but I have used them a few times and have been happy with them.
Not quite as cheap as the LM2596s and may still be noisy since it is still a switching regulator.

 

[Ryan115]

Some parts arrived at last[emoji3]
Let's see them parts boxes you guys must have[emoji116]

I am too ashamed to show my parts box after this...mine is a large tote with all sorts of accumulated odds and ends that have accumulated over the years. I know where to go to find the parts, then the hunt begins once I am there.

 

[Ranjib]

Have you looked at the UBECs at Adafruit? https://www.adafruit.com/product/1385
I haven't played with any of them on the scope, but I have used them a few times and have been happy with them.
Not quite as cheap as the LM2596s and may still be noisy since it is still a switching regulator.

I am happy to try it , but I would like to understand whats wrong with the current setup first. One of my concern is that powering pi via GPIO is fundamentally wrong, and if this is true, then i have to rethink.
FYI, lm2596 is also rated at 3A... so.. I'll keep testing and keep you all posted,
"we shall overcome " :-)

 

[Erica-Renee]

I actually did not know you could power the via gpio. I Just read a few articles about doing this . They all seem to have one common thing... DO NOT DO IT
With the above said i am no expert . but it appears you need to use gpio2 and gnd pin 6 .. as its the ground most common for that gpio.. I am sure you know this already but thought i would post it as its something i just learned .
this might be helpful
https://www.raspberrypi.org/magpi/power-supply/

 

[Ranjib]

I actually did not know you could power the via gpio. I Just read a few articles about doing this . They all seem to have one common thing... DO NOT DO IT
With the above said i am no expert . but it appears you need to use gpio2 and gnd pin 6 .. as its the ground most common for that gpio.. I am sure you know this already but thought i would post it as its something i just learned .
this might be helpful
https://www.raspberrypi.org/magpi/power-supply/

I always power them via GPIO. I always use a 12v (and in some rare cases where there is no relay or kessil control, then 5v) wall wart as single power source, then multiple lm2596 to stepdown to a 5v rail. Pi GPIO, pca9685 vcc, ATO sensors power, all are connected to this 5v rail. If i am using kessil control, i'll use another lm2596 to convert 12v to 10v.

 

[Erica-Renee]

I always power them via GPIO. I always use a 12v (and in some rare cases where there is no relay or kessil control, then 5v) wall wart as single power source, then multiple lm2596 to stepdown to a 5v rail. Pi GPIO, pca9685 vcc, ATO sensors power, all are connected to this 5v rail. If i am using kessil control, i'll use another lm2596 to convert 12v to 10v.

what if you tried to use a micro usb cable and connect it to your lm2596 .. powering the pi thu its usb port but with the same lm2596. If what i am reading is there is voltage protection and isolation powering thru the usb this could be a solution .

The way i have been doing mine. I have the pi powered with a 5v 3a power source thru the micro usb... the everything else powered with a 5v 3v depending on its needs. (thou i thought 3v would power pca9685) .. My lights fans and 4 dc dose pumps are all powered by the same Radio shack adjustable voltage power supply running at 12v
The pi shares only common ground

 

[Ranjib]

what if you tried to use a micro usb cable and connect it to your lm2596 .. powering the pi thu its usb port but with the same lm2596. If what i am reading is there is voltage protection and isolation powering thru the usb this could be a solution .

The way i have been doing mine. I have the pi powered with a 5v 3a power source thru the micro usb... the everything else powered with a 5v 3v depending on its needs. (thou i thought 3v would power pca9685) .. My lights fans and 4 dc dose pumps are all powered by the same Radio shack adjustable voltage power supply running at 12v
The pi shares only common ground

Thats something i'll test next. i.e. power Pi using micro usb connector instead of GPIO using the same power rail. None the less.. lot more testing going on right now with oscilloscope :-)

 

[DarkSageD]

My friend is new to tanks and I have an extra raspi laying around. He’s having some algae issues and I’ve been unable to go diagnose the issue although I believe water conditions and lack of filteration plus over lighting the tank are the main culprits combined. I know there are UV lights one can purchase to eliminate algae however I was wondering if there was a way to ‘make’ one of these algae killers with my Pi as well as adding a light timer and food timer and Ph sensor to help him out? He has 3 kids and it was a 55 gallon family fun attempt that has become more than they bargained for when they filled it with chiclids and I had to adjust their substrate and tank ornaments already. Even a good fairly cheap algae removing light would help if anyone knows of one I just wanted to run everything from it, feeding, ‘day & ‘night’, temp, Ph etc through the Pi with a touchscreen to make it all as SIMPLE to run as possible. Amy help would be appreciated. I’m not an aquarium or Pi novice but I am no marine biologist or professional programmer either (Although I can write some simple codes and adjust existing ones. The actual ‘making’ and wiring is what will be hardest for me. Although I am sure I can use online learning and examples to figure it out).

