Shallow @flexxreef project

hadri420

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Hi everyone!!

In this thread, I’m going to share my reef tank project with you—a shallow tank of about 70 liters (display) and a total volume of 110–120 liters (overkill sump).

The project is scheduled to launch sometime in July (hopefully), but in the meantime, I’m getting everything ready so I can start as soon as possible.

As for me, I’m 22 years old and already have some experience with reef tanks. For a year, I tried keeping LPS corals in a 10-liter pico tank (S/O PNW Custom) with varying degrees of success.

I’m a bit of a perfectionist and always try to find new approaches in everything I undertake.

As a big fan of the shallow tank design (I had the 2.5-gallon Shallow Frag Tank from PNW Custom), I decided to go with the same tank shape but in a larger size.

The tank itself will measure 50W x 50W x 25H cm and will sit on an extruded aluminum stand (Maker Beam 2020).

The stand’s level will be adjustable using four adjustable feet

Regarding the technical aspects

Here are the details of the equipment I’ve chosen:

- [ ] Custom tank (50 cm x 50 cm x 25 cm) made of Pilkington OptiWhite glass
- [ ] Stand (custom-made from extruded aluminum / MakerBeam)
- [ ] Acrylic panels
- [ ] Wood trim
- [x] AF275 sump tank
- [ ] 800 gph Modular Marine overflow box OR 600 gph Fiji overflow box
- [ ] PVC piping
- [ ] Downpipe to settling tank with gate valve
- [ ] “Emergency” downpipe to sump
- [ ] Return to tank with shut-off valve and manifold-style branch for adding equipment such as reactors
- [ ] Aqua Illumination Axis 40 return pump
- [x] Reactors
- [x] AF90
- [x] Aquamedic Multireactor S
- [ ] Skimmer ???
- [x] Smart ATO Nano G2
- [ ] Reverse osmosis unit
- [x] Maxspect Bioballs
- [x] Maxspect Bioblocks
- [x] AF Live Sand
- [x] AF Live Rocks
- [x] Sicce Scube 100W Heater
- [x] AI 16HD
- [x] Jebao SLW5 Circulation Pump 3000 l/h
- [ ] Neptune Apex A3 system
- [ ] MXM module
- [ ] PAR module
- [x] Hospital/acclimation/frag tank
- [ ] DIY algae scrubber
- [ ] Acrylic panels
- [ ] Feed pump fittings
- [ ] Mounting system
- [ ] Venturi (air injection into water)
- [x] Polyp Pro Bioballs holders
- [x] Polyp Pro Bioblock holders
- [x] Polyp Pro heater holder

already owned/bought : [x]
need to buy : [ ]

Note that this includes equipment I already had for the pico tank, as well as new equipment

The idea is to keep things as simple as possible so that the maintenance routine is easy to follow (my girlfriend will be involved in the project, and she has little to no experience with reef keeping), so adding the Apex 3 fits right in with that.

As for stocking, I haven’t decided on the species yet, but I’d really like to give these a try:

Mandarin fish

Lybia tesselata

Porcelain crab

Pistol shrimp + Watchman goby

Clams

Boxfish (I know this one is a bit tricky since it can “wipe out the tank,” even though there’s not much chance of that happening)
garden eel (I KNOW THIS ONE IS TRICKY TOO)

some interesting morphs of clownfish

wrasse—I just don’t know which ones

I realize I could never have all of these at the same time and that I’ll have to make some choices, but that’s the general idea

Also, the tank will be primarily LPS-dominant

here’s a sneak peak of what it will look
20260402_165221_6C61FE66-486B-44F4-A408-A3F47F4E48B2.png


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20260402_165221_AA439BBA-6955-49B9-814A-77F7C16F0329.png
 
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hadri420

hadri420

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today i got one box of good coming from polyp pros (100% recommend them if you are in 🇪🇺 or uk )
20260408_84930 a.m._4CAE7A68-C12F-45D4-A8C4-B67566D967BE.png


20260408_84930 a.m._55C33A0A-D00C-4F1A-B2ED-28D65FBEAC71.png


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these are Maxspect bio blocks and
bioballs holder and a heater holder as well
 

Gumbies R Us

God, Bouldering, and Reefing
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Following along!
 
