Running aquarium equipment on 240V?

[ThRoewer]

I have maxed out the 120V circuit in my garage, which is a serious problem with all the tanks I have there and winter coming (additional heaters will trip the breaker).
Since we just renting the house, adding another circuit isn't an option.

But there is a 240V/40A EVSE NEMA 6-50R electric car charging outlet (which is grounded but doesn't have a neutral wire that would allow to split it into 2 120V circuits). So my thought is to put all LED lights and DC pumps on that circuit. Their electronic power supplies should generally be able to handle 240V as input.
The only issue is in finding outlet strips and power cables. I was thinking of using German Schuko connectors and power strips as they are rated for that voltage (250V actually) and (with some difficulty) available.

Any possible issues with that Idea?

 

[KrisReef]

Should be fine!

 

[ThRoewer]

Should be fine!

The 240V lines would be less prone to catching fire than the 120V lines.
Amperage is what heats wires and starts fires (and crappy power supplies that blow out).
At 240V you get the same wattage at half the amps you would pull with 120V.

 

[PeterEde]

Works fine in my garage. But then Australia runs on 240v

 

[ThRoewer]

Works fine in my garage. But then Australia runs on 240v

So does Germany and the rest of Europe.
Unfortunately, here in the US, 240V is less common for standard equipment. And to make it worse, there is a plethora of outlet/plug styles that make things quite complicated.

 

[KrisReef]

The 240V lines would be less prone to catching fire than the 120V lines.
Amperage is what heats wires and starts fires (and crappy power supplies that blow out).
At 240V you get the same wattage at half the amps you would pull with 120V.

Hey thanks for that reply. I have never heard that explained so clearly before. I knew that motors ran more efficiently on 240 but I never knew why. (I don't get electricity!) I would still hesitate to plug in a dc power supply that I thought was for 120 into a 240?

 

[CanuckReefer]

I have maxed out the 120V circuit in my garage, which is a serious problem with all the tanks I have there and winter coming (additional heaters will trip the breaker).
Since we just renting the house, adding another circuit isn't an option.

But there is a 240V/40A EVSE NEMA 6-50R electric car charging outlet (which is grounded but doesn't have a neutral wire that would allow to split it into 2 120V circuits). So my thought is to put all LED lights and DC pumps on that circuit. Their electronic power supplies should generally be able to handle 240V as input.
The only issue is in finding outlet strips and power cables. I was thinking of using German Schuko connectors and power strips as they are rated for that voltage (250V actually) and (with some difficulty) available.

Any possible issues with that Idea?

Electrician here.... possible yes with the wide voltage range on some equipment. However, the breaker feeding that receptacle at 50 amp is too much. You will need to ensure the rated amperage of the equipment you are tying in does not have an ability to draw more than it's ratings. The power strips you speak of, I would ensure they are certified for use in the US, along with any cord ends or receptacles which would need to be installed or changed. They may or may not be. GFCI breaker should be installed as well on any circuits. I suppose it's possible to ditch the charge receptacle, and install a small branch circuit panel. You mention you are renting the space. Does your landlord have an issue with your change of the electrical distribution? I'd think they would. And would at minimum request a certified electrician do the work.
Would I personally do it myself if requested? NO... there are too many variables with certification on any equipment or cables you are installing etc....these are just basic electrical thoughts coming to my mind immediate. Long and 'short' , avoid this idea IMO.

Happy reefing!

 

[Rmckoy]

You could ……
Run 220v to the garage but use a converter to spilt the 220v to 110v which is essentially a 3rd leg
Instead of the 2 wires and ground you would have 3 wires .
But ……. It could be costly installing another breaker panel supplied by 220

 

[CanuckReefer]

You could ……
Run 220v to the garage but use a converter to spilt the 220v to 110v which is essentially a 3rd leg
Instead of the 2 wires and ground you would have 3 wires .
But ……. It could be costly installing another breaker panel supplied by 220

Yes, a variety of autotransformer for instance. Rated at the input voltage of the car charger, and certified for North America. Then distribution after that at 240/120 v. I like that idea certainly more than bringing in all kinds of offshore equipment and cables.

