Severe ich or velvet?

Jay Hemdal

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As I mentioned, I would treat the eel also - that way you won’t have to worry about it being a chronic carrier.

Skip the metro - it is totally overrated for treating ich.

Don’t take more than 24 hours to get to a 2.25 ppm dose of coppersafe.

Be sure the 40 gallon has an effective biofilter, you don’t want to get into a situation of managing ammonia in a tank that you are treating for ick.
 
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lildeerslayer

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As I mentioned, I would treat the eel also - that way you won’t have to worry about it being a chronic carrier.

Skip the metro - it is totally overrated for treating ich.

Don’t take more than 24 hours to get to a 2.25 ppm dose of coppersafe.

Be sure the 40 gallon has an effective biofilter, you don’t want to get into a situation of managing ammonia in a tank that you are treating for ick.
I just need some more time to figure out what to put the eel in if I treat him.

Ive got multiple other tanks im sure have asymptomatic ich, is it worth it to treat everyone?
One 300gal with 2x 150s in line with it, I was hoping to put the tangs in one of the 150s after treatment. Think they would just break out again if I didn't medicate my other fish in the 300gal section?

Also I have seachem cupramine and copperpower arriving tommorow. Coppersafe would take a week or I can buy a gallon and get it tuesday. Should I get that anyways?
 
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lildeerslayer

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As I mentioned, I would treat the eel also - that way you won’t have to worry about it being a chronic carrier.

Skip the metro - it is totally overrated for treating ich.

Don’t take more than 24 hours to get to a 2.25 ppm dose of coppersafe.

Be sure the 40 gallon has an effective biofilter, you don’t want to get into a situation of managing ammonia in a tank that you are treating for ick.
Also for the biofilter, should I just take some media from a canister on a different tank and sacrifice it for copper treatment? Or should I sacrifice some live rock from a system for it?
 

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I guess I'd say Ich as well....looks really heavy on the clown maybe just due to his slime coat.

If you can remove and treat them, that's going to be the recommendation.

If you cannot remove them, you're in for a tough road I think, the options in-tank are much more limited. You will at least need to deploy strong UV and micron filters (micron filtration may be more effective than UV if it's really Ich – do you have a microscope?), but something like Ruby Reef's Rally and Kick Ich would also be an option.

You also need to do EVERYTHING POSSIBLE to remove stress from the display tank, or things will only get worse even with treatment. If there is any chasing or aggression, you have to remove the offender or the target – one of them, preferrably the agressor, has to go. But this goes for any excess stress in the tank (ie. over stocking, anything)....gotta go NOW.
I guess I'd say Ich as well....looks really heavy on the clown maybe just due to his slime coat.

If you can remove and treat them, that's going to be the

Looks like ich heavy on that clown
Also are you running a skimmer. I see a film on the top layer of the water. can also stress the tank not helping the disease your fish have.
Test your water and post the results. Best of luck!
Thanks! No skimmer currently, I have a couple hob skimmers I could set up.

Nitrate: 20ppm (Sits at over 100 typically)
Phosphate: 2.0ppm
Ammonia: 0ppm
Ph: 7.6
Salinity:1.020 (Was like that overnight, I brought it to 1.022 now)
Nitrate levels start to stress fish over 50 ppm, you stated it gets up to 100 sometimes so keep a eye on that.
As well as your ph should be around 8- 8.3 if im not mistaking
I keep my tanks ph on a stable 8.3 marine buffer by seachem. and i keep my salinty at 1.025-.26
Also it don’t hurt to throw in some stress coat + to prevent disease!
 
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lildeerslayer

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Nitrate levels start to stress fish over 50 ppm, you stated it gets up to 100 sometimes so keep a eye on that.
As well as your ph should be around 8- 8.3 if im not mistaking
I keep my tanks ph on a stable 8.3 marine buffer by seachem. and i keep my salinty at 1.025-.26
Also it don’t hurt to throw in some stress coat + to prevent disease!
Ok ill try to keep nitrates lower from now on. Tbh I thought high nightrates were tolerable in a fowlr, always more to learn though.
I need to get a new ph test kit because mine is like 20 years old probably ngl. But yeah I never really check ph in my tanks because I dont have coral, should I be checking it more?

I'd have to get an ato to keep my salinity that high comfortably, maybe can after I fallow it.
 

Jay Hemdal

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I just need some more time to figure out what to put the eel in if I treat him.

Ive got multiple other tanks im sure have asymptomatic ich, is it worth it to treat everyone?
One 300gal with 2x 150s in line with it, I was hoping to put the tangs in one of the 150s after treatment. Think they would just break out again if I didn't medicate my other fish in the 300gal section?

Also I have seachem cupramine and copperpower arriving tommorow. Coppersafe would take a week or I can buy a gallon and get it tuesday. Should I get that anyways?

Copper power is essentially the same as coppersafe - I would use that. Cupramine is a bit harsher.

Online tanks on a system are tough to speculate on - the ich tomonts are on the substrate, so are unlikely to move tank to tank. If you had mechanical or UV going from one tank to the next, that would really limit transfer of swimming tomites. Even without that, fewer tomites are going to move from one tank to the next.
 

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