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hadri420

hadri420

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OKAY OKAY
first i would like to thank the few lads that are following along on this thread!!

I think this might be the time to start discussing about few things i’m not really sure about :
PAR/ spectrum (the goal is to build the right program for the tank and as it will be very shallow need to be dialed in correctly)
FLOW ( don’t know much about this as it wasn’t that much of a concern on the pico but i know i’m going to think a bit more about this on this project)

maybe later i would like to share my thoughts and theories/ options on carbon dosing and biopellets reactor
 
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tbrown

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Par and spectrum is a loaded question! You're going to potentially get some conflicting answers here.

My personal preference is heavy blue. My understanding is blue spectrum "primarily" not entirely contributes to growth and color. I've heard/read that white spectrum Par isn't necessarily factored into usable Par, at least not entirely.

With all that said, more Par is more Par.
 
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hadri420

hadri420

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Hey there

little update on this project!!

i’m choosing the overflow box in the next few days and i need to decide which one between the 800 gph Modular Marine overflow box OR 600 gph Fiji overflow box i need to choose!!

first ! has anyone here been trying thoses?

i know i should go for the highest gph possible BUT i dont want to have a big butt overflow box that will look like a elephant in a box as the back wall will be raw glass (no black cover as for now)

also what i like about the modular marine is that you can take apart the weir for cleaning/maintenance and it’s very thin but can you trust the bulkheads??

i’m open to any suggestions and advices
 

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I don't have either of them but I will say that if you don't match the gph to your return pump you risk getting air in the overflow tube which can cause an airlock and stop the overflow from working.
 
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hadri420

hadri420

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I don't have either of them but I will say that if you don't match the gph to your return pump you risk getting air in the overflow tube which can cause an airlock and stop the overflow from working.
would that happen even with a herbie style overflow ? because i’m going that way instead of the bean animal style
 

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Maybe I'm misunderstanding which overflow boxes you are looking at? Are you drilling the back of the tank (or it's already drilled)? Or, are you putting a retrofit overflow box that has a U-Tube or 2?
 
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hadri420

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Maybe I'm misunderstanding which overflow boxes you are looking at? Are you drilling the back of the tank (or it's already drilled)? Or, are you putting a retrofit overflow box that has a U-Tube or 2?
no sorry thoses are overflow boxes that attach to a drilled tank and then allow to plumb the box as you want, so you can choose between different styles of piping in the box itself,
so i chose the herbie style because how convenient and reliable i think it is !!


20260430_72908 a.m._BA5BC8A2-7B65-4073-A38B-207FDD6FCBB2.png


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tbrown

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In that case, I'd go with the higher flow weir box. If you go smaller it'll limit the flow from your return pump.
 
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hadri420

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In that case, I'd go with the higher flow weir box. If you go smaller it'll limit the flow from your return pump.
also i have to say that the sump is MEGA overkill (nearly the same volume as the display) 😅 so most likely it cannot happen but yeah anyway the modular marine is the one i really want to give a go it’s just that i’m little bit concerned about the bulkhead holding and allowing regular maintenance on the weir
but if you’d say this is okay then i’ll go for that
 

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You can increase flow through the sump by getting a larger return pump and adding a "T" fitting above the return pump. Put a gate Valve or ball valve coming off the side outlet of the "T" and plumb piping back to the inlet side of the sump. When dialing in the flow, start with the gate valve mostly open and slowly close it until the display tank level is about where you want it. Check it frequently for the next couple of hours to ensure the level stays steady and doesn't slowly rise.
 
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hadri420

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You can increase flow through the sump by getting a larger return pump and adding a "T" fitting above the return pump. Put a gate Valve or ball valve coming off the side outlet of the "T" and plumb piping back to the inlet side of the sump. When dialing in the flow, start with the gate valve mostly open and slowly close it until the display tank level is about where you want it. Check it frequently for the next couple of hours to ensure the level stays steady and doesn't slowly rise.
Yup
planned on having a manifold for the reactors and a return to dial in the flow in the sump
 

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