Simon’s (Mostly Conceptual) 1,600 Build

[ca1ore]

Mags are quite enduring if you can get them past initial shipping/acclimation. It’s a big if, though antibiotic protocols have made the impossible a bit more possible. I’ve kept them for along time. Lost a couple to bacterial infections and one to a power head; but most just grow and eventually require a new home. Had one that reached 24”; ask @albano how large it is now since he has it.

 

[AlexG]

I’ve never had a build last more than 4 years. Sometimes the result of a house move, but usually due to boredom and the itch to upgrade. Reef tank is like a closet - crap just expands to fill the available space. I’ve got a one year old 450, and it’s eseentially full. If the past is any guage for the future, it’s got about another 3 years to go. Might as well start planning and collecting for the next one. I already know it will be huge - nominally 14’ x 6’ x 36”, so 1,600 gallons. Built a plywood tank many years ago, and itching to do one again. I’ll show a few diagrams and thoughts about potential equipment in subsequent posts. I’m a veteran DiYer, so looking to design and build rather than buy where possible.

This will be a glacial gestation, thus ‘conceptual’ in the title. To be continued .....

I really like this idea. I think with the right plywood construction method that 14’ x 6’ x 36” can be done. I think moving to anything taller than 36" will be where you might run into issues. I did a lot of reading on plywood tanks before I started the work on mine and one thing that I read about happening several times was tanks over 36" tall made out of plywood have a higher rate of failure. I think the right construction method could overcome this problem. I did have bowing take place with my 720 gallon plywood tank on its initial fill so I added external bracing which has worked out well. I also think your idea for using plywood beams could work out well for external bracing. I made and interlocking pattern of 2x4s to prevent twisting for my tanks external bracing. The only issue that arises with external bracing is access to plumbing. Looking at your design diagram the only question I have is would you be drilling holes in the bottom of the tank for the surge or closed loop plumbing?

 

[ca1ore]

I’m a charter member of overbuilders annonymous, so at whatever point thinking turns to actual building I will brace the $&#@ out of it. I kind of like the idea of 42” by buildings some cement bases that look like old, worn coral heads. Glass would be an issue though at that height.

 

[drstardust]

Anemone island, eh? I can't say I've had luck with that...

Me: Guys, this is your island

Anemones: Screw you, we're going wherever we want

 

[albano]

Had one that reached 24”; ask @albano how large it is now since he has it.

It has grown, but hard to tell how much... ca1ore trained him well! In my old 450g tank he stayed put, in my new 500g I had to ‘reposition’ him twice in the first week, now he hasn’t moved since June.

 

[AlexG]

I’m a charter member of overbuilders annonymous, so at whatever point thinking turns to actual building I will brace the $&#@ out of it. I kind of like the idea of 42” by buildings some cement bases that look like old, worn coral heads. Glass would be an issue though at that height.

Tempered 3/4" glass is good up to a 48" tall aquariums. Custom aquariums uses 3/4" tempered on their 48" tall monster glass tanks.

 

[ca1ore]

Yeah, I saw a video of their 2,000 gallon build. I must confess that tempered glass makes me a bit nervous. I always imagine a main panel dissolving into a thousand small bits and all that water firing out in one massive burst.

 

[ca1ore]

It has grown, but hard to tell how much... ca1ore trained him well! In my old 450g tank he stayed put, in my new 500g I had to ‘reposition’ him twice in the first week, now he hasn’t moved since June.

Very nice A!

 

[Thatguy96]

I’ve never had a build last more than 4 years. Sometimes the result of a house move, but usually due to boredom and the itch to upgrade. Reef tank is like a closet - crap just expands to fill the available space. I’ve got a one year old 450, and it’s eseentially full. If the past is any guage for the future, it’s got about another 3 years to go. Might as well start planning and collecting for the next one. I already know it will be huge - nominally 14’ x 6’ x 36”, so 1,600 gallons. Built a plywood tank many years ago, and itching to do one again. I’ll show a few diagrams and thoughts about potential equipment in subsequent posts. I’m a veteran DiYer, so looking to design and build rather than buy where possible.

This will be a glacial gestation, thus ‘conceptual’ in the title. To be continued .....

Simon if you need any help with this, I’m there!!! Following along to this awesome future build!

 

[ca1ore]

Appreciate that. For now it’s musing, conceptualizing, maybe coming up with new approaches and even some accessory building. I’m thinking about overflows for very large tanks. Got an idea to post here in a few weeks.

I’m also thinking about how to provide adequate flow and surge in a 1.5-2 K gallon tank .... without spending $10K on a pair of hydrowizards or needing a messy surge tank akin to a Carlson.

 

[dantimdad]

Something tells me that the only way to avoid the hydrowizards is multiple closed loop systems driven by VSDs.

There was a thread on R2R where a guy built his own VSD on a(I think) 480 to provide a ridiculous amount of variable flow. Now, 3 or 4 of those on your concept tank and you'd be in business.

