Robo-Tank Install Problems.... Possibly Broken Pi?

[Fish Fan]

I have a Robo-Tank controller system that I got used probably about a year ago, I dabbled in it a few months ago, but my tank plans changed. I am now setting up a 25 gallon tank and I really want to fire up this controller and use it on this tank, which is just about ready to see water.

@robsworld78 we've talked previously, but I am finally ready to go forward with this. If you can still help me get this used Robo-Tank system working on my 25 gallon, I would then be looking to buy a new system from you for a 150 gallon tank, which will be next after this 25.

Last night I got into things, I had no trouble putting a fresh install of the RPi OS on the card, and absolutely no trouble connecting to the Pi via SSH. Following the Robo-Tank Web Server install guide, I was able to download, unpack, and install Robo-Tank. Great!

But that's as far as I was able to get. I could never connect to the Robo-Tank webserver, which I thought was the next step??

So today I took another look at this, I figured I'd just do a fresh install and start from the beginning. Now, I am able to install the RPi OS no problem, but no matter what I do I cannot connect to the Pi via SSH, and I'm completely stuck. I've done the OS install no less than a dozen times, I make sure my wifi password is correct and that SSH is enabled. I've done this in the past on other projects, I had zero problems with SSH last night, but today nothing I do is working. I was really hoping to get a lot farther along on this today, but it's been hours, and I can't even get SSH working......

Does anyone have any idea what I'm doing wrong? Is it possible something broke on the Pi itself given that it was used when I got it?

 

[Fish Fan]

Update: I did figure out how to connect to the Pi by SSH by using the IP address and not the host name, as I've always done, and is correct host name I used during the OS install.

Now, I'm going to try to reinstall the Robo-Tank Webserver software, and after that I should be able to see the webserver, right?

Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!

 

[Fish Fan]

I had to run the installer three times, but eventually it finished without an error, and I can now see the Robo-Tank webserver at the Pi's IP address - Woohoo!!!!

 

[Fish Fan]

The software is installed and seems to be working, and I'm excited!

I can't do too much with it tonight since I seem to have misplaced my 12v adapter, and I've been running the Pi itself on a 5v adapter. I have another 12v adapter coming tomorrow, and then I can try to fire up the Robo-Tank controller and plug some stuff into it.

But I do have a few questions for now, if anyone can help me. Please look at this picture of what I have. I know in the picture I'm missing some power and CAT cables, which I now have on hand. Could someone look at the white sensors that I think are for the water level. Are these "the best" kind of sensor for an ATO (which is a big reason I'd like this controller setup to work)? And if so, I don't understand how to attach these to my tank, are they magnetic or something? Am I missing a part or something? This will be for an IM 25 gallon AIO, so no sump.

And, I've got 2 temp probes, do I need both for a small AIO?

Last, I've got two Kessil A360we's on hand that I want to use on this tank. I *believe* that Robo-Tank can control these lights and provide a dawn/dusk type ramp up/down. The lights have the 0-10v control input. What additional cables would I need to make that happen? Is setting this up in the Robo-Tank web interface fairly intuitive? Would it be best to just use my Kessil light controller here? I'd prefer to use Robo-Tank.

I really appreciate any help with all this. I'm not just new to Robo-Tank I'm new to controllers all together :)

Thanks in advance!

 

[robsworld78]

Hi @Fish Fan glad to hear you got it working. Now when you put the Pi IP address in your browser you should see the login page. You will have to run the install script again if the startup wizard already ran without the controller present. Don't need to reinstall the Pi OS though, just run the script, it'll be quicker this time too. This page has the SSH commands to run.

Robo-Tank App Installation Manual - Windows.docx

Raspberry Pi Operating System and Robo-Tank App Software Installation Manual Table of Contents Table of Contents 2 1. Install Raspberry Pi OS (Raspbian) 3 2. Access Raspberry Pi via SSH 10 3. Install Robo-Tank App 12 4. Other Manuals 13 1. Install Raspbe...

docs.google.com

Those white sensors aren't the best for ATO as they have a larger window between on/off, float switches or an optical sensor + float switch is the best. If you search Amazon for B083Q97XBY it'll be the first result. That will plug into the sensor extension you have, just need to set the jumper for the port on the extension to "Opt". Here's what I'm referring to. It's possible to run two optical, non-contact or float switches in any combination and use IF/AND conditions so one acts as a backup.

