Shut Off Switch

[president89]

Hi,

Can anyone point me in the direction of how to build the shutoff circuit in this unit without using reefkeeper/neptune/apex, etc .

https://premiumaquatics.com/products/auto-waste-collector-shut-delay-timer.html

I basically want something that when the float switch engages, it cuts power - presumably to a pump, skimmer, etc. But not necessarily for a skimmate collector.

 

[Joey waid]

How versed are you with wiring and electrical circuits? It's not that hard. You just use a float type switch to break the power going to the outlet that's feeding the pump. Kinda like a switch turning on and off a light bulb.

 

[president89]

I am capable of following directions and I can solder. That's how I would describe my talent.

 

[Joey waid]

this is the simplest and easiest thing I could find. You just put a receptical where it says pump.

 

[president89]

What is the panel - the power source/Plug? Wouldn't that be a relay? Something tells me it's better to run low voltage through the float switch using a relay, so you don't have 120V going through that tiny float valve.

 

[Joey waid]

120 is every where on our tanks. The panel would be your current power strip or where everything is plugged into now. You can use a relay, but it's way more complicated.

 

[Joey waid]

The size of the switch has nothing to do with the voltage.

 

[Waterjockey]

If the float valve switch is rated for the voltage and current, you can just use it (assuming normally closed switch).
If not you need a s.p.s.t (Single Pole Single Throw) relay with a 12v coil (or whatever control voltage you are using) and contacts rated for the voltage/current your skimmer/pump whatever uses....and a project box to put it in.
Google spst relay for wiring digrams

 

[Rybren]

These instructions are for an ATO, but you could use it for your purposes...

http://www.aquahub.com/store/media/TopitOffKitPremiumInstruxCompDec07.pdf

 

[Simply__J]

I've been looking for detailed instructions on how to do this that wasn't a convoluted YT video for a while...thanks for the info! @Rybren

 

[Joey waid]

If the float valve switch is rated for the voltage and current, you can just use it (assuming normally closed switch).
If not you need a s.p.s.t (Single Pole Single Throw) relay with a 12v coil (or whatever control voltage you are using) and contacts rated for the voltage/current your skimmer/pump whatever uses....and a project box to put it in.
Google spst relay for wiring digrams

Then he has to get a 12 volt power supply. From what I have read so far that might be a little hard for him.

 

[ReeferBob]

this is the simplest and easiest thing I could find. You just put a receptical where it says pump.

This is NOT a good idea. You need as someone else mentioned some sort of relay that interacts with the float switch and not 120 volts directly. There may be a float switch out there that has this builtin. I think when you are done, you would have been better off just buying a reef keeper lite for $125 and a float and running it that way. I assume you are hesitant to go the RKL route simply for financial reasons?

You need this: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reefkeeper-lite-basic-digital-aquatics.html

And this: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/float-switch-kits-digital-aquatics.html

Or this: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reefkeeper-float-switch-bracket-kit-digital-aquatics.html

 

[Waterjockey]

Then he has to get a 12 volt power supply. From what I have read so far that might be a little hard for him.

That may be true. But if the OP is interested in learning about electrical controls and the like, this is a great beginners project to get your feet wet....with practical applications....I spent too many boring days with a bench, breadboard, and blinking lights .
He could get a wall wart for a one-of, or a doorbell transformer for more circuits off one supply after completing this one...etc.. ..it sounds like the OP is interested in building a project for more than one device.
As others have posted, there may be cheaper/easier routes, but not much learnings going that way.
I guess it all depends on the OP's motivation for wanting to build the project.

 

[president89]

I have two problems.

During water changes I forget to turn off my pump that takes water from mixing container to the sump.

I can use this for a skimmate shutoff so my container doesnt overflow.

It seems like I can buy an ato setup and switch the float switch so it shuts the pump off when engaged, rather than turn it on like an auto normally does.

I was not aware a rkl was that cheap. If I can find more practical uses I may go that route.

 

[Waterjockey]

I have two problems.

During water changes I forget to turn off my pump that takes water from mixing container to the sump.

I can use this for a skimmate shutoff so my container doesnt overflow.

It seems like I can buy an ato setup and switch the float switch so it shuts the pump off when engaged, rather than turn it on like an auto normally does.

I was not aware a rkl was that cheap. If I can find more practical uses I may go that route.

Ok. If you are just looking for the easiest way, then you've found your answer for the skimmate locker.
For forgetting to turn your pump off, you could simply get a 120v bathroom fan timer switch....the kind you spin the knob to 10, 20, 30 min etc.

That being said, by time you buy an ato just for the control, and bathroom timers, etc...there will always be something else, and as you mentioned....it would probably be cheaper and more practical in the long run to just get an aquarium controller that will handle any automation/failsafe stuff you want to do in the near and long run

 

[ReeferBob]

I have two problems.

During water changes I forget to turn off my pump that takes water from mixing container to the sump.

I can use this for a skimmate shutoff so my container doesnt overflow.

It seems like I can buy an ato setup and switch the float switch so it shuts the pump off when engaged, rather than turn it on like an auto normally does.

I was not aware a rkl was that cheap. If I can find more practical uses I may go that route.

In addition to the float capability, out of the box it is also a light controller and temp/heater controller as well as a wave controller/maker and pH monitoring (with optional pH probe). It comes with 4 outlets.

 

[beaslbob]

What is the panel - the power source/Plug? Wouldn't that be a relay? Something tells me it's better to run low voltage through the float switch using a relay, so you don't have 120V going through that tiny float valve.

+1

5 volts dc (or 12 or 40 for that matter) is safe. ac at any voltage can kill especially 120 or 240.

Make sure an voltage in and around the tank is DC.

 

[beaslbob]

on further thought why do you need a shutoff switch?

sumps can be adjusted with no valves or shutoffs to not flood.

Automatic top offs can be drippers.

so why do you need a shutoff?

 

[Joey waid]

+1

5 volts dc (or 12 or 40 for that matter) is safe. ac at any voltage can kill especially 120 or 240.

Make sure an voltage in and around the tank is DC.

So your saying that my heaters, pumps and power heads that are all 120 volts I should get rid of?

 

[Joey waid]

+1

5 volts dc (or 12 or 40 for that matter) is safe. ac at any voltage can kill especially 120 or 240.

Make sure an voltage in and around the tank is DC.

5 volts dc is usually a controll voltage. 40 volts dc is almost in heard of. 12 volts ac/dc and 24 volts dc is most common.