Thank you for your hard work and to all of you that have added to this page giving me some starting points of reference,
Darren

 

[Ranjib]

My friend is new to tanks and I have an extra raspi laying around. He’s having some algae issues and I’ve been unable to go diagnose the issue although I believe water conditions and lack of filteration plus over lighting the tank are the main culprits combined. I know there are UV lights one can purchase to eliminate algae however I was wondering if there was a way to ‘make’ one of these algae killers with my Pi as well as adding a light timer and food timer and Ph sensor to help him out? He has 3 kids and it was a 55 gallon family fun attempt that has become more than they bargained for when they filled it with chiclids and I had to adjust their substrate and tank ornaments already. Even a good fairly cheap algae removing light would help if anyone knows of one I just wanted to run everything from it, feeding, ‘day & ‘night’, temp, Ph etc through the Pi with a touchscreen to make it all as SIMPLE to run as possible. Amy help would be appreciated. I’m not an aquarium or Pi novice but I am no marine biologist or professional programmer either (Although I can write some simple codes and adjust existing ones. The actual ‘making’ and wiring is what will be hardest for me. Although I am sure I can use online learning and examples to figure it out).

Thank you for your hard work and to all of you that have added to this page giving me some starting points of reference,
Darren

Welcome to reef2reef.
This is a build thread, which is pretty long and unlikely to be helpful if you are trying to get started with reef-pi. Use the official docs (http://reef-pi.com) for build details.
If its a freshwater tank, then its best to cross check the filtration and introduce some clean up crew like snail and shrimp that can chomp on the algae. A decent light will help as well. But I am not a freshwater expert, and this is in particular a marine/coral tank specific forum, so I am not sure how much help will be available here regarding freshwater tank and algae issue specific to it.

You can certainly use reef-pi to monitor ph, control light , but I doubt that will be the main cure. Its a fun build none the less :-)

 

[DarkSageD]

Welcome to reef2reef.
This is a build thread, which is pretty long and unlikely to be helpful if you are trying to get started with reef-pi. Use the official docs (http://reef-pi.com) for build details.
If its a freshwater tank, then its best to cross check the filtration and introduce some clean up crew like snail and shrimp that can chomp on the algae. A decent light will help as well. But I am not a freshwater expert, and this is in particular a marine/coral tank specific forum, so I am not sure how much help will be available here regarding freshwater tank and algae issue specific to it.

You can certainly use reef-pi to monitor ph, control light , but I doubt that will be the main cure. Its a fun build none the less :)

Thank you so much. Actually since my short visit to your site I have just gotten the ‘urge’ in me to start a saltwater tank and use a Pi to my advantage. I’ve been discussing it with my daughter for some time and just putting it off but I have a close friend with some salt water set ups and live sand and coral for me when I choose to set up the tank. Not sure what an ideal size would be for one. (I’m very familiar with different types of chiclid tank set ups as those have been my usual go-to). However, after seeing how engaged this community is and the mixture of makers technology plus salt water tanks I believe it’s time to decide on a size and take my buddy up on his live sand and reef! I’m tired of building retro arcades and monitors for my Bonsai trees out of my Pi’s and this looks like a beautiful new adventure

 

[Ranjib]

Thank you so much. Actually since my short visit to your site I have just gotten the ‘urge’ in me to start a saltwater tank and use a Pi to my advantage. I’ve been discussing it with my daughter for some time and just putting it off but I have a close friend with some salt water set ups and live sand and coral for me when I choose to set up the tank. Not sure what an ideal size would be for one. (I’m very familiar with different types of chiclid tank set ups as those have been my usual go-to). However, after seeing how engaged this community is and the mixture of makers technology plus salt water tanks I believe it’s time to decide on a size and take my buddy up on his live sand and reef! I’m tired of building retro arcades and monitors for my Bonsai trees out of my Pi’s and this looks like a beautiful new adventure

Thats an awesome idea. This site has tonnes of good information on how to get started. It does not have to be big and elaborate. You can start a tiny tank, and test the hobby.
One of the reason I tried to automate this with pi was due to complexity. reef keeping is a rather complex and onerous hobby. This compared with expensive equipment, live stock and long time engagement made it really high risk high return DIY project, something i was looking for :-)