Slow / Fast Tissue Necrosis help
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subnet88
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Well, all of the tissue sloughed off of that coral in the past 24 hours.
I sent off a sample to Triton yesterday, so it should be 3 weeks away.
I put anther coral in at 465 PAR. I'll be taking a picture of it daily to see its progression. It comes from a T5 system, near water level, but I have no clue what PAR it was under before.
I sent off a sample to Triton yesterday, so it should be 3 weeks away.
I put anther coral in at 465 PAR. I'll be taking a picture of it daily to see its progression. It comes from a T5 system, near water level, but I have no clue what PAR it was under before.
Eric23
Active Member
I was having similar problems keeping sps. Everything I put in the tank would die after a few weeks but mine would start loosing skin at the tips, get brown algae, then eventually loose all it's skin and die. My parameters looked good and my par looked good on the seneye just like yours does. I eventually got frustrated and had someone look at my tank that really knows what they're doing with sps and they had me dial my LED's way down below what I thought was enough light and raise my nitrate up over what I thought was healthy for acros and so far my coral are doing a lot better. It's only been a few days but I'm seeing a lot of improvement.
Here you can kind of see the progress of a frag dying over a few weeks. During this time my levels were as follows
Temp 77.5
Salinity 1.025
pH 8.2
Nitrate 5ppm
Mag 1400
Ca 450
Alk 8.4
Po4 0.037
Par at coral base 300
Here you can kind of see the progress of a frag dying over a few weeks. During this time my levels were as follows
Temp 77.5
Salinity 1.025
pH 8.2
Nitrate 5ppm
Mag 1400
Ca 450
Alk 8.4
Po4 0.037
Par at coral base 300
Eric23
Active Member
I've let my nitrate come up to 10, I'm letting my phos rise slowly to a target of .06 and I've lowered my par down a lot. I went from having my kessil lights peak at 75% for 4 hours to 30% for 4 hours and having my T5's on for 6. The par at the base of where my sticks are is now at around 200 using the seneye which jumps around alot so I'm not sure how accurate it is. I'm seeing a lot of improvement. That green and purple tip acro was starting to loose color at the base but after I lowered the intensity of my lights has almost fully recovered over a few days and I'm not seeing any tips with algae or any bleaching on any of the other frags yetI was having similar problems keeping sps. Everything I put in the tank would die after a few weeks but mine would start loosing skin at the tips, get brown algae, then eventually loose all it's skin and die. My parameters looked good and my par looked good on the seneye just like yours does. I eventually got frustrated and had someone look at my tank that really knows what they're doing with sps and they had me dial my LED's way down below what I thought was enough light and raise my nitrate up over what I thought was healthy for acros and so far my coral are doing a lot better. It's only been a few days but I'm seeing a lot of improvement.
Here you can kind of see the progress of a frag dying over a few weeks. During this time my levels were as follows
Temp 77.5
Salinity 1.025
pH 8.2
Nitrate 5ppm
Mag 1400
Ca 450
Alk 8.4
Po4 0.037
Par at coral base 300
OP
OP
subnet88
Community Member
24 hours laterPolyp extension looks less than yesterday, and theres an area at the top that looks whiter. Thoughts? #reefsquad
More PE again. The top still has no problem Ave is looking bleached
OP
OP
subnet88
Community Member
Well, all of the tissue sloughed off of that coral in the past 24 hours.
I sent off a sample to Triton yesterday, so it should be 3 weeks away.
I put anther coral in at 465 PAR. I'll be taking a picture of it daily to see its progression. It comes from a T5 system, near water level, but I have no clue what PAR it was under before.
24 hours later
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subnet88
Community Member
Next24 hours later
OP
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subnet88
Community Member
Triton results came back
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/63011/
@Diesel @saltyfilmfolks Thoughts?
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/63011/
@Diesel @saltyfilmfolks Thoughts?
I think the tin is probaly bad. Not sure I’ve ever seen a test with La flagged.
OP
OP
subnet88
Community Member
Could the Tin be from Aquaforest reef salt? https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...en-with-water-changes-before-1st-test.350255/ seems to have the same level with the same salt.
Would like to know your ALK as triton don't test for that.
Your CAL and MAG are a little on the high side but it depends on where your ALK sits.
Keep eye on K (potassium)
And as Salty already mentioned your La (lead) are flagged high.
I would use a detox from triton to get that removed or try to find the source, maybe a pump or pencil filling.
Every month a three day detox will keep it low but if you don't find the source you have to keep doing this till it will stop leaching in your water.
Your lithium is elevated, and that is probably from the salt mix. A great many people have elevated lithium, and I’ve seen some fresh artificial salt water samples that also had it. It is probably an impurity in one of the main ingredients of a salt mix, but it can also come from calcium and alkalinity additives, such as calcium chloride. At this level it does not concern me. It’s biological properties (such as a medication in people) seem to happen at much higher levels, and in many ways it is chemically similar to sodium that is present at 30,000 times higher concentration.
Your CAL and MAG are a little on the high side but it depends on where your ALK sits.
Keep eye on K (potassium)
And as Salty already mentioned your La (lead) are flagged high.
I would use a detox from triton to get that removed or try to find the source, maybe a pump or pencil filling.
Every month a three day detox will keep it low but if you don't find the source you have to keep doing this till it will stop leaching in your water.
Your lithium is elevated, and that is probably from the salt mix. A great many people have elevated lithium, and I’ve seen some fresh artificial salt water samples that also had it. It is probably an impurity in one of the main ingredients of a salt mix, but it can also come from calcium and alkalinity additives, such as calcium chloride. At this level it does not concern me. It’s biological properties (such as a medication in people) seem to happen at much higher levels, and in many ways it is chemically similar to sodium that is present at 30,000 times higher concentration.
OP
OP
subnet88
Community Member
Alk is 8.3 per Salifert and KHG Calcium and magnesium are both high, but seem to be in-line with the salt mix.
La is Lanthanum and I know it comes from a previous fight with high phosphate and using a phosphate binder
Triton says that Detox wont remove Tin, neither with metasorb or cuprisorb. I would expect to see other metals if it was a magnet., or no?
I think water changes is the only way to take it out.
I don't think you can draw any conclusions from the link where the guy did 60% water change & had that tin reading - it could have been 60% higher than that level to start with.(as much as i wouldn't trust that salt)
Tin's has also been known to come from newer piping
I think the tin is where your problem is
I don't think you can draw any conclusions from the link where the guy did 60% water change & had that tin reading - it could have been 60% higher than that level to start with.(as much as i wouldn't trust that salt)
Tin's has also been known to come from newer piping
I think the tin is where your problem is
Lol, no coffee at all yet.
Had a out patient surgery and try to figure out what day it is as well :(
Correct, the high levels tin we see is from the pvc pipes.
@Randy Holmes-Farley had a article about this but he mentioned I believe it was never something to be worried about
yep its but 1 possibility
OP no doubt you already searched tin threads - (we really need to get a icp metals catalogue thread going)
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-cause-of-my-sps-deaths.288578/#post-3511397
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/triton-test-results.193311/#post-2214115
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-tank-and-tin.350055/
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/very-elevated-tin-levels.337574/
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OP
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subnet88
Community Member
I found Rust! Not sure if I should be happy or sad about that. the screws holding together the Jaebo return pump I WAS using for feeding my skimmer have rusted quite badly. I presume this may have cause most of my issues. I'll be doing a bunch of water changes and run TLF MetaSorb, then Ill do another Triton test and report back.
Skimmer is on an old AC pump now
Skimmer is on an old AC pump now
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