My first suggestion would be to bring a 20 amp 120v GFCI circuit from main panel to the garage. Costs money but the simplest solution for an installation to code, and for peace of mind.

 

[Malcontent]

 

[theMeat]

Since the 220 line has two 110v powers you could make one a neutral and one a power to have another 110 outlet you could use. For this you’d need to change the breaker, and the receptical. Wouldn’t run equipment designed for 110 on 220

 

[CanuckReefer]

Since the 220 line has two 110v powers you could make one a neutral and one a power to have another 110 outlet you could use. For this you’d need to change the breaker, and the receptical. Wouldn’t run equipment designed for 110 on 220

Also a viable possibility. Dump the breaker to a 20 amp GFCI , one leg changed out to neutral, tap #12's onto the #6 wiring at either end. Once again if I were the renter and not a certified electrician, I would search one out to perform the work. Anything at all goes sideways and...............

 

[ThRoewer]

Since the 220 line has two 110v powers you could make one a neutral and one a power to have another 110 outlet you could use. For this you’d need to change the breaker, and the receptical. Wouldn’t run equipment designed for 110 on 220

Unfortunately, that output is a 6-50 and doesn't have a neutral line, just the 2 phases and ground. So there is no easy and safe way to split it.

The equipment I would run on the 240V line is all DC 12V or 24V equipment with universal electronic transformers. Those transformers are designed for worldwide use and can handle any input voltage between 85VAC to 250VAC.
So it is definitely designed to run on 240V.

I cannot do any changes to the breaker box or the wiring before the outlet. Everything has to be done after the wall outlet.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

You also have the option of something like this. May need a larger size than below, but should give you an idea of where to start. I deal with this issue for work all of the time in large manufacturing facilities where we have to install network equipment that is 110-120v and the only outlets available are 220v. The customer does not want to have a contractor come in and run a new circuit, so we use various APC battery back up to be the step down converter for the equipment. It is also the battery back up of the devices, which is part of the install anyways.

There is also the option of buying a step down converter.

APC Smart-UPS 700VA w/Auto Select Input Voltage 120V/230V In 120V Out (Not for sale in CO, VT or WA) - SU700X167 | APC USA

SU700X167 - APC Smart-UPS 700VA w/Auto Select Input Voltage 120V/230V In 120V Out (Not for sale in CO, VT or WA) | APC USA

www.apc.com

 

[CanuckReefer]

You also have the option of something like this. May need a larger size than below, but should give you an idea of where to start. I deal with this issue for work all of the time in large manufacturing facilities where we have to install network equipment that is 110-120v and the only outlets available are 220v. The customer does not want to have a contractor come in and run a new circuit, so we use various APC battery back up to be the step down converter for the equipment. It is also the battery back up of the devices, which is part of the install anyways.

There is also the option of buying a step down converter.

APC Smart-UPS 700VA w/Auto Select Input Voltage 120V/230V In 120V Out (Not for sale in CO, VT or WA) - SU700X167 | APC USA

SU700X167 - APC Smart-UPS 700VA w/Auto Select Input Voltage 120V/230V In 120V Out (Not for sale in CO, VT or WA) | APC USA

www.apc.com

Also a viable idea... I'd just make sure the breaker before it is not rated more than the max listed on the equipment. I suppose it could be fused switch or pony panel breaker in line after the 50 amp charge receptacle if needed, in order to dump it down to the ratings listed.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

Look on eBay for a NEW Buck-Boost Tanning Bed Transformer. Contact the Guy that makes them up to see if he can make one for your application and if it will be safe. Plug a 20 Amp GFCI Extension Cord Adapter into that. BTW, This Route is not cheap.