Seahorse First Aid Kit

[Thomashtom]

Ok thanks, if I do the freshwater dip how long should I keep him in it? The same as fish? I know to observe them while in dip. Are you talking about flukes? I usually use a black bucket to see if anything falls off him. I am vigilant with tank maintenance on my systems the only thing is I had a problem with my skimmer so I did a water change and fixed it. Thanks for your help. Tom

 

[Thomashtom]

Sorry if I see flukes should I keep him in DT and dip like every other day or QT him? Keeping water temp 68 would be impossible in QT. Thanks

 

[rayjay]

Normal FWD for seahorses is 12 minutes in water matching pH and temperature. If the seahorse thrashes around, and, shows evidence of parasites of any kind coming off, I normally leave it for the full 12 minutes.
IF HOWEVER, the seahorse has NO thrashing or evidence of parasites, OR if it becomes unresponsive to the touch, remove it at that time instead of waiting for the duration. I wouldn't dip it again unless there were signs that it has to be done as repeated dips too close together can stress it worse.
It should remain in the hospital tank until it is well again.
Unless the skimmer was out of commission for a long time, it will not be the major cause of this problem.
Unfortunately, like me when I started the hobby so many years ago, we tend to think we are doing enough to keep the tank clean with the water change frequency and amounts, but you can't deny the fact that if a problem occurs like this, it proves that protocols are NOT sufficient.
If you can't get it to 68, at least get it as low as possible and definitely lower than what it was at.

 

[Thomashtom]

Ok I only did it for 5 min and did not see anything fall off. He handled it well. I have about 700 gallons of saltwater systems so I am not new just to seahorses . I guess I can’t do it again for a couple of days right? Thanks

 

[rayjay]

Biggest mistake I ever made was thinking I was completely able to handle the new task of seahorse keeping as at the time I had a lifetime of aquarium keeping, and, had switched over to reef tanks and fish only tanks a little over 8 years prior. I had approximately the same gallonage that you currently have and then added the seahorse tanks gradually. Unfortunately, seahorse keeping was a WHOLE NEW ballgame. None of my fish EVER had the susceptibility even close to what seahorses have. Probably the worst I came across was my Achilles tang who was the worst of my many tangs, but took me forever to get it settled down and stop the ich infestations on it. Part of the reason for all my tanks was my extreme fondness for tangs and butterflies.
Anyway, back to your problem, if there was NO thrashing and no evidence of any parasites then you should not FWD again. Now it's a case of deciding whether to treat for a bacteria problem or an organ system problem needing Diamox.
IME, law of averages would say to treat for bacterial problem so that means treating with Furan II and tri-sulpha (triple sulpha). Make sure to have a heavy open ended airflow in that hospital tank.
Dose trisulpha by package instructions.
From http://forum.seahorse.org/index.php?showtopic=42497 find Furan II:
FURAN-2 (immersion) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for a 10g/38L Hospital Tank
Active Ingredient: Nitrofurazone and Furazolidone
Indication: bacterial infection
Disregard package info concerning water changes and duration of treatment. Dose medication daily for
10 days.
Replace the medication in ratio to the amount of water changed daily as needed to control ammonia.
This product is best administered by feeding it to adult live brine shrimp, then in turn, feeding those
animals to the Seahorse. If this is not an option, it may be administered as follows.
DAY 1 of Treatment
• Thoroughly mix one packet of Furan-2 with about 1 cup of marine water.
• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.
DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment
• Perform a 50% water change.
• Thoroughly mix one packet of Furan-2 with about 1 cup of marine water.
• Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.
Now IME of 25yrs of culturing and selling artemia, ignore the feeding to brine shrimp first unless you have a way to emulsify the Furan II solution.
Artemia ARE filter feeders, however, they filter the appropriate sized particles from the water VIA THEIR APPENDAGES, passing the particles forward to their digestive tract via the forward appendages (legs). While there is SOME solution entering along with the particles, I personally don't find it sufficient to be of any value over the just plain tank treatment.
If you can emulsify it then those particles CAN be taken in and passed to the digestive tract.
In my early years I tried both ways as well as both together and I NEVER found any improvement loading artemia.

 

[Thomashtom]

Hi Ray, first off I want to seriously thank you for your detailed response. And yes I would have to agree with you about seahorses!!! I did some research first but they are much more sensitive than I thought. I have kept different species of Octopus, flamboyant cuttlefish which are really hard to keep(very sensitive). Like you I also went through over 2 years of ich management which was very trying. Used CP twice, diatom filters and then I finally bit the bullet and treated my main DT tank with copper. Angels and tangs are my favorite. Do you still have Sohal? They are tough fish!! Anyway I have a 30 gallon QT I will setup tomorrow my wife is going to love me lol. My only concern is keeping the tank cool? I have chillers but they are plumbed into my DT tanks and are not set that low. Any suggestions? I would have set it up already but that is my concern. Thanks again I appreciate it. Tom

 

[rayjay]

Never had a Sohol tang. Achilles, powder blue, powder brown, blue tang Dory, 2 types sailfin, naso tang and blonde naso and a purple tang. Also had a large butterfly tank but can't even remember the names of a lot of them. (happens when you have Mild Cognitive Impairment)
I've had to drop out of reefing and fish only and just have the seahorse tanks running now. I'm 76 and have a deteriorating spine (shrunk a little over 4" so far) so I chose to drop the reefing as I'd been in it for 20+yrs but less time into seahorses. Also they were more of a challenge, especially as my first seahorses were H. reidi and they are much more difficult to raise, having smaller fry that need smaller food than artemia to start with, and are pelagic and don't hitch at birth.
I've recently stopped breeding them also due to worsening physical condition.
Back to your problem again, I don't recommend using the 30g tank unless you measure it off for a level of 10g. Otherwise you use 3 times the amount of medication, and, it takes more air supply to give proper aeration that's needed due to the meds. (and therefor more salt water for all the changes you need to do)
You can go the other extreme and use a 5g bucket and half the med dosing.
Of course, you need hitching for the seahorse for when it improves and doesn't want to lie down all the time but make sure it's just artificial. Fairly simple, new salt water, meds, aeration and hitching. Don't skimp on the airflow.

