reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Coolhack]

Ok, may have figured it out, I had another raspberry pi 4 here that I was using for my pen testing lab, I hooked it up to all my reef pi stuff, power pack, ATO, temp probe, and I swapped out the SD cards and bam, everything works great, no errors. Is it possible that the gpio 4 pin isn't working on my other raspberry pi 4? If so, how do I fix it and make it work again? Anyone know the answer to these three questions?

 

[elysics]

If the same wiring, same SD card, same pi model but different pi suddenly works, then I'd say gpio 4 is burned out for some reason. Or you had some error or bad connection in wiring that you didn't notice and transferring everything over fixed that.

Question, did you do the pull-up to 3.3V or to 5V ?

 

[Coolhack]

If the same wiring, same SD card, same pi model but different pi suddenly works, then I'd say gpio 4 is burned out for some reason. Or you had some error or bad connection in wiring that you didn't notice and transferring everything over fixed that.

Question, did you do the pull-up to 3.3V or to 5V ?

It's whatever the Leviathan board does, I think it is 3.3 volt not 100% on that. I do now know that the raspberry pi has a couple of, what are those wires that are made into the board called, anyways, it has one of those that looks like it is burned out and it is going to the #4 gpio.

 

[theatrus]

It's whatever the Leviathan board does, I think it is 3.3 volt not 100% on that. I do now know that the raspberry pi has a couple of, what are those wires that are made into the board called, anyways, it has one of those that looks like it is burned out and it is going to the #4 gpio.

Traces. If its physically scorched and vaporized off, some event with a short to ground or voltage occurred. Its also possible the pin is damaged on chip (its not the most robust thing).

 

[elysics]

Most likely that part of that pi is toast, but maaaaaybe it'll work if you clean off the burn marks off that pin with isopropyl or something, since it apparently still recognized the probe even f it didn't work

Edit: oh nevermind that if it's the traces that are burned and not just the pin

 

[BenB]

Ok, may have figured it out, I had another raspberry pi 4 here that I was using for my pen testing lab, I hooked it up to all my reef pi stuff, power pack, ATO, temp probe, and I swapped out the SD cards and bam, everything works great, no errors. Is it possible that the gpio 4 pin isn't working on my other raspberry pi 4? If so, how do I fix it and make it work again? Anyone know the answer to these three questions?

To change the default GPIO pin used for 1-wire communication you can edit the /boot/config.txt file and add this line:

dtoverlay=w1-gpio,gpiopin=x

where x is the GPIO pin you want to use. Reboot to see the change

 

[14 foot reef]

What is the best PH probe you all have found to work with the Raspberry Pie controller

 

[Ranjib]

What is the best PH probe you all have found to work with the Raspberry Pie controller

atalas scientific, brs double junction, american marine pinpoint

 

[Coolhack]

To change the default GPIO pin used for 1-wire communication you can edit the /boot/config.txt file and add this line:

dtoverlay=w1-gpio,gpiopin=x

where x is the GPIO pin you want to use. Reboot to see the change

So you are saying I can still use the pi just change the gpio that the 1-wire uses?

 

[14 foot reef]

atalas scientific, brs double junction, american marine pinpoint

thank you

 

[Savampyre]

Hoping someone here can help:
I'm in the process of building out a Viparspectra T300 with a Reef-Pi. I followed a few of the different guides here and on other forums, but for the life of me I cannot get PWM to work. My relays work and can be controlled via the reefpi, but there is no dimming, the lights appear to stay at 100% the whole time (verified by jumping to 5v on one of the blue wires and it looked the same as when connected to a PWM channel). Excuse my pics as this is still on breadboard. I am using the latest PiOS build along with the latest reefpi build on a Pi 3+ . Any help is greatly appreciated!

Included is a pic of the original controller for the LED fixture as well. On my breadboard the yellow wires are coming from the two PWM channels and going to the two Blue PWM wires for the drivers. Within reefpi I have the pwm set to 100 under Config > Settings, and properly added the two channels as jacks, along with the two relays as Outlets.

Build info:
PiOS: 5.10.17-v7+
Reefpi: 4.1
Pi: Pi 3 Model B Plus Rev 1.3

 

[Ranjib]

Hoping someone here can help:
I'm in the process of building out a Viparspectra T300 with a Reef-Pi. I followed a few of the different guides here and on other forums, but for the life of me I cannot get PWM to work. My relays work and can be controlled via the reefpi, but there is no dimming, the lights appear to stay at 100% the whole time (verified by jumping to 5v on one of the blue wires and it looked the same as when connected to a PWM channel). Excuse my pics as this is still on breadboard. I am using the latest PiOS build along with the latest reefpi build on a Pi 3+ . Any help is greatly appreciated!

