Ich in tank please help!

asapcjp

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Hi guys, I’m new to this forum.

My tank is about 4 months old. I’m new to reefing and I definitely rushed things by adding a lot of fish and coral too quickly. Last week, I noticed one of my fish had a lot of white spots, and the next morning I found it dead. Now, a week later, all of my fish have died (I believe due to ich).

At this point, all my fish are gone but my corals continue to thrive. How do I get rid of the ich in the tank before adding new fish? I don’t have the space to set up a QT tank. And before anyone says it—I know I should have quarantined fish beforehand.

Any advice would be appreciated!
 
Hi guys, I’m new to this forum.

My tank is about 4 months old. I’m new to reefing and I definitely rushed things by adding a lot of fish and coral too quickly. Last week, I noticed one of my fish had a lot of white spots, and the next morning I found it dead. Now, a week later, all of my fish have died (I believe due to ich).

At this point, all my fish are gone but my corals continue to thrive. How do I get rid of the ich in the tank before adding new fish? I don’t have the space to set up a QT tank. And before anyone says it—I know I should have quarantined fish beforehand.

Any advice would be appreciated!
Welcome to Reef2Reef!

I'm sorry to read about your fish losses, that's tough, but it's happened to most of us.

I'm not one of the R2R Fish Medic team, but I think one approach is to allow the tank to remain running without fish (fallow) for about 45-60 days. This will allow any fish parasites to die off without a fish host to complete their lifecycle. Corals and other inverts should be fine. Don't add anything at all during the fallow period, not even snails.

Here's a good thread with more info on this:

In the future, consider QT'ing your fish or purchasing pre-QT'ed fish from one of the vendors who offers that now. Here's the R2R protocol for QT:

Good luck going forward!
 
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45 days eh? Haven’t heated that before but sounds like we need a new study. I always stick to 76 days for anything from another tank that has a hard surface. Urchins don’t need QT surprisingly.

Copper QT for fish.

A QT can be a 10 gallon tank in another room with filter and heater. Nothing fancy.
 
Hi guys, I’m new to this forum.

My tank is about 4 months old. I’m new to reefing and I definitely rushed things by adding a lot of fish and coral too quickly. Last week, I noticed one of my fish had a lot of white spots, and the next morning I found it dead. Now, a week later, all of my fish have died (I believe due to ich).

At this point, all my fish are gone but my corals continue to thrive. How do I get rid of the ich in the tank before adding new fish? I don’t have the space to set up a QT tank. And before anyone says it—I know I should have quarantined fish beforehand.

Any advice would be appreciated!
Please post video of tank to confirm if you actually have ich before taking any steps going forward
 
45 days eh? Haven’t heated that before but sounds like we need a new study. I always stick to 76 days for anything from another tank that has a hard surface. Urchins don’t need QT surprisingly.

Copper QT for fish.

A QT can be a 10 gallon tank in another room with filter and heater. Nothing fancy.

Take a look at the post - 45 days works at higher temperatures, but I’ve settled on 60 days for temps below 80.
The 76 days came from a single paper looking at ich tomonts in xeric culture. The author even said that the tomonts don’t last that long in real world systems.
 
Take a look at the post - 45 days works at higher temperatures, but I’ve settled on 60 days for temps below 80.
The 76 days came from a single paper looking at ich tomonts in xeric culture. The author even said that the tomonts don’t last that long in real world systems.
What would it be closer to 75-76F? I’m curious as I run my tank around 76 year round.
 
What would it be closer to 75-76F? I’m curious as I run my tank around 76 year round.

60 days still works. Below 70 degrees and things get weird - where Ich seems to hang on longer.

The whole fallow period idea has multiple variables; water temperature, how many Ich parasites were present when the fallow period started, water flow, type of substrate, and probably other variables as well.
 
Please post video of tank to confirm if you actually have ich before taking any steps going forward
Second this. Visuals will always help in giving proper ID to the infection & proper course of action. There are several infections that are similar but require completely different approaches & treatments, the reason for the need of a visual. Just saying for future reference. Good luck
 

Circulation pumps are off in the video
 
I added a uv filter, was told by LFS that it would help. Is this true ?
 
I added a uv filter, was told by LFS that it would help. Is this true ?

If sized properly, it might offer some benefit, but don’t count on these to cure active protozoan diseases, and they don’t help with flukes at all.
 

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