mfinn
likes zoanthids
BRS has a water saver that recycles the waste water from the ro membrane and runs it through a second membrane, cutting the amount of water going down the drain/ washer/ plants, etc.
Spectrapure also has some other options too.
Seattle 75, Scratch that, 120 Gallon Build
- Build Thread
- Thread starter rbarr110
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Spectrapure also has some other options too.
I cut all the pieces for the overflow but never put it together as the 120 tank I picked up had overflows built in.
As far as sump goes, haven't cut pieces out yet. Had some issues with my CNC I worked on this past weekend to get ready to cut, hopefully in the next week or so.
I picked up 2 WAV power heads and 2 of the Radion XR15's (still need 2 more), and the WXM module.
I am about a month over my self imposed schedule. Between 2 weeks of being sick and a mexico vacation, I haven't done nearly as much as I wanted. Getting very close to complete on the stand.
Need to finish the trim work and sand and stain the cabinet doors I made. The stand is intended to match my bar where the tank will be placed near it. I figure the hood can wait until the sump is cut out and put together.
I am about a month over my self imposed schedule. Between 2 weeks of being sick and a mexico vacation, I haven't done nearly as much as I wanted. Getting very close to complete on the stand.
Need to finish the trim work and sand and stain the cabinet doors I made. The stand is intended to match my bar where the tank will be placed near it. I figure the hood can wait until the sump is cut out and put together.
Last edited:
Still need to do a little more work on the base cabinet. But over the weekend I started pulling romex to get a dedicated circuit installed for the aquarium. Once the circuit is added, and I wrap up the clear coat on the base cabinet, I can start plumbing and hopefully start cycling the tank...
Question on cycling: Is there any reason to have lights up when cycling? If yes, then cycling will have to wait a little longer because I haven't started making the hood yet.
Question on cycling: Is there any reason to have lights up when cycling? If yes, then cycling will have to wait a little longer because I haven't started making the hood yet.
mfinn
likes zoanthids
No, you don't need lights to cycle rock.
So I cant catch a break, shoulder has been bugging me and the work I did last weekend pushed me over my pain threshold and I finally went to see a doctor about my shoulder. Torn rotator cuff, needless to say doing any work where my arm is raised above my chest hurts like hell.
The work I was doing last weekend was installing 1x furring strips along my basement wall where there is exposed concrete so I can run new electrical for the tank and install new wood trim. The drilling of the concrete screws is what likely did me in. So I am ignoring my doctor and still going to do some light duty work and run the electrical for the tank. I was going to just run one line for a new 20 amp circuit. Will the one line be enough, or should I run 2 lines and have 2 circuits?
The work I was doing last weekend was installing 1x furring strips along my basement wall where there is exposed concrete so I can run new electrical for the tank and install new wood trim. The drilling of the concrete screws is what likely did me in. So I am ignoring my doctor and still going to do some light duty work and run the electrical for the tank. I was going to just run one line for a new 20 amp circuit. Will the one line be enough, or should I run 2 lines and have 2 circuits?
mfinn
likes zoanthids
Sorry to hear about the shoulder.
I had 2 separate circuits installed and I'm glad I did.
While most of my electrical can reach one of the outlets, and handle the load. It always seems like there is one cord that just doesn't reach.
That, and if something happens to one of the circuits, you will always have the other.
I am looking for a recommendation on a pump to run a manifold and my UV sterilizer. Probably have (3) 1/2" valves for feeding up to 3 reactors of some sort in the future and pump around 160 gph through my Emperor 40 watt UV sterilizer with a head of up to 6 feet. So it has to maintain 160 gph after the (3) 1/2" valves. Any recommendations? I was thinking of just getting a 2nd COR 20 pump, but that would be significant overkill.
mfinn
likes zoanthids
Since you have multiple future outlets to feed, I'd suggest a dc pump that you can power down for the single use, then power up when the added devices need flow.
And you want to be able to use the pump with a Apex, so maybe a VarioS or the COR 20 would be best.
I was going to suggest the Vectra S1, but it's not Apex compatible.
Made some good progress this weekend. Finished staining the stand and cabinet doors. Just have to start the clear coat, should be bale to do a lot of that after work during the week. Also did the hard part of the wiring running romex and network cables behind the wall finishes and through the second floor framing to the garage. Just have to run some more romex through some conduit to the breaker panel in the garage which will be way easier than trying to fish wire behind the drywall. Did two separate dedicated 20 amp GFCI outlets to the location where the aquarium will go.
rawhideshaba
Community Member
Vectra M1 or S1 either would be good and if you add the reeflink your 4 lights and pumps can all be controlled from your phone/computers. You already have the lights so sticking with ecotech isnt a bad idea for your pumps. I persinally love my M1.
Slowly still moving along, my lack of desire to put clear coats on the stand and cabinet doors has slowed me down. Finally got 2 of the 4 the doors done. I figure in about 10 days I will start cycling the tank, assuming I finish my aquascape layout. (You can see the tape around where I mounted the concealed hinges but is coming off) I have a few pieces of trim to add to the stand, but that can wait for when I work on the hood.
Still playing with the layouts.
OK, aquascape 90% complete. Need to add a few pieces to flatten out the left side of the rocks slightly above the base. Its hard to see in the photos, but I built various levels of relatively flat shelves above the arches and other spots to place corals. Leaving areas for some live rock to help the cycle out as well.
Also moved the stand and tank inside the house. The stand still has trim work to complete, but that can be done while rock cycles. ALSO - You can see the water spots on the inside of the glass, whats the best way to remove them?
I ended up redesigning the sump for the fourth time after I realized the probe holder and ATO needed more space.
Here is the final design and some of the cuts for the drain lids I started last night to test out the CNC after moving it around in the garage.
Here is the final design and some of the cuts for the drain lids I started last night to test out the CNC after moving it around in the garage.
Last edited:
mfinn
likes zoanthids
I would warm some vinegar in a pan and use a nylon kitchen sponge/scrub pad.
Be sure it's just nylon.
I finished the run of two new 20 AMP lines and network cable to where I am putting the aquarium. You can see the 1 x furring and trim I am putting around the base of the wall (the work that also messed up my shoulder) to hide the exposed concrete. You can also see where my bulldog discovered that he likes the taste of spackle and drywall mud and ate the patch on the wall for the wiring.
Slight delay in the adding water to the tank process. However, I made the last of the acrylic cuts to make the sump. Was planning on starting the rock cycle with an empty tank, but since I will probably add water next weekend instead, I can put the sump together and have it ready for cycling.
Last edited:
Similar threads
