Rocket Engineer's tank stand plans

[GuppyHJD]

RocketEngineer,
Did you use basic big box 2x4s or a furniture grade lumber?
I am planning to build the stand and then wrap the bottom with mahogany plywood held on by magnets.

 

[RocketEngineer]

While big box 2x4s would work, I would see about finding a lumber mill as their stock is usually better quality. Either way, look through what’s available, look for straightness, cup and twist. I’ve gone through half a bundle before trying to find good ones. Take the time, the results are worth it. Good luck.

 

[GuppyHJD]

While big box 2x4s would work, I would see about finding a lumber mill as their stock is usually better quality. Either way, look through what’s available, look for straightness, cup and twist. I’ve gone through half a bundle before trying to find good ones. Take the time, the results are worth it. Good luck.

I went to two local lumber yards...their wood sucked. In the end, I went to a big box who a) had alot more inventory and b) the lumber was much better. The lumber yard spruce did not have one 2x6 in almost a full bundle that had all for sides...two hours searching through what they had. The 2x4s were better, I found 4 of the needed 6 but finally gave up and went to the big box.

Now my question - should I coat the bottom with fiberglass or flex-coat to make the bottom waterproof and a 2" basin?

 

[JBKReef]

So a question here, 2x4 (1.5x3.5) against another 2x4 (1.5x3.5) gives me a thickness of 3 inches. On my first Rocket Stand I have screws that are barely seated within the wood. I used 3 inch deck screws.

To avoid this, my plan is to use 2.5 inch deck screws that are counter sunk into the wood.

structurally do you all see an issue with this?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Nope, those should be just fine.

 

[Davidafau]

You pink boards should be tightly between the top and bottom frames. Your green ones would run all the way top to bottom. Glue and screw works best. If you have ever framed, think of the green and pink boards as King and Jack studs. That how I built my stand for my 120

I am using the rocket design for a 120 gal w/ a corner drain. The corner drain conflicts with the green board. Would placing 2x6 boards 9" from the corner give it the same structural strength?

 

[RocketEngineer]

I am using the rocket design for a 120 gal w/ a corner drain. The corner drain conflicts with the green board. Would placing 2x6 boards 9" from the corner give it the same structural strength?

If you used something like pocket screws, you could remove them entirely.

 

[vikkid]

Resurrecting an old thread; hopefully someone will answer
I built my first stand (20gal) based on the design here, but for my second stand (55gal) I wanted to make slight changes to design. Most prominent being the addition of legs. I have attached some pics of the stand I intend to make(pieces not yet screwed in). This stand will be for an acrylic tank, so I'll be putting in a plywood on top.

Some highlights of the design-
1. I decided to make this design "with legs", hence the 6 4x4's.
2. The stand is sized so the tank would rest across the 6 4x4's and not on the cross pieces.; while the weight may still be evenly distributed on the 2x6's.
3. The 2x6's between the two frames/aprons can still support some weight as it can transfer down. Is this assumption right?
4. Fyi- I'm planning to use 3 5/8 ledgerlok screws for most of the joints between the 4x4 and the rest. Is there anything called to many screws i should be aware of?


Overall, how so you like my mods; any thoughts?

 

[redfishbluefish]

Well, I think it's safe to say, it will support the 55, and then some!

My comments/opinions:
1. The stand is overkill. I can't remember @RocketEngineer 's actual words, but it was something like up to a four foot tank, all dimensional lumber could be 2x4's....over four feet, the top frame should use 2x6's....in both cases, no center brace needed. Note that if you want "feet", they could still simply be added to Rocket's design...on just the corners. Again, center support isn't necessary.
2. I don't like 4x4's. Not only does it appear to take away any chance of fitting a sump, but you'd be better off simply not using them, or if you insist, just double up 2x4's Anyway, 4x4's at big box stores are poor quality .....they are center cut, and therefore have a tendency to warp, twist and bend in all different directions.
3. My preference on the corner legs is to include the side leg to overlap the upper frame corner, "supporting" both the side frame and front frame pieces. You can see it in this picture of the side purple leg supporting both the top frame yellow and red boards.

Again, if you build the above design, you could simply add "legs" to elevate the stand off the floor.....just in the corners. Actually, you could use little blocks of the 4x4 if you want. And if you don't mind giving up the space, you could use the 2x6's you've already cut for your corner posts....purple and green boards.