Set up QT quickly

[laurendonatella]

can anyone advise on how to set up a QT quickly? TIA

 

[EmdeReef]

All you need is a heater (ideally with a temp controller) and a wave maker, add water.

If you can add bacteria like biospira or dr tims etc that’s great. If you don’t have it on hand right away you can always add tomorrow.

 

[LAReefer4Life]

What are you trying to accomplish? How many fish do you need to place in QT?

What equipment do you need

• 10-30 gallon Quarantine tank or large plastic bin
• Heater
• Thermometer to read temp
• Small HOB filter (optional)
• Air pump and air stone to help promote higher PH.
• Some type of hiding place for the fish (PVC Piping)
• One & Only Nitrifying bacteria
• Ammonia Alert Badge

Since the tank has not been cycled you will need to conduct 50% daily water changes to keep ammonia levels in check.

Check out this quick video.

 

[Mariette]

I’ve set up, taken down, and re set up a qt a bunch of times. Never used nitrifying bacteria or cycled it in any way. I’ve used water from DT, pvc bows to hide in, heater, thermometer, HOB filter, air stone. Bare bottom. Simple and clean.

 

[LAReefer4Life]

I’ve set up, taken down, and re set up a qt a bunch of times. Never used nitrifying bacteria or cycled it in any way. I’ve used water from DT, pvc bows to hide in, heater, thermometer, HOB filter, air stone. Bare bottom. Simple and clean.

It really depends 0n the use of QT. If you're trying to combat a parasite using water from DT will keep contaminating the water. It also depends on how many fish are being housed in the QT tank. Ammonia will quickly rise if there isn't enough beneficial nitrifying bacteria.

 

[laurendonatella]

Unfortunately- I have to quarantine my entire tank which includes about 10 different fish. I may be a little premature but I see a white spot on my Tang and I’m afraid I’m having a break out. I don’t want to jump the gun in the event that it is nothing, but I definitely have a bad feeling that I’m going to wake up tomorrow to an outbreak. I have a 60 gallon quarantine tank (never used). HOB, ammonia badge alert, heater, wave maker, pvc. I’ve also seeded a Biowheel by having it in the sump of my display tank. But with brand new water in there, won’t I have an ammonia spike even if I’m using a seeded bio wheel?

 

[Mariette]

It really depends 0n the use of QT. If you're trying to combat a parasite using water from DT will keep contaminating the water. It also depends on how many fish are being housed in the QT tank. Ammonia will quickly rise if there isn't enough beneficial nitrifying bacteria.

The number of fish spiking ammonia is a fair point. I’ve put up to 3 (all about 3 inches) in a 20g qt to treat w copper w just a HOB filter, air stone, heater and pvc elbows. No water change for the 2 weeks of treatment. No live rock. No water conditioner. Bare bottom. No ammonia spike. Maybe I got lucky.
You know what I never understood? Why tank water was a bad idea when fighting parasites. If the fish have them already, and your about to kill them w meds, does it really make much of a difference? Guess it would increase the number of parasites for a short while so that can’t be good. But it also ensures that 100% of the parameters are exactly the same. I dunno. Seems more like an issue to use contaminated DT water to qt a new fish but then, if DT is contaminated, it’s probably not the best time to be getting new fish anyway
That’s just my 2 ce Rd.

 

[LAReefer4Life]

Looks like you're well prepared, nice job. How long has the bio wheel been in sump and what do you mean new water in DT?

In regards to ich, did you add something recently? Why do you think it is ich?

 

[laurendonatella]

Oh sorry- I meant new water in the QT. Bio wheel has been in sump for about 3 months.

And yeah, I added a flame angel and a monster of a banana wrasse. I bought off of divers den and didn’t do my own separate QT (like an idiot). No one else is showing any signs or symptoms other than the tang. But the wrasse has quickly established himself as the dominant fish of the tank (he was my last add because I knew he would rule the roost) but I can see my white brissletooth tang is not responding well to being overthrown. The wrasse isn’t bothering him or anything, but my Tang knows he’s lost his crown. Either that or he is teaching me a dang lesson by breaking out with Ich.

So if I run the QT with new water running a seeded bio wheel for a day or two, and then maybe transfer a fish or two over per day, is there a chance I’ll kill them all with ammonia exposure? I do have an ammonia badge so not flying totally blind.