Robo-Tank Sensor Module Wiring Diagrams.docx

Sensor Extension Wiring Diagrams Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attempt repairs to commercial equipment ...

docs.google.com

Along with 1 or 2 sensors setup for the ATO you should add a float switch on the AC1 or AC2 backup port on the main controller, these are hardware backups for AC outlet 1 and 2. If software fails this will be guaranteed to turn off the outlet. All DC ports on equipment extension have the same backup ports. Here's what I'm referring to.

Robo-Tank Controller Wiring Diagrams.docx

Controller Wiring Diagrams Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attempt repairs to commercial equipment yourself...

docs.google.com

Good quality double sided tape works well to mount those white non-contact sensors. It's important the inside of the glass stays clean, algae will cause false readings.

You only need one temp sensor but never bad to have a backup. The app will email you if it detects a faulty sensor but can't promise that would happen in all scenarios. With two temp sensors you can control a heater based on IF/AND conditions so they work together, if one fails the other will catch it.

You can connect the A360we lights directly to the equipment extension using a 3.5mm male to male patch cable. You can connect up to 4. The second image on this page shows where you plug them in.

Robo-Tank Lighting/DC Module Wiring Diagrams.docx

Equipment Extension Wiring Diagrams Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attempt repairs to commercial equipment y...

docs.google.com

With that said you might experiencing a little flickering at low levels due to the frequency of the PWM pca9685 chip I'm using. I still haven't added the ability to change the frequency in the app yet, most require this. I should have that added soon though. Also the lighting control is still very basic in the app. You can set as many modes as you want with different times and the brightness at that time. Then it will go through all those modes and dim to the next mode at the speed based on the interval between the modes.

 

[Fish Fan]

Hi @Fish Fan glad to hear you got it working. Now when you put the Pi IP address in your browser you should see the login page. You will have to run the install script again if the startup wizard already ran without the controller present. Don't need to reinstall the Pi OS though, just run the script, it'll be quicker this time too. This page has the SSH commands to run.

Robo-Tank App Installation Manual - Windows.docx

Raspberry Pi Operating System and Robo-Tank App Software Installation Manual Table of Contents Table of Contents 2 1. Install Raspberry Pi OS (Raspbian) 3 2. Access Raspberry Pi via SSH 10 3. Install Robo-Tank App 12 4. Other Manuals 13 1. Install Raspbe...

docs.google.com

Those white sensors aren't the best for ATO as they have a larger window between on/off, float switches or an optical sensor + float switch is the best. If you search Amazon for B083Q97XBY it'll be the first result. That will plug into the sensor extension you have, just need to set the jumper for the port on the extension to "Opt". Here's what I'm referring to. It's possible to run two optical, non-contact or float switches in any combination and use IF/AND conditions so one acts as a backup.

Robo-Tank Sensor Module Wiring Diagrams.docx

Sensor Extension Wiring Diagrams Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attempt repairs to commercial equipment ...

docs.google.com

Along with 1 or 2 sensors setup for the ATO you should add a float switch on the AC1 or AC2 backup port on the main controller, these are hardware backups for AC outlet 1 and 2. If software fails this will be guaranteed to turn off the outlet. All DC ports on equipment extension have the same backup ports. Here's what I'm referring to.

Robo-Tank Controller Wiring Diagrams.docx

Controller Wiring Diagrams Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attempt repairs to commercial equipment yourself...

docs.google.com

Good quality double sided tape works well to mount those white non-contact sensors. It's important the inside of the glass stays clean, algae will cause false readings.

You only need one temp sensor but never bad to have a backup. The app will email you if it detects a faulty sensor but can't promise that would happen in all scenarios. With two temp sensors you can control a heater based on IF/AND conditions so they work together, if one fails the other will catch it.

You can connect the A360we lights directly to the equipment extension using a 3.5mm male to male patch cable. You can connect up to 4. The second image on this page shows where you plug them in.

