Silent Lights Poll

Which type of fanless led lights would you pick for a 120 gallon 4' x 2' x 2' reef tank?

  • ATI Stratton Pro 102 (2 of them)

    Votes: 36 27.1%
  • GHL Mitras 3 Light Bars (3 or 4 of them)

    Votes: 6 4.5%
  • Orphek OR3

    Votes: 29 21.8%
  • PhillipsCoral Care 2

    Votes: 17 12.8%
  • Quanta Helix Bar

    Votes: 24 18.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 21 15.8%

  • Total voters
    133

oreo54

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I’m kinda interested in these quanta bars shame the OG pop is out of stock. They are individually controllable? Cost for 2 just to mess with would run the same cost as Osix controller.

In 48”, same with meso in 48”
Driver is 0-10v, 10v pwm, or via potentiometer (included I guess)
so yea can be dimmed individually .. either manually or by an appropriate controller.
 

oreo54

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I’m kinda interested in these quanta bars shame the OG pop is out of stock. They are individually controllable? Cost for 2 just to mess with would run the same cost as Osix controller.

In 48”, same with meso in 48”
The "new" 47" and 71" are greyed out for the Meso blue.
Only 71" is not available for the reef crest.

"Old" Quanta pro meso blue.. only 3' available
Old Reef crest.. 3' & 6' left
 

Reign1

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unpopular opinion I run an Orphek Atlantik Icon and although it has a fan it is near dead silent. The powerheads and overflow drain can be heard I do not hear the fan from the ICON. For reference tank is in a small study with tile floor so room amplifies any sound.
my $.02
BTW I would go with orphek bars (I am thinking of adding 1-2 for additional coverage.
 
OP
OP
Randy Holmes-Farley

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Consider Ocean Blue and Coral Pop. That will give you the UV you were after and you'll get plenty of white.

Considering it as one option, yes. Not sure it gives what I want without lowering the blue, but it could get there. The 100% output claims to be 12,000k, which is too high, but dialing it back would work. :)

The sky white claims 6600k, but I’m not a fan of the red bump and would have to dial it back. Combined with the coral pop, the blue in the 460 range would also likely be excessive, but could be dialed back.
 

VintageReefer

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I do. Sanjay does.

Consider that when spectrums are shown with all channels at 100%, that's the best they can do. I have data for days.
well. That sounds like an inefficient use of watts

I’ll revise my statement. Most people are not setting channels 1-6 at 75% or whatever number / percent across the board and calling it a night.

The spectral graphs show you the full capability of the light with all channels maxed out but people are customizing based on coral needs and aesthetics / personal preference.
 

telegraham

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well. That sounds like an inefficient use of watts

I’ll revise my statement. Most people are not setting channels 1-6 at 75% or whatever number / percent across the board and calling it a night.

The spectral graphs show you the full capability of the light with all channels maxed out but people are customizing based on coral needs and aesthetics / personal preference.
You mention inefficient use of watts and aesthetics in the same comment. If G5/6 Radion Blue users have their sliders matching (AB+), is that inefficient? If my Mitras LX and ReeFi sliders match, and it creates the look I want at their set intensity, that’s inefficient or ok based on aesthetics?

You like your Evergrows. I get it, but I’ll simplify my Meridian point…it’s expensive, not yet available, and given data shared by the manufacturer, lacks spectrum where I’d expect to see spectrum. If I were to buy one, I wouldn’t get anything better than I already have.

My opinion is based on data and excludes emotional attachment to a brand.
 

VintageReefer

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You mention inefficient use of watts and aesthetics in the same comment. If G5/6 Radion Blue users have their sliders matching (AB+), is that inefficient? If my Mitras LX and ReeFi sliders match, and it creates the look I want at their set intensity, that’s inefficient or ok based on aesthetics?

You like your Evergrows. I get it, but I’ll simplify my Meridian point…it’s expensive, not yet available, and given data shared by the manufacturer, lacks spectrum where I’d expect to see spectrum. If I were to buy one, I wouldn’t get anything better than I already have.

My opinion is based on data and excludes emotional attachment to a brand.
I have no emotional attachment. My next lights for my new build won’t be RB. You seem to be the one with some negative emotional attachment. I was the one you called out and you had to voice your opinion. Perhaps your emotion is negative, and you feel let down by a lack of spectrum originality.

I agree the Meridian is expensive. But not the most expensive option out there.
OP wants a silent light. We are all free to give suggestions. Everyone has pros and cons and a lot of the lights suggested have not been cheap options. Photon. Meridian. Both valid options that can light a tank well and are silent.