Ugh totally beating myself up right now. Word to anyone reading this... do your own QT!


Thanks everyone for helping in my hour of need.

The number of fish spiking ammonia is a fair point. I’ve put up to 3 (all about 3 inches) in a 20g qt to treat w copper w just a HOB filter, air stone, heater and pvc elbows. No water change for the 2 weeks of treatment. No live rock. No water conditioner. Bare bottom. No ammonia spike. Maybe I got lucky.
You know what I never understood? Why tank water was a bad idea when fighting parasites. If the fish have them already, and your about to kill them w meds, does it really make much of a difference? Guess it would increase the number of parasites for a short while so that can’t be good. But it also ensures that 100% of the parameters are exactly the same. I dunno. Seems more like an issue to use contaminated DT water to qt a new fish but then, if DT is contaminated, it’s probably not the best time to be getting new fish anyway
That’s just my 2 ce Rd.

 

[LAReefer4Life]

The number of fish spiking ammonia is a fair point. I’ve put up to 3 (all about 3 inches) in a 20g qt to treat w copper w just a HOB filter, air stone, heater and pvc elbows. No water change for the 2 weeks of treatment. No live rock. No water conditioner. Bare bottom. No ammonia spike. Maybe I got lucky.
You know what I never understood? Why tank water was a bad idea when fighting parasites. If the fish have them already, and your about to kill them w meds, does it really make much of a difference? Guess it would increase the number of parasites for a short while so that can’t be good. But it also ensures that 100% of the parameters are exactly the same. I dunno. Seems more like an issue to use contaminated DT water to qt a new fish but then, if DT is contaminated, it’s probably not the best time to be getting new fish anyway
That’s just my 2 ce Rd.

I agree using DT water during the initial setup is the way to go for the water chemistry and bacteria, but water changes should be conducted with a fresh batches. Since there is 10 fish in the DT ammonia will quickly rise in this scenario. Water changes daily will be important or based on the ammonia badge reading.

 

[Mariette]

I agree using DT water during the initial setup is the way to go for the water chemistry and bacteria, but water changes should be conducted with a fresh batches. Since there is 10 fish in the DT ammonia will quickly rise in this scenario. Water changes daily will be important or based on the ammonia badge reading.

100% agreed

 

[LAReefer4Life]

3 months of running bio wheel is awesome! Here is what I recommend.

- Don't move any fish until you confirm you're dealing with ich. Keep a close eye on the tank inhabitants and see what plays out. Ich spots will remain on the fish for 3-7 days so if it disappears tomorrow you're looking good.

- Setup QT anyways and make sure you have copper on hand just in case, you will need a reliable copper tester. Hanna checker is the best way to go. Use water from your DT for the initial setup but use fresh saltwater when you conduct water changes. Use half recommend dose of copper and slowly raise to therapeutic levels over 2-3 days depending on the health of the fish.

- Do NOT use PRIME or any ammonia reducers as they will have ill effects on fish being medicated in copper

 

[laurendonatella]

Awesome- thanks, now I have coral in my DT. If I take half my water from my DT and then half new water for my QT, you think that is ok? I just want to make sure I don’t crash my coral by doing a 100% WC on them

 

[laurendonatella]

Oh... I also have a ton Of marine pure bio media balls in my sump... any chance I can just throw some in my QT to help it cycle? I have some spares that I can replace in my sump. Would that do anything to help my cause?

And won’t use prime but I can still use biospira right?

 

[LAReefer4Life]

Yes, half DT & new water is still beneficial. You can absolutely use the bio balls, just place them in the media chamber of your HOB filter so it has water movement pushing through them. Between the biowheel and media balls you're off to a really good start. Just use that ammonia badge and have back up water ready to conduct large water change if need be.

 

[laurendonatella]

Awesome- thank you all!!

 

[LAReefer4Life]

Keep us posted please and good luck!

 

[laurendonatella]

Keep us posted please and good luck!

Will do!

 

[laurendonatella]

So quick update- my Tang only ever developed 2 white spots. They did look like little fuzzy specs of salt so I want to say it’s ick. But they are now for the most part gone and no additional symptoms. All other fish look good too. I’m keeping my QT going just Incase there is an outbreak. Anyone have any ideas? Could he have Ich but he is just fighting it off successfully? Any idea how long I should leave my QT running?