RODI unit

keatonmjenkins

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Hey All.

Why don’t more reefers use one of these?

This Waterdrop 600GPD RO system has a built-in pump, auto flush, and super fast flow. I run it for my kitchen faucet and just split the line to go to my reef water station.

All I did was add a DI resin canister after it and I’m getting 0 TDS straight to my tank.

No big booster pump, no manual flushing, and no pressure tank needed. It’s compact and works great. Feels like a no-brainer.
It’s also cheaper than what you would find in BRS with all the add ons.

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Well for one: the price.

Edit: actually it seems the price is comparable, did not realize RODI units became so expensive.

But for the same or slightly lower price, you get more chambers and DI incorporated in.

The standard aquarium RODI is more robust though, that much is true, and is easier to fix

It will break more easily as well
 
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Well for one: the price.

Edit: actually it seems the price is comparable, did not realize RODI units became so expensive.

But for the same or slightly lower price, you get more chambers and DI incorporated in.

The standard aquarium RODI is more robust though, that much is true, and is easier to fix

It will break more easily as well
This is a 7 stage filter. BRS you get 5 at this same price. Sure you have to get the DI but the ability to make 600 gallons in a day is huge vs 75. The built in pump is also a 100 dollar add on the BRS ones.
 
Still doesn’t change the fact that the BRS one is easier to fix/maintain.

Plus the GPD doesn’t really matter for aquariums, honestly.

Who needs 600 gallons per day on a RODI unit?

Not saying this is a bad unit by any means, but I would rather stick to the canister RODI
 
You won't get 600gpd, 0 TDS water out of that for very long and the replacement filters are proprietary and expensive compared to standard RO filters. No pressure tank means that it will be cycling on and off alot which shortens the life of membranes.

A classic style system will be cheaper and more reliable long term. But if it works better for you have at it!
 
You won't get 600gpd, 0 TDS water out of that for very long and the replacement filters are proprietary and expensive compared to standard RO filters. No pressure tank means that it will be cycling on and off alot which shortens the life of membranes.

A classic style system will be cheaper and more reliable long term. But if it works better for you have at it!
This is exactly what I was going to say here 🙂 If it works for you, go for it, but I wonder how much the replacement media costs, and how soon you would need to replace it.

Do we know what kind of carbon block this filter comes with? If you have chloramine as a sanitizer, and the carbon block is not meant for chloramine, you could burn through it really quickly. Not to mention you'd use DI media faster than needed as well.
 
This is exactly what I was going to say here 🙂 If it works for you, go for it, but I wonder how much the replacement media costs, and how soon you would need to replace it.

Do we know what kind of carbon block this filter comes with? If you have chloramine as a sanitizer, and the carbon block is not meant for chloramine, you could burn through it really quickly. Not to mention you'd use DI media faster than needed as well.
The replacement filters are about $150 for the pair, and obviously proprietary. Hard pass for me.
 
The replacement filters are about $150 for the pair, and obviously proprietary. Hard pass for me.
Yeah, I was afraid of something like that.
 
Yeah I get that but you’re getting double the use as a drinking source as well as water for the reef tank.
You just tee off the RO out line before the DI canister and you have RO for drinking and RO/DI for the aquarium. Cost just a few bucks for a tee fitting and tubing.
 
Same reason you get an electric pump from BRS to improve water pressure for membrane and resin.
a booster pump is used to improve RO membrane performance, this improves DI performance purely because the TDS out of the RO membrane(s) is lower at a higher system operating pressure!

— this brought my 150gpd system to ~240gpd… still 40% of the flow rate this 600GPD system pushes through its DI resin… and at 5-10x the RO product water purity of this 600gpd system…
 
Idk what to tell you I’m getting 0tds after resin and change resin out after 1.5 to 2 months while supply drinking water and faucet water. Not everything needs to come from BRS is what I’m saying.
 
Idk what to tell you I’m getting 0tds after resin and change resin out after 1.5 to 2 months while supply drinking water and faucet water. Not everything needs to come from BRS is what I’m saying.
I wholeheartedly agree that nothing has to come from BRS…. there are numerous vendors for great filtration systems! — my notes are about the physical design of this 600GPD RODI system…

I also get 0tds after my resin, but change it maybe once a year…

I also have drinking water at two faucets, RO to my ice maker, etc… two 2.8G accumulator tanks strategically placed so I can fill a pot in under a minute for cooking…

I’m here telling you that your system is designed around maximum numbers, not water quality… due to this, you will be consuming DI resin exponentially faster than a system designed around maximum water quality!

Take this information as you will, it’s a simple statement of facts!
 

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