Not everyone runs their lights like Sanjay. Research that. You’ll find the vast majority of people here do not attempt to replicate it.

Some do though. I get it. Adam at battle corals runs photons and meridians over all his frag tanks. All channels 100% and ceiling mounted high. He’s very happy with their performance. He grows some of the best sps on the market. Go tell him how his lights are insufficient.
 

KStatefan

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I’m kinda interested in these quanta bars shame the OG pop is out of stock. They are individually controllable? Cost for 2 just to mess with would run the same cost as Osix controller.

In 48”, same with meso in 48”

The OG pop is the "version 1" of the lights and if are sold out I assume will not be available in the future. Those lights are not controllable just on/off. The new Helix bars you can dim them with the included rheostat or hook them up to a 0-10 volt controller.
 

spsick

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Jeez Randy you really opened a can of worms here!

To those suggesting Meridians, they have been on preorder for almost a year and still nothing, and no info on spectrum and diodes. Where are these things?
 

areefer01

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Jeez Randy you really opened a can of worms here!

Na, just normal hobby related brand loyalty and options. Nothing wrong with that. The difficulty I find is taking benchmark tests done by hobbyist and translating that to something useful. Some of it is a no brainer like PAR and spread. Once we start talking about spectrum, UV, and other things it gets a bit dicey.

There are some articles out there that have results from oceanic conditions talking about this and photo inhibition among other things. Like above the hobbyist has to see what is, and is not, applicable. One thing I do not do is try and mimic a hobbyist display. I don't really care what Bob or Sally runs as that is unique to their installation and use case and it may, or may not, be applicable to mine.
 

VintageReefer

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Well, not all.. I been talking with him these last few weeks. He still runs iwasakis and t5 also.
All his frag tanks. He runs halide And t5 also over his “grow out” tanks that house many of the parent colonies. Anything that gets fragged to sell, then gets moved to large frag tanks lit by photons or meridians
 

VintageReefer

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Jeez Randy you really opened a can of worms here!

To those suggesting Meridians, they have been on preorder for almost a year and still nothing, and no info on spectrum and diodes. Where are these things?
Detroit reef club has some in stock, I saw another vendor claiming to have them. I think they started shipping in small batches and all sources should have them by December
 

Big E

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For the spectrum you're looking for I'd look into horticultural LED setups. You can save a lot of cash and they are controllable on many of the nicer ones.

There are board and bar type systems.
 

Reefering1

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All his frag tanks. He runs halide And t5 also over his “grow out” tanks that house many of the parent colonies. Anything that gets fragged to sell, then gets moved to large frag tanks lit by photons or meridians
Sure, except the frags that are sold as grown under t5/ halide. 400w sakis, He explicitly specified. And I believe him because his frags don't need any acclimation to mh. Out the bag and directly under the lamp and doesn't skip a beat, that doesn't happen with acropora that was growing and happy under led. They are not fresh cut frags either. When was the last time you put led frags directly under a halide the day you received it? All of this is irrelevant to the topic though and I'm not sure why you think you can't be mistaken about one word, " all". :thinking-face:
 

VintageReefer

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Sure, except the frags that are sold as grown under t5/ halide. 400w sakis, He explicitly specified. And I believe him because his frags don't need any acclimation to mh. Out the bag and directly under the lamp and doesn't skip a beat, that doesn't happen with acropora that was growing and happy under led. They are not fresh cut frags either. When was the last time you put led frags directly under a halide the day you received it? All of this is irrelevant to the topic though and I'm not sure why you think you can't be mistaken about one word, " all". :thinking-face:
Because it’s what he told me

“I do have lots of mothers under halides still. And they look great, and grow great. No complaints whatsoever. Well maybe the heat lol. But not in the winter…

Anyway. I don’t have nearly as many colonies or frags under T5 anymore, but 95% of my frag inventory are under LEDs. Many of them for up to nine months to a year easily before they go out. ”

The frags that aren’t under led, are possibly special request.

So yea I said “all” but in reality it’s 95% of his frags are under photon/meridian led while they recover from fragging and get put on the website and await purchase and shipping.

The parent colony is grown / kept under halide. He frags them and moves them to led systems. Not sure why you are nitpicking here…you can put them under halide on day 1 or led on day 1. They were grown under halide and moved to led for months to heal and grow out prior to shipping

My statement is true. His frag tanks are photon / Meridian. The halide tanks are colony tanks and are separate
 

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