 

[Thomashtom]

Ok Thank you but what about temp? Its still warm here so keeping it 74 is going to be challenge!!! Its still not fall weather here its been getting into the 80s still. Sorry but any suggestions? Thanks Tom

 

[rayjay]

I didn't realize you have a temperature problem as earlier you mentioned the temp was 73-74°F. Temperature is a BIG factor, first in overall success in KEEPING seahorses, but also in rehabilitating seahorses that have succumbed to bacterial problems. Those nasty bacteria like the vibrio species will multiply EXPONENTIALLY with each rising degree, ESPECIALLY when the upward curve goes above 74°F.
Are there people who succeed using temperatures above that? Most definitely. However the MAJORITY of seahorses cannot handle it so it means the ones that DO succeed at higher temperatures have been fortunate enough to have purchased seahorses with great immunity. Most of us though will end up with one or more that CAN'T handle those temperatures in a closed environment.
If you are in a house, the basement would be a better, cooler place for the hospital tank, and, you can direct a large floor fan at the surface to aid in cooling. Make sure though to compensate for evaporation as it may really go up if the fan does it's job.
For me it's simple. I can't stand the heat, especially now that I've aged, so I keep the AC on set for 21°C (70°F). However, my H. abdominalis tank has to stay below 68°F so I bought a used 5,000BTU window AC that I have directed at the tank that is also in my basement. Works great.
Other than that, keeping frozen bottles of ice to sit in the tank and keep rotating helps but can be inconsistent.
If you ARE successful in keeping the display tank at the 73-74°F mark, then the hospital tank should be slightly lower because it doesn't have any equipment and lights that warm the tank.
That's all I can think of at the moment. Maybe someone else will read this and have other ideas. Time though is important now when a seahorse is in trouble.
Is it still eating? If so, try to get some adult brine shrimp and gut load them with an enrichment to use for it's food. Even if you can find some fresh water shrimp, they will live long enough for the seahorse to eat them usually. They can be fed spirulina flake in fresh water for a few hours before using them as food.

 

[Thomashtom]

No I meant in QT . How can I keep temp lower than 74 degrees ? The tank is 74 degrees . Thanks

 

[rayjay]

The hospital tank is what I was talking about (you call it a QT but if you medicate it's a hospital tank in my mind) from the point of "If you are in a house, the basement would be a better " onward. Fan ice bottles basement

 

[Thomashtom]

Ok I will use a fan cause my house does not have a basement. Lol. Which at a times is good but then again I it would be nice. Thanks again if don’t mind I would like to keep in touch? You have a wealth of knowledge Tom

 

[rayjay]

There are quite a few that frequent this forum that have a wealth of knowledge Tom.
It's wise to consider all experienced keepers advice really as there are many ways to succeed and sometimes you find one that really suits you best. My postings are limited to my OWN experiences over the years coupled with things I learn from sources I trust be it someone like Dan Underwood of seahorsesource.com or scholastic journals and papers.
I also place great respect for information that has been posted over the years on seahorse.org by a great number of individuals when they are in situations I have not personally experienced.
What I do find unfortunate is postings that steer new keepers in directions that are not consistent with what the majority of keepers currently accept as best way to succeed.
My biggest advantage probably is because I'm widowed, long time retired and unable to do many things I used to do so I end up online more than many. People with family and jobs may sometimes only get to go to the threads once a day or even less.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Good info! I'm bumping this up for anyone who needs it!

 

[Doctor Faust]

BUMP.

Does anyone have any experience with using Furan 2 or Diamox as a bath instead? One thing I never found a place to set up at is a hospital tank, and I don't like losing my horses to various, usually treatable diseases.

Additionally, does anyone have any pictures of catheters that they use or have in their kits, for purposes of type and size reference. Thank you.

 

[vlangel]

BUMP.

Does anyone have any experience with using Furan 2 or Diamox as a bath instead? One thing I never found a place to set up at is a hospital tank, and I don't like losing my horses to various, usually treatable diseases.

Additionally, does anyone have any pictures of catheters that they use or have in their kits, for purposes of type and size reference. Thank you.

When I kept my seahorses and one developed a skin infection, I found a Furan 2 to be very effective as a bath if I treated as soon as I saw the skin breakdown.
I used a 5 gallon salt bucket with a plastic plant for a hitch. I used an air pump with an open air hose. I followed the direction on the Furan 2 packaging so the changing the water happened naturally with the adding fresh medication.

 

[rayjay]

BUMP.

Does anyone have any experience with using Furan 2 or Diamox as a bath instead? One thing I never found a place to set up at is a hospital tank, and I don't like losing my horses to various, usually treatable diseases.

Additionally, does anyone have any pictures of catheters that they use or have in their kits, for purposes of type and size reference. Thank you.

I don't know if anyone would even try to use it as a bath treatment. They are meds that work over time and repeated dosages and don't work like treatments using formalin.
It's becoming a moot point though as meds are becoming, if not impossible to get (like here in Canada) without a vet's prescription.
That means then that we have to be much more diligent in proactively maintaining the water quality with larger more frequent water changes with husbandry coupled with better equipment to control levels of things like dissolved organics that are usually the cause of the bacterial increases and CANNOT be tested for because there are no test kits available to the hobbyist.
If you have a bacterial infection then you need to upgrade to improve water conditions, especially if you have repeated problems.