 

[ca1ore]

I’m inclined to agree; plus the hydrowizard ECM 75 has an enormous in tank profile. U... u.... u..... ugly.

 

[User1]

@ca1ore I just stumbled upon this. Sounds exciting. First thing that hit me though was great - more shortages on Damsels. We all better buy now before you implement this plan of yours Teasing aside. I've read various threads about the pressure generated on the side walls when using surge devices regardless of type. Something of this size I would probably look at a closed system using ocean motion or similar devices to alternate flow. Biggest challenge is aquascape and tank maturity I would think.

I like random flow but we know there is a high and low tide and that typically has a pattern associated with it. I'd probably try and design a certain biotype then try to aquascape and plumb around that. The only drawback is that it would be set and you couldn't really change things up once it is implemented. Say opposed to power heads, etc.

 

[biecacka]

Simon, I have often wondered about using little dry boxes in massive tanks to attach the MP pumps too. Something accessible but still keeping the dry side dry....


Corey

 

[ca1ore]

@ca1ore Something of this size I would probably look at a closed system using ocean motion or similar devices to alternate flow.

The 'challenge' is to get adequate flow without using massive energy hog pumps. There doesn't yet seem to be a reliable, external use, cost-sensible DC flow pump that does more than 3,000 gph. Perhaps there will be a Vectra XL1 eventually.

 

[User1]

The 'challenge' is to get adequate flow without using massive energy hog pumps. There doesn't yet seem to be a reliable, external use, cost-sensible DC flow pump that does more than 3,000 gph. Perhaps there will be a Vectra XL1 eventually.

Well, there is you just have to remove "cost-sensible" from your requirement list. Abyzz would be the pump to use although I've personally never used them. The whole cost-sensible thing is key for me with two in college. That is why I went the route of dry Pukani instead of TBS like I originally planned. Hind sight being 20/20 I would probably pinch a few more pennies and buy what I originally intended rather than using the dry.

Then again with tanks of this magnitude cost of things such as pumps tend to go up or overall price due to size. I think you mentioned the over engineer aspect so maybe if you do go with a surge type device it is a moot point.

 

[ca1ore]

Flow will be the thing that requires the most thought. I’m less than thrilled at the idea of going back to surge tanks. They’re messy and screw with the overflow and ATO. Just need somebody to make a variable flow vectra/COR style pump that does 5,000 GPH. Based on what's available today, I'd think something like the following:

1. Main return pump - Dolphin or Reeflo - something like 4,300 GPH (2-3X). Probably split between firing down behind the main reef area and broadcast into the tank.
2. Closed loop - thinking a trio of Vectra L1 (or maybe Vectra XL1), something like 9,000 GPH at peak. Perhaps returning through educator/velocity nozzles at varying speeds.
3. Powerheads - six pack of Vortech MP60 (45,000 GPH); trio of WAV (12,000 GPH)

 

[ca1ore]

Also exploring the practicality of using solar dome/solar tubes as part of the lighting. Cannot do that on my current tank, or in my current home, because there's too much house on top of the tank and the tubes would be both too long and have to go up through the middle of my son's room. Probably a non-starter. I see some folks using these in sunnier/southern locales, I wonder if they are practical in northern, wooded places like CT?

I will definitely move to using a zone off my house ehating for tank warmth; cooling ….. we shall see. My current 3/4 HP is more chiller than I need for 700 total system gallons, but probably not for 2,000 total system gallons.

 

[User1]

Search on solar production by hour by state or sun hours per day by zip code and you will find many calculators. Two ways to look at it when looking at North vs. South, etc. We have solar and live in Northern California. January are the lower production months ranging from a low 3 hours for peak sun. June through September are the highest pushing 7 hours. Now compare that to say someone in Arizona who has a lot more production hours, right? But then I need to factor in the higher electricity cost for California and that 3 hours may not be so bad after all. Or if I was to average the year out and say it is 6 hours of production. May not be so bad after all due to the energy saving.

There are a few tanks that I've seen using the solar tubes. If the tank is in a location that has a straight shot through the ceiling and roof you are set. But like you said you don't so probably won't work in your current house or tank location. Maybe it is time to add a Sun Room One lad on this forum, O2manyfish has a great looking tank that he keeps outdoors in Southern California. So the natural sun has a lot of perks if you can pull it off. WE just downsized our home and in a single story now. I could probably get away with installing solar tubes and supplement with my DIY LED's. Maybe have to do that - then again maybe if I upgrade since I have other projects I'm behind on...

 

[biecacka]

Simon, let me see if I can find the thread but I remember a guy putting mp20’s on the bottom of his tank facing upwards....I also recall a guy having dry boxes so to speak built into the bottom of his tank to place the pumps there.
Or you could run tunze pumps and lengthen the cords.
Closed loop

Corey