Included is a pic of the original controller for the LED fixture as well. On my breadboard the yellow wires are coming from the two PWM channels and going to the two Blue PWM wires for the drivers. Within reefpi I have the pwm set to 100 under Config > Settings, and properly added the two channels as jacks, along with the two relays as Outlets.

Build info:
PiOS: 5.10.17-v7+
Reefpi: 4.1
Pi: Pi 3 Model B Plus Rev 1.3

If the blue wires are not showing any voltage variation then pwm is not working from pi side. Ideally it will be 0-3.3V, not 5V. You are using GPIO18 and 19?

 

[Ranjib]

Just ordered my new tank :-) . Here is the build thread https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...ank-redsea-reefer-300-xl.846760/#post-9186166

Ive been waiting for this very long.. almost 3.5 years now. Home, then covid.. everything piled up. But now the time is here... super excited to get started with this new build. Still thinking what will go in the controller side. Light and pump now has built in controller. Monitoring for sure.. but what else... rsr has built in ATO.. but i'll still prefer reef-pi based ATO. Kessil AP9x is also 0-10v controllable :-) .

 

[elysics]

Do you have the line
dtoverlay=pwm-2chan

In /boot/config.txt somewhere?

Assuming you use the pi internal pwm channels on 18 and 19

Hoping someone here can help:
I'm in the process of building out a Viparspectra T300 with a Reef-Pi. I followed a few of the different guides here and on other forums, but for the life of me I cannot get PWM to work. My relays work and can be controlled via the reefpi, but there is no dimming, the lights appear to stay at 100% the whole time (verified by jumping to 5v on one of the blue wires and it looked the same as when connected to a PWM channel). Excuse my pics as this is still on breadboard. I am using the latest PiOS build along with the latest reefpi build on a Pi 3+ . Any help is greatly appreciated!

Included is a pic of the original controller for the LED fixture as well. On my breadboard the yellow wires are coming from the two PWM channels and going to the two Blue PWM wires for the drivers. Within reefpi I have the pwm set to 100 under Config > Settings, and properly added the two channels as jacks, along with the two relays as Outlets.

Build info:
PiOS: 5.10.17-v7+
Reefpi: 4.1
Pi: Pi 3 Model B Plus Rev 1.3

 

[Savampyre]

If the blue wires are not showing any voltage variation then pwm is not working from pi side. Ideally it will be 0-3.3V, not 5V. You are using GPIO18 and 19?

Yes using both 18 and 19, also verified pwm is enabled (txt line added to config.txt). I'm begining to think my pi is just defective. Going to try to reload the pi with an older build to see if that makes a difference.

 

[Ranjib]

Yes using both 18 and 19, also verified pwm is enabled (txt line added to config.txt). I'm begining to think my pi is just defective. Going to try to reload the pi with an older build to see if that makes a difference.

Do you see the values in /sys/class/pwm file as mentioned here :https://jumpnowtek.com/rpi/Using-the-Raspberry-Pi-Hardware-PWM-timers.html if it’s there it will mean reef-pi is doing what it’s supposed to do, and it’s either the pi or wiring issue

 

[Ranjib]

I would also recommend just unplugging all wires and test the pwm pins in isolation, it’s rare for the pi to go bad like that

 

[stefanm]

My temperature sensors are going Cuckoo, so what's the diagnosis? Bad resistor, cold solder joint for the pull down or corrupted SD card?

I've tried restarting and deleting the sensors etc.. doesn't help, it's been like this for over a week now, probably happened after a long power cut and my power backup had ran out of juice.

My temperature is in Celsius.

 

[Roli's Reef Ranch]

Following are two images of the newer Pico tank (imagitarium 3.7 G), initially it was powered by ABI 12 W Tuna blue LED bulb, controlled using AC 100V relay, scheduled daily 10 AM -> 6 PM.

And then later upgraded to Kessil A80 and controlled by PWM (from PCA9685, then boosted using ULN2803A)..

I have almost exactly the same set up except I have the kessil on top of the glass. How are you suspending or attaching your kessil to the back of the tank?

 

[Ranjib]

I have almost exactly the same set up except I have the kessil on top of the glass. How are you suspending or attaching your kessil to the back of the tank?

that was a long long time agoe :) . I changed the aquarium with something that does not have beveled corners. I use makerbeam to build a tank fixture that supports the light
Here is how they look now.

close up pico 1

Close up pico 2