Team
Don‘t add bottled bacteria to the display during crash arrest as the cycle bacteria aren’t killed in still water. There are times where bottled bacteria can lower ammonia in fish holding containers especially if travel or transport is occurring, but by rinsing these displays out vs dosing them we will create and sustain the cleanest water and most regenerative condition.
Hold off on feeding until warmth and power and cleaning can be restored
your cycles are still intact. Rip clean the system to remove waste sinks when power is back on, begin anew, drop your lighting intensity way down for two weeks, feed well. Change water routinely on the ramp phase to export new micro losses.
do not toss your live rock much of it will live
preps for when power is back on:
**you must not start the new reef over your old sand** the sand must be 100% skip cycle cleaned and then put back. You must rinse your old sand (or new sand if you buy some) in tap water for hours literally, until it’s cloudless. Final rinse is with RO water, sand can be reused or used new now. You must tap rinse any sand you are about to use in the fixed tank. This seems crazy but it’s not, it’s life and death for your investment. We are ridding your system of excess bacteria for a reason in this post.
Keep corals and try to bring them back under much reduced lighting after the rip clean.
my tank ran at 68 for two months because I didn’t own a temp gauge in a reef lol (heater out) it’s back now from total bleaching. Lots of what you think might be total loss is not. Rebuild when possible and update us, post fix jobs right here for reworks
****in no way has your filtration bacteria been killed, they’ve been slightly bothered it was the macro life that overwhelmed them upon loss*****
your pods will survive. Nearly all live rock animals are insulated inside. Do not toss rocks, those hearts can be used to skip cycle into the fixed reef upon power restoration
your filter bac are being smothered by dead mass so the rip clean resets the tank, re exposes bacteria to oxygen and wastewater from very high surface area live rock. We need it flushed out though so it’s back flushed and back into action.
once cleaned off, all the live rocks here will still have their bacteria in place do not use bottled bacteria these systems are already oxygen-challenged. Biofilms have insulated all your cycling bacteria just fine.
the basis for the recommend comes from here below, we work with distressed reefs using similar action sets
Don‘t add bottled bacteria to the display during crash arrest as the cycle bacteria aren’t killed in still water. There are times where bottled bacteria can lower ammonia in fish holding containers especially if travel or transport is occurring, but by rinsing these displays out vs dosing them we will create and sustain the cleanest water and most regenerative condition.
Hold off on feeding until warmth and power and cleaning can be restored
your cycles are still intact. Rip clean the system to remove waste sinks when power is back on, begin anew, drop your lighting intensity way down for two weeks, feed well. Change water routinely on the ramp phase to export new micro losses.
do not toss your live rock much of it will live
preps for when power is back on:
**you must not start the new reef over your old sand** the sand must be 100% skip cycle cleaned and then put back. You must rinse your old sand (or new sand if you buy some) in tap water for hours literally, until it’s cloudless. Final rinse is with RO water, sand can be reused or used new now. You must tap rinse any sand you are about to use in the fixed tank. This seems crazy but it’s not, it’s life and death for your investment. We are ridding your system of excess bacteria for a reason in this post.
Keep corals and try to bring them back under much reduced lighting after the rip clean.
my tank ran at 68 for two months because I didn’t own a temp gauge in a reef lol (heater out) it’s back now from total bleaching. Lots of what you think might be total loss is not. Rebuild when possible and update us, post fix jobs right here for reworks
****in no way has your filtration bacteria been killed, they’ve been slightly bothered it was the macro life that overwhelmed them upon loss*****
your pods will survive. Nearly all live rock animals are insulated inside. Do not toss rocks, those hearts can be used to skip cycle into the fixed reef upon power restoration
your filter bac are being smothered by dead mass so the rip clean resets the tank, re exposes bacteria to oxygen and wastewater from very high surface area live rock. We need it flushed out though so it’s back flushed and back into action.
once cleaned off, all the live rocks here will still have their bacteria in place do not use bottled bacteria these systems are already oxygen-challenged. Biofilms have insulated all your cycling bacteria just fine.
the basis for the recommend comes from here below, we work with distressed reefs using similar action sets
When to lower light intensity as a reef tank CPR move
Team, you need to know that being able to revert back to cloudy day/low lighting is the #1 thing you do as tank CPR before any other action. Water charges come after Preventing light sunburn is #1 temperature insults cold and hot. chemical burns, overdoses. events where you think ammonia...
www.reef2reef.com
A week without power - Recoverable?
So, tank went without power for a week following hurricane Ida. There was no flow(obviously) and temps hit 85-86 during the day. I came back to the city to rescue my 2 clowns who are currently living in a 5 gallon bucket with a bubbler. Basically my question is: what are my options from here...
www.reef2reef.com
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