Robo-Tank Lighting/DC Module Wiring Diagrams.docx

Equipment Extension Wiring Diagrams Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attempt repairs to commercial equipment y...

docs.google.com

With that said you might experiencing a little flickering at low levels due to the frequency of the PWM pca9685 chip I'm using. I still haven't added the ability to change the frequency in the app yet, most require this. I should have that added soon though. Also the lighting control is still very basic in the app. You can set as many modes as you want with different times and the brightness at that time. Then it will go through all those modes and dim to the next mode at the speed based on the interval between the modes.

Hey Rob! Thanks so much for your help and for sending the extra links! I'll read through what you sent, and actually try to setup some hardware tomorrow. I'll reach out again if/when I Have further questions.

Thanks again for your help with this!

 

[Fish Fan]

Those white sensors aren't the best for ATO as they have a larger window between on/off, float switches or an optical sensor + float switch is the best. If you search Amazon for B083Q97XBY it'll be the first result. That will plug into the sensor extension you have, just need to set the jumper for the port on the extension to "Opt". Here's what I'm referring to. It's possible to run two optical, non-contact or float switches in any combination and use IF/AND conditions so one acts as a backup.

Robo-Tank Sensor Module Wiring Diagrams.docx

Sensor Extension Wiring Diagrams Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attempt repairs to commercial equipment ...

docs.google.com

Along with 1 or 2 sensors setup for the ATO you should add a float switch on the AC1 or AC2 backup port on the main controller, these are hardware backups for AC outlet 1 and 2. If software fails this will be guaranteed to turn off the outlet. All DC ports on equipment extension have the same backup ports. Here's what I'm referring to.

Robo-Tank Controller Wiring Diagrams.docx

Controller Wiring Diagrams Safety Reminder READ & FOLLOW ALL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS DANGER Never handle electrical equipment with wet hands special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment Do not attempt repairs to commercial equipment yourself...

docs.google.com

I like the idea of using the optical sensors over the ones I have. Could you suggest a float valve, are you just using the ones from Gikfun or similar?

Gikfun float vales at Amazon

And is there a ready made mount for these to help secure them to my aquarium? I have an AIO here, so no sump. Or do I have to DIY some kind of mount?

Thanks very much for your help!

 

[robsworld78]

I like the idea of using the optical sensors over the ones I have. Could you suggest a float valve, are you just using the ones from Gikfun or similar?

Gikfun float vales at Amazon

And is there a ready made mount for these to help secure them to my aquarium? I have an AIO here, so no sump. Or do I have to DIY some kind of mount?

Thanks very much for your help!

No problem! Those float switches are the ones commonly used. They do sell some mounts for them, if you search Amazon for float switch mount you'll see some different types. Looking at this mount an optical sensor might fit it as well but can't be certain.

Float switch mount

 

[Fish Fan]

No problem! Those float switches are the ones commonly used. They do sell some mounts for them, if you search Amazon for float switch mount you'll see some different types. Looking at this mount an optical sensor might fit it as well but can't be certain.

Float switch mount

Thank you, I did a search for the mount and the one you linked was the only one I saw.

 

[Fish Fan]

@robsworld78 what options do I have to expand the Robo-Tank controllable AC outlets? Thanks in advance!

 

[robsworld78]

@robsworld78 what options do I have to expand the Robo-Tank controllable AC outlets? Thanks in advance!

You can add one more AC power bar to the main controller. After that you can add another extension ($25) allowing 2 more power bars.

 

[Fish Fan]

You can add one more AC power bar to the main controller. After that you can add another extension ($25) allowing 2 more power bars.

Ah! Thank you, I didn't notice that extra serial connection for a second AC bar on my controller until your reply lol!

 

[robsworld78]

Ah! Thank you, I didn't notice that extra serial connection for a second AC bar on my controller until your reply lol!

Those DB9 ports can also be used for extra sensors or DC ports using extensions I have.

 

[Fish Fan]

@robsworld78 Just an update and a couple questions, please. I sent you a little something via your PayPal, it's not much, but it's something just to say I really appreciate your project and your time and help here getting my system running. I'm also very interested in purchasing another full Robo-Tank setup for the 150 gallon I'm building after this 25 :)

I had this working just fine when I posted before, I could "see" the webserver at the Pi's IP address as mentioned. I then left it alone, went on a vacation, and when I came back I couldn't access the Robo-Tank webserver or SSH into the Pi at all. I tried to redo the install countless times, and nothing. I noticed that when my Pi Zero was booting, the green light would come on, blink once, then it was just on steadily. It was not flickering indicating any "drive" activity. I started to really think my Pi had gone bad somehow, especially since I got it used with my also used Robo-Tank system.

Right or wrong, I replaced the Pi Zero, and have been fine since :) Today I got the Robo-Tank webserver up and running, and have installed/setup some equipment (this tank is still dry). I'm still a little confused largely because I have never owned or used a controller like this at all.

I have two Kessil A360we's I'm running, and today I got them connected and working. I can turn them on and adjust the color and intensity from the sliders in the Robo-Tank webserver - awesome! Where do I go from here to get them on a timer and ideally to create a "dawn to dusk" type setup?

How do you suggest I run my heater(s). Currently, I have one BRS titanium 200 watt heater, but I'd like to "upgrade" to two 100 watt heaters for redundancy. I also have an Inkbird heater controller. My thought was to let the Inkbird control my heater(s), but back up the Inkbird with the Robo-Tank. Does that make sense? What do you recommend for heater setup?

Thank you very much for your help here, I really appreciate it!

 

[robsworld78]

@robsworld78 Just an update and a couple questions, please. I sent you a little something via your PayPal, it's not much, but it's something just to say I really appreciate your project and your time and help here getting my system running. I'm also very interested in purchasing another full Robo-Tank setup for the 150 gallon I'm building after this 25 :)

I had this working just fine when I posted before, I could "see" the webserver at the Pi's IP address as mentioned. I then left it alone, went on a vacation, and when I came back I couldn't access the Robo-Tank webserver or SSH into the Pi at all. I tried to redo the install countless times, and nothing. I noticed that when my Pi Zero was booting, the green light would come on, blink once, then it was just on steadily. It was not flickering indicating any "drive" activity. I started to really think my Pi had gone bad somehow, especially since I got it used with my also used Robo-Tank system.

Right or wrong, I replaced the Pi Zero, and have been fine since :) Today I got the Robo-Tank webserver up and running, and have installed/setup some equipment (this tank is still dry). I'm still a little confused largely because I have never owned or used a controller like this at all.

I have two Kessil A360we's I'm running, and today I got them connected and working. I can turn them on and adjust the color and intensity from the sliders in the Robo-Tank webserver - awesome! Where do I go from here to get them on a timer and ideally to create a "dawn to dusk" type setup?

How do you suggest I run my heater(s). Currently, I have one BRS titanium 200 watt heater, but I'd like to "upgrade" to two 100 watt heaters for redundancy. I also have an Inkbird heater controller. My thought was to let the Inkbird control my heater(s), but back up the Inkbird with the Robo-Tank. Does that make sense? What do you recommend for heater setup?

Thank you very much for your help here, I really appreciate it!

Thanks @Fish Fan I really appreciate it! Glad to hear you got things running again, hopefully no more connection issues. It is a good idea to do a test run for a while to get familiar with things and make sure everything is working how you like. If you look at the log frequently you can verify things are going as they should.

Currently the light modes are basic, if you go to the light mode page you can select the ports you are using for the lights and then add multiple modes to each port. You set the time you want the mode to start and the light level you want at that time. Here's an example that will ramp the lights up starting at 9:00am and turn off at 9:00pm. The first and last mode should be at 0% which will be the off period. If you want intensity to increase quicker you can add more modes between these time slots.

1st mode at 9:00am with a brightness of 0% (lights will start ramping up)
2nd mode at 12:00pm with a brightness of 30% (lights will be at 30% at 12:00pm)
3rd mode at 3:00pm with a brightness of 70% (lights will be at 70% at 3:00pm)
4th mode at 6:00pm with a brightness of 30% (lights will be at 30% at 6:00pm)
5th mode at 9:00pm with a brightness of 0% (lights will be off at 9:00pm)

It is a good idea to have redundancy for the heaters, for now you can use the custom rules to control the outlets that you have the Inkbird controllers plugged into. You create two custom rules such as the following, one is to turn on, the other is to turn off.

Custom Rule 1: If temp1 < 25.2 turn on Outlet 1
Custom Rule 2: If temp1 > 25.5 turn off Outlet 1

Just set the temperatures slightly higher/lower than what you set the Inkbird to.

Here's an example of what the custom rules should like after you create them. If you have different temperatures set for each heater you can split the custom rules creating 4 in total. You can also use multiple temperature sensors with AND/OR conditions if you want. Explore the customs rules as they can do a lot.

 

[Fish Fan]

Thanks @robsworld78 ! I hope to have some more time to work on it this evening. I'm sure I'll have more questions :-) Thanks for your help here!

 

[robsworld78]

Thanks @robsworld78 ! I hope to have some more time to work on it this evening. I'm sure I'll have more questions :) Thanks for your help here!

No problem, let me know how it goes.

 

[Fish Fan]

@robsworld78 if you're still out there, I am inches away from getting water in this tank finally, and I'm still trying to get the Rob-Tank system figured out. Today, I'm working on the ATO system, I'm using a optical sensor and a back up float switch.

I've plugged the optical sensor into the Optical Port 1 on the Robo-Tank sensor module, where do I plug the float switch and the DC pump into?

Thanks for your help!

 

[robsworld78]

@robsworld78 if you're still out there, I am inches away from getting water in this tank finally, and I'm still trying to get the Rob-Tank system figured out. Today, I'm working on the ATO system, I'm using a optical sensor and a back up float switch.

I've plugged the optical sensor into the Optical Port 1 on the Robo-Tank sensor module, where do I plug the float switch and the DC pump into?

Thanks for your help!

Hi @Fish Fan if you pump is 12v DC you can plug it into a DC port on the equipment extension. Above each port is a corresponding backup float switch port where you can plug in the float switch.

In the app go to the "Configure Ports" screen, click on each port you are using and make sure they are enabled. You'll see the optical sensor and an icon for the DC port on the main dashboard. Then you can create 2 custom rules, one will turn the pump on based on the optical sensor and the other custom rule will turn it off.

 

[Fish Fan]

Hello @robsworld78!!

Just an update here, but I officially and finally have had water in this tank for about 5 days now, no livestock yet. It took me a fair amount of fiddling with it, but the Robo-Tank system seems to be working well for me here. I can control my two Kessil lights, I just yesterday seemed to have figure out how to get the ATO system working, and of course I've got my pumps and other things plugged into the AC power bar. I also added a pH probe that seems to have calibrated and is working well, and I ordered a flow meter just for fun, but I don't know if I'll have enough room for it in this small tank; we'll see.

I do have a couple things I'm wondering about, nothing here is essential, but if you have any suggestions, I'd much appreciate it :)

For my ATO I'm using an optical sensor backed up with a float switch, but I have on hand a couple of the non-contact water level sensors. I would like to use these to monitor the water level in the ATO reservoir, but I'd have to extend the cable to a good 4 or maybe 5 feet in length. Do you see any reason these sensors will not work with Robo-Tank if I add that much extra to the cable?

I have all the various other adapters, controllers, the Robo-Tank system and everything electronic mounted in a small cabinet behind the tank. I am somewhat concerned that this cabinet will get hot, and may damage the electronics in the most extreme situations. I am considering installing a small muffin fan in this cabinet for ventilation, and I have a temp probe from the Robo-Tank in the cabinet now. It would be easy enough to use Robo-Tank to turn that fan on or off and some set temp, but I noticed there are now small fans that are PWM controllable. How hard would it be to set Robo-Tank up to control a fan via PWM and ramp the fan up/down as needed with the temp?

Is there a safe, secure, and easy way for me to view the Robo-tank webserver from outside my home network?

Is there an option for some kind of web camera to actually view the tank when not at home?

I really appreciate your help, thank you in advance!!!